BMSBattery 12 MOSFET 500 Watt Controller

[DISH]

This controller is available for 25$US from http://www.bmsbattery.com/.

You can also find it on eBay by searching for the eBay username ecitypower. Shipping may seem a bit expensive but they use Federal Express (at least to the USA) and it only took THREE DAYS from Guangzhou, China to NE USA and this included Saturday and Sunday!!! I had the tracking number and was amazed that it kept moving over the weekend and arrived Monday morning. It was shipped LATE Friday evening just before midnight.

===== UPDATE: 2010 JULY 26 =====
It appears the controller in this review has been replaced with a newer model.

Review of new version of this controller is posted here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20176

I just bought another one of these controllers for a new project and it arrived today. Externally it appears slightly different than the one I got last year. I will open it up and post new pictures in the next few days as I now have a much higher resolution camera.

I've been running the controller I bought last year at 60 volts for the past six months with no problems using the same 350 watt Bionx motor which now cruises at 30 to 35 MPH on level roads at this voltage. I do NOT have the hall sensors connected as the system runs fine without them. Regen braking works flawlessly. Internal current limit appears to be set around 25 amps. The logging function of the Cycle Analyst occasionally shows a short peak of approx. 30 amps but quickly drops back to 25 amps. 25 amps x 60 volts = 1500 watts. The Cycle Analyst shows a peak power of 1600 watts. After a half hour ride at this power level the controller is only slightly warm to the touch as long as it is mounted so that it gets good airflow. I had it mounted inside an enclosure at one time and it got quite hot. Although it worked fine, I do NOT recommend this. Mount it where it will get airflow when you are moving! At the 1500 watt power level (60 volts @ 25 amps) the Bionx 350 watt motor is also only slightly warm to the touch after a half hour ride mostly at full throttle on hilly roads. This is when riding in 90 to 100 degree (f) weather about as hot as it ever gets around here.

===== UPDATE: 2009 NOV 16 =====
Previous reports were wrong and It is NOT the same controller as here: http://www.lsdzs.com/e/ProView.asp?ProId=327

The lsdzs connection was based on information that BMSBattery sent to me and is BOGUS as the lsdzs controller appears to use a different uP (Cyprus). Thanks go to full-throttle for this info.

===== UPDATE: 2009_10-20 =====
Here is the connection info that arrived via Email after I published this post:
=====
12 MOSFET 500W Controller diagram
Power: Red---Positive pole.
Black---Negative pole.
Orange(or small Red wire)---Battery Power Off Lock/Key
Motor: Blue,Green,Yellow
Hall Sensor: Red,Black,Blue,Yellow,Green.
Throttle: Red,Black,Green (Brown and Green)
PAS (Pedal Assistant Sensor): Red,Yellow,Green
Brake: blue-white (High Voltage Level (Connect to positive battery terminal to enable Regen E-brake!)
Cruise: Grey
=====
2008.05 SunplusIT Announced SPMC65SF112A, a Flash-embedded MCU for E-bike control.
SPMC65SF112A
SunplusIT 8 bit MCU
Oprating Voltage = 2.0 - 5.5
Max. system clock = 16 MHZ
Package = LQFP32/LQFP48
built-in osc = Y
ROM = Flash, 8K
RAM = 256B
Max. GPIO = 30
ADC = 9-ch
Input Capture = 4
Comparator = 3
PWM = 2
3-phase, 6-line Motor Control PWM = 1
Timer = 4
Internal INT = 17
External INT = 5
SPI = Y
UART = Y
=====

One of the features of the controller is the ability to run with or WITHOUT Hall Effect Sensors. This has been verified on a gutted Bionx 350 watt motor. The Bionx system has been nothing but trouble for me and after having it replaced twice under warranty, the warranty finally ran out and it was then '-MY-' problem. I am now using the 350 watt Bionx motor with this controller.

Motor direction can be reversed by turning on the controller and plugging the two white wires together that come out of the controller. They have mating connectors on the ends of the wires. I did not realize this at the time the photos were taken so these particular wires are not displayed well in the photos.

