Atypical Battery Build Which LACKS a Traditional BMS.

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Oct 17, 2009
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Republic of Ireland.
Hi.

I am trying to build a battery pack for frequent use, and dare I say it, mis-use. :shock:

This pack will be dropped into a ruck-sack which is then used in the usual fashion. It will have to deal with frequent handling, the risk of being dropped, frequent disassembly at a sub-pack level, etc.

The pack in question will be small, 4Ah minimum, 8Ah maximum, but high voltage, 100v, 32s, LiFePo4.

Considering its high-voltage, high discharge and relatively low-capacity nature, the pack will find itself being often removed, charged, balanced and re-installed.

The idea here is to conceive a build which does not rely on traditional Signa-Lab/Fechter-Goodrum-Hecker/Cammy/Ping BMS formats.

The idea is to retain flexibility, limit the volume of wiring, platforms, plastic bits and pieces etc which can get in the way and get broken or snagged so easily.

At the same time, the pack will need to be capable of rapid charging, rapid discharging, effective balancing and with some form of LVC protection.

This battery is intended for my BMX build, which will be more of a drag bike than a cruiser. The nature of "dragging" means high-amperage discharges, a perfect environment for cells getting out of balance or forcing a runt cell into a steep decline.

Ideally the pack will be so somebody can travel to a deserted car park, BMX park etc, let rip, then return to their car and charge the pack off the 12v cigarette lighter socket.

Here is my plan thus far:

Take 4 A123 cells {either 18650 or 26650}, glue them in parallel, weld them, then solder on some shim. This creates a 1s4p unit, the most basic unit of the build.

Take 8 of these completed strips, and join them in series, making an 8s4p block, the second most basic unit. 4 of these units will be made up.

Take each 8s4p sub-pack and terminate them, +/- spade ends, heavy duty.
DSCN5000.jpg


Then solder on one of these:
ac-8pt_8s_jst-xh_pigtail_1.jpg


Connect each 8s4p sub-pack up in series to make a 32s4p final pack.

I did this on an 8s1p experimental strip this morning.

DSCN4996.jpg


These pigtails have 9 wires, 8 black and 1 red. I wired the red to the first positive terminal, the next black to the negative terminal of that same cell, and then a black wire, in turn, to every other negative terminal, finishing on the last negative terminal.

I then hooked up my multimeter and found that I could measure the individual voltage of each cell in series, as so:

DSCN4999.jpg


The small probes are just bits of solder I wedged in so I could take readings.

This pigtail, would it fit into the Turnigy 8s Accucell charger??

Are there any 8s LVC monitors that I could plug into it??? Would what Geoff57 was selling be of use in this regard? For those not familiar with Geoff57's product, here is the link http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=21695

Finally, I need some sort of foam insulation. The sub-packs are wrapped together but left in such a way as their series connectors can be broken apart in a hurry. That is to say, the battery can be quickly broken down into a collection of 8s4p units without actually changing its physical form, with the 4 sub-packs still physically joined {with duct-tape, insulation} but electrically disconnected.

When the time comes to charge, I would hope to break the battery down into its 4 constituent sub-packs, I might either do a quick current-limiting charge with a Meanwell Limiting charger and then do a balance charge on the Turnigy 8s Accucell, or I might just use the Accucell to begin with though I appreciate that this would be slower.

If anyone has any suggestions they would like to make about any of this then I would be most grateful. I will be going ahead with the build using some circumspect 18650 A123, just to get the feel of the build and use it to work out any wrinkles in my methodology.
 
I use these.
http://cgi.ebay.de/1-8S-Lipo-Battery-Tester-Low-Voltage-Buzzer-Alarm-RC-1S-/220740495655?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item336528a927
While they don't provide a LVC function, they are loud enough to hear while riding, ale the LV alarm is adjustable in 0.1V increments.
They seem to be bad quality though. One of two units shown incorrect voltages on 2 cells after 5 months use.

