A complete hub motor longboard wheel I can buy/order?

mjp8081

100 W
Joined
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San Francisco Bay Area
How far away are we from having a complete working longboard hub motor wheel(s) I can buy complete, for a 2WD setup (Kv/power) preferably.

I just got done building my eMTB, now I want a longboard, but I thought I'd wait until there are some decent dual hub motor kits available. Pediglide? torqueboards?--thanks

thanks everybody
 
torqueboards said:
Mr Pediglide.
thanks man--I kinda gathered that from that post of yours asking about your order, but it seems like its kind of still in beta testing/short first run, just based on you waiting for him to fine tune something(?) Was it just a few off, or did he make a bunch? Are they well tested yet?
 
He's up to V2's now with a ton of tweaks to his initial design. There are a couple other hobby builders but at this time I don't think anyone else beside pediglide is selling them
 
mjp8081 said:
How far away are we from having a complete working longboard hub motor wheel(s) I can buy complete, for a 2WD setup (Kv/power) preferably.

I just got done building my eMTB, now I want a longboard, but I thought I'd wait until there are some decent dual hub motor kits available. Pediglide? torqueboards?--thanks

thanks everybody

So you think my Version 2 is not decent? I'd hate to tell you this but when it comes to E-board hub motors, there is nobody in the world offering to the public a more advance design than my Version 2 and which you can get in weeks, not next year. They may have a something more advance, but it's in the lab. Kinda makes you wonder why they do not offer it to the public already considering some have had substantial funding unlike me.

And you know why nobody else here is offering to sell them? It costs a lot to build them at small quantities. I'm the only one crazy enough and have enough free time on hand to build them. It would really be more expensive if I charge the real hours I spend making these.

You can wait for V3 which will have sensors, but I don't know if it will be decent enough for you. But fear not, you can always have something done to your exacting standards....make them yourself.
 
Well Pediglide i don't think mjp will say that your product isn't decent at all, maybe he is thinking that's it is not on sale yet and still in prototyping, pretty sure he will not critic the quality of you're work.

But you know sometimes reading a text can be confusing in the purpose, because you don't have the good intention transmitting through text only.

We all know you're working hard on the hub motor system for DIY community, and you are brave to do that by yourself.
 
Driving the V1 now for more then 3 months and >500km in distance, they're just awesome! I integrated 2 VESCs some days ago and everything is still fine (Startup_Boost value needed to be increased in the BLDC-Tool, that's all).

And it's definitely the most quiet of my builds with almost no drag. Pediglide does a great job!
 
mjp8081 said:
How far away are we from having a complete working longboard hub motor wheel(s) I can buy complete, for a 2WD setup (Kv/power) preferably.

I just got done building my eMTB, now I want a longboard, but I thought I'd wait until there are some decent dual hub motor kits available. Pediglide? torqueboards?--thanks

thanks everybody

stary board, they start shipping to customers in Nov 2015

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/staryboards/stary-worlds-best-electric-skateboard-get-yours-fo/description

photo-original.jpg


stary-board-kickstarter.jpg
 
Hello Pediglide!

I have been relentlessly reading as many blog entries and tutorials as I can for the past week to figure out how I want to build my next (and first) e-board and I think your hub motors are the way I want to go! I've read your journey of developing your V1's and V2's and it looks very promising!

If you don't mind, I have a few questions to ask regarding your hub motors - Questions are all in red for easy reference.

I think the only thing left to tackle is the coging which I assume you are trying to fix by using sensored motors in the V3's? Also, do you have a few real life specs to provide? I saw 25+ mph on 6s Lipo batteries on your website, however, could you give some more figures such as autonomy based on battery type and incline capabilities please? I live in a hilly city in Switzerland, and I'd like to go up some decent hills with a 2WD setup, if possible without killing my batteries in 10min 8) .

Final question, when do you expect to have the V3's up and running?

As of right now, these are the electronics I am looking to acquire:

Motors: 2x CarvON v3's hub motors
ESC: 2x VESC
Battery: 1x 10S S.P.A.C.E. cell 35C OR 3x 3S Turnigy nano-tech 4500mah 35c (4mm connectors) OR 3x 3S Turnigy nano-tech A-SPEC 4500mah 65C (5mm connectors) (which one?)
Remote: Kama Wii nunchuck
Voltometer: If I decide to go the Lipo way, to prevent over discharge (does the VESC automatically cut off the power to prevent discharge?) and for practicality while riding, a Waterproof DC 15-120V Digital Voltmeter

Does this look like a decent setup? I welcome any feedback anyone can give me!