What I did was prop the wheel up so the tire was off the ground, turn the system on then connect the two white wires together. The motor will start to turn SLOWLY. If the wires are taken apart then put back together the motor will turn in the opposite direction. Whatever direction the motor is turning will be the direction it will tun when the throttle is opened AFTER the white wires are opened. The white wires are to be left open in normal use. They appear to program motor direction like a flip-flop. One pulse (by shorting the wires together then opening) programs forward and the next pulse (open wires, short again then open) programs reverse.

Of course motor direction can also be changed with wiring changes, but having the ability to do this by simply plugging two low current wires together on the controller then opening them is a nice feature.

There is a gray wire that comes out of the controller and is looped back into the controller. If this wire is cut it disables the auto-cruise function. Auto-cruise is set by holding the throttle at a constant speed for 8 seconds. The throttle can then be let go and the motor will continue to turn at that speed. If the throttle is moved after auto-cruise kicks in, the auto-cruise is immediately disabled. If you have the E-brake wire hooked up, tapping the brakes with also disable auto-cruise.

I have not fully tested regen braking at this time but use it extensively on my other bikes as I live in a mountainous area and regen braking works extremely well in this area. I sometimes arrive at my destination with more charge in the battery than when I left home but that depends on whether the trip is mostly uphill or downhill!

Here are some photos: (Sorry I do not have a high resolution camera. These are 720x480 frame captures from an HDTV video camera under POOR lighting which is why the color is a bit washed out...



View attachment 7







Inside views (the GOOD part) in the next post...

 

[Russell]

Nice to see the "big" version, I have the medium sized 9-FET model

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13659


Have you figured out how to use the single brake wire, mine says "low level" while yours says "high level"? Submitting questions to Ecitypower is proving to be frustrating, all they do is respond with a note identifying the wires but no explanations. As you did I also had to figure out the function of the white wires on my own. How well does your controller work in the sensorless mode with your direct drive motor? Mine doesn't work very well with a freewheeling geared motor.


-R

 

[DISH]

As promised here are some INSIDE views...






View attachment 4





I am presently using this controller with a 36 volt 28 AH Li-Ion battery pack of my own construction. One issue I've run into in testing is low battery cutoff appears to be 28.5 volts. It's is suppose to be 31.5 volts according to the manufacturer. My experience has been that low battery cutoff is not something they spend a lot of time calibrating so it could be most anything. If it's something that you consider important, my advice is to actually test it and find out what it is.

There are three leads on the wires coming out of the controller and going to the battery. (Red - Black and Orange (or lighter red smaller diameter) that goes to the switch. I found that placing a 180 ohm resistor in series with the small wire raised the low battery cutoff to approx. 32 volts. I had already put the controller back together when I discovered this so I don't know exactly where that wire goes inside the controller. There may be a better way to raise low battery cutoff but this appears to work without having to open the controller. I'll know more about this when I actually run a battery pack down to that voltage and see if the controller cuts off. My low battery cutoff tests for this article were done using a low current bench supply with no load on the hub motor.

One nice feature of the resistor trick is if you are nearing home and the low battery cutoff trips, you can jumper the resistor if needed and CAREFULLY go a bit more. I normally do not run my battery much below 35 volts and consider 32.0 about the lowest I'd ever go.

I hope you have enjoyed the tour of the inside of the BMS Battery 500 watt 12 MOSFET controller. So far it looks like a LOT of controller for 25$US. Only time will tell how well it holds up...

 

[Russell]

There is a gray wire that comes out of the controller and is looped back into the controller. If this wire is cut it disables the auto-cruise function. Auto-cruise is set by holding the throttle at a constant speed for 8 seconds. The throttle can then be let go and the motor will continue to turn at that speed. If the throttle is moved after auto-cruise kicks in, the auto-cruise is immediately disabled. If you have the E-brake wire hooked up, tapping the brakes with also disable auto-cruise.

