Budget BMS on Ebay ~10

Pipi123

1 µW
Joined
May 6, 2019
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2
Hi,
Looking to build my first 36v 10s12p e bike battery from recycled laptop cells to drive a 250w brushed motor.
I need to buy a BMS and was wondering if the BMS on Ebay for about £10 are sufficient to balance the charge and presumably the discharge Voltage?
Would this do?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253816168848

Any idea what is the difference between the £10 and the £30 ones?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123566456135
 
bms must be rated for less current than the battery itself so it cn protect the battery.

pack incl batt and bms must be rated for more current than the controller will ever draw, peak or continuous.
 
laptop 18650 low discharge batteries won't be good enough for an ebike, you need powertool high drain 18650. Of the 2 bms, it looks like the cheap one can handle more watts then the expensive one. You multiply volts x amps, 1260 watts versus 720 watts. They both can handle more amps then the laptop batteries are willing to put out.

If the batteries are severely out of balance neither bms will balance them, they both balance at about 50ma which is nothing. A good balance charger for example balances at about 1000ma (or 1 amp).

Laptop batteries will heat up too much and the voltage will sag if you try to use the bike at full power. But I have seen people on youtube use them on bikes. And your motor is only 250 watts, so it might work on level ground. Going up hills might present problems.
 
Do you have the model # of the good balance charger that can do 1 amp?

How do I work out how many amps my battery pack can put out? Would 2amps per cell be over optimistic?
12 in parallel could do 24 amps?

Would this BMS be safer?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302990812863

I'm planning on using a brushed 36v 250w My1016 motor with a 350w controller.

Can the motor draw more than 250w?
250w/42V= 5.9Amps?
Or is it
350w/42V=8.3Amps
 
Cotnrolelr current limit determines current pulled from bateries. Limit printed on controller is probably it's continous limit, may peak higher.

some brushed contorllers don't actually limit the current, and just have a power rating on them for what they can handle before you blow them up, so you then have to be careful not to exceed that by manually monitoring and limitng your throttle usage. you'd ahve to check the controller specs to find out.
 
amberwolf said:
bms must be rated for less current than the battery itself so it cn protect the battery.

pack incl batt and bms must be rated for more current than the controller will ever draw, peak or continuous.
Don't many setups bypass the BMS on power cables, IOW not rely on them for overcurrent protection?

That non-BMS OCP can then act as a failsafe limiter on the controller, right?
 
john61ct said:
Don't many setups bypass the BMS on power cables, IOW not rely on them for overcurrent protection?

No, a few people with really high current stuff, hundreds of amps, and/or hundreds of volts, do this, because either no BMS exists that does it, or costs too much for their budget.

Most normal low to medium power systems use the BMS to shut off it's own output or input if any of the conditions it's designed for occur.


Some people don't run any BMS at all (like me) because they're just that certain their cells are all well-matched (thus will stay balanced), and use some other system for HVC and LVC. That could be the Cycle Analyst or similar system watchdog, controller, charger, or completely manual control.
 
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