Battery click sound, now showing far too low of voltage.

ihategeeks

100 W
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
111
Today I received a brand new 24volt battery from ping, got it hooked up in series along with 2 diodes 48v ping with less than 100 cycles on it.
Everything worked great. Reading 81 volts on the CA. Right where it should based on the measurements before hooking everything up. Let the wheel ride free and grinned at all of this new found power :twisted:

So I take everything apart, I unhook every single connection.
I start arranging things to be hooked up on the bike and nothing is connected to anything else at all.

I take the voltage at the 24 volt battery. Fine
I take the voltage at the 48 volt battery. CLICK.

Wtf is CLICK?!?!? Just one nice solid click. Like if you flip a switch in a fuse box.
The 48 volt battery now reads 21 volts. On the charger the battery doesn't charge and the charger light stays green on the charger.
No lights on the BMS.
No heat or puffing on the battery 1 hour later.

On a scale of 1 to frocked, how frocked am I?
 
0.1 frocked

Have you a multimeter? messure on the BMS the voltage of each cell and post here result.

You can try to disassemble the battery to the cells and try with a RC charger to charge them but slowly 0.1C and in stages like 15% full wait than 30%...
This is only a amateurish advise i have no clue if its good and you can use them anymore.
But i guess there RI is now high like a 1000 cycled.
 
Jolly Jumper said:
0.1 frocked

You can try to disassemble the battery to the cells and try with a RC charger to charge them but slowly 0.1C and in stages like 15% full wait than 30%...
This is only a amateurish advise i have no clue if its good and you can use them anymore.
But i guess there RI is now high like a 1000 cycled.

Do you have any idea what happened to cause this click sound?
and for my 100 cycle battery to have 1000 cycle resistance and needing a complete tear down and manual charge, I would consider that totally frocked. :cry:
I was literally 1 hour from making a run at the 40 mph club. Now I got a 24volt battery that won't even get my controller moving, and a bricked 48?

F.M.L.
 
ihategeeks said:
Yes i have a multimeter, that is how I am taking readings , the battery won't even power the Cycle Analyst, I'll need to look up how to measure each cell.

The ping batteries have BMS's mounted inside of their heat-shrinked shell. The only way to tell the individual cell voltages would be to carefully open the heat-shrink sleeve and try to access the wires leading to the BMS since this would probably be the easiest place to monitor on these types of packs. The click seems really strange. One possibility is a cap or FET popped on the BMS board, but they usually don't click. Its more like a little pop and or fizzle. If this was a pack someone modified, they may have placed some type of circuit breaker in line with the pack, which if this was the case it should be easy to correct, but you will need to find it first. A couple questions:

Where did you purchase the pack?
Have you separated the 24V and 48V packs since this has happened and tested with them isolated from each other?
Did anything get warm when this happened?
Is it a $10 Multi-meter you are using to check the voltage? "I have seen very inexpensive multimeters fail and have very low impedance at the terminals"
Also need to be careful not to measure in resistance or current modes, because this could also cause a large current draw.

If you have a photo of the pack that may help too.

Best of Luck,
Ed
 
I never had my pings click. Sounds to me like something must have sparked someplace.

Total guess, it could have been the bms, or the actual short could be inside the wiring in the pack, and could have damaged the bms perhaps? Maybe a cut wire to the bms?

Start with unplugging the bms, and see if you have voltage on all 16 cells. You have 16 wires to the bms, but the 17th wire, the negative to cell number one is the big main negative wire to the bms.
 
edventure said:
ihategeeks said:
Yes i have a multimeter, that is how I am taking readings , the battery won't even power the Cycle Analyst, I'll need to look up how to measure each cell.

The ping batteries have BMS's mounted inside of their heat-shrinked shell. The only way to tell the individual cell voltages would be to carefully open the heat-shrink sleeve and try to access the wires leading to the BMS since this would probably be the easiest place to monitor on these types of packs. The click seems really strange. One possibility is a cap or FET popped on the BMS board, but they usually don't click. Its more like a little pop and or fizzle. If this was a pack someone modified, they may have placed some type of circuit breaker in line with the pack, which if this was the case it should be easy to correct, but you will need to find it first. A couple questions:
The sound could have be characterized as a pop, it just sounded more like a click to me. Also, when I removed the battery from the case I noticed the BMS has a mild scent to it.

Where did you purchase the pack?
From Ping directly in April 2013 48v15ah V2.5.
There are no modifications that am aware of.