BTW I own a cruiser/longboard company in Switzerland called Vēga Boards (http://www.vegaboards.com). We hand-make solid wood decks and I'd like to custom design one with enclosures to hold all the tech :D
 
His 2 wheel hub setup doesn't cog at all. A few of us have had the pleasure of riding them.
 
umm...do you really have to ask on this thread? You could have done it on mine. :)

1. Watch my videos. If you think my start up is cogging, then you haven't been on a high kv belt-driven board.

2. what is autonomy based on battery life? If you are asking about mileage, I get 1Ah per 1 mile on 2 motors with 95% riding on more than 20+ mph. So before I had 5000mah battery, I got 5 miles. Now I have 10000mah, I get 10 miles.

3. I have not recorded the incline capabilities, but it is strong. I'll download an app and check it for you. Just need to find the time. But hill-climbing will depend a lot on your voltage and battery capability.

4. V3's will be offered after I'm done building a complete board prototype with V3 Hub motors, swappable batteries and no-grip remote control. I plan to make it look like 313 skateboard's Vector Hybrid model. It will probably happen next year already.

P1050656.jpg


5. I like the A-specs, they are very thin. I have not used space cell but I think you would like to have a battery that can at least push out 100 amps, especially if you plan to climb hills a lot.

6. Low voltage alarm is better because it tells when to take it easy, instead of bogging down all of a sudden.

7. I would go with 8s or more for hill climbing. The hub motors are not the problem, it's the ESC and battery that you are going to use.

Those are very cool boards. 8)
 
CSN said:
How do the V2 hub wheels brake on a real downhills?

Braking depends on the ESCs. On Xerun, I have it at 100% and it will not stop all the way on a very steep downhill. On the fvt 120A, I have it at 50% and if I'm not careful, it will throw me forward.

Then you have the very lovely and magnificent Flier ESC that does not brake at all....what a waste.
 
Pediglide said:
mjp8081 said:
How far away are we from having a complete working longboard hub motor wheel(s) I can buy complete, for a 2WD setup (Kv/power) preferably.

I just got done building my eMTB, now I want a longboard, but I thought I'd wait until there are some decent dual hub motor kits available. Pediglide? torqueboards?--thanks

thanks everybody

So you think my Version 2 is not decent? I'd hate to tell you this but when it comes to E-board hub motors, there is nobody in the world offering to the public a more advance design than my Version 2 and which you can get in weeks, not next year. They may have a something more advance, but it's in the lab. Kinda makes you wonder why they do not offer it to the public already considering some have had substantial funding unlike me.

And you know why nobody else here is offering to sell them? It costs a lot to build them at small quantities. I'm the only one crazy enough and have enough free time on hand to build them. It would really be more expensive if I charge the real hours I spend making these.

You can wait for V3 which will have sensors, but I don't know if it will be decent enough for you. But fear not, you can always have something done to your exacting standards....make them yourself.

Whoa, wait--hold on Pedi, I have NO opinion (nor can I) on what you make, I was just asking who makes good hub motors. Did you accidentally quote me in your post? I was not aware of your v2, thats why I was asking. I'm sorry if I offended you.
 
Pediglide said:
4. V3's will be offered after I'm done building a complete board prototype with V3 Hub motors, swappable batteries and no-grip remote control. I plan to make it look like 313 skateboard's Vector Hybrid model. It will probably happen next year already.

P1050656.jpg

That's my man! :mrgreen: I want to see this! I'll try to accelerate my treks too lol I wish we take a ride together soon enough :wink:
 
Vulthor said:
Well Pediglide i don't think mjp will say that your product isn't decent at all, maybe he is thinking that's it is not on sale yet and still in prototyping, pretty sure he will not critic the quality of you're work.

But you know sometimes reading a text can be confusing in the purpose, because you don't have the good intention transmitting through text only.

We all know you're working hard on the hub motor system for DIY community, and you are brave to do that by yourself.


Yes, exactly--thx Vulthor
 
Pediglide said:
umm...do you really have to ask on this thread? You could have done it on mine. :)

1. Watch my videos. If you think my start up is cogging, then you haven't been on a high kv belt-driven board.

2. what is autonomy based on battery life? If you are asking about mileage, I get 1Ah per 1 mile on 2 motors with 95% riding on more than 20+ mph. So before I had 5000mah battery, I got 5 miles. Now I have 10000mah, I get 10 miles.

3. I have not recorded the incline capabilities, but it is strong. I'll download an app and check it for you. Just need to find the time. But hill-climbing will depend a lot on your voltage and battery capability.

