slaphappygamer
1 kW
I'll try my best to convey the work I've done over the last 3 years of work on my bike. I've been writing and rewriting this for the last few weeks. I'll be honest, it's a bit hazy as to when I first added the 48V 12V dc converter, but I'm trying my best here. 
I purchased a Ride1Up 700 Series bike in September 2021. The bike fits me well and operated just fine. This bike was on my short list. I knew nothing about what I wanted in an ebike. I hadn't ridden a bike in years and I didn't already have one. I did about 5-6 months of research before I made the purchase of this ebike. I told myself to wait until the warranty is up before I start changing things around. I only "probed" the bike and exposed the controller at the bottom of the downtube to learn what I have and what goes where. Part of the reason I went with Ride1Up was the ability to change the number of PAS levels, percent of motor power per step, and other parameters I didn't quite understand....at the time. Price was another reason, as well as their online support documents. I was able to get video instructions of most things including a wiring diagram for the controller and I could see that it was a 22a Lishui controller in the downtube. Fully potted no access to anything on the board. I also checked out the custom firmware threads. I have had custom firmware on a few game consoles, so I know I would want that. The display was a KD218. I've noticed that the settings of the PAS levels topped out at 18A. I couldn't adjust this any further. I wanted full access to the power to help with some of the 12-16% grades on my commute route.
Here was the original controller.
8 months (and lots of research) later, I got brave and replaced the thumb throttle. I hated the fact that, from a stop, I couldn't signal with my left arm and take off with the leftside thumb throttle at the same time for obvious reasons. I installed this throttle and placed it on the right side. You can see in the in the following pictures.
Next, I added lights. My bike only came with a simple running tail light. I didn't know I wanted an active brake light like on our RadRunner Plus. I found this light kit and wired it in using the headlight plug on the original controller as the 48v source. To do this I simply unplugged my existing headlight and plugged (after verifying polarity) this kit in. Wired this way, I still have to activate the 48v headlight source by holding the "+" button. No biggie, I just kept the light kit's headlight button on. I also had to follow what the product description stated "Why after connect, my brake light always on? Ans: Your brake cable is reversed, please just switch two cable of your brake lever plug". Everything worked fine after I followed that advice. Except the brake light was constantly on, so I used a 48v-12v dc converter. I fed it from the headlight plug to power the lights.
Then I got these front turn signals and spliced them in to the rear turn signal wires. I also wired in the white light by tapping into my headlight wires. This way I can turn on my headlight and these would also light up. I mounted the front turn signal lights, with these brackets, to the stanchions. Wasn't my favorite placement, but they fit. I had to lockout the fork more so the brackets don't impact the crown. Front and rear turn signals!
I later added a key switch because I didn't like the idea that anyone could just power on the bike and run the motor. Sure, there is a password feature on the stock display, but even before you input the password, the throttle can run the motor. For the key switch, I 3way spliced the ground (black) lead between the controller and display. I took the batt+ (red) from the controller and connected that to the green of the key switch. The red of the key switch went to the batt+ (red) towards the display. I moved the converter and paralleled it after the key switch, on the batt+ (the red is now a 3way splice) and ground (the ground is now a 4way splice). This worked great!
I then I added a wireless phone charger. I really didn't need this since my commute to work is only 15 minutes. I really just wanted to a reason. I was already docking my phone to the handlebars. I figured "why not charge my phone too?". So now I can flip the key and my lights and charger is active. Then I can power on the display and run the bike.
I came across some birthday money and replaced the controller and display. I first verified fitment of a new controller by cutting packaging foam to size and placing that in the cavity below the battery inside the downtube, where the original controller was. IT FIT! I ordered a 25A KT controller with the LCD8H from Aliexpress. I went with the version that has JST connectors. I fished the display cable down the downtube. There is a cavity on the high side of the downtube that all the wires feed through. Then, I had to swap the signal (green) and ground (black) wires of the throttle connection at the controller. I repinned the JST plug on the controller side so if I actually needed warranty or support, I could just reconnect the original Lishui controller easier.
I didn't realize it at the time, but those front turn signals are only rated for 12v. The right front light burnt (shorted?) out and fried the daughter board on the KT controller. Lesson learned! I desoldered the daughterboard from the motherboard and moved the lights to the run off of the converter, as well as, replacing the defective turn indicator.
