A123 20AHr Pouch Cell Battery Build & Info Thread

999zip999 said:
Ok one more cell went dead. so I have that riveted one and this was a 24s pack and will leave the copper rivet cell and run one as 11s and one as 12s still good for 62v lvc controller cutoff. No bms just balance wires. I don't see there with there would be a problem with running a 12s and 11s in series ??8 plus years old and 1,520 charge cycles.
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Greentec got big 20Ah chunks of thes for decent $.


Look at em all.


https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?item=222624287084&_ssn=greentechybridbatteries&_osacat=0&hash=item33d571096c%3Ag%3A674AAOSwqv9V5xbj&_odkw=&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313&_nkw=a123&_sacat=0
 
I'm looking for an opinion on these cells, hoping to build a battery big enough for an 8kw hub motor ,anyinfo welcome Lot of 14 New A123 pouch cells WX12I3267 3.2V 67Ah 3.2kWh LiFePO4 $125/kWh!! | eBay
With a fardriver 96850., battery space is 18" long by 10 high approx,
How about a 24 series module? $800 in cells.s-l1600.jpg
 
Ok that sounds good. I had a 24s 1 p pack of A123 20ah . All I did was Hammer that thing with an 80 amp controller. No BMS just balance leads four 6s. And I bought 12s balance charger. Twice . They broke. So I just bulk charge these things for 8 years no problems.
40,000 miles 1,480 cycles.
I over drain it, you know I was testing it and playing with it and I was too far from home and I lost 6 cells. I tried replacing these cells with cells button from different people and even though they said they had the original tabs at the bottom you can see like a railroad zipper where they laser welded new tabs and I found these reclaimed retab sales never to fully charge.
I was able to get a few cells through a E.S. member and made it 20s .one 12s is original and the other is 8s.
Yes I split the pack because it was on a bicycle one in the triangle and one on the rear rack.
So before you buy the cells make sure the tabs weren't laser welded on because the cells were ripped out of a existing big pack. They make these cells in China now and USA. So you can get them new. But very expensive. Hard to tell where the reasonable price cells come from.
But Green tech sells a variation of the cell meaning I don't know if they welded on different tabs which is a No-No. Because when they weld them on so close to the bottom of the cell they can have complications.

Best pack I ever had the cells never went out of balance. Charge them to 3.5 discharge them to 2.8v.

It makes it easier to talk about this since you're in the US of a.
 
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999zip999 said:
Ok that sounds good. I had a 24s 1 p pack of A123 20ah . All I did was Hammer that thing with an 80 amp controller. No BMS just balance leads four 6s. And I bought 12s balance charger. Twice . They broke. So I just bulk charge these things for 8 years no problems.
40,000 miles 1,480 cycles.
I over drain it, you know I was testing it and playing with it and I was too far from home and I lost 6 cells. I tried replacing these cells with cells button from different people and even though they said they had the original tabs at the bottom you can see like a railroad zipper where they laser welded new tabs and I found these reclaimed retab sales never to fully charge.
I was able to get a few cells through a E.S. member and made it 20s .one 12s is original and the other is 8s.
Yes I split the pack because it was on a bicycle one in the triangle and one on the rear rack.
So before you buy the cells make sure the tabs weren't laser welded on because the cells were ripped out of a existing big pack. They make these cells in China now and USA. So you can get them new. But very expensive. Hard to tell where the reasonable price cells come from.
But Green tech sells a variation of the cell meaning I don't know if they welded on different tabs which is a No-No. Because when they weld them on so close to the bottom of the cell they can have complications.

Best pack I ever had the cells never went out of balance. Charge them to 3.5 discharge them to 2.8v.

It makes it easier to talk about this since you're in the US of a.
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Good info on welded tabs , these ones seem to ok unless the tab was longer and it was cut down, On there website they have a 20ah a123 for $210 for one cell,
These seem too good to be true,14 for $400,
My plan a was Chevy volt 88v about 47ah about $1000.
 
Including okay we can't help you unless we know what frame you have what you're trying to build how much battery space you have and the size of your controller yeah which far driver they got hundreds.
 
999zip999 said:
Including okay we can't help you unless we know what frame you have what you're trying to build how much battery space you have and the size of your controller yeah which far driver they got hundreds.
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You can see it in the motorcycle build section,I don't know how to link, Kawasaki ninja 250 build
My space 18"long and 10+"high, fardriver ND96850
 
The reason I ask you might be better off with automotive battery and a Bluetooth BMS. I love high-powered cells used at a lower rate. I have a Samsung 40t 20s 6p or 72v 24ah , 180 amp pack in theory. Using it at 80 amps.
How many amp hour do you need ?
That controllers a beast.
 
I would think around 50ah, I need high discharge amps for good acceleration,
Short runs around the neighborhood,no long trips,
AZLithium has Chevy volt gen 2 modules I am interested in but no feedback from them,
That's when I figured I would build a pouch pack with nuts and bolts DIY
Can't weld with Pace Maker. Looking for ideas,
 
I bolted a 1p spaim08 14s and 20s packs and A1 two 12s A123 20ah pack The spaim08 are heavy and large. Get cell a 8ah cell delivers 9ah. The A123 20ah never needed balance 9yrs 1,480 charge cycles. Just big and heavy. A123 makes a NMC cell charges to 4.2v so 20s not 24s
I like the leaf modules if you can fit them measure before you buy because you can't fold them in half make a cardboard box see how it fits. Pre fit. Always.
 
