Build Thread: best bang for $1000

I'm with SamD.
MXUS 3000W + Infineon 12x4110 + 20S-10Ah hard case packs.
Will get you 40+ mph easily. Probably closer to 45mph.
 
Is there something special with 20S batteries? Because they are cheap and plentiful?
When you say hardcase you mean the 14.8V 5Ah 4S1P ones from Hobbyking? So you want to be around the 74V mark? Lots of controllers to choose from?
 
so as of tonight i have a platform;

i rode it home and its like a barge, its xl and it could easily do with being xxl but it will do the job, brake are getting upgraded to hydraulics

going to order batteries, bag, charger and motor tomorrow.
 

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Much crap removed, going to go fixed 52/15

Adjusted the brakes and they now work well.

Leafmotor kit is in the post.

What's the best street tire? Also what's the easiest way to rig the pack to charge off a single connector? I.e. just plug in when I get home.
 

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i have run a little simulation at;
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
- motor is mxus as the leafmotor is not in their system - just after a ballpark range

based on using 5 x Turnigy 4500mAh 4S 30C Hardcase Pack (ROAR APPROVED)
 
What's the best street tire?

Lots of opinions on this. I have heard the RiBiMo 2.0-inch is well-regarded for a 24mm/1.0-inch wide rim, the CST-Cyclops 2.4-inch wide or Hookworm 2.5-inch is well regarded too, but they appear to fit better on a rim that is roughly 32mm/1.3-1.5 wide rim.
 
If you check your own data, you'll overheat that little MXUS XF 07 motor in 2.2 minutes. I'm not familiar with that motor but it can't be rated much more than 250W. If you're looking fro a good street tire, it's going to be hard to beat the CST Cyclops Pro. And they aren't expensive at under $15 each.
 
Cool bike. This is what I turned my Avalanche into. Yescom 1000w, Lyen 9fet, Calibike batt 48v15ah. The only thing I would have done differently would be getting a higher voltage batt. The multistars 16ah are the way to go. No need to parallel. Just series those suckers
 

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If the bike is excluded out of the cost, then you couldn't go wrong building a faring. Your range per cost ratio regarding your battery pack, as well as your top speed per dollar spent on ev parts, will improve dramatically, provided your route is anywhere from moderately hilly to flat(steep mountains would be an issue that negates much of the advantages of the faring).

Type in "bicycle faring" in some image searches and find some ideas.

There exist many 3/4 wheeled velomobiles and 2-wheeled streamliners where you only need 1 kW to do over 50 mph whereas an unfared competition road bike on flat ground with no wind would struggle to do 35 mph on 1 kW electric assist plus vigorous pedaling from the rider of 300W or more, and a DH/mountain bike would struggle to exceed 30 mph on that same 1 kW.

$1,000 could get you more than a reliable kW to play with, if you pick your parts wisely. Overvolting a cheap kit and using a modded Infineon controller by Lyen with cheap hobby king Li Poly is one way to get that on the cheap, but far from your only option depending on what you're willing to compromise.

Safely doing 50 mph, without significant expense on modifications to the bike chassis, could be an issue. $1,000 may not get you a lot in regard to that unless you can do custom work!

If you want to keep it simple, 30-35 mph would be all that you can reasonably expect for that $1,000, but you need not limit yourself to that if you're willing to put in the work.
 
Toecutter, I agree with everything you have said and the idea of a bent ebike is not one I am against - just need to find one suitable for urban roads.
 
I never recommended a bent, specifically. Your current upright donor could still have a very practical faring of some sort on it.

Check out the following:

http://www.lightningbikes.com/f40/

Something similar to this Lightning F-40 road bike faring will likely increase your top speed by 50% or more versus an unfared bike, assuming that you have the gearing to reach it.

The F40(identical in drag to the F90) has a CdA of only 0.144m^2, less than 1/3 the drag of an upright road bike.

http://billmegalos.com/union/Gerry_Pease-Aerodynamics_Vs_Weight.pdf

Here is a list of bikes, their respective CdA, and cruising speed at 150W.

http://www.adventuresofgreg.com/HPVlog/01-09-05.html

Compare this to what is currently your unfared bike with the overall CdA of a small car! Cut that drag, and you can not only cruise at 22 mph with 150W of pedaling and no electric assist, but get 45+ mph on 1,000W! :twisted:

A small 1 kWh battery pack, without pedaling, at 20 mph, with discharge limited to 80% of the pack, could potentially get you close to 100 miles range at that speed. With pedaling, this would increase both speed and range considerably.
 
in the process of buying battery packs. HK are out of the 16000mah 4s multistar which looked good at around $100 aus

this means i am thinking about buying 15 Turnigy 5000mAh 4S1P 14.8v 20C Hardcase Packs and wiring them 3s5p to get to 7v @15ah which will give me a range of about 30km wide open (80%dod) or 28wh/km - not sure if this is reasonable.

calc attached, i am on holiday for a fortnight but plan on ordering these from HK and returning to build this thing up

thanks for you help so far

tom
 
Hi Tom
How are you going to charge your lipo batteries.
If you stick with a 12s setup balancing cells when charging is easy there are lots of chargers that will balance 12s so no need for a bms if your controllers lvc is set correctly
 
How to be unpopular..

Tell a newcomer to the hobby to calm down on the speed. Buy a good motor (MXUS or Leaf) a proper controller and a decent Li ion battery 18650, and grow into messing with Multistar packs. Ride now, burn down the garage later. ( you don't have to but why not enjoy riding while you learn to manage a fussy battery system)
 
Pretty good advice there Tomas
 
Thanks for you input guys.

I have decided to go with this battery;
Turnigy 5000mAh 4S1P 14.8v 20C Hardcase Pack
and use 10 in a 5s 2p configuration, then if i find the range is a bit shy of what i want i can sling another row in to make it up to 15ah

has anyone used this type of charger? - i want simple and reliable.

http://www.batterysupports.com/72v-74v-84v-3a-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-charger-20s-20x-36v-p-170.html

what else does it have to do other than cut out at a specified voltage?

i want to set it up so when i get home i can plug it in and charge it easily.
 
That's a bulk charger. If you want to use a bulk charger, you need some way to balance the pack. Either a bms or multiple battery medics to use with that charger. The easiest would be a bms.
 
ok, so if i use this;

http://www.batterysupports.com/72v-84v-20s-60a-20x-36v-lithium-ion-liion-lipo-battery-bms-p-415.html

I assume i buy just if i run 10s 2p??

thinking about buying this;

http://www.batterysupports.com/72v-74v-84v-3a-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-charger-20s-20x-36v-p-170.html

has anyone tried this - will it work for 74v 10ah?
 
That's a 20s bms. It will work well with the 20s charger. I assume you have a 72V controller.
 
Who's going to go to vt~05 house and help him wire up all these packs and help him charge this battery ?
Vt~05 how much experience do you have with rc lipo ?
 
It ain't rocket science.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+wire+a+bms
 
it ain't rocket science but it could cost me $300

i think i can wire it in but i have not found the answer to this question - if i run 20s 2p - can i parallel the cells into the bms? or run two bms boards?

kindly answer the question
 
vt-05 said:
i think i can wire it in but i have not found the answer to this question - if i run 20s 2p - can i parallel the cells into the bms? or run two bms boards?
You can parallel as many cells together as you want into 1 bms. I don't remember what type cells you're using, but you parallel them all the same. Like this shows.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/lipo.html
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=39666
 
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