BMSBATTERY 36V Controller Wiring Diagram

[johnamon]

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have a wiring diagram / photo for the BMSBATTERY standard 36V controller that they could post here? I have not received a wiring guide with my kit and am still awaiting an email response....

There are also a couple of wires included in the kit which are too short - the main wires between the battery and the controller and the controller to the motor.

Can anyone suggest the correct wire gauge to use for these missing cables (36V 350W motor) - it looks like I'm going to have to extend them myself!

Thanks again in advance.

John

 

[DAND214]

Hi John,
you can look here for the wiring hookup http://www.ecitypower.com/index.php?option=com_weblinks&view=category&id=19%3Accd&Itemid=93
As for short wires, you will need to match the wire size as it sounds like the phase and hall wiring plus the battery cable.
This must be a frt hub with rear battery. Photos might also help.
Dan

 

[d8veh]

Make sure you do the self-learning procedure by joining the appropriate wires, opening the throttle and then disconnecting them. To join the battery, the best wire is the silicone rubber covered 32 amp wire. I think it's 12 gauge. You can get it from some model shops or e-bay as the radio control people use it a lot for their lipos. I've got a paper copy of the wiring diagram for the 36/48v 12 mosfets universal controller if you need it. The 9 mosfets one is downloadable as mentioned above.

 

[johnamon]

Thanks Guys,

I appear to have a KU-93 controller, not actually listed on the ecitypower.com site, but by poking around the site I managed to find a 6Mosfet datasheet which is very similar. Once I get some 12 gauge wire I'll get an opportunity to fire it all up and find out what I have!

Thanks again,

John

 

[johnamon]

Hi All,

I have received the following wiring information on the ecitypower KU-93 controller from BMSBattery:

Power wire (3 P Plug)
Red: Power Anodic
Black: Cathodal
Orange(small wire)ower key on/off lock
Connect Red to Orange(small wire): power on.
Disconnect Red to Orange(small wire): power off.

Motor wire(3*Φ4 bullet holes)
Yellowhase A
Green: Phase B
Blue: Phase C

Motor hall sensor wire(6P Plug)
Red :5V;
Black:GND;
Yellow:Hall phase A
Green:Hall phase B
Blue: hall phase C

1+1 Pedal assisted wire (3P SM Plug)
Red :5V
Black: GND
Blue: signal

Throttle wire (3P Plug)
Orange: 5V
Black: GND
Blue: signal

Low voltage brake wire (2P Plug)
Yellow: signal;
Black: GND

Speed limited wire: a pair of SM plug(white wire)
Plug in: Speed limited
Disconnect: Speed unlimited

Cruise wire:a pair of SM plug(blue wire)
Connected: Cruise
Disconnected: no Cruise

I'm a wee bit confused as to how there is no self learn mode... On the remainder of the KU series of controllers the white wires seem to be self learn mode wires. Seeing as I don't want speed limited (the indicated function of the white wires above) - to be safe I'll probably temporarily connect the white wires and spin the motor up then just disconnect them.

Cheers

John

 

[d8veh]

On mine the speed limit wires are indeed white. The self-learn wires are blue.

 

[d8veh]

Sorry, forgot to mention that mine doesn't have cruise control. This is the 350w 9 fet controller. My 350/500w 36/48v universal controller does have cruise control, which is a grey loop and the self-learn wires are white!

 

[martinwinlow]

Hi,

Likewise just imported the KU93 kit with 36V 15AH Alu shell battery. No wiring diagram which is a shame as the rest of the kit seems pretty good - for the money! Took 7 days with DHL.

I have the downloaded the document titled 'KU93 9Mosfets High Speed Brushless Motor Controllor Diagram' from BMSBattery and see that the speed control can be either by 3 speed switch (plus 'off' I suppose) or the twist grip option (my choice) - there is a plug on the controller for both.

Questions, then:- I gather you can use the kit wihout the crank hall sensor connected and also that the brake lever switches, when pulled, 'make' or connect the 2 wires and consequently can also be left un-installed without affecting the operation of the controller. Obviously, it would be better (safer) if the switched brake levers were installed but I'd rather not as it is going to clutter things horribly and, after all, how hard is it to remember to close the throttle when braking anyway? You do it on a motorbike/moped...? Any input from users on this one?

