Avitt
100 W
Check the customer reviews on Amazon before buying. They're very helpful when looking for items like pedals.
Bicycle pedals built quality got even lower nowadays
- Thread starter Avitt
- Start date
hydro-one
10 kW
a good pair of pedals can cost over a hundred dollars. a good (flat) pedal has-
wide body , cnc or similar aluminum
replaceable pins, this is what give you your grip. they rip out occationally and need to be replaceable, this is what can damage your shins, wear shinpads.
outer ball bearings. replaceable cartrige bearings are best. only in high end pedals. most have loose bearings and an adjustable cone to adjust preload. i prefer cartridge.
chromoly axle. or Ti 14mm is standard i think
inner race is either a replaceable bushing or ball bearing. hopefully.
i grease my pedals (kona jackshit) every few months by taking off the outer cover and filling it full of grease. then screw it back on, thus forcing the grease through the bearings and out the crank side bushing... genius way to grease....some have a zerk there....also great.
just depends if u want to buy pedals once or every year......had mine for 10 years, still perfect cost me 40$
wide body , cnc or similar aluminum
replaceable pins, this is what give you your grip. they rip out occationally and need to be replaceable, this is what can damage your shins, wear shinpads.
outer ball bearings. replaceable cartrige bearings are best. only in high end pedals. most have loose bearings and an adjustable cone to adjust preload. i prefer cartridge.
chromoly axle. or Ti 14mm is standard i think
inner race is either a replaceable bushing or ball bearing. hopefully.
i grease my pedals (kona jackshit) every few months by taking off the outer cover and filling it full of grease. then screw it back on, thus forcing the grease through the bearings and out the crank side bushing... genius way to grease....some have a zerk there....also great.
just depends if u want to buy pedals once or every year......had mine for 10 years, still perfect cost me 40$
hydro-one
10 kW
those pedal in the pic look way to small for good grip. either get a "beaver trap" or a nice flat pedal with pins.
mine==
http://www.cambriabike.com/Images/product/large/kona_jackshit_primo_platfor.jpg
beaver trap
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cyclesolutions.co.uk%2Fp18532%2Fgusset-prosecutor-trials-semi-platform-pedals&ei=hpHfVOx8hpQ28aOB0AE&bvm=bv.85970519,d.eXY&psig=AFQjCNEbK6LtJByc7Dn68NKEzEyPPJVMvQ&ust=1424024314580550
mine==
http://www.cambriabike.com/Images/product/large/kona_jackshit_primo_platfor.jpg
beaver trap
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cyclesolutions.co.uk%2Fp18532%2Fgusset-prosecutor-trials-semi-platform-pedals&ei=hpHfVOx8hpQ28aOB0AE&bvm=bv.85970519,d.eXY&psig=AFQjCNEbK6LtJByc7Dn68NKEzEyPPJVMvQ&ust=1424024314580550
Paladin
100 W
I second the cartridge bearings for a quality pedal.
I just pulled apart a pair of 25+ year old pedals, cleaned and re-greased the bearings, almost like new.
I just pulled apart a pair of 25+ year old pedals, cleaned and re-greased the bearings, almost like new.
friendly1uk
1 MW
I got the pictured one's through my door for £4 which is about $6. Purchased for a customer, they found themselves on my bike when my ~$25 Wellgo's failed. The bearings feel perfectly smooth and offer no detectable play. They weigh in at a remarkable 320g a pair and I have no issue cycling in my steel toe-capped footwear. The platform is about 20% shorter then the wellgo's, which I would consider 'full size'
I was lucky at auction, but they are a cheap pedal. I just can't see why I would spend more though. Perhaps the casting is the hidden weakness, so 200lb athletes would bust them. They make great pegs though. Unless you simply must have something machined, I think most people would be happy.
