dnmun
1 PW
why not post up some build pictures of your trike? does it really have a single tiller and the chain drives the left rear wheel through 3 cranks?
Anyone use SLA's still? Need distance and speed.
- Thread starter iwasbeingsarcastic
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dogman dan
1 PW
Well, first off, I am an Idiot for running a front hub at all, in some circles. But I agree, that trike looks pretty hard to flip. But we do see the occasional post, something like, I broke the forks on my bike, I don't understand, they were good suspension forks with thick dropouts and I was only running 72v through them for a steep hill.
On ordinaly bikes, I consider 48v with say 30 amp controllers to be about the safe limit, and strong steel forks not designed for quick release hubs.
On ordinaly bikes, I consider 48v with say 30 amp controllers to be about the safe limit, and strong steel forks not designed for quick release hubs.
vanilla ice
1 MW
If I were running a front hub I'd weld the non-wired fork end closed at the end of the slot. Its not like you couldn't get the thing in there by angling it and sliding it in.. heck I just might do that to some rear dropouts. Its not like you take wheels out everyday, and besides, there should be enough flex to allow removal.
Back to the OP, I've traveled 20 miles max on 12ah times 24v sla. But that was with mad pedalling and a 20mph max speed.
Back to the OP, I've traveled 20 miles max on 12ah times 24v sla. But that was with mad pedalling and a 20mph max speed.
dogman dan
1 PW
Thats a great idea, welding just one dropout shut. With time, we will see somebody start making a good fork with a steel dropout and nice suspension by attaching the steel dropout to the alloy fork. If they build it we will come.
vanilla ice
1 MW
I guess it would not allow the wheel to get out unless the slot was extremely long.. It must not be too hard to come up with some piece you could screw on to secure the drop ends though..
vanilla ice
1 MW
I'm not sure how much this type of design would help, I'm no engineer. But the angle would get around the having to have an unusably long slot to get the wheel out. The way I understand front hub failures is the fork ends are slowly pried open, right? The dark area represents the joined ends..
Anyway sorry to get OT in an SLA thread!
Anyway sorry to get OT in an SLA thread!
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gerhardt
100 mW
dnmun said:
Hi Dnmun,
Thanks for your interest in the Safety Delta E-Trike. I attached a top view photo that will help answer your questions. There is a LH and RH tiller. They move fore and aft, not in rotation. I used a fore and aft underseat design to keep the body as narrow as possible to improve the aerodynamics and efficiency. Each tiller has a control rod connected to the front fork. The steering is very smooth and you can turn the trike with one hand. If one control rod fails you can still operate the steering with the second rod.
The chain drive has 3 crank rings (52-42-30) driving a 7 sprocket cluster on the mid jackshaft. The jackshaft drives a Shimano Nexus Redline 8 speed hub in the LH rear wheel. The 168 speeds have a gear inch range of 15 to 200. The wide gear range is nice for hauling heavy loads up steep hills or cruising at the design speed of 35 mph. With normal operation I just shift the Nexus gear hub and leave the front chain lined up straight. I am designing the tubular chassis to also accept a gear reduced electric motor to drive the RH rear wheel in case you do not want to use a hub motor. I will also use a gear hub in the RH rear wheel. Deraileurs don't have the durability that I want.
Don Gerhardt
dogman dan
1 PW
Seriously nice! And yeah, though a front hub would work, a chain drive of some kind would be the way to go with that one, stokemonkey type, or whatever. I assume a fairing is in the futrue for this baby?
On the dropout idea, If just one of the dropouts was welded shut, it wouldn't take that long of a slot to be able to angle the axle enough to drop the other end of the axle out of it's dropout. I like the idea of creating a bolt on bottom piece to the dropout. You could weld a nut to the front and the rear of the dropout, allowing a flat bar piece to be bolted to the dropout, closing the bottom, and strenthening it. I have also wondered about using the cheap steel forks, cutting the bottoms off with the dropout, and somehow attaching them to a good suspension fork in a bolt on arrangement. You couldn't weld steel bolts or nuts to an aluminum fork.
On the dropout idea, If just one of the dropouts was welded shut, it wouldn't take that long of a slot to be able to angle the axle enough to drop the other end of the axle out of it's dropout. I like the idea of creating a bolt on bottom piece to the dropout. You could weld a nut to the front and the rear of the dropout, allowing a flat bar piece to be bolted to the dropout, closing the bottom, and strenthening it. I have also wondered about using the cheap steel forks, cutting the bottoms off with the dropout, and somehow attaching them to a good suspension fork in a bolt on arrangement. You couldn't weld steel bolts or nuts to an aluminum fork.
gerhardt
100 mW
Hi Dogman,
Thanks for the comments on the Safety E-Trike. I agree with your comment that a stong steel fork should be used with a hub motor. I also recomment that torque arms that can retain the axle always be used on both sides of the fork with a hub motor. I use a Redline Monster Chromoly high strength steel BMX fork. It has a 7 mm thick steel web to mount the axle. I drill and tap a hole in the web to accept a metric fastener to retain the steel torque arm. I use a mill to create a slightly undersize retangular hole for the axle. This creates a tight fit to the axle.
You asked about a body. Yes, the trike will have an aerodynamic carbon fiber body with preinflated air bags. It will have a retractable roof so the vehicle can be operated in the rain. I eventually plan to conduct front, side, and rear crash impact tests. This should be a first for an electric bike or trike. The trike will have small lean wheels in the front that will limit the lean angle. I have already conducted a roll over test. The roll bar prevents the trike from rolling over more than 90 degrees. The trike slides on the side impact tubes without injury to the operator. I initially planned to put plastic motorcycle style sliders on the side tubes to protect the future body. My latest thinking is to use rubber bumbers that will ack as brakes instead of sliders to help stop the vehicle.
I woulld appreciate help from the group in locating a gear motor that I can test to drive the RH rear wheel. My basic specifications are:
1. 1600 watts to maintain 20 mph on a 10% grade and 35 mph on a level road
2. 50,000 mile life without maintenance
3. Under $100.00 cost for OEM quantities
Thanks
Don Gerhardt
Thanks for the comments on the Safety E-Trike. I agree with your comment that a stong steel fork should be used with a hub motor. I also recomment that torque arms that can retain the axle always be used on both sides of the fork with a hub motor. I use a Redline Monster Chromoly high strength steel BMX fork. It has a 7 mm thick steel web to mount the axle. I drill and tap a hole in the web to accept a metric fastener to retain the steel torque arm. I use a mill to create a slightly undersize retangular hole for the axle. This creates a tight fit to the axle.
You asked about a body. Yes, the trike will have an aerodynamic carbon fiber body with preinflated air bags. It will have a retractable roof so the vehicle can be operated in the rain. I eventually plan to conduct front, side, and rear crash impact tests. This should be a first for an electric bike or trike. The trike will have small lean wheels in the front that will limit the lean angle. I have already conducted a roll over test. The roll bar prevents the trike from rolling over more than 90 degrees. The trike slides on the side impact tubes without injury to the operator. I initially planned to put plastic motorcycle style sliders on the side tubes to protect the future body. My latest thinking is to use rubber bumbers that will ack as brakes instead of sliders to help stop the vehicle.
I woulld appreciate help from the group in locating a gear motor that I can test to drive the RH rear wheel. My basic specifications are:
1. 1600 watts to maintain 20 mph on a 10% grade and 35 mph on a level road
2. 50,000 mile life without maintenance
3. Under $100.00 cost for OEM quantities
Thanks
Don Gerhardt