Most of the other connections are obvious - or certainly so with the help of the KU93 download - but for one issue... how to connect the main power from the battery? This is a 'C13' (mains appliance-type) socket which has 3 pins and the controller power connector has 3 wires... one thick and red - obviously what BMSBattery call ''Power Anodic' ie 36V positive, another fat black one, equally obviously 'Power Cathodal' ie 36V negative (or rather 0V) and a small red wire. Interpreting the download, apparently I need to connect this small red wire to 36V+ to activate the controller - disconnect it to de-activate the controller.

Having switched on the battery with the key (again a diagram showing what position does what would be nice), looking at the C13 socket with the battery sitting flat on the table (socket on left of shell), I get 36V+ on the left pin and 0V on the right pin and nothing on the centre one. So I am assuming the fat red wire from the controller goes to the right pin on the battery socket (despite it being marked 'N') and the fat black wire goes to the C13 0V (despite it being labeled 'L'). Can someone confirm this is correct? If so, I gather I could just leave the small red wire and the fat red wire connected permenently inside the C14 plug - or alternatively wire them to a kill switch or 'immobiliser'?

Also, can someone advise if it is normal for the motor wheel spokes to be not straight? Quite a few of mine just don't seem to be in the right holes (hub and/or rim) to allow the spoke tensioners to seat propperly making the spokes distort into a slight bow rather than being straight as in a normal wheel?

Lastly, does anyone know how hot the KU93 is likely to get as I would like to hide it in an ABS box below the battery (mounted on a rear rack) for neatness and additional weather proofing. Anyone have any experience?

Thanks in advance. MW

 

[d8veh]

Shame on you for not figuring out. The wiring instructions are on the BMSBattery website; find the KU93 controller. Underneath are tabs - something like "Data", "Dowload" and something else; click on the download tab and there you'll find a pdf with the instructions. If you need any more help ask again, because the instructions can be a bit confusing unless you know about these things.

All your wiring assumptions are correct. I have my battery in front of me and it's the same.

Regarding the thin red wire from the controller to the battery connector: You can cut it and put a switch on the handlebars to act as a "standby" switch.If you have their throttle with LED lights on it and switch, you can join the wire from the LEDs to one of the switch wires and join it to the controller side so that the throttle LEDs go off, when the controller is off, or you can join to the battery side if you want the LEDs on all the time the battery is on.

It's normal to see slightly bent spokes, and it's also not unusual to have loose spokes, so, when you ride the bike and you hear them creaking, you need to tension them properly.

The KU93 doesn't get very warm under normal conditions and it shouldn't be a problem putting it in a box, provided you don't go full throttle all the time.

Finally, check that the colours on each side of the connectors match. It's not uncommon to have different wiring sequence on each side especially the throttle and pedal sensors. If they're wrong, you have to swap the pins.

 

[martinwinlow]

@d8veh

Hi and thanks for taking the trouble to reply.

As it happens, I did figure it out and got the beast going after my post (I had already downloaded that pdf, too BTW - see para 2 of my first post!). It does seem a shame that BMSBattery won't go the extra mile (well, 2 feet really!) and provide good instructions - with photos - and a proper wiring diagram including all the optional extras they could be selling and making money on, like lights, power monitors and speedo, horn(!?) etc, etc.

It is quite good (so far)!

One point worth mentioning for the benefit of others... the fuse in the shell battery pack blew almost immediately. It is a 25A one in a 32mm x 6mm format ('GA3') - I assume 'slow blow'. Reading about this, I gather it is not uncommon for this to happen as the fuse is probably cheap and therefore likely to blow at any current but also not necessarily designed for this specific application. 30A is a more suitable rating for my 350W motor at 36V (the KU39 is a 400W controller I gather). I couldn't get a replacement short of ordering a pack of 10 from Radio Spares (not expensive - just rare) so drilled a 1.5mm hole in both ends of the blown fuse, got some 5A domestic fuse wire from Maplin (just down the road from work) and poked it through the fuse holes and soldered it in place.