Have you separated the 24V and 48V packs since this has happened and tested with them isolated from each other?
That is when this happened. I already had the packs separated. I was testing them both individually so I could see if the diodes were pulling volts when in the circuit.
I was getting the individual voltages to record any difference.

Did anything get warm when this happened?
No.


Is it a $10 Multi-meter you are using to check the voltage? "I have seen very inexpensive multimeters fail and have very low impedance at the terminals"
Also need to be careful not to measure in resistance or current modes, because this could also cause a large current draw.
Meter is a southwire 10030S purchased from lowes for 20+ something.
Meter was set to 600 V DC.
Meter was reading the 24 volt battery with no problems and got the same as the Cycle Analyst.
 
ihategeeks said:
edventure said:
ihategeeks said:
Yes i have a multimeter, that is how I am taking readings , the battery won't even power the Cycle Analyst, I'll need to look up how to measure each cell.

The ping batteries have BMS's mounted inside of their heat-shrinked shell. The only way to tell the individual cell voltages would be to carefully open the heat-shrink sleeve and try to access the wires leading to the BMS since this would probably be the easiest place to monitor on these types of packs. The click seems really strange. One possibility is a cap or FET popped on the BMS board, but they usually don't click. Its more like a little pop and or fizzle. If this was a pack someone modified, they may have placed some type of circuit breaker in line with the pack, which if this was the case it should be easy to correct, but you will need to find it first. A couple questions:
The sound could have be characterized as a pop, it just sounded more like a click to me. Also, when I removed the battery from the case I noticed the BMS has a mild scent to it. The scent was probably something on the BMS burning out. It could have also been a shorting wire causing the insulation to burn, but my first guess would be a component on the BMS.

Where did you purchase the pack?
From Ping directly in April 2013 48v15ah V2.5. Probably not modified, this is why I had asked this question.
There are no modifications that am aware of.

Have you separated the 24V and 48V packs since this has happened and tested with them isolated from each other?
That is when this happened. I already had the packs separated. I was testing them both individually so I could see if the diodes were pulling volts when in the circuit.
I was getting the individual voltages to record any difference. Not sure of the order here, but if the sound and smell came while the batteries were still together or even while separating them, if there was a problem with the 48V pack, "low cell" it could have been drawing an excessive amount of current through one or both of the diodes, so it is possible the smell came from the diodes. This does would not mean the diodes caused the problem, but a problem on the 48V pack may have caused them to fail. I have two 48V 15Ah packs on my bike, but decided not to place any diodes between them based on the fact that the diodes will actually cause a small voltage drop across them that will result in almost a volt lower at the motor/controller, "0.7V" Additionally this is just another component that can fail. Many people recommend them as if one pack has an issue it won't bring the other pack down with it, but I am taking my chances. Also, when I connected the pack I made sure both packs were charged to very similar voltages. In my case my two packs were only of by 15mV. The greater the difference in voltage when you connect them the greater the current flow between them. If there is a couple volt difference, you will get a spark when they are connected and if there is greater than a couple volt difference it could blow the diodes. The diodes should be of a high current value, to avoid this happening maybe someone else could recommend what they use, but if the packs were similar when connected this should not matter. As Dogman had said have you tried unplugging the BMS and measuring the voltage again? Also, are you measuring the voltage after the diodes? If you are try the voltage before the diodes too, maybe a stupid question, but I have to ask. If you have a drawing even a hand drawing of how they are connected that could help or a photo. You can also test the diodes with an ohm meter, with the negative lead on the striped side, "cathode" of the diode and the positive lead of the meter on the non striped lead you should get some high possibly 1M ohm resistance, but if you reverse the leads the resistance should be infinite. If they are measuring very low resistance in both directions they are probably bad. I would recommend to remove the diodes from the circuit before testing since there is always a danger of shorting something when in the circuit.

Did anything get warm when this happened?
No. That's one good sign.

I have a few other things I would like to say but my wife is going to kill me if I keep going, i have three kids and we are heading out the door. i will check back in later to see if I can still offer anything. Again, good luck I know this can be frustrating. Just keep a level head and you will get it figured out.
Is it a $10 Multi-meter you are using to check the voltage? "I have seen very inexpensive multimeters fail and have very low impedance at the terminals"
Also need to be careful not to measure in resistance or current modes, because this could also cause a large current draw.
Meter is a southwire 10030S purchased from lowes for 20+ something. Meter probably not an issue, but I just figured I would ask.
Meter was set to 600 V DC.
Meter was reading the 24 volt battery with no problems and got the same as the Cycle Analyst.
 
dnmun said:
there are no pictures of how you wired this up and where you put the unneeded diodes.

