Bayliner Conversion

Thanks for the DC/DC converter post! I've been looking for one to drop from 60V to 7.4 volts which is what some high-end bicycle LED lamps run. I had zero luck until I stumbled on your build. If you find any hiccups with it please post.
 
got a 5k pot for cruise control
yellow is Positive
white is signal
blue is negative
controller shuts down as soon as i connect it
what am i doing wrong?


IMG_20220221_131753.jpg

went and looked at what i bought from amazon it said
linear rotary taper potentiometer for arduino
further down it said Type B
searched type B and audio pots came up

i see a guy on youtube used a 10k pot

https://youtu.be/sfkVtbx5yCQ?t=239

grins pas pot is 5k

wonder if i should try something like this one
https://www.amazon.ca/Rotary-Potentiometer-Panel-Variable-Invert/dp/B07FVVL7P4/ref=sr_1_31?crid=3PHZ7LSFZ5T8H&keywords=10k+potentiometer&qid=1645495220&sprefix=10k+potentiometer%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-31
 
wound up buying this 5k pot
https://www.amazon.ca/TWTADE-Potentiometer-Precision-Resistance-LA42DWQ-22-5K/dp/B08P8D382D/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=5k+potentiometer&qid=1646599225&sr=8-11

i parallel connected it to a thumb throttle
the controller wasnt beeping any error codes
tried the thumb throttle
nothing happened
tried the pot and at about the number 4 the motor started to work
thumb throttle starts at 0.82v
at about 2 on the pot dial i get a reading of 0.8v so i left it at 2 and tried the thumb throttle and it worked
so if i leave the pot at 0 on the dial the throttle wont work
poor man anti-theft device :D
 
waiting for a longer steering steering cable to show up to do a range test

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf_UhUUueiM
 
Do you go out boating all year round or are there times of the year that you commonly just dont go out due to maybe the winter months being not ideal water conditions?
 
where im moored right now its on the Fraser River, it drains most of BC so if there is flooding and mudslides going on theres too much debris floating down the river like trees, buildings and picnic tables :shock: to go out. A major river isnt the best thing for an electric boat but its tidal so i can go upriver with the tide. this year it froze over for a couple days around christmas so i had to go and chip the ice around the boat and then the boat behind me sank when it started to warm up around new years. we got it back up the same day and managed to save everything except the electronics.in the video, the boat behind me, you would never know it sank :lol:

IMG_20220104_095037378_HDR.jpg
 
i dont really want have to have a windows 10 laptop on my boat to run motor display
will one of these android tablets work

https://www.amazon.ca/qunyiCO-Y10-Quad-Core-Processor-Bluetooth/dp/B08CGSML8W/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=3PZS2BIPQCG2V&keywords=windows+10+tablet&qid=1652050028&sprefix=windows+10+tablet%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&smid=A3PYKV9S5O0OXZ&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQTlJRk1IMkE5TkZCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDQ2ODYxM045WE5DOFoyWExCUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg0OTI2MlMxNURNUFc1VkdBUiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

or those really cheap fire tabs

https://www.amazon.ca/fire-7-tablet/dp/B07JQP2C3X/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1XHAGSMPJJ1AP&keywords=windows+10+tablet&qid=1652050315&sprefix=windows+10+tablet%2Caps%2C278&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMlM4VUc3OEkzSUNUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDc4NTI0Qlk0MlM5VUQ1UVgmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDYzNzUwNFpPMTM3TDJYSk8xUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
 
Denzel Motors said:
If you want to make more soft throttle reaction:
1. please check this parameter first 1059 - its must be = 0 (speed / torque control)
2. Please check parameters 102F, 1032, 1035 - if value = 0.7 - put value = 1
102E-1036.jpg
Click to expand...

