Lego
10 mW
Hi, can the BBS02 500W be programmed to 750W? Or are these two Wattages baked into the hardware? Also, can the watt increase be achieved by switching the controller? Thanks
BBS02 500W "upgrade" to 750W ?
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alfantastic
10 kW
The only way to find out is to connect it to a programming cable and increase the Limited Current(A) to 25A.
If it doesn't allow you to do that, then other changes in settings can improve the performance somewhat. Keep Current is usually set at 60% or below, so an increase in that gives a noticeable improvement, at the expense of using more battery juice.
If it doesn't allow you to do that, then other changes in settings can improve the performance somewhat. Keep Current is usually set at 60% or below, so an increase in that gives a noticeable improvement, at the expense of using more battery juice.
Lego
10 mW
Thanks, I do use the programming cable and the 25A selection appears - so i selected it!
Does this indicate that the hardware IS the same as a 750W ?
_ As far as the Keep Current setting, I've disabled the PAS altogether by disconnecting the grey wire at the plug -
So will this Keep Current setting make any difference at all? Here's pics of the descriptors inscribed on the bottom of this bbs02
Does this indicate that the hardware IS the same as a 750W ?
_ As far as the Keep Current setting, I've disabled the PAS altogether by disconnecting the grey wire at the plug -
So will this Keep Current setting make any difference at all? Here's pics of the descriptors inscribed on the bottom of this bbs02
alfantastic
10 kW
AFAIK, the motor hardware is the same as the 500w. So if you can change the setting to 25A and it shows it in Limited Current(A) and also in the Controller Info section, then I reckon it's the same.
The Keep Current(%) only works with the Pedal Assist, so this setting won't affect you.
The Keep Current(%) only works with the Pedal Assist, so this setting won't affect you.
mettzman
10 mW
https://electricbike-blog.com/bbs02-controller-mods/
"Most people will just pony up the $80 or so for another controller when theirs go belly up, but if you want to make sure that your controllers don’t fry as easily next time you go out and ride, a Mosfet upgrade might be just what the doctor ordered. It will run much cooler than the stock mosfets and should give you many years of good service."
"Most people will just pony up the $80 or so for another controller when theirs go belly up, but if you want to make sure that your controllers don’t fry as easily next time you go out and ride, a Mosfet upgrade might be just what the doctor ordered. It will run much cooler than the stock mosfets and should give you many years of good service."
alfantastic
10 kW
Hats off to mettzman for pointing that out. It does look like you have a controller with the inferior MOSFETs. There is a very good chance that you will blow your controller if reprogrammed for more performance.
Happened to me a while back. Just fitted a new upgraded MOSFET controller and carried on as normal :wink:
Happened to me a while back. Just fitted a new upgraded MOSFET controller and carried on as normal :wink:
Lego
10 mW
Yes I do have the inferior MOSFETS but I programmed it to 750W and WOW, performance is much greater! However, likely gone is the insane range I had - like 2 hours WOT. I'm going to program the assist levels to give me a simulated 500w because that's cool to have and adequate for long rides. The conclusion also seems to be that the 500 and 750w are the same hardware, just programmed differently. In the urban jungle I need acceleration for 'vehicular cycling' so the 750w suits me in the city. Also note that I have very low gearing and the bike top speed is 23mph. I'm using a 3 speed IGH shimano nexus hub and a HUGE cog with the 44t bafang chainring. As it's been noted quite a lot, the bbs02 loves the rpms and i've indulged it. I also have a temperature probe and with cool sf ambient temps the hottest its ever gotten is 90F, however normally at low 80s. So this controller may have a great future 
cell_man
100 kW
You never stated the viltage of the kit, but I'm assuming you started with a 48V 500W, 18A?
In that case, the motor, gears and everything except possibly the controller will be the same. The motor winding may be slightly slower in the 48V 500W, than the 750W, but that is not a big deal.
Plenty of people ran the old version controllers without a problem, just so long as you don't work the motor hard at low rpm and use the bikes gearing properly, it should be fine.
In that case, the motor, gears and everything except possibly the controller will be the same. The motor winding may be slightly slower in the 48V 500W, than the 750W, but that is not a big deal.
Plenty of people ran the old version controllers without a problem, just so long as you don't work the motor hard at low rpm and use the bikes gearing properly, it should be fine.
Lego
10 mW
Yes it's a 48V, 500Watter and I can confirm that the older version runs cool and happy when geared appropriately (and now boosted to 750w). I'm also anticipating long mechanical service life too from the lower gearing. To get to higher speeds, higher than 23mph which I really don't need much around here, I wish i had a fourth gear. But I'd rather keep the torque and response (and longevity) of the lower gearing. I disabled the PAS and just ride/shift like I would any 3-speed motorcycle, cutting the throttle on each shift, and no ebrakes either. It's intuitive and stays in my control. In the rare case that I need more acceleration, I pedal thru the acceleration on each gear, but the motor spins up so fast (in seconds) the cadence is so high that there is not much I can do with it spinning so fast. The exception is the steep hills of SF, and 'we', the motor and my legs tackle them easily, though on all of them, first gear will get me up, just more slowly. I'm very happy : )
cell_man
100 kW
Yes, the Bafang BBS high power kits do all tend to spin very fast, too fast IMPO. Each more powerful version, seems to spin even faster. This way, the motors are able to make the power they need/want them to make, but it isn't really right IMPO.
If you are using them as a pedal assist, you really want something that is on keeping to your desired/typical pedaling cadence. Whereas the engineers seem to put less importance on that and more on making the required power and getting the bike to reach as high a road speed as is possible (with typical gearing).
I tend to think the motor cadence should be more in keeping with the rider and that the extra power should come from more torque. However, if this was the case, it would be even harder on the gear system, than it is already.... So, it is hard to know what is best, when all things are considered.
If you are using them as a pedal assist, you really want something that is on keeping to your desired/typical pedaling cadence. Whereas the engineers seem to put less importance on that and more on making the required power and getting the bike to reach as high a road speed as is possible (with typical gearing).
I tend to think the motor cadence should be more in keeping with the rider and that the extra power should come from more torque. However, if this was the case, it would be even harder on the gear system, than it is already.... So, it is hard to know what is best, when all things are considered.
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