Advice for bike

[malibudude]

Hi there,

Received a ping 48v15ah battery which totally blew my amped bikes front motor. Looking to replace it now. not sure who to buy from or which motor. Most of my cycling is on level ground except for a few hills to/from work. THis will be 100% for commuting to work.

I want to do 48v, front mount with disc brakes. I've ready plenty in the forum, however, not sure what motor/controller will work best with my battery.

My commute has a lot of stop and go. I had a geared which was nice when it worked, but I really like the 48v setup. Not sure if I should be looking another geared or DD.

I want something reliable and reasonable. What about the magicpie 3 or should I go with ebikes.ca (seems pricey compared).
thanks

 

[dogman dan]

Hmm, that shouldn't have happened, even with the little gearmotor. Sure it wasn't the hill you were riding up?

Nearly anything dd will easily handle the recomended maximum controller for that battery, 20-25 amps. So a 9c, HT clyte, muxus dd, amped dd, E-BikeKit, conhis, yescom usa, golden pie, etc etc should be ok.

But if you have a severe route to ride,( hills) you'll want to choose a winding or wheel size wisely.

 

[motomech]

You did something wrong.
I've been running an Amped Geared motor on 48 Volts for over a year with no problems what so ever.
What "25 Amp controller" were you using?

 

[malibudude]

Controller from amped bikes kit. I thought I did my research and don't get why my motor is now dead. Had a guy come and test things out yesterday. One of the sensors in the motor isn't working...motor spins sporadically I guess depending on where the sensor is in the rotation.

 

[motomech]

Thanks for responding.
Bad luck I guess, although I read in one of your posts you mentioned "decent long hills".
I'm getting ready to upgrade from the stock 17 Amp controller to a true 25 Amp controller, so maybe I should use my CA to dial it back to 20 Amps.
At any rate, did you want to stay with a frt. motor?
Members here have used the larger geared motors on the frt.[Mac, BPM, etc], but they have stayed at 36 Volts.
I'm thinking a larger motor than a mini on 48 Volts means you will have to go to a rear mount.
The MP3 seems like overkill.
The least expensive and easiest route might be the MXUS DD[9C clone]from Cell_man. He would probably sell you a motor/wheel only and you could use the rest of your Amped kit that you have. I think the connectors might even match up.
That motor on 48V/22A would get you 25 to 26 mph and decent climbing.
If you used two torque arms, you probably could frt. mount that. Dogman has a 9C on the frt. They are known to be durable.

http://www.emissions-free.com/catalog/i14.html

 

[malibudude]

I want to stick my front drive.

My controller says 36v so shouldnt I get a 48v controller?

Ebikes sells a crystallite motor hs35 I think.
I just want something reliable fast (48v) can handle a few hills, tested and can handle all weather conditions.

 

[nicobie]

Ebikes sells a crystallite motor hs35 I think.

That would be a good choice for 48v and 25 - 30 amps controller.

 

[malibudude]

Is that compatible with my ping 48/15 battery?
Is there a cheaper option or is the pricing competitive?

Thanks

 

[dogman dan]

Ping 48v 15 ah battery is compatible with 48v 20 to 25 amp controllers. Run any motor you like, but don't try to run a 35 amp controller. Or use a DP CA to limit amps to 25. Some have run bigger controllers on that size ping, but it's not the path to maximum cycles.

Could be you did nothing much wrong, if your trouble is just a hall sensor died. Ive had em survive in abused motors, and had em die in motors used normal. Dead halls can be a bit luck of the draw.

Typical dd kit motors tend to have no problems climbing long duration 7% grades when run at 48v 20 amps. They can climb 10%, but by that grade it's best to pedal hard enough to keep em moving at 15 mph minimum.

 

[malibudude]

I think it was just bad luck. Maybe I'll get it repaired and have a back up bike.

So it seems the crystallite motor will be more than sufficient and durable for needs. I'll contact cell man and see what he suggests.

 

[motomech]

Is that compatible with my ping 48/15 battery?
Is there a cheaper option or is the pricing competitive?

Thanks

I already told you what the least expensive motor would be.
Look at the pictures. Notice the connectors are the same? "Plug and play"
If you go with something else you will at least have to,
1]cut the wiring and solder or crimp in different connectors.
2]buy another entire kit.

The DD MXUS from Cell_man would be about half the price of the Crystallite.
Don't get me wrong, the Crystalite is a great motor, but don't ask about "cheap" if that is the way you want to go.
There is a limit of how much power you can safely run on the frt. and a 9C @ 48V/22A is pretty much at it.

 

[malibudude]

The mxus still has a 36v controller. Not 48.
Isn't that an issue?

 

[motomech]

No, not at all. The 36V controllers are rated to about 60V. The LVC will be too low, but that doesn't matter because your Ping has it's own cut-off.
But you still don't understand what I saying.
Ask Cell_ man to sell you just the motor and wheel and use the stuff you already have, it's the same stuff!
Maybe $200 shipped.