Alex. I picked up Panasonic Toughbook cf-19 mk7 with windows 10 on it. Downloaded the app and driveri get the ev-eca v2.2.1 screen but everything is at 0. Amps volts speed temp. If I go to com 3 the motor speed says 4153 and -23808. Everything else is 0 and no response. If I connect my home laptop to the motor everything works. Any ideas
 
I clicked on properties of the ev MCA v 2.2.1.
Ran the compatibility troubleshooter but it's in mode windows 8. There is no option to test it in windows 10. It has 95,98,XP,vista,7 and 8 but I'm running windows 10. How do I fix that ?
 
yesterday i was pushing the boat harder than normal going upriver near the bottom of a low tide, i just set the motor to 50amps/3500 watts and was doing 2.5 knots according to the fish finder. motor temp was a steady 57 C and controller around 40C. just as i was pulling back into the marina i melted the carbon fiber/pla shaft coupling and lost propulsion.

what happened was the laptop timed out and when i hit the space bar to turn it back on for some reason the temperature readings just froze and stopped working but showing an old temp reading
when i pulled the cowl off, the motor was so hot you could touch it only for half a second
looked up the continuous rating of the motor and its 3000 watts not 3500 watts

put on a spare shaft coupling and printed 2 more today out of nylon/cf from filaments.ca
supposed to be good to 167 C
filaments.ca

Heavy Duty Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament - 1.75mm

Heavy Duty Carbon Fiber Nylon 3D printer filament is one of our strongest 3D printing materials. Encompasses the attributes of industrial nylon and of carbon fiber. Buy online in Canada for the lowest prices.
filaments.ca filaments.ca
was trying to print at 270 C/70 C with the fans off for good layer adhesion but the Ender would only go upto 260 C/70 C. the couplings appear fine, seem solid but at 260C with the fans on i could snap the coupling in half and the lack of layer adhesion was obvious

i might just send the cad file off to be made out of aluminum or brass

i was out again today right at max river flow to do some testing and 3000 watts isnt enough for this boat at about 6500 pounds on a tidal river during freshet, i needed the 3500 watts to do 1.5 knots and the motor temp hit 72 C in a quarter mile

i think i need to sell this motor and build another one using the DA100

Induction motor DA100

Unique induction motor Denzel DA100. Max working temperature 150 degree C, Very high torque - 75 Nm (on shaft). High efficiency, Small current....
denzel.bike denzel.bike
it says it is rated for 5000 watts continuous which should be enough power to push upriver without overheating
i pretty much only need to be using the boat in the evening right now during the high slack tides so its not a big deal.
could make it into a shaft belt drive with a 3 to1 ratio
 
Dont make the same mistake twice !
Use a motor that is 2-3 times overrated for what you think you need….
As long as it is able to run in an efficient rpm range, it wont use any more (battery) power than a smaller motor at max output.
You do not want to be caught out with a lack of power in an emergency on water.
 
Hillhater said:
Dont make the same mistake twice !
Use a motor that is 2-3 times overrated for what you think you need….
As long as it is able to run in an efficient rpm range, it wont use any more (battery) power than a smaller motor at max output.
You do not want to be caught out with a lack of power in an emergency on water.
Click to expand...
I had long thought about putting electric propulsion on my sailboat. It was designed to have two 5hp gas engines each driving a separate prop. A prior owner replaced them with a single 27hp diesel driving a single offset prop. The diesel is in bad shape, and with just one prop it doesn't steer at low speeds.

Every possibility passed through my mind, at one time or another, but eventually I realized that a 5hp motor outputting 5hp and a 10hp motor outputting 5hp are both outputting 5hp.

There are differences in efficiency, and differences in weight, and differences in price. But with respect to range at any given speed the differences are minor.

Mine is a sailboat, so it doesn't take a lot to push it slowly, and nothing is going to make it fast. By my calculations, two 5hp motors would reach hull speed in flat water with no wind. But so would two 9.9hp motors, at half throttle. And they'd have a margin in case of emergency.

Though I don't see myself push hull speed often. Half speed means four times the range. And this is a sailboat, after all. The motors are only auxiliaries.
 
Hillhater said:
Dont make the same mistake twice !
Use a motor that is 2-3 times overrated for what you think you need….
As long as it is able to run in an efficient rpm range, it wont use any more (battery) power than a smaller motor at max output.
You do not want to be caught out with a lack of power in an emergency on water.
Click to expand...
ya when i bought this motor,the DA85, instead of the DA100 the price difference was miniscule but the DA100 weighed twice as much as the DA85 and wouldnt fit
i think the honda 25/da85 is a nice package for a lake/ocean or a 16ft runabout but not a river
i need to find a blown 50hp o/b and slap a DA100 in it
and like jdege said, if its not twin screw you need an outboard for slow tight maneuvering.
 
