Sure, but you are using good-quality EV-grade cells that are almost certainly well-matched.
That's true of extremely few battery packs on ebikes and other small EVs. Yours, mine, Dogdipstick, Liveforphysics...the handful of A123 prismatic cell users from way back. Probably a dozen others here on ES that I don't recall specific names of, possibly others I don't know about. A few times that many outside the forum.
Almost all ebike packs out there these days are either cheap 18650 or other cylindricals, or cheap poorly-assembled small-capacity prismatic packs with no compression, etc. Virtually none of these will be matched-characteristics cells,
The reason I posted what I did here (and do elsewhere when this comes up) is that most people bypassing a BMS (rather than building a pack wihtout one, using cells that are relatively safe to use that way) are doing so because they are having a battery problem already, and bypassing the BMS is high risk in these cases, because they don't usually understand why what is happening is happening, and think the BMS is broken, when in fact it's doing exactly what it is supposed to do.
Or they think it's just too expensive to buy a new battery so they'll just keep using the one they have and take out the safety system keeping them from damaging it so badly that it fails catastrophically.
So my posts are a warning not just to the actual poster, but to all those that find the thread later and read it so they don't think it's just safe and all ok to just bypass the thing that is probably keeping them from having a fire.
Critical information:
Is that under load? Or just sitting there? At what state of charge? When full? When it shuts off? What actual voltage, to two decimal places, do they read in each situation?****
Those are what you'd need to know to determine that the cells are "balanced", but this still doesn't tell you if they are all identical properties (matched); as over time, slight differences in them that don't show up in a single charge/discharge cycle would over time cause differences in voltage that are worse and worse, and without a BMS to protect against it can allow the worst cells to drop below a safe limit or even reverse (negative voltage).
If they're not identical in all those digits, they're not the same voltage, and if they ever were the same, then they are changing in voltage because the cells are not matched, and it will grow worse over time.
If a pack is used with discharge protection bypassed this way, then with luck the BMS will be well enough designed to prevent recharge in this situation. But if charge protection is then bypassed for any reason, further cell damage will probably happen, and a fire could happen, at any point after the initial damage, and there is no way to know when this may happen.
The same thing can hapen if the BMS is not correctly designed, so that once a cell drops far enough below it's limit it no longer considers it to be belwo the limit, but instead ignores it's existence thinking there is no cell attached.
If you have good quality well-matched (identical in capacity, internal resistance, etc) cells that always remain identical in voltage regardless of state of charge or load, and they are more than capable of providing the current the system requires under it's worst case load even when they are down just above empty, then it's safe enough to run without a BMS for discharge.
Otherwise, I'd recommend leaving the BMS's protections in place.
If you do decide to bypass the BMS anyway, I highly recommend adding at least a light or buzzer or both to it so that if it trips the protection on, you'll at least know that it has done so. Then you can check the cell voltages to be sure none are dropping below their safe levels (including under load), in which case you stop immediately, and preferably that none are different from each other in which case you can decide what to do about the mismatch later.