 

[malibudude]

I follow. That's way cheaper than $625 from ebikes.

 

[motomech]

Yeah and they are good runners. People run a lot more volts though those. If you really got to fast, you can piggy-back like 12V later on your Ping for 60V or at least 30 mph[search 9C, same motor]. You can up the volts on the frt. ,[that's speed], but not so much Amps. That's more like torque, which tends to twist the motor in the forks.
If you can save some money on the motor wheel, you can spend it on other things you need to go fast.
It's like hot caRs, get the chasis right, then build the motor.

 

[malibudude]

I really appreciate all of the feedback.

My goals with the bike are to commute instead of relying on public transporation as well as to get some exercise and be outdoors. Going fast isn't my goal. Getting to and from work reliably is the most important goal. With the 36v system when it was working was fine but after riding at 48v going ~40-45k was just awesome for the short period that it was working.

I wonder if my motor can be fixed. I paid something like $500 for it. I don't mind spending the money as long as I know I'm getting something of quality that will last.

By the way, I need to have disc mounts on the hub since my forks only support disc brakes. The pictures don't show it, but it say it's there. I've written to them so I'll wait to hear back.

 

[motomech]

Yeah, but if you are commuting, you don't want to poke along.

I have the same motor and I looked at it to see if I could get it apart. Not easy, a special tool would need to be made, but it would be easier than a rear where the screw-on covers tend to self-tighten. I figured I could do it with some persuasion from a flame-wrench.
But, what's the point, no parts are available, which hall sensor and from whom?
Not worth it. Once again, you could buy the exact same motor from Cell_man for a couple of bills. At least I think he would sell just the motor/wheel. The whole kit is $240, shipped to the States.

You payed too much buting from Amped, but so did I

 

[malibudude]

We should chat. I could give you a pretty good story about my tubed battery that also failed.

I just emailed cell man (http://www.emissions-free.com/) so we'll see what he says.

I think I messed up by using the wrong controller. When I was using my 36v tube battery my controller failed. They shipped me a replacement (the small looking controller) with the wrong connections. Took almost 3 weeks to receive it. So I ordered a 2nd, figured it's good to have a backup and they sent me the larger looking controller. They said it was more effecient or something like that. I used that controller until my next incident. Battery kept tripping. Long story short...battery is toast.

Ordered the 48 battery...I think I should have used the smaller controller with my 48v battery. I don't know if that's what caused the problem. I checked for excessive heat but didn't feel anything.

Anyhow so now I've got 2 controllers from amped (small/large), however, it's not clear what they're really capable of doing.

As for choosing a motor, should I go with the direct drive or geared. I know you said DD, but why not the geared? I think dd makes more sense for me because there is very little clearance for a disc brake on the geared system. I had to grind down my caliper to clear the spokes on the motor.

 

[malibudude]

I decided to go with amped bikes because I thought I was getting a complete system that would last me. I knew it was a little on the high side, but thought it was worth spending a little extra for the piece of mind knowing that it was a thoroughly tested system. That didn't work out for me.
Dealer stopped selling the product in Toronto/Canada.

Tube battery given to me had the wrong fuse. I never opened the thing...Apparently a cell is bad and they can't repair it.

 

[motomech]

Those tubed batteries had so little capacity, many had problems with them. It probably was some sort of glitch during those battery/controller combos that damaged the motor. Perhaps the Hall sensor was partialy damaged when the tube battery was cutting out and it went kaput later.
It's possible that the geared motor could be run senseless, but you wouldn't like it that way, it wouldn't be as smooth. Johnrobholmes[member and owner of Holmes Hobbies} tried it that way and didn't like it. Maybe I'll take it off your hands to play around with[and anything else left over, for some $$, of course].
I like the geared motor because I just fart around[retired]and like the stealthy look. If that is not a concern, I think the DD would be better for day to day commuting. I think Dogman would agree. I also think that the motor will clear the caliper. Isn't there some technical drawing at the Amped site? Paul[Cell_man would know, but I think the geared is actually wider at the critical point[but don't quote me].
I actually bought my kit from Hightekbikes, same kit, but better motor connector and support, IMO.
Cell_man wasn't around yet when I bought mine.
The 22 A controller would be perfect for the DD motor.
Let us know what Paul says, he's busy[so it might be a little while until he gets back to you, but has a great rep. here.

PS MY second choice for a motor would be the 350W frt. Mac, also from Cell_man. Even though it's rated 350W, it's considerably more powerful than the mini. More expensive too. Neptronix did his girlfriend's bike with one and it turned out nice. Pretty fast on 48V, over 30 mph, I think. More caution needed to mount up frt.

 

[malibudude]

just did a quick ebay search and came across this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Amped-500-Watt-36-Volt-Electric-Front-Hub-Motor-/150557304959?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230dea287f#ht_500wt_1377

If I got this at a deal, might not be such a bad buy. I could run this at 48v and start to ride again.

 

[motomech]

Yup, good luck.