4. V3's will be offered after I'm done building a complete board prototype with V3 Hub motors, swappable batteries and no-grip remote control. I plan to make it look like 313 skateboard's Vector Hybrid model. It will probably happen next year already.

5. I like the A-specs, they are very thin. I have not used space cell but I think you would like to have a battery that can at least push out 100 amps, especially if you plan to climb hills a lot.

6. Low voltage alarm is better because it tells when to take it easy, instead of bogging down all of a sudden.

7. I would go with 8s or more for hill climbing. The hub motors are not the problem, it's the ESC and battery that you are going to use.

Those are very cool boards. 8)


Awesome! Thanks for your complete answer! I can repost in your thread too if you'd like :D.

Is 65C overkill for an e-board battery? If I take 3 of the A-Spec 4500mah 3S I will have 9S at 33.3 volts and 65C. I'm not familiar on how to do the math yet but it looks that with this setup I will have 877 amp :? bit too much no?

I'm just looking for a thin profile battery that has enough juice to take me about 15 miles in be low profiled for about $150-200.
 
mjp8081 said:
...
Whoa, wait--hold on Pedi, I have NO opinion (nor can I) on what you make, I was just asking who makes good hub motors. Did you accidentally quote me in your post? I was not aware of your v2, thats why I was asking. I'm sorry if I offended you.

No worries dude. I apologize too. :oops:

sheil said:
...


Awesome! Thanks for your complete answer! I can repost in your thread too if you'd like :D.

Is 65C overkill for an e-board battery? If I take 3 of the A-Spec 4500mah 3S I will have 9S at 33.3 volts and 65C. I'm not familiar on how to do the math yet but it looks that with this setup I will have 877 amp :? bit too much no?

I'm just looking for a thin profile battery that has enough juice to take me about 15 miles in be low profiled for about $150-200.

65c*4.5ah*33.3v=9740.25 watts. The motors are rated only up to 2250 watts, two of them will be 4500w. So yeah, 65c is overkill. But there is no harm in doing it unless you overfeed your motors.

Make sure you put a fuse or circuit breaker at 140a-150a. You don't want the motors taking more than they can handle. At 150a*33.3v, you are producing 4995 watts. I have never gone past 3000 watts even at my record of 35mph.

You will not get 15 miles with 4500mah though, even if it is 9s. You would need at least 10000mah, maybe 12000mah at 9s.
 
I think I'll go for a pre assembled speciality (for e-boards) power pack. I am now debating between a Lipo pack such as the Alien Power Pack 8s 10000mah at 25C http://alienpowersystem.com/shop/alien-power-pack/alien-power-pack-8s-10000mah-25c-lipo/ and a Li-Ion such as the SPACE cell from enertion 10s 7500mah - I'm worried I won't have enough juice with the space cell. Both have built in BMS's and voltage meters.
 
sheil said:
Pediglide said:
umm...do you really have to ask on this thread? You could have done it on mine. :)

1. Watch my videos. If you think my start up is cogging, then you haven't been on a high kv belt-driven board.

2. what is autonomy based on battery life? If you are asking about mileage, I get 1Ah per 1 mile on 2 motors with 95% riding on more than 20+ mph. So before I had 5000mah battery, I got 5 miles. Now I have 10000mah, I get 10 miles.

3. I have not recorded the incline capabilities, but it is strong. I'll download an app and check it for you. Just need to find the time. But hill-climbing will depend a lot on your voltage and battery capability.

4. V3's will be offered after I'm done building a complete board prototype with V3 Hub motors, swappable batteries and no-grip remote control. I plan to make it look like 313 skateboard's Vector Hybrid model. It will probably happen next year already.

5. I like the A-specs, they are very thin. I have not used space cell but I think you would like to have a battery that can at least push out 100 amps, especially if you plan to climb hills a lot.

6. Low voltage alarm is better because it tells when to take it easy, instead of bogging down all of a sudden.

7. I would go with 8s or more for hill climbing. The hub motors are not the problem, it's the ESC and battery that you are going to use.

Those are very cool boards. 8)


Awesome! Thanks for your complete answer! I can repost in your thread too if you'd like :D.

Is 65C overkill for an e-board battery? If I take 3 of the A-Spec 4500mah 3S I will have 9S at 33.3 volts and 65C. I'm not familiar on how to do the math yet but it looks that with this setup I will have 877 amp :? bit too much no?

I'm just looking for a thin profile battery that has enough juice to take me about 15 miles in be low profiled for about $150-200.

9s is more than 33 volts.
i like those batteries, they have nice hole connections as apposed to wires coming out.

