96v nimh battery build

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Jan 5, 2008
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374
I made a new battery today. I bought 12 7.2v nimh. I bought 4 3-stick chargers. So I have 72 nimh cells in series. No bms needed. I have a 409 rear hubmotor brushless with 100v 20a controller. My parts are 5 yrs old, my bike, 8 yrs old. I finally got to where I wanted to be...My bike go nearly 40mph now I think. My battery weigh only 10lb, measure 10"x 3" x 4". Perfect fit! Here is pic of my bike with 72vlifepo4. The 86.4v nimh battery is less than the size of one of my pings. Not nearly as much range, but very powerful and fast. I hit the throttle in the front yard and the thing wheelied right over! I'm just thankful that 96.5v didn't blow my controller.
 
Sounds great. best ive done is 72v, would love to bring that up into the 90's. How many AH?
 
electricridefl said:
I'm just thankful that 96.5v didn't blow my controller.

Give it time... :twisted: 96.5V on a 100V controller does not leave any headroom for inductive switching spikes, gravity tides, moon phase modulation, etc to work its evil ways.
 
My battery is 3.8ah, 10c. I rode for 3 miles today. It didn't go dead. In fact, I did not even use over half throttle until I went out on the highway. This thing runs so good and so powerful and very light. My battery mount works beautifully. i was so happy after my ride that I went and bought a camera. Here are some pics. I think I will recolor to white.

The pic of the batteries is 15 cells of ping and my previous 48v nimh made from cheap chinese cells that are labeled 6.8ah. Well, the 3.8ah is way better than the 6.8ah.

Oh well, the pics must be resized first...
 
I've been running the nimh sub c cells for this part of week now, to work and back, 3 miles each way. My motor get 5mph for every 12 volts. This thing is fast...I got my batteries figured out now. And my charging. I mean I know the nature of nimh. heat=loss of capacity. There is a direct relationship here. I mean I.ve been conducting tests everyday with these batteries. I am pushing their limits of performance. Now when ever I connect my battery to my bike and turn it on, my voltage is likely to always be over 100v. This morning, it was at 101v. Thats the way it has to be for proper performance of my battery.
So some tests I did involved charging, measuring temperature of batteries. I have 4 quadrants of batteries, 18 cells per quadrant, so I will refer to the voltage and charging for one group of 18 cells. These are labeled as 3800mah, 10c rate. I've been charging all lately with 1.5amp charge setting, as I only have 3 chargers for 4 batteries, so I usually use two at a time. One charger may shut off after an hour or hour an half. One may run 2hrs and get battery really hot. I played musical chargers last night, starting with the weakest cells, 22.3v, 22.6v, and then switching the chargers to the stronger packs (23.1v)when the light turn green. I was having a hard time getting my 4 quadrants to be equal after an equal dischsrge, so the problem must be related to the chargers. Well it is not really the chargers. It is the nature of the nimh beast. I knew that the batteries are charged when they get hot. But how hot? I tried different approaches, with no big dicernerable difference in capacity. So why were my packs differing voltages in the above example? Because I did a test to confirm my hunch, and this test gives monumental result related to the performance of this battery.
On a couple trips previously, I would have one bank (of 23v battery) lose voltage to 22.3v, at the point I could feel a hiccup in voltage. Yet another pack voltage would be at 22.6v-which is the normal final voltage of the pack(s) after a full charge in the night before, or in the morning. But then I did test of charging right before use, when battery is nice and cool. I charge 2 banks for 15minute boost charge, but not the other 2 banks. Each and every time I did this, The final voltage of the boosted packs is always 23.1. And also, the battery need much less recharge. I'm talking between a half to a whole ah extra capacity just by a 15min right before use charge. Or could be longer, depending on how much the battery charge initially (heat wise). So today, at work, I cannot monitor my charging, but my coworker switched my chargers to the other packs when lights turned green. None got too overly hot. Then I instructed him to plug back in and charge each side for 15mins right before I got back and go home. So now today, my quadrants were all equal after ride home, at 23-23.1v, and I had no loss of power. Of course I did lose nearly 5mph of speed be end of trip(normal), but I had more capacity left. Man my bike runs good. I don't even hit full throttle until two thirds of my trip. So after boost charge, my voltage is around 25.2v or so for each quarter. I have been careful not to whack the throttle wide open at 100v. So far, so good...very good. It is a nice battery for 3 miles trip and under. Of course it would likely go a bit further is I went slower...so hard to do...
Also , for the first time since I made my bike 5 years ago, now I remove the battery and bring inside to charge.
I plan to connect 4 chargers and a timer that will turn the charger back on at the appropiate time for top off capacity automatic. I don't have to break my battery connections to charge. I leave them all connected in series. No problems there. Otherwise it would be a real pain. I used double stick tape to fashion the battery,I did not use any of the tamiya connectors for power transmission, only for charging. One of the cells wire came off before I had the battery done. I had to solder. But now I got this thing ironed out. Did I mention how well my bike run?
Each 7.2v battery cost me about $16ea and the chargers are $20, That's the price I paid for 100 volts..I'm very happy. Did I mention how well my bike runs at 100v?
 
For real close to the same price you could have built a 2P A123 pack which would have far better performance, reliability, and life than the NiMH cells... with some shopping around it would have even cost less.
 


Today i went 20 miles. My lifepo4 3yr old ping that I just revamped into 12 good cells wasn't quite up to the challenge. I ran it in series with my 96v battery that I switched to 48v. After 10 miles, the nimh was down to 44.3v. The ping went to 32.5v, got extremely hot, and smolderin duct tape smells really bad. Here is pic of all my batteries charging today. I have 6 nimh chargers plugged in at the same time, with 4 of them charging the 96v battery while it is still connected in series. These cells are working well for me. With 2 of these sub c 96v packs, I can easily go ten miles. Now to see how long they last....It is just easier for me to build a battery with cells already put together in groups with wires arrached, than weld cells together, or have a battery custom made. And also with the nimh, I can tell, by the speed and power of the bike, my state of charge, and when I am approaching empty. It is too easy to discharge a lifepo4 cell too much, without an active bms, and when the max discharge point is exceeded with the lifepo4, it would appear that there is no coming back, aka, the cell is ruined. My bike runs really good with 96v sub c cells. At half throttle, I am idling along at over 30mph! The nimh should last a couple years, right?
 
I love This new baTTery. IT works greaT. 10lbs. It makes a nice barbell. Its only 3"w.
Of course I'm sure it has some voltage sag at full throttle. So it goes faster on a higher voltage because I don't have to demand as many amps for my riding style. And of course voltage decreases through the time of the discharge; so that, i lose 10mph of top speed should I ride in the later half of discharge time period.

The really odd thing for me is a) how to tell when battery is fully charged. What is the best method to charge? Here are some of my observations. I have no prior hands-on experience with this type battery.

Here are some of my nimh observationS:
these R 4 the sub-c cells purchased as 6-cell configuration for model rc vehicles.
http://tinyurl.com/4zpc2sb

with these chargers--I purchased 8 of these.
http://tinyurl.com/489wbw4

I bought some other chinese cells from hong kong before these; but, it will take some time to get my order straightened out. The above cells and chargers are delivered in 3 days.

So the hong kong cells seemed to be charged already, and they didn't take much of a charge, and they didn't put out the claimed 6.8ah, more like 2ah, so that the first time I ran them, they ran out of juice, so that I had to finish the trip, so I kept the power on. On a load test at my destination, I was able to drop the cells ' voltage to .6 volts or so. After that the battery took a good charge (3ah or so). I did run this same battery later, and it went easily 6 miles.

The point of the above is that the later 10-c cells I bought arrived differently. They had about 7.2v or less. They took a big (3ah) charge right away. And they performed well the first time out, which brought to mind that perhaps these cells were "zapped" or something.

The chargers all work. But many times one will trun green prematurely. But usually on the low amp setting. 4 of the chargers have .7amp-1.5amp switch. The newer ones have 1amp=1.5amp. On the 1.5amp setting, the batteries will get pretty hot when charging completed. I use the 4 with the 1amp setting to charge at work. The last couple of days, they were not unplugged after the lights turned green, so that they stayed connected with power on for 5-6 hours after charging completed. I keep getting the thought that the chargers are trickle charging in some way. They are "tenergy" brand chargers. The reason I say this is that when I unplug the battery hours later, it is just slightly warm, which indicates charging. The voltage was 97.5v with chargers connected and green light. after 3 mile discharge, battery at 89.9v, then sit for an hour, up to 91.9v.

Now contrast this to what I did on my trip to work. I charged at 1.5amps the night before for about 1.75 hrs tops. The batteries were hot. Then unplug chargers. In morning, voltage at about 97.5v. I pluged into chargers at 1.5amps for less than 15 mins. Now voltage holding at 102.5 on cold battery. I worry again about blowing my 100v 5yr old controller. I don't have much choice, so I connect and go. No problem, only scorching performance with close to 40mph speed.
I have noticed that when I charged my batteries at work in this manner ( 2 charges), after discharge, voltage finishes at above 92. And then the oddest thing, which I have noticed more than once, is that after running the battery after the two step charge, when I charge it, charging is finished in an hour or less. This happened the other day. I got home. The battery was still warm from the discharge (it gets worked really hard). But tonight I want to charge at the lower rate, as this is supposed to be better (less damaging?) to the battery. So I plug in at .7amps, and chargers turn green in 55 minutes. So then I think I charged them at the higher rate in the next morning, but the chargers still turn green. So there appears some sort of weird difference of voltage measurement and charge acceptance, and extremely likely, total ah capacity,, relating to the temperature of the battery. When they get heated, voltage is depressed, and the heating from charging will also cause a drop in capacity during the time the battery is hot. Then when cool, more capacity can be added, with an accompanying increase in voltage. Of course all this is based on voltage measurement as a measure of capacity at any given moment. I'm not even sure of this first precept in relation to nimh. From what I've read and heard, as this battery finishes its charge, its voltage decreases. So then does this mean that the voltage will rise as it is discharged??? I haven't noticed or checked for that scenario. Maybe the reason the voltage goes down is because the heat goes up. It appears they go hand in hand.
So now the only logical following next course of action for performance increase of my power cell is to put it in the fridge. I was going to say the freezer, but I will try the fridge first and see what happens...

