BBS02 on a Road bike with 25c Tires ... Horrible idea????

[Chalo]

Just an FYI, the pads are mounted left/right reversed, or that unit should be mounted as the rear brake. The braking force is supposed to push the pad towards the closed end of the metal pad holder..

Good catch. Swap the pads and holders to the opposite sides of the caliper.

 

[superl8apex]

Just an FYI, the pads are mounted left/right reversed, or that unit should be mounted as the rear brake. The braking force is supposed to push the pad towards the closed end of the metal pad holder..

I have good luck with kool-stop pads.

Thanks for pointing that out. I hadn't even noticed they were on backwards. They​ are getting replaced with the Kool stop pads from the old calipers.

Ordered my bafang mid drive kit and schwalbe marathon tires today.

This will be a great setup. Unless it is already set up with a ten speed drivetrain, I would forget the 10 speed cassette. Eight speed components are cheaper, stronger, and you will be shifting two gears at a go with that much power.

It is already set up as a 10 speed rear, just wanted to use what I have.

 

[Chalo]

Keep the metal pad holders; later you can get Kool Stop inserts for them much more cheaply than whole pads.

 

[chas58]

Wow, thanks Super 8 & chalo, I may have to try this on my bike as the tire size is limiting the amount of riding I do. Looking forward to seeing this build.

 

[Raged]

Throttle on drop bars are fine. I've been running my setup for a while without issues.

[youtube]y29npPhguFA[/youtube]

 

[chas58]

that is a neat solution. I can't see wanting to hold the throttle down for very long on that setup though.

With the push button, all I have to do is grip the handlebars, and I can do that for an hour long commute...

 

[Raged]

that is a neat solution. I can't see wanting to hold the throttle down for very long on that setup though.

With the push button, all I have to do is grip the handlebars, and I can do that for an hour long commute...

Yeah I had that button idea as well at the start. The issue is throttle control. A good bike with BBS02/freewheel will roll well anyway, so you dont need to be on the throttle all the time. In another one of my threads I theorized a 3 button setup (eg 25%, 50%, 100%) but you still dont get the control of a throttle to ease the power on. Pressing a button to put the motor on instantly to a certain power level also puts instant torque on the chain potentially wearing it down faster than you would normally. One of my other ideas was to mate the front STI shifter to the throttle cable where you could ease the front shifter to pull the cable and throttle up for a full stealth setup. Just drill a hole in the throttle thumb lever and pass the cable through it inside a box. You would need to remove the indexing/ratcheting part of your shifter though.

You can tell I've been refining my bike for about 2 years.... Haha...

 

[superl8apex]

Raged that is a really nice setup.

Funny, I was just looking at the unused shifter to use as a throttle. Most likely will just set up something similar to raged's setup. Still trying to make the magnetic brake cut off work without it looking rigged.

 

[ScooterMan101]

chas58,

What to do is to make a " Sticky Throttle "

I made this term up after watching the Tour De France , where the rider comes back to the team support car and grabs a bottle of water , for some time. " sticky bottle " .

Any way,

What you do is take the throttle apart , by just using a flat head screw head screwdriver, then take out the spring and put white athletic tape on the inside , just enough of it to make the throttle have some resistance,
This makes your throttle a cruise control if you want,
then to shut off / slow down when applying the brakes, just move the thumb part of the throttle down in the direction your hand/fingers are going when moving to the brake lever .
If you have any concern's about a sticky throttle, just get a inline brake cut off switch.

You could also experiment with cutting enough of the spring to have the spring not so tiring on the thumb.

that is a neat solution. I can't see wanting to hold the throttle down for very long on that setup though.

With the push button, all I have to do is grip the handlebars, and I can do that for an hour long commute...

 

[ScooterMan101]

super8apex,

Why have you not considered Kepler's newest version of his friction drive ?

If I did not have so many hubs with low miles on them , I would be getting one of those.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=86961

 

[superl8apex]

ScooterMan101,

Honestly, I always associated rc motors with a god awful high pitched noise. Maybe on the next build, as I have already purchased the BBS02.