I also have the 8s accucel. If the pigtail is JST-XH with 0.1" pitch, it should drop in easily. You will need 2 additional wires because the charger will not work with balance wiring only. It will require both balance and discharge leads to be connected.
 
HMM...

So none of the benefits of lipo.
And none of the benefits of a BMS'd and sheltered lifepo4 pack.

*scratches head*
 
You probly already read all this then like I did a few times. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2498 I have four packs and am building another. First two had the 2.2 Fechter, Goodrum BMS ballancing wires and a charger hooked to a unit I put together. Everything still werqs great and it's nearly idiot proof. Nice not to have to worry about them as they now belong to my brother. Next two packs I built one 48 like the first two and one 60V for current use have no balance wires. Once I had all the weak cells 4-5 from these packs were weeded out I seldom have to ballance though I check them every couple of weeks and hand ballance them, what a pain, now and then when needed.
My controller drops me out at 40+ volts or so on my 16s2p and 18S2p packs so mine do not get to badly abused and stay well balanced. Three of the four packs are near 2 years old and werqing well. When building the packs I first hot glued the cases together and wrapped them with packing tape. I tried to keep as many of the stock tabs on as possible and used the tabs cut from defunct batteries to solder to the existing tabs of other packs to build up to the voltage I wanted where possible else I used 12G noodle wire. Three of the four packs are near 2 years old and werqing well. My packs are tightly housed in 3/16ths ABS on three sides when on the bike but I carry another in a well padded bag and try not to bang it around or drop it cuz they will not take that kind abuse and live long.

Balancing wires
A123pac1.jpg


No balancing wires
48Vdewalt.jpg


As usual my third try is the best. Was much easier to use the 28V packs rather than the 36 when building.
56vdewaltpack1.jpg
 
neptronix said:
HMM...

So none of the benefits of lipo.
And none of the benefits of a BMS'd and sheltered lifepo4 pack.

*scratches head*

What, like this:
ScratchHead.gif


I want to KEEP the properties of a BMS whilst AVOIDING a great big 12" by 4" lump of plastic with little diodes and led's and resistors that can get chipped off by kids or noobs who don't know what it is or how much it cost or how many hours AndyH spent soldering it up or how many lies were told to get it into the country under the noses of the Customs Officers.....
smiley-laughing021.gif


Thus: it has balancing taps for balancing, it breaks-down quickly into 4 sub-packs for current-limiting fast charges or Turningy-based balance charges, it has circuit boards for LVC control, and HVC control is managed by supervising the charging routines, which are themselves not too time-consuming thanks to the general low Ah capacity of the pack.

Using well-balanced, capacity matched A123's, I should hazard that this is mission possible, and A123 most definitely has quite a few of the advantages of LiPo. Considering that children will be using this in a Ruck-sack based pack, I feel that LiPo is not a solution anyways.

The purpose of the thread was to determine how this would all be achieved, and then to document that here for the benefit of other users.

Thanks. :D
 
I don't see why you can't do that.

I would strongly recommend at least on-board LVC protection.
Even better would be both LVC and HVC protection so you can bulk charge with a Meanwell or something like that.
You can still bulk charge without HVC protection as long as you stop the charge early enough so there is no chance a cell group goes over. If you bulk charge to something like 80%, you can finish the charge with the balancers once in a while. Since the balancers are starting with nearly full cells, it should finish fairly quickly even at lower currents.

The problem I see is if you need to break apart the pack every time you want to balance, you will have connector problems and the risk of misconnection. It might be better to permanently wire the main connections and balance the groups one at a time when needed.
 
fechter said:
I don't see why you can't do that.

I would strongly recommend at least on-board LVC protection.
Even better would be both LVC and HVC protection so you can bulk charge with a Meanwell or something like that.
You can still bulk charge without HVC protection as long as you stop the charge early enough so there is no chance a cell group goes over. If you bulk charge to something like 80%, you can finish the charge with the balancers once in a while. Since the balancers are starting with nearly full cells, it should finish fairly quickly even at lower currents.