Equally smooth have been two $25 sets of a more traditional design to mountain bikers http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-pair-bike-BMX-aluminium-alloy-road-mountain-clipless-bicycle-pedal-POCOOL-IP-/381124043314?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item58bcc36232
In all honestly, I don't care for the drag of sealed bearings. I'm happier setting up cup&cone's to my own requirements. I just can't get any. Hand assembly with great care is ancient history. Everything is just banged together. Perfect balls and races might come off the machine, but them someone will crush them and cover them in tar anyway. I have stood in many shops twiddling many a pedal, but am yet to find a cup&cone in good condition.
My follies into BB purchases from ebay turned up shimano branded units that felt like the balls were climbing over each other. Our desire for cheap sealed bearings has produced cheap sealed bearings. It was inevitable.
I'm happy with either of the two pedals above, depending on Road or Mountain use.
I'm not drawn to removable studs. I see they go missing. I have not seen the cast-in studs cause any problems though. The chances of me grinding one off are slim. I find my pedals fail at the bearings. So the cost of removable studs never repays itself. Though I wear steelies all the time and I do look at new pedals to make sure they interlock with my treads well. Some combinations just don't work. Or only work when dry. Them pins are very compliant though. Not for leather soles though. You could damage your shoes.
I was lucky at auction, but they are a cheap pedal. I just can't see why I would spend more though. Perhaps the casting is the hidden weakness, so 200lb athletes would bust them. They make great pegs though. Unless you simply must have something machined, I think most people would be happy.
Equally smooth have been two $25 sets of a more traditional design to mountain bikers http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-pair-bike-BMX-aluminium-alloy-road-mountain-clipless-bicycle-pedal-POCOOL-IP-/381124043314?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item58bcc36232
In all honestly, I don't care for the drag of sealed bearings. I'm happier setting up cup&cone's to my own requirements. I just can't get any. Hand assembly with great care is ancient history. Everything is just banged together. Perfect balls and races might come off the machine, but them someone will crush them and cover them in tar anyway. I have stood in many shops twiddling many a pedal, but am yet to find a cup&cone in good condition.
My follies into BB purchases from ebay turned up shimano branded units that felt like the balls were climbing over each other. Our desire for cheap sealed bearings has produced cheap sealed bearings. It was inevitable.
I'm happy with either of the two pedals above, depending on Road or Mountain use.
I'm not drawn to removable studs. I see they go missing. I have not seen the cast-in studs cause any problems though. The chances of me grinding one off are slim. I find my pedals fail at the bearings. So the cost of removable studs never repays itself. Though I wear steelies all the time and I do look at new pedals to make sure they interlock with my treads well. Some combinations just don't work. Or only work when dry. Them pins are very compliant though. Not for leather soles though. You could damage your shoes.
The surprise shouldn't be "these $4 pedals failed", it should be "how the f**k can someone possibly manufacture pedals, ship them halfway around the world and retail them, with profit at each step, for a measly $4?". The answer is that everything about them has been compromised and screwed down to a tenth of a penny.
$20 for a pair of pedals is very cheap if you consider the work that goes into making them.
$20 for a pair of pedals is very cheap if you consider the work that goes into making them.
MadRhino
100 GW
I am using expansive DH racing pedals and they hardly last 2 years. That is because I hit them on rocks once in a while. On a street bike they would last a lifetime. Expansive does't always mean better though, lighter weight might cost a lot. Ti spindle, 4 thin bearings and Magnesium platform... Many would buy a whole bike for the cost of some of the pedals available out there. :wink:
cal3thousand
10 MW
I've been using cheap ($20) black aluminum pedals made by either Kona or Diamondback. Great deal for $20 since you get replaceable grip screws. They grip my feet 10X better than the shitty plastic/rubber things that come on most hybrid bikes. And I absolutely hate the old school MTB design that you showed in the first link. They may be metal, but they slip around too.
If you want a pedal that take care of your joints:
http://www.gizmag.com/bioconform-bius1-ergonomic-bicycle-pedals/30068
http://www.bioconform.com/en/biomechanics/
http://www.gizmag.com/bioconform-bius1-ergonomic-bicycle-pedals/30068
http://www.bioconform.com/en/biomechanics/
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