Pediglide do you think the motor"s continuous wattage number is real? Maybe it is assuming in a plane with wind. I hear there's a lot of exaggeration in the business. maybe you could test on a track or something and see what happens with the temp if you run that continuously. the hub motors I'm getting are 25mm tall stator and 47mm diameter with N45h magnets and .2mm laminations (scorpion motor quality) and they quote the power at 1500 each. two horsepower continous makes it sound as if one motor would be good enough really so I'm suspicious of all number the sellers quote.

pediglide what are those esc you give the abreviations for? which do you find the quietest breaking?
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Pediglide do you think the motor"s continuous wattage number is real? Maybe it is assuming in a plane with wind. I hear there's a lot of exaggeration in the business. maybe you could test on a track or something and see what happens with the temp if you run that continuously. the hub motors I'm getting are 25mm tall stator and 47mm diameter with N45h magnets and .2mm laminations (scorpion motor quality) and they quote the power at 1500 each. two horsepower continous makes it sound as if one motor would be good enough really so I'm suspicious of all number the sellers quote.


I have a setup with the same 63mm motors as pedi sells that I'm prototyping, and yes, you can pull 2kw a motor. If I pin mine to accelerate hard, it will cut out due to battery sag after 2-3 seconds, and my watt meter will be reading about 3.5kw power. When I get my new batt's on the setup I don't think I would have a problem getting 5kw peak power readings. From my perspective, this is much more power than you really need/want 99% of the time.

I'm holding my drive system out until I know it is fully reproducible and faultless. Trialling some new motors soon.

25x47 stator would be similar to the 6354 motor, and that geared modestly is not hugely reliable in my opinion. One might be enough for up to 15mph, but dual would be the way.
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
9s is more than 33 volts.

Yeah, it's 33.3 volts. That's what he and I said. What's your point?

Hummina Shadeeba said:
Pediglide do you think the motor"s continuous wattage number is real? Maybe it is assuming in a plane with wind. I hear there's a lot of exaggeration in the business. maybe you could test on a track or something and see what happens with the temp if you run that continuously. the hub motors I'm getting are 25mm tall stator and 47mm diameter with N45h magnets and .2mm laminations (scorpion motor quality) and they quote the power at 1500 each. two horsepower continous makes it sound as if one motor would be good enough really so I'm suspicious of all number the sellers quote.

I don't know, as I said I haven't reached 3k watts on both of them. So that's less than 1500w on each. They are rated 2250w each. I'm already reaching 35mph and I don't plan to go any faster just to find out the continuous wattage.

The 6374 stator is bigger at 50mm diameter and 46mm tall. I also have 190kv sk3 6354 dual hub motors. I would love to use them because less of the motor is exposed, but they get hot as hell. I hope to see ride test of your motors soon, or any one's else setup for that matter.

FVT's are quiet, so are Fliers, mainly because they hardly brake at all for me.

EDIT: The 190kv is 6364.
 
sheil said:
I'm worried I won't have enough juice with the space cell.

what do you mean, juice?

are you talking how long you can ride for? OR are you talking peak amps you can draw?

in terms of capacity these batteries you are comparing are nearly identical. The alien copy of the space cell is 296Wh - The SPACE cell is 277Wh.... this is equivalent to about 2kms in terms of range difference. but maybe not even that depends what the voltage sag is like with those unknown lipo in alien pack.

PLEASE NOTE - These packs might look similar - but they are nothing alike!!!!

The Alien pack uses LIPO which at absolute best is good for about 300 charges - LIPO Cells tend to get out of balance very easily, the BMS might help but there is no specs about the BMS and whether it has cell balancing features. The Alien Pack should not be charged unattended - risk of fire is much greater with lipo if a cell is damaged or a cell has been over discharged.

The SPACE Cell uses High quality / High discharge Cells made by LG. Expect at the absolute minimum Double the lifespan at 600 charges (that's if you abuse it). But realistically it's probably going to last around 900 charge cycles - thats up to 3 times longer. The chemisty used in the 18650 type cell is renowned for staying balanced when in a pack with other cells. Some people use them without BMS and after several charge cycles still have cells balanced. The battery chemistry is much more stable, any battery can exploded & cause fire if abused, but the chance of it happening with the SPACE cell is much much lower.

base don the current advertised prices online the space cell is about 6% more expensive, but we offer free world wide shipping, so it is probably cheaper once you add shipping charges for Alien.

So when you look at cost-per use - The SPACE cell at absolute worst is about 76 Cents per charge VS the Alien absolute best $1.44 per charge (more if you add shipping)
 
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