I ended up replacing the motor phase wire bullet connectors with an MT60 connector. The cable exiting the motor is a Z9 plug and there was an extension cable along the chainstay and in to the downtube. I also cut about 6-8 inches off of that extension cable. I remembered reading a post around here about a guy that repairs ebikes and sees people coming in with a "rats nest" of wire in the downtube (that's where my wires are!). He stated that the phase wires would be burned up there much of the time. I wanted to get ahead of that. I noticed that my phase wires wouldn't get as hot after I shortened them and used the MT60 plug. I think one of the original bullet connectors had a weak connection. Weak connections create heat. When I stripped back the extension cable's jacket I saw the phase wires were "stressed" only at the hard bends in the phase wires (because there was too much wire stuffed in the downtube). I can just see some copper through the insulation. My motor cable is nice and straight now, with no hard bends.
Here were my settings.
You'll notice the handlebars changed from black to blue. I changed the handlebars to get more rise up front and to have a more comfortable ride. I was a bit hunched forward before, but it's quite relaxed now. I went with blue to have my bike easily identifiable if it ever got stolen. I bought this handlebar. Also got this stem since my other stem started creaking right at the adjustment bolt with no way, I could see, to fix it. Since I was increasing the rise, I also had to make a new hydraulic hose for the front brake to extend it up. I've never done this work before so it was youtube training time again for me. Came out fine, made a flush cut on the hose and the barb seated nicely, no leaks. I realized it late, but the new stem was 5mm taller. With the original spacers, I was short and couldn't fill the gap. Work stopped and ordered some blue spacers to match. That solved my issue. The handlebars were too wide so I trimmed 19mm from both sides. This brought me from 720mm width to 682mm. That was the shortest I could go. Luckily that was all I needed. My hand spacing feels much better and shoulders don't tire as easily. I used a hacksaw and a parktool-ish pipe cutter that I borrowed from my buddy. Hacksaw to the handlebar was very tiring. I used my right arm for one and my left for the other. Got to mix it up!
This all worked great....for the time. I was very happy with this set up. I think I've had like this for almost 2 years. I then started itching to see what else I could do. I have been looking at the Cycle Analyst and Baserunner set ups. Actually, I've been looking at various setups with them for some time and it all just felt out of my league. I have been on the fence about upgrading. It's expensive. Their controller is much smaller and way more configurable than the 25A KT controller I have been running.
I knew this would be a big undertaking for me to get everything configured properly. I came across @GRIN LEVEL in another thread and found out that he had the same set up I was looking to do. Actually turned out he has the same motor that I have. His bike was different, but similar components. I was pretty stoked to find all the info he had to offer. I knew, for certain, that I could get this whole system working well. Just need to be patient.
I've since now got the Cycle Analyst and Baserunner installed. I pretty much started over with this bike. Removed the 48v-12v converter, phone charger, front turn signals, even disconnected the key switch. The Baserunner plugged in right to my motor cable. I no longer needed the motor extension cable that I put the MT60 on AND I can place the Baserunner in the downtube. I have been monitoring the temp, with an external sensor glued to the side of my KT controller, in that area and I never saw higher than 50c. I wasn't sure how hot the Baserunner would get though so I bought the tube mount bracket as well. I have it on the Baserunner as a "heatsink". I'm not sure if I even need it but still, it is smaller than my KT controller so I'm still saving space. "Why not have it?". I was able to fish the Cycle Analyst WP cable done through the tray in the downtube. That plug measured 10mm in diameter and the tray was roughly 13mm. Tight fit, with all the other wire, but it worked and the cable length was just enough.
I also purchased the 24 magnet PAS from Grin and installed that. I wasn't sure if my existing 12 magnet PAS was working on 5v or 12v. Sure I could've tested to find out, but I figured 24 magnets would give me better response anyway. The cable was a bit short so I made an extension with some cat5 I had laying around and this kit. I really like JST plugs, they are super easy to work with and repin if needed. I had to swap the throttle signal and ground wires. I don't remember the reason, but I changed the plug on the CA side. The Ebrakes were backfed through the downtube, to stay connected to the rear light, then back up to the CA. I flipped the CA stem mounting bracket upside down to install the CA facing me more and staying off the handlebars and to miss the handlebar extension I have the key switch mounted to. The MP Switch went all the way to the left side of the handlebar.