I cut the grey loop and installed a momentary switch which allows cruise to be instantly triggered on and off

As promised here are some INSIDE views...

Hey thanks for the inside views, I haven't opened mine yet...and now may not :wink:

I am presently using this controller with a 36 volt 28 AH Li-Ion battery pack of my own construction. One issue I've run into in testing is low battery cutoff appears to be 28.5 volts. It's is suppose to be 31.5 volts according to the manufacturer. My experience has been that low battery cutoff is not something they spend a lot of time calibrating so it could be most anything. If it's something that you consider important, my advice is to actually test it and find out what it is.

I ran my pack all the way down yesterday and my Ecitypower (same as BMS battery) 36V 9-FET model started cutting out at 27.5V.


-R

 

[dnmun]

you need to edit the text. there are 4 FETs for each phase, and only 2 in parallel on each side of the phase wire. 2 for highside, and 2 for lowside.

that little red wire is your controller current lead. that is where you put the switch to turn off the controller so it doesn't drain the battery. you should not be putting a resistor in that lead until you know more than you do.

it is shutting down because the voltage on the 5V rail is dropping below the level that allows the 8bit processor to work, that is not the same as LVC. you could end up with a blown up controller if you continue using that resistor there.

 

[DISH]

I cut the grey loop and installed a momentary switch which allows cruise to be instantly triggered on and off

Glad it worked for you on the smaller controller as well.

Have you figured out how to use the single brake wire, mine says "low level" while yours says "high level"? Submitting questions to Ecitypower is proving to be frustrating, all they do is respond with a note identifying the wires but no explanations. As you did I also had to figure out the function of the white wires on my own. How well does your controller work in the sensorless mode with your direct drive motor? Mine doesn't work very well with a freewheeling geared motor.

Right after i got it running I tore the system apart so i can lace the hub motor into the wheel I intend to use on the bike. After I get it back together and put a few miles on it I'll post the results of my tests.

When I was running it sensorless the motor started instantly and seemed to run the same whether I had the Hall Effect Sensors connected or not. This is a direct drive hub motor and even regen braking seemed to be working in the brief tests that I did. I suspect that sensorless operation may not work as well on a geared hub motor that has a freewheel built into the motor. And of course you can forget about regen braking due to the freewheel.

The motor I am using for these tests is a gutted 350 watt Bionx motor. The reason I say '-GUTTED-' is Bionx mounts the controller inside the hub motor making servicing a nightmare. After repairing the controller more than once I decided it was time to get the controller out of the motor and move away from the closed Bionx system. That is why I gutted the motor and bought the 500 watt controller. So far it looks like a wise decision.

MORE TO COME...

 

[Russell]

When I was running it sensorless the motor started instantly and seemed to run the same whether I had the Hall Effect Sensors connected or not. This is a direct drive hub motor and even regen braking seemed to be working in the brief tests that I did. I suspect that sensorless operation may not work as well on a geared hub motor that has a freewheel built into the motor. And of course you can forget about regen braking due to the freewheel.

Yes mine works much better in sensorless mode on my Nine Continent direct drive motor than it does on the geared motor.

After asking FOUR TIMES Jack Xie finally said I should hook up the single brake lead to the battery + terminal to activate it. Is that how you have your ebrakes set-up with a seperate lead from the battery to the ebrake levers (w/normally open contacts) and then back to the brake lead on the controller?


-R

 

[DISH]

it is shutting down because the voltage on the 5V rail is dropping below the level that allows the 8bit processor to work, that is not the same as LVC. you could end up with a blown up controller if you continue using that resistor there.

Here are some details and voltage measurements of what is going on when a resistor is placed is series with the switched lead:

View attachment 28.gif
The problem with this is I do NOT consider it safe to run my battery pack down to 28.5 volts. So either I have to carefully watch what I'm doing or raise the low battery cut off of the controller.

