Action Camera

LewTwo

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I wanted to take some clips of riding my new E-Trike. So I mounted my old Nikon S7000 (point and shoot camera) on the trike at various places. It produces 1080I/P quicktime MOV files. However they were so shakey/bouncy/jittery that the clips are basically usable. Perhaps it is time I added an 'Action Camera' to my collection.

I am serious looking at a "DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DBQTC2P7
I like the fact that it has OLED displays (front and rear) and its small size.
I do not like that it uses those tiny, too easy to lose, micro-SD cards (but that seems to be a standard for action cameras).
I also do not like that the GPS option is an US-$80 add one (GoPro 13 has GPS built in).
It seems that by the time one gets the needed bits and bobs, the investment is closer to US-$700 than the US-$350 basic package cost.

Anyone have any thoughts or comments ???
 
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Do you really need GPS and a display?

That's an impressive unit for the dollar, i've never thought about buying dji before.

If you are looking for inexpensive, consider a sony action cam.. they can be bought used for nothing and tend to be very reliable. Very good anti shake.
 
Do you really need GPS and a display?

That's an impressive unit for the dollar, i've never thought about buying dji before.

If you are looking for inexpensive, consider a sony action cam.. they can be bought used for nothing and tend to be very reliable. Very good anti shake.
Not need ... more like want. Display to see where it is actually aimed. GPS to prove/disprove what the speedometer/odometer is showing (which I think is optimistic and will likely be further off once I change the tires).
 
The most important feature is the image stabilization. Maybe you’ll use some of the other features, but my guess is you may try them, but never use them. The screens are too small to ever use in an action setting, and the field of view is so wide, you just need to point the camera in the general direction and you’re good. The only time I use the display is to check that the camera is on, and occasionally to check the battery charge. Interesting that a camera gps would display speed and not just position, but seems like another useless feature. I’d suggest a GoPro 8 or above for stabilization.
 
The most important feature is the image stabilization. Maybe you’ll use some of the other features, but my guess is you may try them, but never use them. The screens are too small to ever use in an action setting, and the field of view is so wide, you just need to point the camera in the general direction and you’re good. The only time I use the display is to check that the camera is on, and occasionally to check the battery charge. Interesting that a camera gps would display speed and not just position, but seems like another useless feature. I’d suggest a GoPro 8 or above for stabilization.
Thank thee :)

I decided to consider the question from a different perspective. Because neither DJI or GoPro support Linux I started looking at what Linux applications are available for the various camera. For DJI I found nada. However the DJI line has a UVC enabled USB Type-C port. Thus most of the DJI line can be connected directly to a real computer with the Linux OS and used as a WebCam. GoPro has some DeskTop software but only for Windows or Mac. However there does seem to be some third party tools for the GoPro line.

Both systems also treat the GPS data as an 'after thought'. The recommended method is to transfer the file/files to a SmartAss-phone. Then use the product's SmartAss-phone app to overlay the GPS data on the video. Only then can one transfer the Video file to a real computer. This requires two SmartAss-phone file transfers (in and out). Fortunately there are some third party desktop packages for this purpose as well. One of those is Telemetry Overlay. It is a commercial product ($150) with versions for Windows, Mac and Linux. It will also accept various data file sources. The problem is getting the GPS data file synced up with the video file.

Both DJI and GoPro sync their time to the SmartAss-Phone via the app. If one uses the same SmartAss-Phone with a GPS speedometer/tracking program then the GPS data file and the video file SHOULD have the same internal time codes. This pretty much renders the camera's GPS capability a mute point.

Another point of interest: GoPro Versions 11, 12 and 13 all have the same processor, sensor and performance specifications. This includes the GoPro Version 11 Mini (but it has neither a display or GPS or decent microphone options). Note also that version 12 did not have GPS.

As long as I must use a damned SmartAss-Phone for time sync then I might as well use it for GPS, checking where the camera is pointed and manage the camera as well. Therefore I decided to order a GoPro Version 11 Mini.
GoPro Heroe 11 Mini 00.jpg


Reference:

P.S.
I just happen to have a brand new Garmin Zumo XT2 GPS unit that I purchased for my Kymco petrol scooter. The scooter was stolen before I got it installed. .... however that would have to be another project as it requires 12 VDC and a SmartAss-Phone as well.
 

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The DJI looks like a great camera if you plan to use it for more than an action camera. Good for YouTubers with the front display for selfie vids, and location stamping videos, etc.
 
Regarding all the sync/desync stuff. I have an insta360 x4 which can (if paired to their remote or a phone or a few different gps watch options) record GPS data to the video file. I believe they just came out with the Action2, so you could look at that as an option, or scour the used market for some, now marked down, action 1's. (Edit: just re-read and see that you already made a pick, oops!)

As for editing -- I just plug the unit/sd card into my computer and the data is embedded in the video clips. Apparently the editing software can run under linux, but I have no first hand experience of that. When you've framed your clips, you can export each with the data as a GPX file. This makes it SUPER easy to sync the clip data to the fullride data in Telemetry Overlay. For example, you can record the full trip with, say, ridewithgps and export that as a GPX file. Then when you are in TO, you load the video clip, the video clip's GPX file, and the full ride GPX file. I've generally found TO will auto-sync the two GPX files together correctly, and thus you can use the full ride for things like the map view (so it shows the full journey instead of just the snippet of path from the clip's GPX) or alternative data.

As an example, here's a clip in which I mixed together data from my CA, PR, and the X4.
 
Not need ... more like want. Display to see where it is actually aimed. GPS to prove/disprove what the speedometer/odometer is showing (which I think is optimistic and will likely be further off once I change the tires).
I question how important GPS would be post-accident/incident, surely a sufficiently clear visual record of what occurred would be enough to assign blame? I don't think the footage has to be stable. I use an inexpensive GoPro Hero 7 Black, and the image stabilisation is very good even at night, provided you use the right settings. For proof of speed, my speedo is visible much of the time at night, not as clear in bright daylight of course. I leave the camera to decide ISO between 100 and 800, after setting shutter speed to 1/960s - this way, I don't need to change settings as day turns to night, and there's no motion blur smudging number plates. What you lose in colour with high shutter speeds, you gain with non-blurry number plates and better image stabilisation.


gopro-day-and-night-settings-960.jpg


At 1/960s, the video is underexposed, but there's enough sharpness for the camera to calculate stabilisation...

(VLC framegrab of video, downhill and slowing down)
vlcsnap-2024-10-24-11h01m58s879.jpg


(DPC18 display refresh is too slow at 1/960s shutter, appears to flicker, as do LEDs of vehicles and street lighting)
vlcsnap-2024-10-22-23h38m08s660.jpg


The above brightened reveals number plate detail...


vlcsnap-2024-10-22-23h38m08s660s.jpg


It works wonderfully in daylight, records all number plates etc. I never ride without my action camera flight recorder. Fortunately for cyclists, aside from the fixed lens, GoPro have built some measure of DSLR-like manual control into the Hero 7 Black. It's useless on full auto for anything other than surfing or skiing vids shot in bright daylight. Newer GoPros would of course be better, and more expensive, but I don't think you have to spend that much to cover the important bases - GoPro Hero 7 Blacks are going cheep, but you can turn that off. Later models have stabilisation with horizon lock. I don't need "cinematic" motion blur, I want clear recording of details like number plates - pause video to read plates moving towards or away from the camera. Original quality is a tad higher, Vimeo doesn't squeeze as much quality out of video by way of compression as Youtube, but it's still quite the excessive squeeze. For my purposes I don't mind graininess, provided the grains are too small to obscure number plates.



 
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