I've now installed the key switch between the BaseRunner and Cycle Analyst. I've sheathed the CA WP8 cable near the head tube. There is a small cavity above the internal battery as well, and used the GRD (black) and 3way spliced the black on the key switch there. I then got the batt+ (red) from the BaseRunner and spliced that to the green of the key switch. The red on the key switch went to the batt+ (red) towards the Cycle Analyst. Now I flip the kley and the Cycle Analyst powers up.
Tuning the bike was/is the hardest part, even still, I don't think I'm done yet. I went through the auto routine and used settings that @GRIN LEVEL was generous enough to share. Thanks dude! Motor stuttering was very bad and after a few weeks or searching and reading, I found out the the issue was related to the Feedback Bandwidth Tuning. These values were not perfect for my setup. I set Current Regulator Bandwidth to 110, PLL Bandwidth set to 200, and PLL Damping to 2.8. Now the bike doesn't stutter and I take off smoothly. I also turned off sensorless start for halls only.
Here is the bike today.
Al bit more info about my riding.
I weight 160lbs. With cargo, probably 180-190lbs.
Hard to say how many miles exactly. I’ve changed from the stock system, to the KT system, and finally the Grin system. I’d guess, in the last 2 years, 2500 to 3000ish miles. I really only commute to and from work. I won’t ride if it’s raining.
All my riding is street a very narrow 3 bike lane and there are potholes. I take one paved path that leads to a wooden bridge and I rarely go over 25mph. The bridge is probably 80’ and I go about 10-15 mph there. Probably average 18-20mph along my total 3.8 mile trip from home to work. Close to 8 miles a day.
I use Tannus armor and these tubes with the stock 27.5 x 2.4 Schwable Super MotoX tires. I maintain 25psi. That was the recommended pressure. I’m trying to find where it said that. With the stock tubes, without the armor, I kept them at 50psi. The ride is dampened, but the potholes are less jarring. I avoid most of them, but I hit a few now and again.
I purchased a Ride1Up 700 Series bike in September 2021. The bike fits me well and operated just fine. This bike was on my short list. I knew nothing about what I wanted in an ebike. I hadn't ridden a bike in years and I didn't already have one. I did about 5-6 months of research before I made the purchase of this ebike. I told myself to wait until the warranty is up before I start changing things around. I only "probed" the bike and exposed the controller at the bottom of the downtube to learn what I have and what goes where. Part of the reason I went with Ride1Up was the ability to change the number of PAS levels, percent of motor power per step, and other parameters I didn't quite understand....at the time. Price was another reason, as well as their online support documents. I was able to get video instructions of most things including a wiring diagram for the controller and I could see that it was a 22a Lishui controller in the downtube. Fully potted no access to anything on the board. I also checked out the custom firmware threads. I have had custom firmware on a few game consoles, so I know I would want that. The display was a KD218. I've noticed that the settings of the PAS levels topped out at 18A. I couldn't adjust this any further. I wanted full access to the power to help with some of the 12-16% grades on my commute route.
Here was the original controller.
8 months (and lots of research) later, I got brave and replaced the thumb throttle. I hated the fact that, from a stop, I couldn't signal with my left arm and take off with the leftside thumb throttle at the same time for obvious reasons. I installed this throttle and placed it on the right side. You can see in the in the following pictures.
Next, I added lights. My bike only came with a simple running tail light. I didn't know I wanted an active brake light like on our RadRunner Plus. I found this light kit and wired it in using the headlight plug on the original controller as the 48v source. To do this I simply unplugged my existing headlight and plugged (after verifying polarity) this kit in. Wired this way, I still have to activate the 48v headlight source by holding the "+" button. No biggie, I just kept the light kit's headlight button on. I also had to follow what the product description stated "Why after connect, my brake light always on? Ans: Your brake cable is reversed, please just switch two cable of your brake lever plug". Everything worked fine after I followed that advice. Except the brake light was constantly on, so I used a 48v-12v dc converter. I fed it from the headlight plug to power the lights.