Here are some voltage checks with the resistor installed:
View attachment 32.gif
Both leads have the same or more voltage on them when low battery cut off occurs after the mod is installed. In particular the switched lead has exactly the same voltage 28.5 v (when low battery cutoff occurs) as it did before the resistor was installed.

Normally I would open the controller, find the right resistors and change whatever is needed to alter the cutoff voltage. I tried this just to see if it would work as I had everything on the bench at the time and was powering it from a current limited power supply.

After the bench tests I ran it on the bike a number of times and so far I'm not seeing any problem with this modification.

I do agree that this is NOT the proper way to do this and I certainly would NOT recommend anyone try this on any other controller without proper testing. In this case (with this particular controller) it appears to be a simple way to raise the low battery cutoff voltage.

Next time I have the controller open I'll do some more investigating...

 

[DISH]

Yes mine works much better in sensorless mode on my Nine Continent direct drive motor than it does on the geared motor.

After asking FOUR TIMES Jack Xie finally said I should hook up the single brake lead to the battery + terminal to activate it. Is that how you have your ebrakes set-up with a seperate lead from the battery to the ebrake levers (w/normally open contacts) and then back to the brake lead on the controller?

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier. I thought you only had a geared hub motor with a built in freewheel and I didn't see how regen braking would work with that, but I now see that you also have a direct drive motor as well. Plus I wanted to verify a few things to MAKE SURE what I posted here was accurate. When people talk about hooking unknown wires directly to the high side of a battery I get nervous as there is nothing to limit the current until you let the smoke out and putting the smoke back in is sometimes difficult!

The short answer is YES. The regen E-Brake is activated by connecting the single wire brake line (which is white with a blue tracer on my controller) to the high side of the battery. I guess that's what the chart was trying to tell us by "Brake: blue-white (High Voltage Level)".

I presently have the system back on the workbench as I'm lacing the motor into my wheel so I did a bit of testing and found out the following.

I opened the throttle and briefly shorted the gray wires which locked the speed. I then slowly increased the voltage into the white / blue tracer brake wire and found out that the brake is activated when the voltage gets to approx. 7.5 volts. Connecting the wire directly to the battery (which was around 42 volts at the time) I measured a current of around 4 ma meaning the brake line looks like it's feeding the equivalent of a 10 to 11k resistor.

When the brake line is high and the wheel is rotating the hub motor is working as a generator and recharging the battery. If your battery is near full charge the braking effect will be minimal. The lower the battery voltage the more effective the E-Brake will be. My Bionx system worked exactly the same way.

 

[DISH]

=====
12 MOSFET 500W Controller diagram
Power: Red---Positive pole.
Black---Negative pole.
Orange(or small Red wire)---Battery Power Off Lock/Key
Motor: Blue,Green,Yellow
Hall Sensor: Red,Black,Blue,Yellow,Green.
Throttle: Red,Black,Green (Brown and Green)
PAS (Pedal Assistant Sensor): Red,Yellow,Green
Brake: blue-white (High Voltage Level)
Cruise: Grey
=====

You can add the following:

Brown wire with green plastic plug on the end of it = Speedometer !!!

I've seen this listed as "METER" on some charts but was never sure what meter meant. Now I know it means speedometer!

As long as the motor is rotating (even if the throttle is NOT being used) there will be a voltage on this wire. The higher the RPM the higher the voltage. I show around 17 volts with the motor running at 450 RPM and 0.0 volts when the motor is not moving.

 

[DISH]

Here's a better photo with labels on all the wires....

