Sounds like you might be tripping the BMS current limit during controller precharge. Maybe try adding a pre-charge wire through a resistor?
72 Volt Electra Townie Rocketship
- Thread starter Bone
- Start date
Is that what this is? Check attachments for Picts. It doesn’t matter if this is installed or not. Same results. It says GRIN tech. on it. I tried to contact them about controller replacement but haven’t heard anything back from them and it has been around 4 days.When it comes to e-bike electronics, my experience is close to next to none, but I did used to race R/C cars 30 years ago and had electronic speed controls back then. My cars though were only 7.2 volts instead of 72 volts.
Attachments
lnanek
10 kW
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2022
- Messages
- 722
Looks like a shunt (often used for voltage measurement) with pass through throttle and speed wires:
ebikes.ca
You'd use it to connect a Grin CycleAnalyst display to a third party, non-Grin controller.
1mOhm Cycle Analyst Stand Alone Shunt
Precision 1mOhm Stand Alone Shunt with Pigtail Leads and 6-Pin CA-DP Plug. Includes Throttle Pass-Thru
ebikes.ca
You'd use it to connect a Grin CycleAnalyst display to a third party, non-Grin controller.
Best results so far: When the charger is hooked up to the battery and everything is plugged into the eBike, I get the LED power indicator on the controller to be on, the Cycle Analyst to be on, and the motor now studders instead of glitches. It moves the wheel about 6 inches instead of a half of an inch when it was glitching before and it does not cause the BMS or controller to shut everything down like it did before. Now when I put on max throttle, I get the studders on the wheel with nothing shutting down when the charger is connected to the battery. But once when the charger is not connected to the battery, when I apply throttle and get the glitches and studders the system shuts down. Any ideas of what might be happening?
It sounds like you're not providing the controller with appropriate power. The reason could be the BMS which is either malfunctioning or preventing destruction because of a fault elsewhere that's causing a disproportionate load. Check the voltage on the power input to the controller when that happens. Ideally test with another battery. If it works with another battery then you need to dig down what's happening with yours; a smart bms would just tell you, with an uncommunicative one you might have to replace it. Is the battery fully charged?
Yes. The battery is fully charged. It shows 71.3volts on the Cycle Analyst. I have another battery but it is only 48 volts. I plugged it in. The Cycle Analyst says it is 53.6 volts. With the 48 volt battery I do not get shut down when advancing the throttle and the charger does not have to be connected to it. The wheel still does not turn like it should. What does this signify or indicate? (Do I need to program the Cycle Analyst) is why the wheel is not turning? Thanks,
Chalo
100 TW
That's the capacitors in the controller charging up. It sucks but it's normal.
I just replaced the Anderson 45A Powerpoles on my honey's controller and one of her batteries, because she had a sudden inconsistent power failure and I discovered that the negative lead terminals were burned and crusty. If your Andersons look black or cruddy, or the plug housings seem a lil melty or beat up, replace them.
Did. I get around 71 volts when I put a multimeter on the board where the batteries input wires connect to it. The voltage stays the same when the charger is connected to the battery and the throttle is increased. When the charger is not connected to the battery I get around 71 volts again, but when the throttle is applied the voltage gradually goes to zero. The controllers board looks clean and there is no corrosion inside, so I don't believe it got stuck out in the rain. I tried to test the 12 MOSFETS in the controller, but I'm not really sure how to do.
lnanek
10 kW
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2022
- Messages
- 722
Reading voltage that quickly disappears after the BMS, at the controller power input, generally means the BMS is blocking discharge. E.g. if it detects unbalanced voltage between p-group's, too much discharge current, low p-group voltage, etc.. it's not a real voltage. Just leakage through the MOSFETs.
Voltage that quickly disappears on the battery before the BMS would be lack of capacity. E.g. if a p-group is dead and doesn't hold much charge.
Voltage that quickly disappears on the battery before the BMS would be lack of capacity. E.g. if a p-group is dead and doesn't hold much charge.
In case of the 71v (what's that, 17s?) battery, it's not giving power to the controller when it needs it. If the controller has a short that could be causing an over current, which subsequently activates the BMS protection. If the controller is good, then the BMS is likely faulty.
On the other battery if it doesn't turn off at full throttle, that likely means the second scenario is more likely. The fact that the motor doesn't turn would be caused by the wrong controller configuration/wrong phase wires assignment or motor positioning failure.
By connecting the other battery (48Volts) to the system and having the same results as the 72 volt battery with the charger connected to it, signify that the problem has been isolated to the controller? It is just that the 72 volt battery may have a more sensitive BMS than the 48 volt battery?
I have tried to contact around 3 or 4 vendors to try and find a replacement controller for the Crystalyte 7240F Controller but have only been contacted back by 1 and it has been quite some time since I have reached out to them. The 1 vendor that got back to me said he only had 1 controller left and it was an 18 FET Crystalyte Controller. The problem is, he said he would only accept PayPal "GIft" (Friends and Family) or Zelle. These two methods are used by scammers because there is no buyer protection going this route.
Is there anything inside the controller that I could test that would tell me why the motor glitches and studders when the throttle is applied?
I have tried to contact around 3 or 4 vendors to try and find a replacement controller for the Crystalyte 7240F Controller but have only been contacted back by 1 and it has been quite some time since I have reached out to them. The 1 vendor that got back to me said he only had 1 controller left and it was an 18 FET Crystalyte Controller. The problem is, he said he would only accept PayPal "GIft" (Friends and Family) or Zelle. These two methods are used by scammers because there is no buyer protection going this route.
Is there anything inside the controller that I could test that would tell me why the motor glitches and studders when the throttle is applied?
Kinda stuck and at a standstill. Anyone able to help? I'm trying to test the MOSFETS in the controller. Not sure if I'm doing this correctly. Am I supposed to have the controller plugged in and the power on when trying to test them? The YouTube video I have been watching doesn't say so. Also the video says the parameters of the MOSFET test should fall within 0.56. What should I have my multimeter set at? 2M or 2k. The readings I have been getting have been around 0.80 on the MOSFETS. Am I doing this correctly? Thanks,
There's no reason to be testing the transistors if the BMS is cutting power. Find out if you're drawing too much and whether the battery is fine first.