Then I got these front turn signals and spliced them in to the rear turn signal wires. I also wired in the white light by tapping into my headlight wires. This way I can turn on my headlight and these would also light up. I mounted the front turn signal lights, with these brackets, to the stanchions. Wasn't my favorite placement, but they fit. I had to lockout the fork more so the brackets don't impact the crown. Front and rear turn signals!
I later added a key switch because I didn't like the idea that anyone could just power on the bike and run the motor. Sure, there is a password feature on the stock display, but even before you input the password, the throttle can run the motor. For the key switch, I 3way spliced the ground (black) lead between the controller and display. I took the batt+ (red) from the controller and connected that to the green of the key switch. The red of the key switch went to the batt+ (red) towards the display. I moved the converter and paralleled it after the key switch, on the batt+ (the red is now a 3way splice) and ground (the ground is now a 4way splice). This worked great!
I then I added a wireless phone charger. I really didn't need this since my commute to work is only 15 minutes. I really just wanted to a reason. I was already docking my phone to the handlebars. I figured "why not charge my phone too?". So now I can flip the key and my lights and charger is active. Then I can power on the display and run the bike.
I came across some birthday money and replaced the controller and display. I first verified fitment of a new controller by cutting packaging foam to size and placing that in the cavity below the battery inside the downtube, where the original controller was. IT FIT! I ordered a 25A KT controller with the LCD8H from Aliexpress. I went with the version that has JST connectors. I fished the display cable down the downtube. There is a cavity on the high side of the downtube that all the wires feed through. Then, I had to swap the signal (green) and ground (black) wires of the throttle connection at the controller. I repinned the JST plug on the controller side so if I actually needed warranty or support, I could just reconnect the original Lishui controller easier.
I didn't realize it at the time, but those front turn signals are only rated for 12v. The right front light burnt (shorted?) out and fried the daughter board on the KT controller. Lesson learned! I desoldered the daughterboard from the motherboard and moved the lights to the run off of the converter, as well as, replacing the defective turn indicator.
I ended up replacing the motor phase wire bullet connectors with an MT60 connector. The cable exiting the motor is a Z9 plug and there was an extension cable along the chainstay and in to the downtube. I also cut about 6-8 inches off of that extension cable. I remembered reading a post around here about a guy that repairs ebikes and sees people coming in with a "rats nest" of wire in the downtube (that's where my wires are!). He stated that the phase wires would be burned up there much of the time. I wanted to get ahead of that. I noticed that my phase wires wouldn't get as hot after I shortened them and used the MT60 plug. I think one of the original bullet connectors had a weak connection. Weak connections create heat. When I stripped back the extension cable's jacket I saw the phase wires were "stressed" only at the hard bends in the phase wires (because there was too much wire stuffed in the downtube). I can just see some copper through the insulation. My motor cable is nice and straight now, with no hard bends.
Here were my settings.
You'll notice the handlebars changed from black to blue. I changed the handlebars to get more rise up front and to have a more comfortable ride. I was a bit hunched forward before, but it's quite relaxed now. I went with blue to have my bike easily identifiable if it ever got stolen. I bought this handlebar. Also got this stem since my other stem started creaking right at the adjustment bolt with no way, I could see, to fix it. Since I was increasing the rise, I also had to make a new hydraulic hose for the front brake to extend it up. I've never done this work before so it was youtube training time again for me. Came out fine, made a flush cut on the hose and the barb seated nicely, no leaks. I realized it late, but the new stem was 5mm taller. With the original spacers, I was short and couldn't fill the gap. Work stopped and ordered some blue spacers to match. That solved my issue. The handlebars were too wide so I trimmed 19mm from both sides. This brought me from 720mm width to 682mm. That was the shortest I could go. Luckily that was all I needed. My hand spacing feels much better and shoulders don't tire as easily. I used a hacksaw and a parktool-ish pipe cutter that I borrowed from my buddy. Hacksaw to the handlebar was very tiring. I used my right arm for one and my left for the other. Got to mix it up!