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I too like the leaf module and could fit 12 of them, but do not know if it would be enough power,any discharge information welcome,my budget is $1000.
Did you mean SPIM08 ,not enough ah per cell 16ah,I like the bolt together idea.
How safe are the a123 nmc cells
I will have to email Green Tec Auto tomorrow about those A123 67ah cells. Discharge and weight unknown to me
 
What I like is a big ampere hour cell that can discharge high amps and take a high amp recharge. Hopefully all in one cell for 1p assembly easy to monitor easy to replace known bad cell. As opposed to Tesla idea of big parallel string or 60ah of 18650 of 20amp 2500 mah. Or 24 cells for a 60ah string 480amp battery plus 20 s. Madness!!!

So big pouch cell . is best in my opinion. How would they fit ? The big question.
Are you talking about for these ?

www.ebay.com

A123 25.2V 60Ah 1.5kWh LiFePo4 Lithium Battery Module | eBay

Nominal Capacity: 60Ah. Battery is in good working condition. Gray balancing board connector may be on (+) or (-) side of battery. Chemistry: Lifepo4. Note: Battery not intended for Fisker Karma or Karma Automotive vehicles.
www.ebay.com
 
I have some of those A123 modules that were removed from a Fisker. They are big and heavy and very hard to reconfigure, but work great if you can keep them in the original housing.
 
Or the 24s3p. Those seem to last a very long time I have 24s and bolted together as 12s for 24ap I've logged backpack forever 9 years I still have my garage I got 20s because I experimented and took them down to zeros stupid me

I don't know but I think the 24s 3p or I'll come in fisker which are sketchy the reason why they came out of the factory so fast with crooked tabs and not a good thing
 
peadar said:
I'm looking for an opinion on these cells, hoping to build a battery big enough for an 8kw hub motor
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All my builds use these A123 cells.
They are simply the best thing available if you need high discharge, long life and safety at the same time. Perfect for a high power daily.
I just can't seem to find anything better yet.

Only drawback is they have a low ratio weight/size/capacity, so it's not the best choice for long range.
They start showing some significant voltage sag above 500A, but it doesn't seem to damage them much. I'd say the practial maximum for a 24S 2P is around 500-600A. Above this the voltage sag starts becoming too high.

So far I own three 24S packs (one is 1P the other two are 2P) and I converted a few friends to use these as well, no one ever complained ;)
They are used on powerful setups, so they get some severe beatings.

I had a few cells gone bad because of some physical damage (the pack got smashed during delivery). Got em replaced, apparently the tabs can be soldered with regular solder, at least that's how the repair shop did it on mine, so there seems to be no actual need for a laser welder. Other than this I never had any issue with them, they seem pretty much bulletproof. My motorcycle's pack has been manufactured in 2012, I got it second hand, installed it in 2018 and it's still kicking ass, delivering 400-500A everyday.
 
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The Fisker pull outs I got were 7s 3p. They all had 1-2 bad cells, which I bypassed with jumper wires. They were free, so the price was right.
 
Last year I bought 8 pieces A123 Lifepo 20Ah cell. My test with 500A showed 3,2mOhm for 8S1P at 25°C which is good.
Temperature rises fast to 45C and above with 500A. Cell drift <10mV, which is also very good.
 
999zip999 said:
What I like is a big ampere hour cell that can discharge high amps and take a high amp recharge. Hopefully all in one cell for 1p assembly easy to monitor easy to replace known bad cell. As opposed to Tesla idea of big parallel string or 60ah of 18650 of 20amp 2500 mah. Or 24 cells for a 60ah string 480amp battery plus 20 s. Madness!!!

So big pouch cell . is best in my opinion. How would they fit ? The big question.
Are you talking about for these ?

www.ebay.com

A123 25.2V 60Ah 1.5kWh LiFePo4 Lithium Battery Module | eBay

Nominal Capacity: 60Ah. Battery is in good working condition. Gray balancing board connector may be on (+) or (-) side of battery. Chemistry: Lifepo4. Note: Battery not intended for Fisker Karma or Karma Automotive vehicles.
www.ebay.com
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The ones i am looking at are now on the greentec auto site 67ah pouch cell A123?
they say they are new? Seem like tabs are short, still looking for discharge rate?s-l1600.jpg
 
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Ok asked them if there is a railroad track of laser weld
You know they're big do you want to go 20s 24s ?
The Biggest pro with the sale of 123 pouches is they could be ripped out of a A123 7p3s or 24p3s packs that were laser welded together and never meant to be taken apart so they cut it at the tab and then they laser weld another tab on there and I don't like that technique at all.
So if by any cells you must have a picture of the cell that you're going to get and ask them is there a laser welding Mark at the bottom and tell them you know what it looks like so that's why you need to see the exact cell that you are going to buy. Amen
 
Couldn't find any specs on them at the moment but that 20 amp your hour version made in USA can do 150 amps. And that's three times 20 ampss hour. 800 amps a guess. It's hard to read a 1 2 3 systems web page for documentary but they look like they're 20c ? I wonder if they're made in China or United States they say brand new and the tabs look brand new.
But to prove what I say go look at 20 ampere hour version for sale and find them for cheap and look at the picture and see a little discoloration line at the bottom of the tab one tabs aluminum one tab is copper that's why it's easy to bolt them together. The drutledge build on page 2 in this thread. Ez and bolt together
Remember to use an insulated tubing over the all stock to hold it together.
 
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We're on page 41 go to page 2 and look for the bolt together build with a alternating aluminum and plastic blocks with a rod at top ran through some quality refrigerator ice maker tube. Yeah that hard plastic one or something like that where you run the through rod through to bolt all the tabs together. I still have the pack downstairs 24s had it for 10 years I need to put in another bike but it's heavy and big one on the triangle one on the rear rack. Sag what's sag at 80amps I twisted that 80 amp controller full throttle everywhere I went up the hill down the hill.
 
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