Does this sound right? Anyone want to share some nimh wisdom?
No matter. I am very thankful for my battery performance current LY.

I did desire a single 100v charger. I connected 2 ping chargers in series with another 12v charger. Now I have 2 chargers instead of 3...Don't NO until U try.
 
Do your chargers have thermistors? If so, they may be terminating charge due to leftover heat in the cell.

If not, they may be too sensitive to noise and detecting false -dV

Another possibility: if the charger terminates on some overvoltage (say 1.56V/cell) and you have any flaky charging connectors, the charger could see a false overvoltage from constant current mode.

And yes, it is entirely possible that your chargers switch to a trickle or pulse charge after the light turns green.
 
elblat said:
Do your chargers have thermistors? If so, they may be terminating charge due to leftover heat in the cell.

If not, they may be too sensitive to noise and detecting false -dV

Another possibility: if the charger terminates on some overvoltage (say 1.56V/cell) and you have any flaky charging connectors, the charger could see a false overvoltage from constant current mode.

And yes, it is entirely possible that your chargers switch to a trickle or pulse charge after the light turns green.

Charge termination is VERY tricky on NiMH. I've seen many a melted pack :mrgreen:

Nice, change of pace from the Lithium battery builds. Did you mange to find cheap NiMH cells?
 
grindz145 said:
Charge termination is VERY tricky on NiMH. I've seen many a melted pack :mrgreen:

My first ebike battery pack was a 36V, 7.4Ah NiMH pack, made from RC sub-C packs. One night the charger had a problem and I was woken up by a loud explosion in my study at around 4am. I managed to drag the exploding pack out of the house and chuck it on the drive, in time for a firework display as another dozen or so cells caught fire and exploded:

2234356001_a1ef6fd12a_b.jpg


This happened on a trickle charge at just 200mA.....................

In my view NiMH cells are every bit as dodgy as LiPo, but they do perform well and last a long time.

Jeremy
 
Wow that's impressive!

It is because of this forum's wisdom that I'm putting my cheap used (but still strong) NiMHs in 1000 degree fiberglass sleeves. I believe that when they go, they get hot enough to melt the plastic shrink wrap, which could short out adjacent cells and cause a chain reaction. Since I've got a kWH of cells that are capable of very high currents (Panasonic gives curves out to 20C) that could be quite a fire. Fusing may not do any good unless very carefully done so I'm going to back it up.

This sleeving looks good for D-cells, I'll know better when it arrives:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/803/=b6s11f

Then of course the whole pack goes in a metal box with fire-resistant padding and maybe only charge the thing in the middle of the concrete floor.
 
Congrats on popping wheelies with a 20amp controller. At what voltage does it start to pop wheelies?
 
My 96v batteries working great. I can get 5 miles, or 6 miles if I boost charge right before I leave. I made another 96v battery with chinese supposed 6.8 ah cells. Some mornings my battery at 103v. Bike ran fine....past tense....It doesn't run any more. I had the bright idea to complicate things even more: I made a 2nd 96v battery, and then I put the series-parallel switches on that one too. I had my bike all loaded up this morning for my 10 mile trip. I planned to run each battery on 48v and then connect them in series....I forgot to switch the new battery. So when I turned my power switch on, there was 150vdc going to the controller. The motor jumped, and then my switch burned apart. And even some smoke from one of my batteries. So 100v is ok; 150v was a really, really bad mistake. I didn't consider making it idiot proof, as I was the only one going to use it. I thought wrong! Anyone got a spare controller to sell? I need it yesterday.

As far as charging, my chargers work good. The thermister leads I stopped using first to eliminate that possibility. I see that nimh is a tricky beast to charge. Now after I ran my newest pack 6 miles, voltage of 18 cells at 22v. I put on 1 amp charge. After an hour one charger turn green. I have to keep an eye on charging. One of the chargers a little sensitive, and maybe battery not charge correctly when warm after use.

I'm done ebiking for the present. I called my wife to see if I could use her merida that she never rides. She agreed to bring me the kid's huffy bike.
I'll have to ride that one....the old fashioned way...brute strength....

When I attempt to connect any power at all to my controller now, it is a dead short between pos and neg. It was fun while it lasted. I'm looking forward to ebiking again some day.... :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
hello. my batteries been working but many cells burn like bacon. I am still using both my batteries. The 6.5ah cells were doing so well. But then perhaps I put on charge too soon, and/or charge at 1.5amp rather than 1. amp. The batteries had just completed their best run of 10 miles @ 30mph. I can also make the 10 miles with my 3.8ah 72cell, with bad cell, can go 10 miles at 22 mph. Now this battery has about three bad cells, losing power, but I still use daily, and my 6.5 ah had to replace 5 sticks, or 30 cells, which seller sent me 5 extra sticks. Now this battery get very hot under use, depending upon how many amps I use. I suppose they are all worn out now. I might buy more.
 
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