That is because nothing went wrong when the batteries were in series connected to the diodes. My Cycle Analyst read 81 volts with everything working fine and it spun the motor for a few minutes with no issue.
This was the circuit. The bottom diode is drawn in the wrong direction in this image link, but I corrected it in actual circuit. http://i.imgur.com/Md9pC8n.jpg


I took everything completely apart. I disconnected every thing from every other thing. There is no picture to show you of what it looked like when things went pop, because everything was disconnected. There was no load, there was no charger, it was just me, a volt meter, and the discharge leads of the 48volt battery all by itself. The reason I did this was for 2 reasons, I wanted to record the initial voltages of each battery so I would know how much voltage the diodes were sapping . I did this because Dnmun(you) said diodes weren't needed and would just sap voltage. I wanted to check how much without measuring at the diode itself. So I blame you for all of this :p

The second reason I took everything apart was just so I could figure out how to organize it on the bike.
 
so you did figure out that the diodes are not needed after all? if you post up a picture of the batteries connected in series and the BMS connections visible and indicate where the click sound comes from we can do better at guessing.
 
The scent was probably something on the BMS burning out. It could have also been a shorting wire causing the insulation to burn, but my first guess would be a component on the BMS.

Is there a process to troubleshoot just the BMS itself and see if it works or not?

Not sure of the order here, but if the sound and smell came while the batteries were still together or even while separating them, if there was a problem with the 48V pack, "low cell" it could have been drawing an excessive amount of current through one or both of the diodes, so it is possible the smell came from the diodes. This does would not mean the diodes caused the problem, but a problem on the 48V pack may have caused them to fail. I have two 48V 15Ah packs on my bike, but decided not to place any diodes between them based on the fact that the diodes will actually cause a small voltage drop across them that will result in almost a volt lower at the motor/controller, "0.7V" Additionally this is just another component that can fail. Many people recommend them as if one pack has an issue it won't bring the other pack down with it, but I am taking my chances. Also, when I connected the pack I made sure both packs were charged to very similar voltages. In my case my two packs were only of by 15mV. The greater the difference in voltage when you connect them the greater the current flow between them. If there is a couple volt difference, you will get a spark when they are connected and if there is greater than a couple volt difference it could blow the diodes. The diodes should be of a high current value, to avoid this happening maybe someone else could recommend what they use, but if the packs were similar when connected this should not matter. As Dogman had said have you tried unplugging the BMS and measuring the voltage again? Also, are you measuring the voltage after the diodes? If you are try the voltage before the diodes too, maybe a stupid question, but I have to ask. If you have a drawing even a hand drawing of how they are connected that could help or a photo. You can also test the diodes with an ohm meter, with the negative lead on the striped side, "cathode" of the diode and the positive lead of the meter on the non striped lead you should get some high possibly 1M ohm resistance, but if you reverse the leads the resistance should be infinite. If they are measuring very low resistance in both directions they are probably bad. I would recommend to remove the diodes from the circuit before testing since there is always a danger of shorting something when in the circuit.
The sound and smell came from just the 48v battery isolated from everything else, no diode or battery or charger or load was connected to it. I put in the leads of the volt meter, and I got the pop. I then took the battery out of its case and smelled the bms (my first assumption was the BMS died) there was a smell coming from the bms area and no where else. I even smelled the other batteries BMS in another room as a control, just to make sure I was actually smelling something. :lol:

I measured voltage of the battery at the discharge wires, it says 21 volts.
I measured each cell on the "sense wires?" one at a time. 3.32 for every single one. I only measured 14 of them though. Since I am not sure if i should bridge between 12 and 13 (different wires) or how to measure the very last cell since I'm out of contacts at that point.

Did anything get warm when this happened?
No. That's one good sign.

I have a few other things I would like to say but my wife is going to kill me if I keep going, i have three kids and we are heading out the door. i will check back in later to see if I can still offer anything. Again, good luck I know this can be frustrating. Just keep a level head and you will get it figured out.
Is it a $10 Multi-meter you are using to check the voltage? "I have seen very inexpensive multimeters fail and have very low impedance at the terminals"
Also need to be careful not to measure in resistance or current modes, because this could also cause a large current draw.
Meter is a southwire 10030S purchased from lowes for 20+ something. Meter probably not an issue, but I just figured I would ask.
Meter was set to 600 V DC.
Meter was reading the 24 volt battery with no problems and got the same as the Cycle Analyst.[/quote][/quote]
 
dnmun said:
so you did figure out that the diodes are not needed after all? if you post up a picture of the batteries connected in series and the BMS connections visible and indicate where the click sound comes from we can do better at guessing.

