Building/Repairing 2011-14 Pedago Interceptor?

[EmDee]

Avid cyclist, I know a fair bit about bikes, engineer by trade, and am generally mechanically inclined, but electronics is a bit less so...

I volunteer as a bike mechanic at a community bike shop, and a 2011 Pedego Interceptor was donated "with issues". I can get it for a song, since often times non-working ebikes are more trouble than they're worth for us to repair. Battery I was told, and sticker says it was rebuilt in May of this year, 15 AH, 48V. The battery alone is reason IMO to try and salvage this, as that's valuable (with a working bike...)

It has no display, just a throttle on right side, and the wires were torn. I researched as best I could, 6 wires, figure +48V/GND, On/Off Switch, and +5V in, variable 0-5V Out.

Connected them, and throttle lights up, battery has charge per multimeter and it's check button, switch works, but no +5 in, and with nothing in, obviously no throttle response. Presumably that 5V comes from controller...

Also took a battery at 1.5V to the wires, thinking maybe an external 1.5V signal might be enough to fool the controller into thinking it was a throttle signal, but no dice.

Bike is from 2011-2014, and controller has a 2014 stamp. Looks like it may have been mickey moused in, connections were decent for DIY, but below what I would have thought for professional, so not sure if it's been tinkered with already.

Would any old amazon 48V 500W (which I believe the motor is) controller do the job? Is there any way to confirm the motor actually functions without a controller?

I'm also worried about starting yet another project that becomes more trouble than it's worth, more clutter, and if it might be just easier to salvage the battery and wait for a newer more functional donation that I could just splice the battery in. But waiting for another 48V, decent shape except for the battery donation could be a futile exercise in patience.

 

[amberwolf]

The couple of pedegos I've worked on were typical sensored geared hubmotors capable of 300-500w or so.

The batteries on them were 36v.

The PAS was a common three-wire type that probably works on most of the typical PAS-capable controllers.

Throttle, same deal. (one of them had a battery level meter on the throttle, so had an extra wire for that, but it doesn't have to be used).


It's pretty likely that most of the typical KT controller + LCD kits would work with any or all of those parts.

If you have a 48v battery, get a controller that's marked for 48v, so that everything in it will "just work". same for 36v.

You can probably *use* either one with the other, but LVC and battery meter and stuff like that won't do the job they're meant to. And you might run into other issues, though the hardware will not blow up from it.


If you want to just use the system as-is first, and it's missing the display, you can look up the wiring for the brand of controller it has (you don't list that in your post), and connect the battery + on the display connector to the "ignition" or "keyswitch" wire, so tha tit powers the controller. Until you do that the controller brain doesn't get any power from it's built in PSU.

Just don't connect random wires to figure it out, becuase battery voltage to anything ohter htan the two wires it's supposed to be on will prbably blow up the controller.