Well,
I don't quite understand everything, but I believe that I limit the power whenever required during every ride as I select the PAS level, (1 ) - (9)
OK if you settle for less voltage power and capability than you paid for, it's up to you.
I bought the unit to save space, avoid interferences, chain line problems, and complexity, avoid mounting and wiring a controller.
However: It goes FAST when required.
Heat rejection must occur at every power level, and poor heat rejection remains unchanged without modification.
Heat sink fins are a common 'bolt on' accessory for high performance RC cars, wrapping around the steel cases of those GHMs
The BBSHD added big thick fins and mass in the cases and other components to overcome excess heat.
I have not read that the BBSHD needed any additional thermally conductive potting which transmits the heat to the cases.
Adding mass is easy and heavy and 'grows' the whole unit, incurring chain line and offset design challenges.
You do know that the current production BBSO2 unit has an improved and effective built in thermal overload to shut down system?
I monitor the motor system temperature with a 'fish tank' ( 2 for $6 ) thermistor taped to the top of the unit.
hias9 said:
I still don't get it why an external controller should be a bad idea on this motor.
I am not planning to run more amps through it than stock, cooling should be way better than on an internal and I read a lot about controller failures with the stock controller probably due to overheating and high failure rate when used with 52V batteries.