This all worked great....for the time. I was very happy with this set up. I think I've had like this for almost 2 years. I then started itching to see what else I could do. I have been looking at the Cycle Analyst and Baserunner set ups. Actually, I've been looking at various setups with them for some time and it all just felt out of my league. I have been on the fence about upgrading. It's expensive. Their controller is much smaller and way more configurable than the 25A KT controller I have been running.
I knew this would be a big undertaking for me to get everything configured properly. I came across @GRIN LEVEL in another thread and found out that he had the same set up I was looking to do. Actually turned out he has the same motor that I have. His bike was different, but similar components. I was pretty stoked to find all the info he had to offer. I knew, for certain, that I could get this whole system working well. Just need to be patient.
I've since now got the Cycle Analyst and Baserunner installed. I pretty much started over with this bike. Removed the 48v-12v converter, phone charger, front turn signals, even disconnected the key switch. The Baserunner plugged in right to my motor cable. I no longer needed the motor extension cable that I put the MT60 on AND I can place the Baserunner in the downtube. I have been monitoring the temp, with an external sensor glued to the side of my KT controller, in that area and I never saw higher than 50c. I wasn't sure how hot the Baserunner would get though so I bought the tube mount bracket as well. I have it on the Baserunner as a "heatsink". I'm not sure if I even need it but still, it is smaller than my KT controller so I'm still saving space. "Why not have it?". I was able to fish the Cycle Analyst WP cable done through the tray in the downtube. That plug measured 10mm in diameter and the tray was roughly 13mm. Tight fit, with all the other wire, but it worked and the cable length was just enough.
I also purchased the 24 magnet PAS from Grin and installed that. I wasn't sure if my existing 12 magnet PAS was working on 5v or 12v. Sure I could've tested to find out, but I figured 24 magnets would give me better response anyway. The cable was a bit short so I made an extension with some cat5 I had laying around and this kit. I really like JST plugs, they are super easy to work with and repin if needed. I had to swap the throttle signal and ground wires. I don't remember the reason, but I changed the plug on the CA side. The Ebrakes were backfed through the downtube, to stay connected to the rear light, then back up to the CA. I flipped the CA stem mounting bracket upside down to install the CA facing me more and staying off the handlebars and to miss the handlebar extension I have the key switch mounted to. The MP Switch went all the way to the left side of the handlebar.
I've now installed the key switch between the BaseRunner and Cycle Analyst. I've sheathed the CA WP8 cable near the head tube. There is a small cavity above the internal battery as well, and used the GRD (black) and 3way spliced the black on the key switch there. I then got the batt+ (red) from the BaseRunner and spliced that to the green of the key switch. The red on the key switch went to the batt+ (red) towards the Cycle Analyst. Now I flip the kley and the Cycle Analyst powers up.
Tuning the bike was/is the hardest part, even still, I don't think I'm done yet. I went through the auto routine and used settings that @GRIN LEVEL was generous enough to share. Thanks dude! Motor stuttering was very bad and after a few weeks or searching and reading, I found out the the issue was related to the Feedback Bandwidth Tuning. These values were not perfect for my setup. I set Current Regulator Bandwidth to 110, PLL Bandwidth set to 200, and PLL Damping to 2.8. Now the bike doesn't stutter and I take off smoothly. I also turned off sensorless start for halls only.
Here is the bike today.
Al bit more info about my riding.
I weight 160lbs. With cargo, probably 180-190lbs.
Hard to say how many miles exactly. I’ve changed from the stock system, to the KT system, and finally the Grin system. I’d guess, in the last 2 years, 2500 to 3000ish miles. I really only commute to and from work. I won’t ride if it’s raining.
All my riding is street a very narrow 3 bike lane and there are potholes. I take one paved path that leads to a wooden bridge and I rarely go over 25mph. The bridge is probably 80’ and I go about 10-15 mph there. Probably average 18-20mph along my total 3.8 mile trip from home to work. Close to 8 miles a day.
I use Tannus armor and these tubes with the stock 27.5 x 2.4 Schwable Super MotoX tires. I maintain 25psi. That was the recommended pressure. I’m trying to find where it said that. With the stock tubes, without the armor, I kept them at 50psi. The ride is dampened, but the potholes are less jarring. I avoid most of them, but I hit a few now and again.
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