i should also mention, i got that dc/dc step down converter to go from 72v to 12v
my 12v house battery died/shorted and sucked down my motor battery to 60v
so i disconnected it and my 12v is just running off the dc/dc converter
whats weird is when i turn the 72v to the motor on, the spark that happens turns on my
Raymarine DragonFly 4 fishfinder on
that spark happens in the 72v system

something is passing through the dc/dc converter into the 12v system that the Raymarine is sensing as a signal to turn itself on
i think it even happened today when i turned on the 72v charger today

i wonder what i could hook upto the 12v bus bars to see whats happening
 
20230604_175755.jpg
 
no, youre not allowed to keep them here, just catch and release
melted another coupling last night at 80 C so i dropped anchor and a eulachon
put on the new nylon/cf coupling on to get home but im getting one machined asap waiting for a quote from hubs.com
and a local shop
my boy stood me up so i made a video to rub it in

 
jdege said:
I had long thought about putting electric propulsion on my sailboat. It was designed to have two 5hp gas engines each driving a separate prop. A prior owner replaced them with a single 27hp diesel driving a single offset prop. The diesel is in bad shape, and with just one prop it doesn't steer at low speeds.

Every possibility passed through my mind, at one time or another, but eventually I realized that a 5hp motor outputting 5hp and a 10hp motor outputting 5hp are both outputting 5hp.

There are differences in efficiency, and differences in weight, and differences in price. But with respect to range at any given speed the differences are minor.

Mine is a sailboat, so it doesn't take a lot to push it slowly, and nothing is going to make it fast. By my calculations, two 5hp motors would reach hull speed in flat water with no wind. But so would two 9.9hp motors, at half throttle. And they'd have a margin in case of emergency.

Though I don't see myself push hull speed often. Half speed means four times the range. And this is a sailboat, after all. The motors are only auxiliaries.
Click to expand...
"flat water with no wind."
The previous owner was smart and installed an engine to ensure he and everyone on board go home on time and in good order regardless of the wind and weather to the best of his ability including the money to go sailing.
Sailing a mill pond is calm and flat.
 
goatman said:
no, youre not allowed to keep them here, just catch and release
melted another coupling last night at 80 C so i dropped anchor and a eulachon
put on the new nylon/cf coupling on to get home but im getting one machined asap waiting for a quote from hubs.com
and a local shop
my boy stood me up so i made a video to rub it in

Click to expand...
"so i dropped anchor and a eulachon"
What?
How do you get to shore? Rowing? Is there no current ?
 
Stealth_Chopper said:
"so i dropped anchor and a eulachon"
What?
How do you get to shore? Rowing? Is there no current ?
Click to expand...
just put a new coupling on, its a simple 10 minute job and away you go.
went to a cnc shop and they said they couldnt do splines, have to try a gear shop that can do splines
i said ,what do you mean you cant do splines, all you need is a 3 or 4mm bit, its square with no taper
he said its not that simple and i said, yes it is, wtf is a cnc good for if it cant do a simple task like a round hole and a spline with a 4mm bit

have to see what the gear shops say but i think its smarter for me to just get the Masuter Pro CNC and slap the Makita router in it and make one myself. i want to make new suspension linkage out of aluminum for my begode master. i can get carbon fiber linkage but its $300 euros before shipping/duty/customs so $500 cad and i can see this coupling being $500 cad


was out this morning to my fishing hole with no issues til the tugboats chased me out
i printed another nylon/cf coupling using a 0.4mm brass nozzle to get more heat at the tip and that did the trick at 260/70 for good layer adhesion, really nice job
 
goatman said:
just put a new coupling on, its a simple 10 minute job and away you go.

i printed another nylon/cf coupling using a 0.4mm brass nozzle to get more heat at the tip and that did the trick at 260/70 for good layer adhesion, really nice job
Click to expand...
What would it cost to have it 3D printed in metal by a shop? Maybe an option?
 
i was thinking about that.
looking for 4mm bits that can cut 54mm deep is a challenge, alot of router bits are 1/4 shank, saw some with 4mm shanks that cut 35mm deep in china but are sold out
i dont want to have to flip the part, just one continuous cut out of a brass or aluminum pipe that is 35mm od with a 14mm id hole. i think i saw a place called Makersmuse in downtown vancouver where you pay $150 for a course and get to make something with their equipment

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note to self
DO NOT put on the brakes

 
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