The problem I see is if you need to break apart the pack every time you want to balance, you will have connector problems and the risk of misconnection. It might be better to permanently wire the main connections and balance the groups one at a time when needed.

Hi Fechter, thanks for your input.

Yes, there is always a risk with repetitive connections, one is exhaustion of the connector which would be a long-term issue.

Is there any particular LVC/HVC , individual or combi, that you personally would recommend? I like the boards on TPPacks but 12s and 6s seem to be their preferred formats.

Thanks.
 
What are you using for a tab welder? I thought about doing something similar and just using a cell log with alarm to warn when it hits LVC. You'll end up with something that looks a lot like these A123 motorcycle packs, only 8s instead of 4s. http://a123rc.com/goods-306-A123+132V9200mAH+Motorcycle+Start+Battery+12V92AH-4S4P.html
 
Hi Jim.

The welder is a Capacitace-Discharge Welder, I bought the caps and a good pal made the unit :D

There is a massive thread about it in this very forum {Ebike technical}

Thanks.
 
Well you can tape or shrink wrap small sub packs and just build an enclosure to house them with compartments to fit each pack up to the size you want it to be. You can even make compartments that nest or connect together. You definitely are starting with some bullet proof batts. I have charged mine to 4.2V banged them around and discharged them to .8V per battery and have had to replace only half a dozen batts out of over a hundred in use. There many ways to do things. It all boils down to the size of the main pack and how you are going to carry it. Sounds like you already know that so good luck.
 
The Mighty Volt said:
Is there any particular LVC/HVC , individual or combi, that you personally would recommend? I like the boards on TPPacks but 12s and 6s seem to be their preferred formats.

Thanks.
With any of those boards, you can use fewer channels to match your pack. If you are building them, just don't populate the channels you don't need.

I don't think we have a ready built solution for this kind of setup yet. HVC/LVC boards can interface to the motor controller to shut down on LVC, but right now we don't have a stand-alone HVC charge cutoff. There are a few ways this could be done, depending on your charger, and most of them are fairly simple.
 
simplest way would be to buy a prebuilt BMS. the $40 is the equivalent of 12 minutes of your time if you work for $200/hr.

i decided to charge myself that much now when i work on stuff, my performance has improved dramatically since i raised my salary.
 
dnmun said:
simplest way would be to buy a prebuilt BMS. the $40 is the equivalent of 12 minutes of your time if you work for $200/hr.

i decided to charge myself that much now when i work on stuff, my performance has improved dramatically since i raised my salary.

Please direct me to this $40 fail proof BMS. I'm going a similar route as the MightyVolt, but with 7p and building it into the structure of the bike, so I never have to disco or remove anything. Just plug the charge in and occasionally the balance tap connector. If I can build a 100% trustworthy bms into it for under $100, I'm game. Otherwise I'll be the BMS, which is made easy and pretty risk free with 50-60% typical DOD's.
 
What failure mode is most common in Chinese bms?

:arrow: Fails the first use
or
:arrow: Fails after a few months of normal use
or
:arrow: Fails when you do something you shouldn't - like a wire short or too much amperage
 
auraslip said:
What failure mode is most common in Chinese bms?

:arrow: Fails the first use
or
:arrow: Fails after a few months of normal use
or
:arrow: Fails when you do something you shouldn't - like a wire short or too much amperage

I cannot honestly answer that question as I have never used one for any extended period of time.

My guess would be #3
 
I've seen a few people from EValbums do this and other places. Seems like a great idea to me.

Benefits of A123
-Super stability
-Great chemistry.

I think the majority of the benefits remain. The downsides of cost, volume, and to a lesser extent weight, are not ok for me right now- but if I was planning for something larger and had more money, a123 sounds great. I like the idea of having such a cool battery :p.
 
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