 

[DISH]

BMSBattery 12 MOSFET 500W Controller - Updated connection chart
=====
Power:
Red = Battery Positive
Black = Battery Negative
Orange(or small Red wire): Battery Power Off Lock/Key
^^^ Connect to switch then to battery positive

Motor: Blue,Green,Yellow

Hall Sensor: Red,Black,Blue,Yellow,Green.
^^^ Red = +4.5 to 5.0 vdc
^^^ Black = ground
^^^ Blue,Green,Yellow = Signals from Hall Effect Sensors

Throttle: Red,Black,Green (Green with brown tracer)
^^^ Red = +4.5 to 5 vdc
^^^ Black = Ground
^^^ Green = 0 to 5 vdc throttle

PAS (Pedal Assistant Sensor): Red,Yellow,Green

Brake: blue-white (High Voltage Level)
^^^ Connect to battery positive to activate regen E-Brake

Cruise: Grey looped wire
^^^ Cut this wire to disable auto cruise
OR
^^^ Connect to momentary push button switch - Pushing the switch latches the present throttle position - pushing the switch again turns auto cruse off. Thanks Russell I was just turning mine off and on and hadn't noticed it would latch just like the cruise control on a car!
^^^ If you leave this wire looped like the controller comes from the factor then auto cruise will only kick in after the throttle is held in one position for 8 seconds.
^^^ NOTE: Auto cruise will stop if the throttle is moved while auto cruise is active OR if the regen / E-Brake line is taken high.

Brown wire with green plastic plug on the end of it = Speedometer !!! Also called '-METER-' on some diagrams.
^^^ Analog voltage - 0.0 volts when motor is not turning - Approx. 17 vdc when motor is rotating at 450 RPM. Voltage indicates speed as long as motor is rotating whether throttle is active or not.

If there are NO hall effect sensors connected to the controller the controller will run the motor in sensorless mode.

Motor direction can be reversed by momentarily connecting the white wires together while the controller is turned on and the throttle is at zero. There are mating connectors on the white wires. The wires should NOT be connected to each other when the system is in normal use.

 

[Russell]

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier. I thought you only had a geared hub motor with a built in freewheel and I didn't see how regen braking would work with that, but I now see that you also have a direct drive motor as well. Plus I wanted to verify a few things to MAKE SURE what I posted here was accurate. When people talk about hooking unknown wires directly to the high side of a battery I get nervous as there is nothing to limit the current until you let the smoke out and putting the smoke back in is sometimes difficult!

The short answer is YES. The regen E-Brake is activated by connecting the single wire brake line (which is white with a blue tracer on my controller) to the high side of the battery. I guess that's what the chart was trying to tell us by "Brake: blue-white (High Voltage Level)".

I presently have the system back on the workbench as I'm lacing the motor into my wheel so I did a bit of testing and found out the following.

I opened the throttle and briefly shorted the gray wires which locked the speed. I then slowly increased the voltage into the white / blue tracer brake wire and found out that the brake is activated when the voltage gets to approx. 7.5 volts. Connecting the wire directly to the battery (which was around 42 volts at the time) I measured a current of around 4 ma meaning the brake line looks like it's feeding the equivalent of a 10 to 11k resistor.

When the brake line is high and the wheel is rotating the hub motor is working as a generator and recharging the battery. If your battery is near full charge the braking effect will be minimal. The lower the battery voltage the more effective the E-Brake will be. My Bionx system worked exactly the same way.

Thanks that's good info. I was especially hesitant to connect the battery voltage to my controller's "brake" wire because my controller rating plate reads "Brake: Low level". Grounding the "brake" wire did nothing and I didn't see why my otherwise identical 9-FET model would be LOW while your 12-FET model is HIGH so I suspected my rating plate has a misprint.

I installed the controller on one of my bikes with a geared motor to test it but since it didn't work well sensorless I have since removed it. The controller will work better with the 9C motor I have plus I'll be able like you to use the real e-braking or "ABS" as they refer to it. I would like to build something up using this controller and the 9C motor but I think that'll have to wait until spring.

-R

 

[DISH]

Thanks that's good info. I was especially hesitant to connect the battery voltage to my controller's "brake" wire because my controller rating plate reads "Brake: Low level". Grounding the "brake" wire did nothing and I didn't see why my otherwise identical 9-FET model would be LOW while your 12-FET model is HIGH so I suspected my rating plate has a misprint.

I also noticed the conflicting "Brake: Low level" / high level thing and as a result was also VERY reluctant to connect it directly to the battery. That's why all the tests.