The sound came from the 48v battery. I am 100% certain that this is the location of the sound. Unless that sound was an environmental coincidence.
Again, it was the only thing I was testing when it happened The battery was not in series circuit or connected to any diodes, loads, chargers, anything.

I never got to make a determination on the diodes because I never got to finish taking my initial measurements.
 
sounds like it is an open connection and you are hearing the spark when current flows and overheats something that then moves. the diode will have a data sheet and you can determine the power loss from that. the forward bias increases with current so you will have to use the current you are delivering to the controller for that. then power = IV(forward)
 
Also, the 3.32 I am measuring on the BMS is consistent with the 53.1 volts my CA was measuring before I did any of this. THe battery was not HOC and 53 is a normal reading when I let the CA drain slowly for a day.

I don't understand how I am getting just 21 volts off the discharge wires and can't power the CA anymore with the battery if the cells are all reporting 3.32 :? (well, 14 of them at least, not sure how to measure two of them)

-------------12 on this wire----------
1 3.32
2 3.32
3 3.32
4 3.32
5 3.32
6 3.32
7 3.32
8 3.32
9 3.32
10 3.32
11 3.32
12 ?????? (how do I measure?)
----------------------------------------

------------4 on this wire----------------------
13 3.32
14 3.32
15 3.32
16 ????? (how do I measure?)
-----------------------------------------
 
dnmun said:
HOC? i doubt if the battery is high on cocaine.

what is the gate voltage on the discharge mosfets in the battery that is dead? this is a ping v2.5 signalab?


Hoc = hot off charger
Yes v2.5 signalab.
Not sure what , where the discharge MOSFETs are or what gate voltage is. : (
 
It sounds like the BMS blew, but there is no reason it should blow from putting a voltmeter on it. If the meter probes were in the Amps sockets, that could do it. Static electricity could possibly do it too.
The diodes look right in the drawing (if you reverse the bottom one). They are there to prevent the full series voltage from going across the BMS if it trips.
 
ihategeeks said:
Also, the 3.32 I am measuring on the BMS is consistent with the 53.1 volts my CA was measuring before I did any of this. THe battery was not HOC and 53 is a normal reading when I let the CA drain slowly for a day.

I don't understand how I am getting just 21 volts off the discharge wires and can't power the CA anymore with the battery if the cells are all reporting 3.32 :? (well, 14 of them at least, not sure how to measure two of them)

-------------12 on this wire----------
1 3.32
2 3.32
3 3.32
4 3.32
5 3.32
6 3.32
7 3.32
8 3.32
9 3.32
10 3.32
11 3.32
12 ?????? (how do I measure?)
----------------------------------------

------------4 on this wire----------------------
13 3.32
14 3.32
15 3.32
16 ????? (how do I measure?)
-----------------------------------------

I agree with Dnmun you probably didn't need the diodes. I started thinking about it as I was heading out the door, and the only reason you put diodes in is when you are wiring two batteries in parallel, if they are in series there typically is no need. That would be my next stupid question, but is there any chance you wired these two packs in parallel at some point. You said they were reading 81V which is where they should be in series, but I just thought I would pose the question. If this did happen it would end up drawing a lot of current from the higher volt battery to the lower volt one, but something would definitely blow with this difference. I would be curious to know how the diodes were wired in with the battery, even a hand drawing. I checked the online manual for Ping battery http://www.pingbattery.com/usrguide/Wiring Guide V2.5.pdf and they do show diodes on a series connection. From what I can tell from the drawing they purpose is for back EMF that is generated by the motor. This diodes would block the back EMF and are acting as check valves in the circuit. Still don't think they are needed, but then again what do I know. My other question would be, is there any chance you had wired one of these diodes in reverse? This would have dire consequences if you did, most likely blow the diode, but could cause damage elsewhere. To measure the voltage there should be a common lead that your meters black lead is attached for all the cell readings and then you should be able to just take your positive lead and scope the other 16 leads. Its hard to say without seeing the actual setup. I will check back later to see if you have posted some pics.

Best,
Ed
 
edventure said:
ihategeeks said:
Also, the 3.32 I am measuring on the BMS is consistent with the 53.1 volts my CA was measuring before I did any of this. THe battery was not HOC and 53 is a normal reading when I let the CA drain slowly for a day.