5A mains fuse wire you might imagine, is capable of taking around 1000W at 240VAC. So I naively imagined that should be fine for my 500W'ish controller. Not. As soon as we tried it in the bike, the fuse blew again. A little investigation on the interweb revealed why. Basically fuses are currant sensitive devices not power sensitive ones (forgive me if you know this already). Ergo, 5A is obviously insufficient. Put 3 strands twisted together in and that was ok but still probably insufficient. In truth, the rating probably could be 50A without issue as this fuse (the one in the battery pack) is really only designed to protect the pack from a catastrophic short circuit, like wiring the + and - wire together. For more on fuses see http://www.littelfuse.com/data/zh/Product_Selection_Guides/Fuseology.pdf Generally the fuse should be 25% over rated so 22A x 1.25 = 27.5 ~ 30A.

Anyway, off to test it now that it is back at home on a 4 mile circuit around the house - anyone got any suggestions for an iPhone app to map my route, plot speed etc and calculate power use (including going up and down hills)?

MW

 

[Peter Brigg]

It looks as though we have the same problem.I am the post one above you "How I have found a supplier" by Peter Brigg
Seems like I have run across the same problems as you-bought stuff from BMSBattery and there are no instructions and a few wiring bits are either too short or missing.
Nothing too serious at this stage-just got to get the info right-the quality of the components seems OK but the after sales service is lacking.
I suspect they deal with bike shops who know from practice how to put this stuff together.
I have some photos on my post that I put there today-they may help you.
Some of the stuff on this post is really useful to me also.
Regards
Peter

 

[wesnewell]

This is the KU93 controller.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/363-universal-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html

 

[d8veh]

Anyway, off to test it now that it is back at home on a 4 mile circuit around the house - anyone got any suggestions for an iPhone app to map my route, plot speed etc and calculate power use (including going up and down hills)?

MW

Best to start a new thread, but I can personally recommend Bikemate GPS and B.icycle. I think Bilemate is cheaper.

 

[martinwinlow]

Just done my first 4 miles with BMSBattery's KU93 controller and 36V LiPO alu shell battery on a 26" wheel - my friends bike saddle is a bit hard for my bony, old a*$e. So I'm having a break - and a coffee - to give it a rest.

Couple of q's - , I get quite good torque - good hill climbing - but not especially awesome top speed on the level (I did take my iphone running Roadbike app but I didn't start it properly - try again later). Can anyone suggest what sort of top speed I can expect from this setup?

Make sure you do the self-learning procedure by joining the appropriate wires

@ d8veh - Is this required for my set up, do you know? No mention on the KU93 'instructions' pdf (above) for 'self learning'..? What limits the top speed? Would a 48V pack improve it?

Lastly, with this set up and with the motor mounted in alu forks and with only one what I call a 'torque washer' on one side (see photo) - the other one can't go on as it doesn't leave enough axle thread for the nut - am I likely to need a torque arm?

Regards, MW

 

[d8veh]

Top speed of a code 15 at 36v is about 17mph. At 48v, you'll get about 22mph
The KU93 doesn't have self-learning IIRC
You definitely need torque arms. The BPM motor can make a lot of torque. I wouldn't run a 250w motor with only one anti-rotation washer in let alone a BPM. The alloy in the drop-outs isn't strong enough on its own and when it fails, you'll go straight over the handlebars. The anti-rotation washers are designed to go on the inside of the forks, so there should always be enough thread. The wheel normally needs to be dished to get it central. Did you add spacers instead? Also, because the axle is larger diameter, you normally need to deepen the drop-outs by filing to get the axle central to the drop-out, otherwise they're not deep enough to accept the tab of the anti-rotation washer. If you don't get the axle central and you have a dimple for a washer in your drop-outs, you can break off the drop-out just by tightening the nut.

 

[martinwinlow]

Thanks d8veh,

OK, 48V it is then! And, I might as well get a 500W motor and KU123 controller. I'll keep the other stuff for my bike (doing all this for a friend who wants to ditch his car but has a 14 mile commute).

Any helpful hints on spoking, stringing (whatever its called) my wheel to the motor?

Yes, I noticed that I had the A/R washers on the wrong way round today whilst browsing BMSBattery's online motor diagrams. I should have twigged when I was assembling the kit. It is (IMHO) another good reason for BMSBattery to include BASIC instructions (very basic in my case) with their kits.

I will order a torque arm pronto.

Thanks again. MW.

 

[d8veh]

If you have a welder, you can weld an arm or plate directly to the anti-rotation washers for a perfect fit on the axle.