Hello folks, I am new here, and honestly new to the whole e bike world. I bought myself a conversion kit, and am working on installing it. My kit came with little to no instructions. only one sheet regarding how to set the display. that's it. It included a couple replacement brake levers with built in switches. Using these supplied levers is going to propose a problem in my build as my bikes factory lever mounts have the integrated shifters. My question is what exactly are these switches for? Are they really needed? If so, I suppose I will need to find myself some different shift mechanisms, but? Thanks in advance
Brake Switches
- Thread starter fidorama
- Start date
tomjasz
1 GW
Motor cut out switches. Stops the motor when you brake, quite handy actually. Which kit?
You can get aftermarket brake cutouts, "brake sensors" to add and keep your current levers. They are a very good idea.
http://bfy.tw/3aHV
You can get aftermarket brake cutouts, "brake sensors" to add and keep your current levers. They are a very good idea.
http://bfy.tw/3aHV
wesnewell
100 GW
If you have regen or electronic braking they also engage that. The switches provide a short when engaged.
Ykick
1 GW
Here's a link (and another in last post) about different switching options which don't require using those poor quality brake levers supplied with majority of kits.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65798&hilit
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65798&hilit
Ok that may certainly be helpful. I may have to do something like that. Thanks guys. I am not sure what brand my kit is? I got it off ebay. I wish I would have taken the time to research a bit more, I have found links to companies and sites, and learnt a fair bit once I came across this forum. I think my wheel has a sticker that said "power wheel", but don't quote me on that, as I am currently at work and cant look now. It a 1000W rear hub drive with what the listing said is a 48V sine wave controller. The control box says 36/48 volt but I don't recall seeing a brand name on it.
I have a somewhat basic understanding of electronics, so please correct me if I am wrong, but from what I am getting, the bike may be able to function without these switches? Like I stated in my initial post I am green to e bikes, and obviously still have a lot to learn. :lol: Unless there is some sort of cruise control I am not really sure why it needs a cut out? I am under the assumption the power is controlled by either the throttle or pedal sensor, so should cut off as soon as you let off? And I have no idea if it has regen, or e braking? It looks like everything else seems fairly strait forward.... so far. I am still unsure of what I am going to run for batteries, that's what I starting to look at now. Thanks again
I have a somewhat basic understanding of electronics, so please correct me if I am wrong, but from what I am getting, the bike may be able to function without these switches? Like I stated in my initial post I am green to e bikes, and obviously still have a lot to learn. :lol: Unless there is some sort of cruise control I am not really sure why it needs a cut out? I am under the assumption the power is controlled by either the throttle or pedal sensor, so should cut off as soon as you let off? And I have no idea if it has regen, or e braking? It looks like everything else seems fairly strait forward.... so far. I am still unsure of what I am going to run for batteries, that's what I starting to look at now. Thanks again
nutnspecial
10 MW
Hi and welcome, no they aren't needed.
Just like a motorcycle or car, let off the 'gas' when you hit the brake. Although, also similarly there should be at least one safety cutoff switch or mechanism on an ebike. An on/off for the controller is sufficient for a stock 1kw kit imo.
Just like a motorcycle or car, let off the 'gas' when you hit the brake. Although, also similarly there should be at least one safety cutoff switch or mechanism on an ebike. An on/off for the controller is sufficient for a stock 1kw kit imo.
wesnewell
100 GW
In an emergency stopping situation, you definitely need them if you are using cruise control and/or regen braking. And it only takes one of these situations that you wished you had them. I got stopped about and inch from a huge truck that ran a stop sign. One millisecond longer without stopping and I could have been history.
wesnewell said:
Agreed. Be sure you have cruise control disabled on the controller and CAV3 if you are using one! I took out an almost complete high powered build I had been working on for weeks on a test drive before fitting a cutoff switch and it sure was a high pucker factor when I realized the cruise control had kicked in at 50+mph and opening and closing the throttle did not deactivate it as I was needing to stop. It was not fun yanking one of the battery wires under those conditions for many reasons!!! I got home and immediately wired in a switch for regen/cutoff and clipped that cruise control wire on the controller board!
Good call. Checking your pants after a test ride should not be part of the normal building process. At least wait until you are on your 3rd or 4th bike. 
Motorcycles have that handy clutch to disengage the motor if the throttle ever sticks AND a kill switch.
Motorcycles have that handy clutch to disengage the motor if the throttle ever sticks AND a kill switch.
Leebolectric
1 kW
Yeah...the Bafang's pedal assist doesn't release power for a few seconds after you stop pedaling.
Also, it engages motor when barely turning the crank, like when putting a foot down at a traffic light.
I tried it without the e-brake switches...got me scared a few times as it pushed me forward unexpectedly.
Seems like a very good element to a system, pain hurts.
Also, it engages motor when barely turning the crank, like when putting a foot down at a traffic light.
I tried it without the e-brake switches...got me scared a few times as it pushed me forward unexpectedly.
Seems like a very good element to a system, pain hurts.
