I know people have built centrifugal clutch equipped bikes in the the past, to overcome 'sensorless start' issues with some fine electric motors like astro, and they are otherwise useless on electric motors.
However, I want a system that can isolate a motor from transmission, be reasonably light, and most importantly allow regen braking as well (my end goal is 500+ km rides in hilly terrain on very heavy, but very aero recumbent, so YES, this is absolutely viable, I've run the numbers - hopefully I'll get the shell finished this winter).
Minimoto clutches/gearboxes like this:
https://aliexpress.ru/item/32810843398.html
Seem a very good 'two in one' fit - 4.5 first stage reduction, relatively light and compact, doubles as shaft support! Designing and ordering laser cutting of an adapter plate is really not hard.
Problem is, however, that typical minimoto clutches are press-fit over a tapered 15-12mm axle and require a special instrument (clutch puller) to uninstall.
THIS, however, seems very interesting:
https://aliexpress.ru/item/32949414652.html
For 10mm shaft with a keyway!
You'll still have to get creative a bit with installation, but 8080 motor with 12mm shaft stepped to 10mm and keyway machined seems an excellent fit. I presume massive springs means it engages at very high RPMs, but than replacing the springs with lighter ones should be easy.
A question though - did anyone here experimented with such an arrangement? I know this is suboptimal when it comes to starting (lots of waste heat from pad friction engaging halfway), but I'll have a typical freewheeling motor for that, this will be relegated mostly for assist uphill AND regen downhill. Once back on the flat, slowing down a bit and commanding high regen current should instantly disengage the clutch from the drum... to prevent the same during braking, I intend to use 'duty cycle mode' of the VESC that keeps constant RPM, varying regen/assist watts to keep it constant.
This seems better than a friction drive - while heavier and more complex, this should be much more efficient in actual operation: (provided that I'll do most of the braking/acceleration on RPM range where clutch is solidly engaged), no tire wear, no rampant slipage when wet.
Did I miss something? After all, this system was never intended to be 'regen braked', IC motors are incapable of that, but than the pads should be indifferent to force vector, and I doubt that there are helical gears anywhere on that reducer...
However, I want a system that can isolate a motor from transmission, be reasonably light, and most importantly allow regen braking as well (my end goal is 500+ km rides in hilly terrain on very heavy, but very aero recumbent, so YES, this is absolutely viable, I've run the numbers - hopefully I'll get the shell finished this winter).
Minimoto clutches/gearboxes like this:
https://aliexpress.ru/item/32810843398.html
Seem a very good 'two in one' fit - 4.5 first stage reduction, relatively light and compact, doubles as shaft support! Designing and ordering laser cutting of an adapter plate is really not hard.
Problem is, however, that typical minimoto clutches are press-fit over a tapered 15-12mm axle and require a special instrument (clutch puller) to uninstall.
THIS, however, seems very interesting:
https://aliexpress.ru/item/32949414652.html
For 10mm shaft with a keyway!
You'll still have to get creative a bit with installation, but 8080 motor with 12mm shaft stepped to 10mm and keyway machined seems an excellent fit. I presume massive springs means it engages at very high RPMs, but than replacing the springs with lighter ones should be easy.
A question though - did anyone here experimented with such an arrangement? I know this is suboptimal when it comes to starting (lots of waste heat from pad friction engaging halfway), but I'll have a typical freewheeling motor for that, this will be relegated mostly for assist uphill AND regen downhill. Once back on the flat, slowing down a bit and commanding high regen current should instantly disengage the clutch from the drum... to prevent the same during braking, I intend to use 'duty cycle mode' of the VESC that keeps constant RPM, varying regen/assist watts to keep it constant.
This seems better than a friction drive - while heavier and more complex, this should be much more efficient in actual operation: (provided that I'll do most of the braking/acceleration on RPM range where clutch is solidly engaged), no tire wear, no rampant slipage when wet.
Did I miss something? After all, this system was never intended to be 'regen braked', IC motors are incapable of that, but than the pads should be indifferent to force vector, and I doubt that there are helical gears anywhere on that reducer...