Charger advice for 18 volt NIMH battery packs?

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Hello All:

The LION batteries for my set of Porter Cable cordless tools recently died, so I bought a few 18 Volt NIMH battery packs to keep the tools running. Here are the battery packs on Amazon.

The original LION charger that came with the tools is not compatible with these packs (obviously), so I am looking for a good third-party charger. I have actually tried this one. It's OK as a quick "field" charger, but it does not provide the ability to discharge and cycle the batteries automatically.

Can anyone recommend a third-party charger that will get me the best possible performance from these battery packs?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!
 
Many of the RC chargers can do multiple chemistries, and if you can add balancing cables to the packs those chargers can usually monitor individual cells during charge or maintenance modes. There's a few threads about hobby chargers like these, though most here are using them for lithium:
a few threas show up in these searches;
others turn up with specific brand names
etc

Main thing to remember about NiMH or NICd is that they generally have to have a temperature sensor in them that is monitored by the charger, as when those cells reach "full" they then collapse voltage downward to a lower stable voltage and all that excess energy is turned into heat. If charging continues during this the packs can get hot enough to explode or cause fires.

Many chargers use Delta-T method (above) for determining when the charge ends; some use Delta-V, some use both.

The temperature sensor must be the same type the charger being used expects; if it isn't you'd have to install a new one that is.
 
Thank you very much, amberwolf. I greatly appreciate the detailed explanation and links. I did have a look around several of those forum search results, and I researched some options that were mentioned. The link below is for a Tenergy 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger. It appears to do what I need, but the description seems to be somewhat contradictory with respect to the voltage availability for charging NIMH batteries (12v max vs. 18v max).

Would you (or anyone else) be able to comment as to whether this charger is appropriate for my 18v NIMH battery packs? And if the maximum voltage is actually 12v, would it be possible to charge the individual cells without cracking the battery open each time? If not, what other model of charger would you recommend?

Thank you very much! (from a total newby :)

 
BTW - Below is the contradictory information from the Amazon and Tenergy websites:

From Amazon Description: Works with multiple voltages - Compatible with battery packs with voltages that ranges from 6 to 12 for nickel metal hydride or nickel–cadmium battery packs and Lithium-ion battery packs with voltages from 3.7 volts to 22.2 volts (1s-6s).

From Tenergy website: Compatible with battery packs with voltages that range from 1.2 volts to 18volts (1S-15S) for nickel metal hydride or nickel–cadmium battery packs and Lithium-ion battery packs with voltages from 3.7 volts to 22.2 volts (1S-6S).

There is also a photo with the specs on the Amazon website. Strangely, those specs agree with the Tenergy description rather than Amazon's:

Tenergy NIMH Charger Compatibility.JPG
 
This SKYRC IMAX B6 EVO B6 Mini B6AC V2 Battery Balance Charger 6A 1-6S RC Charger looks very nice and appears to have all of the features I need. The problem is I cannot figure out whether it has the requisite voltage for my 18v battery packs!

 
BTW - Below is the contradictory information from the Amazon and Tenergy websites:

From Amazon Description: Works with multiple voltages - Compatible with battery packs with voltages that ranges from 6 to 12 for nickel metal hydride or nickel–cadmium battery packs and Lithium-ion battery packs with voltages from 3.7 volts to 22.2 volts (1s-6s).

From Tenergy website: Compatible with battery packs with voltages that range from 1.2 volts to 18volts (1S-15S) for nickel metal hydride or nickel–cadmium battery packs and Lithium-ion battery packs with voltages from 3.7 volts to 22.2 volts (1S-6S).

There is also a photo with the specs on the Amazon website. Strangely, those specs agree with the Tenergy description rather than Amazon's:

View attachment 380125

FYI - I just received this back from the folks at Tenergy. Looks like it will handle an 18 volt battery pack:

Thank you for contacting us.

We can confirm that the Tb6B is compatible with the following batteries:
1.2 volts to 18volts (1S-15S) for nickel metal hydride or nickel–cadmium battery packs
3.7 volts to 22.2 volts (1S-6S) for Lithium-ion battery packs

For more videos about TB6B, please see below:
How to use Tenergy TB6B charger
 
Why not buy new LION batteries?

Why do you want to discharge batteries? Battery will discharge when you use tool.
Thanks for asking, Marty. The new LION batteries are much more expensive (about $26 each for a 6.0 Ah LION batt, compared with $7.50 each for 4.8 Ah NIMH batts. I got them on a "buy-two-get-two-free" sale at Walmart). The new LIONs are not compatible with my original Porter Cable LION charger, so I still would need to buy a multi-chemistry charger anyway.

The charge/discharge cycling requirement comes from my understanding that, while NIMH batteries don't exhibit the exact same "memory" issues as NiCads, their usage life can be reduced considerably if they are run down and charged from zero on a frequent basis. I was hoping to get a charger that helps me to condition the batteries from time to time so that I can maximize their performance and overall lifetime.
 
The problem is I cannot figure out whether it has the requisite voltage for my 18v battery packs!
The questions you'll need to answer, for any charger you are looking at, is:

How many series cells are your packs?

How many series cells of the chemistry you have does the charger support?

How many series cells does the charger have a connection for? (assuming you want to monitor individual cells)

What is the max charge current the cells can handle?

What is the charge current of the charger, and is it adjustable?
 
Thanks amberwolf :) I appreciate the concise summary (y) I will open up one of the battery packs tomorrow to take a look, and take some photos so that folks can see what I'm dealing with. More to come....
 
Thanks amberwolf :) I appreciate the concise summary (y) I will open up one of the battery packs tomorrow to take a look, and take some photos so that folks can see what I'm dealing with. More to come....

Here are some internal photos of the pack.

1. There are 15 count of 1.2 volt cells. I assume the black wires with the little bead on top are a temperature sensor.
2. I got this Tenergy TB6B charger from Amazon today. It does support a maximum of 15 cells for NIMH
3. It appears to me that I can only connect to the ends of the series (i.e. the full 18 volts). But I am game to solder a few wires to the contacts, if necessary.
4. I am not sure of the max charge current each cell can handle. Is that something I need to look up in the specs for the actual cells? Of can I deduce/calculate it from the overall power pack spec?
5. According to the charger manual, the max charge current of the charger is 5 amps, and it is adjustable.

So...what is my best strategy here? Charge the whole series at once? Or connect separate wires and pass them through the plastic case (safely terminated) to try balancing the cell voltages? Also, how does the temperature sensor connect? Do I need to order a special plug/connector for it?

Any help is appreciated :)

IMG_0659.JPGIMG_0660.JPGIMG_0661.JPGIMG_0662.JPGIMG_0664.JPGIMG_0665.JPGIMG_0666.JPGIMG_0667.JPGIMG_0668.JPGIMG_0670.JPGIMG_0671.JPG
 
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Here are some internal photos of the pack.

1. There are 15 count of 1.2 volt cells. I assume the black wires with the little bead on top are a temperature sensor.
Probably. To use it with the Tenergy charger, you must find out what resistance it is and what it's beta is. If you look around the web there are places that tell you how to do this. I looked it up for someone else some time back so you may find links to one of these sites in my posts from then (at least several months ago, probably more). These are usually NTC.

If the sensor is the right resistance and beta for the Tenergy, or the Tenergy is programmable for the actual resistance and beta of the sensor you have, you can use it. If it is not the right one, you will have to replace it in order to use the Tenergy's DeltaT function (which may be required to use the Nixx charge profiles****).

However, the sensor in it's present location cannot monitor the cells closely enough--it only monitors air temperature inside the pack, as a general "help I'm overheating" warning. It would need to be inserted between the cells, preferably at the center of the mass of the cell block.



2. I got this Tenergy TB6B charger from Amazon today. It does support a maximum of 15 cells for NIMH
3. It appears to me that I can only connect to the ends of the series (i.e. the full 18 volts). But I am game to solder a few wires to the contacts, if necessary.
If that charger has a balance connector with at least 17 wires available, then you can use it to individually connect to each cell for testing, etc. (15 cell sense wires, plus main pack + and -. There are some that only have 14 sense wires, and actualy use the main pack leads as the sense and ground for the ends, but this can affect the readings on the most positive cell).

If it doesn't have enough wires for that, and only the main pack + and -, you'd only be able to "bulk charge" it, no cell-level monitoring. (the charger may only be capable of balance/monitoring Li-ion, and so may only have 7 or 8 wires on the balance connector, which couldn't be used with NiMH/NiCd).

Most NiMH and NiCd packs only get charged in bulk, meaning just main + and -, but if the charger is capable of monitoring the cells it doens't hurt and the information might be useful to keep track of the state of health over time.

4. I am not sure of the max charge current each cell can handle. Is that something I need to look up in the specs for the actual cells? Of can I deduce/calculate it from the overall power pack spec?
What is the charge current for the manufacturer charger for those packs? That would be a reasonably safe baseline to use.

If you don't know / cant' find that, you could try looking up the info on the cell wrappers. If that doesnt' turn up any info, you can look up the lowest charge current that this size of cell (whatever it is) is generally capable of, and use that.

If you charge them at excessive current, it could damage them, or worse--it would have to be a lot higher than they're intended to charge at, but not knowing what that is.....



Also, how does the temperature sensor connect? Do I need to order a special plug/connector for it?
That depends on the Tenergy's connector(s). You'd need to have whatever kind it expects. Some of these hobby chargers include connector pigtails for this, some don't.
 
If you want a battery charger for PORTER-CABLE 18 -Volt Nickel cadmium (NiCd) battery's. Why not buy a PORTER-CABLE 18 -Volt Nickel cadmium (NiCd) Charger?

Here is one.
Hi Marty:

As I explained above, I do already have one of those NiMH chargers (this link, from my first post). And it does work fine for topping up NiMH batteries in the field. But if that is all I use, the batteries will eventually lose storage capacity since: (1) I have no way of telling how far down the batteries are being depleted while I'm working, and (2) that charger does not allow for a proper maintenance discharge and recharge cycle. That is the purpose for getting a more sophisticated smart charger. Does that make sense? Feel free to correct my logic if I am wrong about all this :)
 
I could be wrong but I think you are thinking too much

(1) I have no way of telling how far down the batteries are being depleted while I'm working,
When tool stops working. Battery's are depleted.

(2) that charger does not allow for a proper maintenance discharge and recharge cycle.
If you think discharge and recharge cycle is maintenance? Flashlight is fun tool to discharge batteries. Have you seen the light?
 
I use CCCV voltage boosters, or voltage buckers to charge pretty much every battery that is not my power tool batteries.

I use an inline wattmeter on the input and output and dial in the charge voltage and dial the amperage to my desires.

I installed a single cell AA Eneloop NIMH inside a beard trimmer that I use a CCCV voltage bucker for charging, from a 12v DC source, and just take it off when it gets warm, I think I have the charge voltage up around 3.24v and it charges around 0.3 amp, iirc. The battery is over 12 years old, and has plenty of capacity remaining

Regarding the adapters to use one battery brand in another battery system. This can be detrimental depending on the battery and tool system.

Dewalt basically has the low voltage cut off in the tool. If you use a Dewalt battery in a Ridgid tool for example, you will be able to overdischarge the battery and damage the cells and the dewalt charger will not try and charge it anymore.

The adapters also introduce more resistance which causes voltage drop under higher loads, which can make the tool feel sluggish.

I have many adapters, and I use them often, but the Dewalt battery I have is basically ONLY for dewalt tools as it has no protections inside the battery itself. I do have a hot glue gun which takes a dewalt battery, and it will happily overdischarge and destroy the Dewalt battery, if I forget and leave it on.
Old Makita batteries also did not have proper low voltage, and I have noticed my more modern makita batteries will not shut off as 12.5v, which is 2.5 volts per cell. maybe it cuts off at 2.44? i dont know, When I saw it was at 12.5v and still allowing discharge I removed the load.

I am not sure about every battery system out there, as to which have a low voltage disconnect inside the battery. I know Ridgid batteries have the LVD in the tool, and I am impressed with the build quality of my Ridgid batteries. I want to put some Ampace JP30 into one 2.0Ah ridgid battery that is registered for the LSA. I voided that LSA opening it up to have a look inside, and then waffled on removing the Lishen 2.0ah 30 amp cells as it looked so well built.

I use my Ridgid batteries in Makita and Ryobi tools without fear, and I also have used my Ridgid batteries to power a voltage booster set to 42V to charge my Esk8 battery at the park at upto 150 watts for the full 72 watt hours it claims to have. If I were to use my Dewalt battery for this, It could easily be discharged well below 12.5v, and damage the cells.

Since the Makita's dont shut off at or above 12.5v in my experience, I will not use them outside a Makita tool anymore. I can also feel my leaf blower really tank in power when voltage falls below 14, and try my best to never let it shut off on its own, as those 10 more seconds are just not worth the detraction to battery life, in my opinion, when it draws the cells below 2.5v.

I used to have a 18v porter cable drill with NIMH battery think it was 19.2v, cant remember. The transformer based charger it came with fried itself and the new charger was way too expensive. When the battery got pretty weak and I wired it up to 24volts of sealed AGM for doing wire wheel work and such, and just to get my money's worth out of the drill.
 
I could be wrong but I think you are thinking too much


When tool stops working. Battery's are depleted.


If you think discharge and recharge cycle is maintenance? Flashlight is fun tool to discharge batteries. Have you seen the light?
From the Tenergy website:

"NiMH batteries - like any rechargeable battery - will self-discharge if left unused. Generally, within 30 to 60 days, batteries will become almost completely drained. When using them, you will need to first recharge them. After extended storage, you may need to cycle them several times just as you would for their first time use or even condition the batteries several times to regain normal performance."
 
Probably. To use it with the Tenergy charger, you must find out what resistance it is and what it's beta is. If you look around the web there are places that tell you how to do this. I looked it up for someone else some time back so you may find links to one of these sites in my posts from then (at least several months ago, probably more). These are usually NTC.

Thanks amberwolf. I ordered some temperature sensors directly from the charger company. Probably better than trying to retrofit some brand-X sensors from a Chinese parts bin :ROFLMAO:

If that charger has a balance connector with at least 17 wires available, then you can use it to individually connect to each cell for testing, etc. (15 cell sense wires, plus main pack + and -. There are some that only have 14 sense wires, and actualy use the main pack leads as the sense and ground for the ends, but this can affect the readings on the most positive cell) .......... Most NiMH and NiCd packs only get charged in bulk, meaning just main + and -, but if the charger is capable of monitoring the cells it doens't hurt and the information might be useful to keep track of the state of health over time.

I'll need to check to see how many wires are available. Seems like it may be a stretch to solder 17 wires to the various points in order to externalize a connector! We'll see just how ambitious I am :) I am fine with bulk charging, but I agree with you that it may be nice to check on the health of the individual cells from time to time.

What is the charge current for the manufacturer charger for those packs? That would be a reasonably safe baseline to use.

If you don't know / cant' find that, you could try looking up the info on the cell wrappers. If that doesnt' turn up any info, you can look up the lowest charge current that this size of cell (whatever it is) is generally capable of, and use that.

The factory multi-chemistry charger that I got from Walmart says the output current for NiMH batteries is 2.0 amps, so I will consider that as a "not-to-exceed" charging level (y) In fact, until I get the correct temp sensors, I am just going to program the charger for a 0.5 amp trickle charge, and monitor the heat level manually.
 
I am having no success at all charging these NiMH battery packs to anywhere near their 4.8 Ah capacity, and I would greatly appreciate some help.

As previously mentioned, I have the Tenergy TB6B charger. I have been manually cycling the battery packs from a discharge at 15.3 volts cutoff, to charging with three different current levels: 0.5 A, 1.0 A and 1.5 A. I have even tried using the much faster 2.0 Amp field charger, but the results are the same. While I do not yet have a compatible temperature probe (long story....see P.S. below), I have manually monitored the temperature of the batteries, and they remain pretty cool regardless the charging current. I can feel a very slight temperature change starting at 1.5 A, but it's very subtle.

The charged capacity has slowly increased a little each time, having started out around 250 mAh on the first charge and have now reached 1,100 mAh (less than 1/4 of their capacity). The bottom line is that, even after five or six cycles, they have not attained more than that. I have varied the NiMH sensitivity from 5 mA to 10 mA. The time cutoff and capacity cut-off have proven to be irrelevant so far, since the charger stops after about 50 to 70 minutes, flashing "FULL", and the stated capacity of 4,800 mAh remains distant dream.

The above data has come from two out of the four batteries -- and they both behave similarly -- so I'm pretty sure it's not just a fluke issue. Does anyone have an educated guess for what I should try? Any help would be appreciated :)

P.S. Tenergy Sensor story: The sensors advertised on the Tenergy website are NOT compatible with Tenergy chargers! (go figure :unsure:). I ordered four of them to install permanently in my 4 batteries, but they do not work. I am in a conversation with customer service to get them to pay the return shipping before I order the correct ones from Amazon.
 
stated capacity of 4,800 mAh remains distant dream.
Many batteries for sale exaggerate Ah's. Copy what you bought from first post.

"2Pack Replacement 4.8Ah for Porter Cable PC18B 18Volt NiCd PC186CS Battery PCC489N PCC489N PC188 PC1800D"

Note the word Replacement. If you really must have 4.8Ah? Batteries from Porter Cable would probably perform better.

What I would do. Put battery's in tools and build a boat.
 
Yes, absolutely. I agree with you 100% (y)

But I'll admit to being a physicist. And I don't get to deal with batteries much. So I'm trying to take it as an opportunity to learn about the different chemistries and how they work. It's just an interesting learning process (for me, at least)
 
Yes, absolutely. I agree with you 100% (y)

But I'll admit to being a physicist. And I don't get to deal with batteries much. So I'm trying to take it as an opportunity to learn about the different chemistries and how they work. It's just an interesting learning process (for me, at least)
Ah, well fair enough. I haven't spent much time on NIMH in awhile...
 
I am having no success at all charging these NiMH battery packs to anywhere near their 4.8 Ah capacity, and I would greatly appreciate some help.

As previously mentioned, I have the Tenergy TB6B charger. I have been manually cycling the battery packs from a discharge at 15.3 volts cutoff, to charging with three different current levels: 0.5 A, 1.0 A and 1.5 A. I have even tried using the much faster 2.0 Amp field charger, but the results are the same. While I do not yet have a compatible temperature probe (long story....see P.S. below), I have manually monitored the temperature of the batteries, and they remain pretty cool regardless the charging current. I can feel a very slight temperature change starting at 1.5 A, but it's very subtle.

The charged capacity has slowly increased a little each time, having started out around 250 mAh on the first charge and have now reached 1,100 mAh (less than 1/4 of their capacity). The bottom line is that, even after five or six cycles, they have not attained more than that. I have varied the NiMH sensitivity from 5 mA to 10 mA. The time cutoff and capacity cut-off have proven to be irrelevant so far, since the charger stops after about 50 to 70 minutes, flashing "FULL", and the stated capacity of 4,800 mAh remains distant dream.

The above data has come from two out of the four batteries -- and they both behave similarly -- so I'm pretty sure it's not just a fluke issue. Does anyone have an educated guess for what I should try? Any help would be appreciated :)


It's likely that the cells you have either are not what they say they are, or are damaged or used / worn out. (even if they were purchased as "new" parts). A search for the markings on the cells in your pics finds this on aliexpress
Great price for a 1.2 ah battery... but where is the other 3.6 ah i was promised? Yeah, this is just another case of blatantly lying about the capacity of the battery. This is a 15s battery with 15 ceenr-jh 1.2v sub-c nimh cells probably rated at 600mah. So, that means you're getting a bog-standard replacement for the oem ryobi first-gen nicd replacement. It'll charge on the oem chargers, but it won't last any longer than your worn-out batteries. As a test, i ran this through the charge-discharge cycle twice and came out right at 1.2 amp-hours. The case is cheap abs plastic and not nearly up to the same standards of even the old batteries. But... for the price, i'll give it three stars. Don't be fooled by the 4.8ah rating. It's a lie!


If it's not that, then:

Voltage: What are the actual individual cell voltages during charge, and afterward? If one or more is higher than it may be overcharging, while the others are never being allowed to charge to full because the total voltage is reaching the cutoff point before that happens.

Temperature: As I recall back when I used NiMH, they were getting pretty warm. (I was using some Tenergy charger, I think, but don't recall the model. There's probably more info in the DayGlo Avenger thread.) If they aren't, then they may not be reaching full charge. You might need to leave them on the charger (restarting charge as many times as necessary) until they do increase temperature, as they continue to absorb charge...but...see the article I quoted at the end of this post (that didn't exist back when I was using these) that has more modern info.

If you're shutting off charge manually when a "full pack" end voltage is reached, be aware that this is not normally how NIXX chemistries work--they continue to charge until after they have reached full end voltage, and continue to absorb charge, until the voltage collapses back down. All that "extra" charge is now dissipated as heat. NiMH less so than NiCd, but still part of how it usually works.

Not all charge methods do this--some systems that prevent cell heating may use something like the Li-ion CC/CV method instead, where the voltage always remains at the lower of the voltages, and instead it "trickle" charges the cells for a much longer time until the current drops to a certain point (if you leave it to continue eventually it may begin heating the cell anyway, or overcharge it and damage it). Similar to the way other chemsitries charge, but not exactly the same.