What you can do if you are still unsure is put a resistor in series with the brake wire going to the battery. Start at 10K which should trigger it just fine. That should put around 1/2 battery voltage on the brake line but more important current can not exceed approx. 4 ma or so using a 10k resistor and should really be about half that amount assuming your controller shows approx. 10k internal resistance on this lead like my controller does.

If the brake does NOT activate using the series 10k resistor then I'd be suspect that your controller is different. In that case you can try a lower value resistor but in no case would I go below 1k ohm as that would allow approx. 40 ma to flow and if your brake hasn't activated at that current level chances are any more current will let the smoke out :wink: .

 

[marshy]

Wow, this is great work guys. My "early adopter" bmsbattery 6 FET controller is missing many of these features (although I'm pretty sure the description was the same). Never mind, it works well. At that time they had a range of 6 controllers which they have since rationalized - a good thing. They don't seem to offer the specific one I bought anymore.

btw, if anyone - particularly from Australia - is ordering from bmsbattery and would be kind enough to purchase and mail me a couple of their PAS sensors ($1 each ), I'd be very grateful. I don't need anything else from them at the moment and $40+ shipping for a $2 purchase is a little difficult to justify...

 

[fechter]

On most chinese controllers, a "low level" brake wire has 5v present and the brake function is activated by grounding this wire.
A "high level" brake wire is intended to go to the brake light bulb, which gets full battery voltage when the brakes are applied. There should be zero volts on this wire normally. It should still work if a somewhat lower voltage is applied to the wire or if you place a resistor in series with it. If you measured the resistance against ground of the brake wire (power off), it would give you an idea of the input circuit.

9mohm FETs aren't the best, but should be fine for 25 amps. I can imagine some IRFB4110's in the future.

I'll be real interested in how it behaves on startup in the sensorless mode. Most cheap sensorless setups have a fairly bad behavior until the speed gets up to the point where the sensorless circuit is getting a good signal.

 

[dnmun]

you still need to take that resistor out of the controller current lead.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Here is my controller....can anyone tell me what is what and what does what? Thanks..............

Basic control unit.

Does anyone even know what half of this stuff plugs into???

This one is particularly intriguing. The HUB kit came with 2 brakes, and there is a microswitch built into the brakes and from those brakes come wires. The wire ends in the following terminal.......

........and this is a closeup of that very terminal at the end of the brake wire........

.....does anyone know what this might plug into and why would they supply these kind of brakes? Would these have anything to do with regeneration, for example

 

[Russell]

You should have started a seperate thread but here goes;



The BAT connector goes to your battery, RED to (+), Black to (-). The third wire, usually a smaller gauge red wire is for a key switch. If a key switch is not used then simply connect it to the larger RED wire to turn on the controller.

The Hall connector goes to the motor. The motor has 3 Hall-Effect sensors to determine motor position which the controller uses to time the "firing" of each phase.

The 3 Phase power wires go to the brushless DC motor.

The Throttle cable goes to the throttle. A regular throttle uses a 3-pin connector and a throttle with LED's generally use a 4-pin like that. If you don't have the matching throttle you should make sure you have the pins oriented correctly before connecting the throttle. You can normally depend on red and black being +/- but the throttle signal wire can be green, blue, white or really anything. If the fourth pin does power LED's it will have the full battery voltage on it which will fry your throttle if hooked up wrong.

The 2-wire Brake connector is generally used with replacement brake levers which are equipped with normally open switches. With most controllers the "E-brakes" simply disable the controller when the brakes are used as a safety measure but on other controllers, like the one in this thread, the brake line enables motor braking and regen. You should know what type of controller you have before using it.

If the controller is part of a complete kit it should essentially be plug 'n' play.

-R

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Apologies for that. I meant to start a separate thread but I hit reply instead. Please ignore and carry on regardless.

