Air Rivet Gun For Solid Rivets Question

[rg12]

I want to order this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32997986675.html

I would like to use it with M3 flat head solid rivets (copper) with my compressor.

First of all, the seller doesn't know shiz about the product so here I am again...

I want to know what kind of bit/die/tool head I need for flat head solid m3 rivets and also, what is common for placing on the back side of the rivet to give it something to get "knocked" against? a hammer head maybe?

 

[Electroddy]

While a hammer head would work, a bucking bar is the proper tool. If you are in the US, the best places for this kind of riveting tools are Aircraft Spruce or Wicks Aircraft supply.

 

[rg12]

While a hammer head would work, a bucking bar is the proper tool. If you are in the US, the best places for this kind of riveting tools are Aircraft Spruce or Wicks Aircraft supply.

Thanks alot
Do you have any idea on the tool head thing?

 

[alpine44]

I am just working on an airplane restoration and bucked a couple hundred rivets last week.

The tips that go in the rivet gun are called rivet sets. These go against the factory formed head of the rivet and need to be the right size/shape for domed rivet heads. For flat, countersunk rivets you would use the set that looks like the end of a ball peen hammer.

The cylindrical shank of the rivet is mushroomed, or bucked, with a bucking bar. The contact surface of a bucking bar is flat and the bars differ in shape to gain access in the nooks and crannies of airplanes. You can probably use a hammer head as suggested.

If you countersink the side of the work piece where the cylindrical shank comes out of and you have the rivet cut to the right lengths, then you can get a double flush rivet, which does not protrude beyond either surface if done right.

Practice plenty on scrap metal before working on the real thing. Rivets are cheap. Once you get in the 'groove' it's actually fun to assemble stuff with rivets. Starting at page 4-15 of this publication you are going to find more details about proper riveting.

 

[rg12]

I am just working on an airplane restoration and bucked a couple hundred rivets last week.

The tips that go in the rivet gun are called rivet sets. These go against the factory formed head of the rivet and need to be the right size/shape for domed rivet heads. For flat, countersunk rivets you would use the set that looks like the end of a ball peen hammer.

The cylindrical shank of the rivet is mushroomed, or bucked, with a bucking bar. The contact surface of a bucking bar is flat and the bars differ in shape to gain access in the nooks and crannies of airplanes. You can probably use a hammer head as suggested.

If you countersink the side of the work piece where the cylindrical shank comes out of and you have the rivet cut to the right lengths, then you can get a double flush rivet, which does not protrude beyond either surface if done right.

Practice plenty on scrap metal before working on the real thing. Rivets are cheap. Once you get in the 'groove' it's actually fun to assemble stuff with rivets. Starting at page 4-15 of this publication you are going to find more details about proper riveting.

You are a huge help!

I'm intrigued with the double flush rivet idea as that is exactly what I need!
Which "tool head" is needed for this? is this done with a flat head rivet?
Will any of those do the job?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-Air-R...sh=item28930f03d3:g:PT0AAOSwgaZep6PA&LH_BIN=1
I don't understand what I need from the top and what I need from the bottom + which kind of rivet I need for the double flush rivet?

 

[rg12]

I am just working on an airplane restoration and bucked a couple hundred rivets last week.

The tips that go in the rivet gun are called rivet sets. These go against the factory formed head of the rivet and need to be the right size/shape for domed rivet heads. For flat, countersunk rivets you would use the set that looks like the end of a ball peen hammer.

The cylindrical shank of the rivet is mushroomed, or bucked, with a bucking bar. The contact surface of a bucking bar is flat and the bars differ in shape to gain access in the nooks and crannies of airplanes. You can probably use a hammer head as suggested.

If you countersink the side of the work piece where the cylindrical shank comes out of and you have the rivet cut to the right lengths, then you can get a double flush rivet, which does not protrude beyond either surface if done right.

Practice plenty on scrap metal before working on the real thing. Rivets are cheap. Once you get in the 'groove' it's actually fun to assemble stuff with rivets. Starting at page 4-15 of this publication you are going to find more details about proper riveting.

Oh, now that I think about it I'm attaching two pieces of 0.8mm thick copper which probably is too thin for flush/double flush riveting, am I right?

 

[Hillhater]

Yes , 0.8mm sheet is too thin for countersunk/ flush rivets...unless you are into “micro” riveting as used on scale models.
Flat head..wide head...is your best option.

 

[Balmorhea]

Oh, now that I think about it I'm attaching two pieces of 0.8mm thick copper which probably is too thin for flush/double flush riveting, am I right?

Yes.

Given that the material is both thin and soft, I'd skip the rivet gun and use a Knipex parallel jaw pliers to squish the rivets.

 

[rg12]

Oh, now that I think about it I'm attaching two pieces of 0.8mm thick copper which probably is too thin for flush/double flush riveting, am I right?

Yes.

Given that the material is both thin and soft, I'd skip the rivet gun and use a Knipex parallel jaw pliers to squish the rivets.

This will not be enough for solid rivets...

 

[Balmorhea]

Oh, now that I think about it I'm attaching two pieces of 0.8mm thick copper which probably is too thin for flush/double flush riveting, am I right?

Yes.

Given that the material is both thin and soft, I'd skip the rivet gun and use a Knipex parallel jaw pliers to squish the rivets.

This will not be enough for solid rivets...

It’s way more than enough for rivets that are small enough to make sense for joining .030” copper. I’m certain I could set 1/8” diameter solid copper rivets with a Knipex.

 

[rg12]

Oh, now that I think about it I'm attaching two pieces of 0.8mm thick copper which probably is too thin for flush/double flush riveting, am I right?

Yes.

Given that the material is both thin and soft, I'd skip the rivet gun and use a Knipex parallel jaw pliers to squish the rivets.

This will not be enough for solid rivets...

It’s way more than enough for rivets that are small enough to make sense for joining .030” copper. I’m certain I could set 1/8” diameter solid copper rivets with a Knipex.

I doubt it but I just ordered and will try and see.
Probably a hammer will solve it if not.

 

[Balmorhea]

I doubt it but I just ordered and will try and see.
Probably a hammer will solve it if not.

If for whatever reason you decide not to use a Knipex pliers to set rivets, you’ll come up with a hundred other uses for it. It’s my favorite tool for crimping cable tips in the shop, but it’s also my favorite “none of the above” tool by far. Tweaking front derailleurs, straightening bent whatevers, and (yes) tightening up big rivets on old-fashioned riveted brake levers. And it’s a capable wrench for fastener sizes that don’t correspond to the available tools.

 

[rg12]

I doubt it but I just ordered and will try and see.
Probably a hammer will solve it if not.

If for whatever reason you decide not to use a Knipex pliers to set rivets, you’ll come up with a hundred other uses for it. It’s my favorite tool for crimping cable tips in the shop, but it’s also my favorite “none of the above” tool by far. Tweaking front derailleurs, straightening bent whatevers, and (yes) tightening up big rivets on old-fashioned riveted brake levers. And it’s a capable wrench for fastener sizes that don’t correspond to the available tools.

I usually like to have the exact tool needed for the job, especially for crimping and stick with torque specs etc but yeah, sometimes you run into some ancient tech stuff that just doesn't match any tool you have so you just MacGyver it :lol: