bluetooth BMS?

[j bjork]

Thanks, I plan to use the same mosfets again.
Just remove the broken one and maybe a few more.
Still use 12 mosfets on the discharge, but when I have P- I dont see a reason to have 12 charge mosfets.
I think it is just one blown mosfet, but I dont know yet.
My guess is that the one that seems to have been hot is the broken one.

 

[j bjork]

Alright, I gave it a try with a 100w soldering iron with a tip that would fit between the mosfets.
I have one with a bigger tip, but that hit the chisel on the mosfets before touching the metal.

A picture to get a feel for the size I used.

And it worked really well, it was easier than I expected

I will run my copper plate out in this direction. I need it to clear those connections, but still leave room for all the mosfets.

This is how it turned out. The hardest part was to keep the mosfets from moving around when soldering.
Especially not to move the first row when soldering the second row.
I went for 6 charge mosfets, it should be plenty for max 50A charging.
I didnt expect 1mm to make a lot of difference to the leg length, but it did. I was able to bend them to touch the bord at least, then I added extra solder to the legs.

In the box. With the big wires in the "right" direction I could shorten the discharge (now P-) wire a little.

I do worry a little that there might be uneven load on the mosfets now, when I have both wires in the same direction.
Before, with the B- in one end of the copper plate, and C- at the other end of the other copper plate the resistance of the copper plates would even out.
Now it increases in both plates the further it gets from the wires.
I have no idea if it is a big problem, or a non issue..

 

[nardcox]

Short question. I have a 20S20P pack with a 200A ANT BMS.
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32856349172.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.18aa4c4daaC3o4
I have connected the balacing wires but as soon as I want to connect the final wire (the red one) on the 20+ it gives a small spark, is this normal?
Video of the setup: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOIMJqnak8rBdpJ0lzx1lMFRK7soIxQyE4wN42c6zWFnvWeL0wVsYxnH_xtGPJ5WQ?key=RUxBZFNLNWZHZHJfckVCM1dUSlhpbGdEbDM0N0V3
The battery is not connected to anything other than the BMS.

 

[nardcox]

So I decided to solder the wire and then plug in the connector. I see a small smark at the red wire inside the connector but other than that the BMS doesn't do anything... Suggestions?

 

[chrborup]

Hi Guys

What is happening here? I am measuring the correct voltage, and all the cell lines has been checked that they are in correct order.

Have you seen this before? It's a 21S BMS

https://ibb.co/6rgRS5V
https://ibb.co/NsZXCFb
https://ibb.co/0fqn2pX
https://ibb.co/CQcgnPW

 

[thundercamel]

Can you probe the voltage between BC29 and BC30 on the board please? Also between BC0 and BC1 while you're at it.

 

[EndlessDoge]

Hi, I have an ANT BMS (the smaller version that's rated for 7-16S. Aliexpress listing: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32997552090.html)

The display has one page that displays your speed and works as an odometer but to make it work an hall sensor must be connected by soldering a wire to the back of the "lcd driver" pcb.

I would like to use the bms' display to view my speed but in order to make it work an hall sensor must be connected to the "lcd driver" pcb by soldering a wire to the back of it.

I think that it's supposed to be connected an hub motor's hall sensor (?) but my ebike's motor is mid drive and it's brushed so I think that it doesn't even have an hall sensor.

Could i make this work by getting something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000337147423.html and installing it to my bike's front wheel like you would with a bike's computer speed sensor?
The display runs on 5V so maybe i could get +5v and GND from the lcd controller (hopefully without destroying it) and connect the sensor's signal wire to the back of the pcb.
What do you think?

 

[nardcox]

screenshot.jpg

Thanks for the picture. I have the same display and was wondering where that hallsensor cable should go.

Cant help with your question, sorry.

 

[thundercamel]

I'd say go for it. I know from measuring my hub's hall sensors that each of the 3 wires just cycles between 5 and 0 volts. If you can measure that coming out of the sensor, then you're golden.

 

[Super-Ev]

Hey, i got this bms from aliexpress icgogo store. The 300A version. And i followed youtube video on how to connect each series from my battery.
Now that my balance leads are plugged to the board the bms shows proper output voltage.
But the bluetooth app can not connect..

Im using the vbms app but I think some people have custom ones that work better/allow you to chose bluetooth device.
This vbms app doesn't even let you select a bluetooth device... rip $8..

I also tried to connect the battery to my ebike and on connection to speed controller the battery makes no spark and only reads 0.8v. When i disconnect from controller battery reads 64v like normal...

I've built 20+ packs in my life with LTT smart bms and daly bms and CLRD but i never had this many issues.. antbms was a bad bad choice... im stuck with 4 of em now.. anyone want?

 

[nardcox]

Did you also connect the power BUTTON and turned it on (stupid question probably)? Are the lights blinking on the BMS? I can select a Bluetooth device to connect to. Did you also enter the password (1234) in the Bluetooth settings menu?

 

[Super-Ev]

Did you also connect the power BUTTON and turned it on (stupid question probably)? Are the lights blinking on the BMS? I can select a Bluetooth device to connect to. Did you also enter the password (1234) in the Bluetooth settings menu?

Umm there's a power button? I got the version without LCD..
About the bluetooth list.. i guess I'm slow. Could you please show me where that is located on the app?
And finally the little led on the bms is not flashing....

Thanks for the fast reply

 

[nardcox]

Yes, I also missed it at first (I have the lcd version though). It's a very small button that you will have to connect to a connector with 2 cables, should also be supplied. Carefully look at the pictures on the AliEx site (from ICGOGO).

Regarding bluetooth, go into the bluetooth settings on your phone and connect to BMS-ANT24C, the name might differ but it should be similar. There will be 2 devices listed so choose the correct one. It should prompt you for a password, 1234. After that just open the app and it should connect automagically .
Inside the app I just press "connect" in top and it gives me a list of all my paired bluetooth devics.

That tract that there are no lights burning means the BMS isn't active and hence you can't connect vie bluetooth. Hang in there it took me a lot of tries as well.

You're welcome, I know a fast reply is appreciated if you are waiting on something. I also have 2 questions open for like a week now without reply and can't drive my scooter, really frustrating...

 

[tomchester999]

Hello!!

I have purchased 2 x ANT BMS 8 - 20s 300A

Unfortunately they are not working as hoped.

The app sent to me by the seller was maYi BMS which wasn't very helpful so I used VBMS instead.

However the cell voltages are not showing correctly. Before connecting the BMS I have checked each pin of the JST lead and they are in the correct order 16 cells. Each cell is almost exactly 4v. On the App when on 20s setting it shows various numbers including one cell at 3.7 (it is not) and also cell 20 is 1.7v ??

And when I change to 16s it shows 0v on 4 cells!?

I purchased two of these BMS and both are behaving the same.

Any ideas??

thanks so much for your help in advance!

Tom

 

[Mart76]

I have a ANT BMS and it works. It is a 7-16 S BMS and I connected a 9S-LiFePo-Battery. Only fault it has, the App does only show half of the actual input current and therefore only half the input power. Is this a popular fault or do I need to post pictures? What could be the reason for this?

 

[Mart76]

I will answer my question myself. To calibrate the current reading, you have to adjust "Current Sensor Range" accordingly in the ParameterConfig. I just about doubled the setting from 100 to 220. Will adjust further if I have it on my lab bench and have better meters.

 

[patrickza]

So my ANT BMS has been working flawlessly apart from one minor issue. When charging, my cells will be balancing fine, then when they're just about at full voltage and perfectly in balance, it seems like the balance function turns off and the voltages will start to drift. The lights still flash as if it's balancing, but the voltages will drift further and further apart if I leave it. The only way to get them to balance again is to use the bike and then charge it again.

It's not the end of the world, but it means I need to be around so I can unplug the charger as soon as I hit the right voltage and the balancing is done which is quite inconvenient. Is there a setting I can adjust so this doesn't happen?

 

[j bjork]

I can set a "max balance limit voltage"
I havent really checked if it stops there, but it sounds like you have a problem if your battery gets unbalanced as soon as the bms stops balancing.

 

[ebike11]

Hi all!
I have the 300A 24S model but currently using only 18S. Its all connected fine but when one cell reaches the max. cell voltage limit whichbi set at 4.2 then the bms shunts off the charger. Most of the other cells are around 4.05 to 4.1. How can I get all the other cells to increase in voltage and balance to the same level as the 4.2v cell?
Thanks

 

[j bjork]

Charge sloooow or do it manually

 

[nardcox]

That's quite a big unbalance. I think you can force balancing in the app, you could try that.

Keep an eye on those voltages, it they discharge and become unbalanced you need to inspect the pack.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Not sure if it helps, but I'm using one of these on my 6Kwh powerwall and since the balance current is only ~200ma I set the balance start voltage to 3.1V. As the battery stops discharging at 3.45V it is basically always balancing when charging.
Due to some replacement cells the initial cell imbalance was about 0.05V which isn't huge, but with 120AH to balance it was bound to take a while.
Finally after about 2 months it's finally got the imbalance down to about 0.02V.

Anyway, my point is, you might be able to work around your problem by setting the balance start voltage as low as possible and if the cells are close enough they will eventually even up.

Cheers

 

[ebike11]

Charge sloooow or do it manually

but thats why i bought a bluetooth smart bms. i thought i wouldnt have to do it manually. I thought the bms can handle this sort of task

 

[j bjork]

Yes it does. But if your battery is that unbalanced it will take a long time.

 

[ebike11]

Yes it does. But if your battery is that unbalanced it will take a long time.

All the cells are near each other..just 1 cell is 0.1V lower than the others and another cell is 0.1V higher