 

[full-throttle]

This controller is available for 25$US from http://www.bmsbattery.com/product_info. ... cts_id=106. It appears to be the same controller as here: http://www.lsdzs.com/e/ProView.asp?ProId=327

They are entirely different controllers.

 

[DISH]

This controller is available for 25$US from http://www.bmsbattery.com/product_info. ... cts_id=106. It appears to be the same controller as here: http://www.lsdzs.com/e/ProView.asp?ProId=327

They are entirely different controllers.

They are the same controller. In fact the second link is where BMSBattery is getting the controllers they are selling.

At the time this review was started the photo on the BMSBattery website was WRONG. BMSbattery has the same WRONG photo posted for all three controllers that they presently sell. As of today the photos are still WRONG

The description on the BMSbattery website is also inaccurate. All they did was cut and paste the product description and don't really seem to know much about what they are selling. The description on both websites seems to be describing features of several different controllers. I informed them about these errors quite some time ago but so far they don't seem interested in correcting the errors.

The info I posted here is based on my own personal experience as well as several others that have recently purchased the 12 MOSFET controller either directly from the BMSBattery website or from eBay seller ecitypower.

The 12 MOSFET controller is an EXCELLENT controller. It's a shame BMSBattery is doing such a poor job of marketing this item. Based on my communication with BMSBattery the main problem seems to be issues with the English language.

 

[full-throttle]

Dish,

The internals of the BMSBattery controller are different to the internals of lsdzs controller.

The pictures of the BMSBattery controller (you have posted previously) show a SunplusIT SPMC65SF112A quad-pack CPU and IRFB360& fets, lsdzs has two Cypress CY8C24423 SSOP CPUs and IRF1010E fets.

 

[DISH]

The internals of the BMSBattery controller are different to the internals of lsdzs controller.

The pictures of the BMSBattery controller (you have posted previously) show a SunplusIT SPMC65SF112A quad-pack CPU and IRFB360& fets, lsdzs has two Cypress CY8C24423 SSOP CPUs and IRF1010E fets.

Thanks for pointing this out.

I noticed that also and the lsdzs website does indeed state Cypress CY8C24423 based at:
http://www.lsdzs.com/e/ProView.asp?ProId=327

When I asked BMSBattery about this they said they are the same controller as that is their supplier. However, communicating with BMSBattery is difficult to say the least as they do not seem to understand English and quite often the replies I get are difficult to understand.

Do you own either of these controllers and if so how long ago did you purchase them? I'm wondering if there have been some recent design changes and the websites need updated?

MORE LIKELY is BMSBattery doesn't have a clue as to what they are selling. The person I communicated with (if you want to call it that) admitted they don't know much about the controllers they are selling.

That is starting to become QUITE obvious

So unless there have been some recent changes, the lsdzs connection appears to be BOGUS!

Thanks full-throttle. In the future I'm going to pay a LOT less attention to what BMSBattery is saying...

NOTE: I went back and added the following to the first post in this topic:
===== UPDATE: 2009 NOV 16 =====
The lsdzs connection was based on information that BMSBattery sent to me and may be BOGUS as the lsdzs controller appears to use a different uP (Cyprus). Thanks go to full-throttle for this info.
=====

 

[DISH]

I see BMSBattery has changed the photo for the 12 MOSFET controller to this:

And they have the SAME PHOTO posted for the 6 and 9 MOSFET controllers. In the past the 6 MOSFET controller had a smaller length case. I think it still does and they have the WRONG photo posted once again.

Based on the length / width of the controller in the above photo, my guess is this is one of the smaller controllers and NOT the 12 MOSFET controller. My guess is it's the 6 MOSFET model as I think Rusell has the 9 MOSFET model and it had the same two white wires as the 12 MOSFET model which are used to program motor direction. The wite wires appear to be absent in the above photo.

This photo doesn't even have the same color or number of wires coming out of it as the 12 MOSFET controller they recently shipped to me.

9 MOSFET controller photos can be found here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13659

Ecitypower is the seller name BMSBattery uses on eBay...