P.S. Tenergy Sensor story: The sensors advertised on the Tenergy website are NOT compatible with Tenergy chargers! (go figure :unsure:). I ordered four of them to install permanently in my 4 batteries, but they do not work. I am in a conversation with customer service to get them to pay the return shipping before I order the correct ones from Amazon.
That's terrible, but not terribly surprising. Can't count the number of times people have posted buying "kits" of things where various parts included cannot be made to work together, with or without significant DIY. :( Have had the issue myself more often than should happen over the years, though usually with "random" sellers than "big name" sellers that "make" their own stuff.


BU-408: Charging Nickel-metal-hydride​

Know how to apply the correct charge to moderate heat and prevent overcharge.

The charge algorithm for NiMH is similar to NiCd with the exception that NiMH is more complex. Negative Delta V to detect full charge is faint, especially when charging at less than 0.5C. A mismatched or hot pack reduces the symptoms further.

NDV in a NiMH charger should respond to a voltage drop of 5mV per cell or less. This requires electronic filtering to compensate for noise and voltage fluctuations induced by the battery and the charger. Well-designed NiMH chargers include NDV, voltage plateau, delta temperature (dT/dt), temperature threshold and time-out timers into the full-charge detection algorithm. These “or-gates” utilize whatever comes first. Many chargers include a 30-minute topping charge of 0.1C to boost the capacity by a few percentage points.

Some advanced chargers apply an initial fast charge of 1C. When reaching a certain voltage threshold, a rest of a few minutes is added, allowing the battery to cool down. The charge continues at a lower current and then applies further current reductions as the charge progresses. This scheme continues until the battery is fully charged. Known as the “step-differential charge,” this method works well for all nickel-based batteries.

Chargers utilizing the step-differential or other aggressive charge methods achieve a capacity gain of about 6 percent over a more basic charger. Although a higher capacity is desirable, filling the battery to the brim adds stress and shortens the overall battery life. Rather than achieving the expected 350–400 service cycles, the aggressive charger might exhaust the pack after 300 cycles.

NiMH dislikes overcharge, and the trickle charge is set to around 0.05C. NiCd is better at absorbing overcharge and the original NiCd chargers had a trickle charge of 0.1C. The differences in trickle charge current and the need for more sensitive full-charge detection render the original NiCd charger unsuitable for NiMH batteries. A NiMH in a NiCd charger would overheat, but a NiCd in a NiMH charger functions well. Modern chargers accommodate both battery systems.

It is difficult, if not impossible, to slow charge a NiMH battery. At a C rate of 0.1C to 0.3C, the voltage and temperature profiles do not exhibit defined characteristics to trigger full-charge detection, and the charger must depend on a timer. Harmful overcharge can occur when charging partially or fully charged batteries, even if the battery remains cold.

The same scenario occurs if the battery has lost capacity and can only hold half the charge. In essence, this battery has shrunk to half the size while the fixed timer is programmed to apply a 100 percent charge without regard for battery condition.

Many battery users complain about shorter than expected service life and the fault might lie in the charger. Low-priced consumer chargers are prone to incorrect charging. If you want to improve battery performance with a low-cost charger, estimate the battery state-of-charge and set the charge time accordingly. Remove the batteries when presumed full.

If your charger charges at a high charge rate, do a temperature check. Lukewarm indicates that the batteries may be full. It is better to remove the batteries early and recharge before each use than to leave them in the charger for eventual use.

Simple Guidelines for Charging Nickel-based Batteries​

  • The charge efficiency of nickel-based is close to 100 percent up to 70 percent charge. The pack remains cool but it begins to warm up with decreased efficiency towards full charge.
  • Nickel-based batteries must cool down on trickle charge. If warm, trickle charge is too high.
  • Consumer chargers do not always terminate the charge correctly. Remove the batteries when warm to the touch. Discontinue using a charger that “cooks” batteries.
  • Charge at room temperature. Do not charge when hot or at freezing temperatures. (See BU-410: Charging at High and Low Temperatures)
  • Nickel-based batteries are best fast charged; a lingering slow charge causes “memory.”
  • Nickel- and lithium-based batteries require different charge algorithms. A NiMH charger can also charge NiCd; a NiCd charger would overcharge NiMH.
  • Do not leave a nickel-based battery in the charger for more than a few days. If possible, remove the packs and apply a brief charge before use.
 
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