Bafang Screen

[theo59310]

Hi to the community,

Four months ago, I bought a BAFANG M620 motorized bike with two 48V batteries on Alibaba. For more details, here's the product link: Hezzo 52v1000w Bafang M620 1000w Mid Drive Electric Bike Dual Batteries 38ah Range 160km Offroad Fat Tire Ebike Hybrid Bicycle - Buy Drop Shipping Full Suspension Hydraulic Disc Brake Shimano 9 Speed Fast Mountain Electric Bike,Factory Wholesale Fast 1000w High Power Rear Hub Motor Pedal Assist Full Suspension Off Road Mountain Electric Bike For Adult,Drop Shipping Centre Motor 26"off Road Fat Tire Long Range Lithium Battery Free Shipping 9 Gear Transmissions Fast Electric Bike Product on Alibaba.com

Nevertheless, I'm having a persistent problem with the DCP18 screen on my bike. For the second time in two months, my screen has simply stopped working. The situation occurs when I use only the throttle, at full throttle, then abruptly release the throttle, and the screen immediately cuts out.

I've subsequently noticed that if I hold down the start button while depressing the accelerator pedal, the engine starts up again, but the screen remains black. As soon as I release the start button, everything stops again.

The last time this problem occurred, I changed the screen for a new one, and the bike resumed normal operation. However, I'm worried that this problem will reappear, so I'm looking for advice on a more permanent solution, or recommendations for an expert who can help me solve this problem. I live in the north of France.

Thank you in advance for your support and suggestions!

Best regards,

 

[calab]

A permanent solution is to not using any display at all, use a simple generic sensorless/sensored controller, using the sensorless part means no hall sensors, which is just more wires for the halls, meaning more can go wrong hence displays have lots and lots of extra goodies for you to smile upon, Error Codes.

Solution for you is to buy a cheap controller as mentioned that fits your voltage and discharge requirements. Otherwise you fix what you got. Look at the dirt cheap connectors. If you have no game plan moving forward to fix what you got, I would snip the connectors all off and hard-wire it with sodlering iron and solder, using connectors for the battery. Yours being a mid drive, but for a hub motor I'd use XT60, XT90, 5.5mm bullet connectors for a battery connection.

What 2 or 3 features of the display do you like the most?
Speedometer - You can use a Cyclocomputer, includes distance travelled and time.
The voltage display is nice but not accurate, over time you get a feel for where your battery is at the more you ride it. You can wire up a voltage display lcd for total volts. Some used the RC voltage device to look at the branch voltage where its like 3.40v as an example times 5 readings, then use two of thos RC voltage devices. Like what hobbyking sells.
PAS - generics got pas, maybe not as easy to switch between effort levels 1-5.