I don't understand how I am getting just 21 volts off the discharge wires and can't power the CA anymore with the battery if the cells are all reporting 3.32 :? (well, 14 of them at least, not sure how to measure two of them)

-------------12 on this wire----------
1 3.32
2 3.32
3 3.32
4 3.32
5 3.32
6 3.32
7 3.32
8 3.32
9 3.32
10 3.32
11 3.32
12 ?????? (how do I measure?)
----------------------------------------

------------4 on this wire----------------------
13 3.32
14 3.32
15 3.32
16 ????? (how do I measure?)
-----------------------------------------

I agree with Dnmun you probably didn't need the diodes. I started thinking about it as I was heading out the door, and the only reason you put diodes in is when you are wiring two batteries in parallel, if they are in series there typically is no need. That would be my next stupid question, but is there any chance you wired these two packs in parallel at some point. You said they were reading 81V which is where they should be in series, but I just thought I would pose the question. If this did happen it would end up drawing a lot of current from the higher volt battery to the lower volt one, but something would definitely blow with this difference. I would be curious to know how the diodes were wired in with the battery, even a hand drawing. I checked the online manual for Ping battery http://www.pingbattery.com/usrguide/Wiring Guide V2.5.pdf and they do show diodes on a series connection. From what I can tell from the drawing they purpose is for back EMF that is generated by the motor. This diodes would block the back EMF and are acting as check valves in the circuit. Still don't think they are needed, but then again what do I know. My other question would be, is there any chance you had wired one of these diodes in reverse? This would have dire consequences if you did, most likely blow the diode, but could cause damage elsewhere. To measure the voltage there should be a common lead that your meters black lead is attached for all the cell readings and then you should be able to just take your positive lead and scope the other 16 leads. Its hard to say without seeing the actual setup. I will check back later to see if you have posted some pics.

Best,
Ed
I do hope you can tell me which is the common lead I can use so I can record voltages for all 16 cells and confirm the battery is ok and just the BMS is the problem. So long as I don't know what cell 12 and 16 are showing I won't believe I'm off the hook for major damage.



Apologies for blurry pics ahead of time.
http://i.imgur.com/VHJgfzF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/efhW3pH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/j3eOLry.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zZEaCoq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PRAEQZz.jpg

Possible Damage here?
http://i.imgur.com/vedp9pv.jpg

The CA when everything was hooked up in series. I ran the motor a good solid 3 minutes at full throttle too. The diodes were connected in this circuit as shown in my drawing, everthing was linked with 10 gauge wire and 45 amp anderson, I don't want to rebuild the circuit and take a picture because I don't want to kill my other working battery by doing so. I will say, that I did everything right the first time, because I was well aware that reversing diodes or shorting the batteries was going to be a bad thing.
http://i.imgur.com/pGQnhag.jpg
 
I should point out this detail, which I failed to remember. When I was testing the discharge wires, the anderson connectors were right next to each other, clipped together. This put the leads milimeters away from each others. Perhaps I got an arc across my multimeter that caused a short?
 
ihategeeks said:
I should point out this detail, which I failed to remember. When I was testing the discharge wires, the anderson connectors were right next to each other, clipped together. This put the leads milimeters away from each others. Perhaps I got an arc across my multimeter that caused a short?

That would explain it, if that is the case. The BMS is supposed to trip before blowing up in the case of a short, but these things don't really switch fast enough to protect against a short reliably. You'd probably get a spark, but if the BMS drops fast enough, it might not be a really big spark.

I'll try to explain the diodes again; If you have two packs in series, each with a BMS, and one trips, the load will drop and try to place the full combined series voltage across the FETs in the BMS that tripped. This may be higher than the voltage rating of the FETs used, resulting in desctruction. By placing a reverse biased diode across the pack terminals, when one pack trips, the most voltage across the FETs will be that pack's voltage + about 0.7v for the diode. This helps protect the BMS FETs. Normally the diode does nothing. It only conducts when one pack trips.
 
Ok, so to be clear, I measured each of these sections and got the same voltage at every 14 points. To the left and right of each yellow line.
If someone could explain where I need to measure to get cells 15 and 16 using any of these images I would really appreciate it.
http://i.imgur.com/7GCW4rO.jpg

Then I took the BMS totally out of its shell to inspect what looked like burned PCB.
http://i.imgur.com/Cw7Wodk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SEOiQer.jpg
oxf8mJd.jpg

I'm no electrician, but that appears to be a pretty significant short , right?
http://i.imgur.com/oxf8mJd.jpg (in case the forum mangles the above image)
 
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