 

[chas58]

so, where are the final pictures.

How did those tires/wheels work out for that frame? Been riding it yet?

 

[superl8apex]

The tire wheel combo worked perfectly. But some how it threw the chain at 25mph about 20miles into the maiden voyage and destroyed the rear wheel, derailleur and bent the frame

So now I am building a trek Marlin 5 I won at a company event. First ride around the block was yesterday. All seems ok but want to add a chain guide for added piece of mind. Will post pics when I get home later

 

[Chalo]

The tire wheel combo worked perfectly. But some how it threw the chain at 25mph about 20miles into the maiden voyage and destroyed the rear wheel, derailleur and bent the frame

Boo! That sucks.

It's not terribly uncommon, though. The problem happens when either the inner limit screw of the rear derailleur is set too loose, and allows the derailleur to shift into the spokes; or else when the derailleur hanger has been bent inward, swinging the derailleur farther inboard and resulting in the same interference with the wheel. When the bike is in motion, once the rear derailleur catches on moving spokes, it's all over.

 

[Warren]

Disposable derailleur hangers!! Decent steel bikes had one piece dropouts/derailleur hangers, at least 5 mm thick. After a crash, the malleable steel hanger could be bent back with no ill effects. When aluminum frames came along, they soon figured out that rebending aluminum hangers wasn't a good idea, hence the disposable hanger was born. Rather than making a thick, offset hanger, they halved the dropout and hanger thickness, at the joint. Now we have 2.5 mm thick hangers at the dropout, with a sharp transition to 5 mm, right where it will bend or break the easiest. I can't begin to count the number of these crappy hangers that get bent leaning the bike against something. A few smarter ones at least have gone to thin stainless steel for the hanger.

 

[chas58]

Oh you are killing me! That Sux.

What size tires did you end up using. That looked like such a nice build.

And, that is one reason I went single speed.
1) pedaling to work my chain caught something and instantly broke the derailer. A relatively easy fix, but after that I left my good mountain bike at home and road a cheap light fixed gear to work. Well, now it has morphed into my light weigh electric speedster.
2) A friend bent a hanger on an older $3,000 Klein race mountain bike. I converted it to single speed, and then to an e-bike (the front chain rings give me the gear range I need, so I guess in e-bike configuration it is now a 3 speed).

 

[Chalo]

Disposable derailleur hangers!! Decent steel bikes had one piece dropouts/derailleur hangers, at least 5 mm thick. After a crash, the malleable steel hanger could be bent back with no ill effects.

It's true that replaceable hangers are much more subject to damage and problems, but it's also true that they're less likely to write off the entire frame in a case like this. A replacement hanger usually breaks away before the dropout is seriously damaged.

Another underlying issue that makes this kind of damage more prevalent than in years past is the increased amount of wheel offset, resulting in flatter drive side spokes that are easier to catch the derailleur cage on.

 

[superl8apex]

The carnage on the road bike, chainstays are also bent just won't show in pic

Oh you are killing me! That Sux.

What size tires did you end up using. That looked like such a nice build.

And, that is one reason I went single speed.
1) pedaling to work my chain caught something and instantly broke the derailer. A relatively easy fix, but after that I left my good mountain bike at home and road a cheap light fixed gear to work. Well, now it has morphed into my light weigh electric speedster.
2) A friend bent a hanger on an older $3,000 Klein race mountain bike. I converted it to single speed, and then to an e-bike (the front chain rings give me the gear range I need, so I guess in e-bike configuration it is now a 3 speed).

Tires were Schwalbe Marathon plus 38x27.5 and they rode awesome. That is the plan for this bike now straighten frame repaint it and single speed it.

This is now the e bike for the time being:

 

[chas58]

Well, the trek isn't as much fun on pavement for someone who rides like me, but it sure will get the job done.

 

[chas58]

I guess you answered your original question of whether is is a horrible idea.

Great idea if you don't self destruct.

I've learned to lock my rear wheel anytime I hear something odd near my rear axel, but of course by the time I hear it, the damage is done...