Cheap 3 kw hub motors?

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Feb 6, 2019
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I'm doing an e bike competition with a few of my friends shortly after quarantine is over. There is an acceleration component to winning, so I would like to have a lot of power for cheap. We are budget limited, so just wondering what the best value 3 kw+ motor is for under maybe $250? What do you guys suggest? Edit: Used is okay :)
 
$250 (I'm assuming USD) 2nd hand is probly the only way you'll find some thing for that price in 3kw motors shipped . But if you want a new one, have a look on aliexpress at the plethora of generic 3kw motors there.
 
Em3Ev 3 kw motor, I'd say? mebbe?

Cheap. Check. 3 Kw, check.

https://em3ev.com/shop/3kw-rear-direct-drive-hub-motor/

FYI, just so you know, "cheap" and " fast " is rarely the best combo.. lol. All the best for you.
 
At $250 you will be shit out of luck for a fast hub motor. You need an overall budget of at least $1500 and then you can build something pretty decent (but with limited battery capacity).

If acceleration is important you will want a lengthened wheelbase because any halfway-decent hub motor is wheelie limited on the start, even with you over the bars. The start is also where the motor provides the most force so if you can use all this force it will give you a big starting advantage.

If you just want to do short drag racing, focus getting a controller that can supply enough current to totally saturate the motor, since it will take it for very short periods and you will get maximum acceleration.
 
kdog said:
$250 (I'm assuming USD) 2nd hand is probly the only way you'll find some thing for that price in 3kw motors shipped . But if you want a new one, have a look on aliexpress at the plethora of generic 3kw motors there.

We're totally okay with second hand motors, just unaware of decent cheap hubs that can handle a lot of power. It only needs to handle it for a few seconds, that's all the drag race is.
 
DogDipstick said:
Em3Ev 3 kw motor, I'd say? mebbe?

Cheap. Check. 3 Kw, check.

https://em3ev.com/shop/3kw-rear-direct-drive-hub-motor/

FYI, just so you know, "cheap" and " fast " is rarely the best combo.. lol. All the best for you.

I wouldn't be riding this bike on a daily basis after the competition :D I'm weird but I think I would take my slowish cyclone middrive e bike over a hub motor. Just curious why you don't think it's a good combo though? The biggest criteria for the competition is the acceleration so as long as it can go 0-20 very quickly I think it's a viable option for us.
 
flat tire said:
At $250 you will be shit out of luck for a fast hub motor. You need an overall budget of at least $1500 and then you can build something pretty decent (but with limited battery capacity).

If acceleration is important you will want a lengthened wheelbase because any halfway-decent hub motor is wheelie limited on the start, even with you over the bars. The start is also where the motor provides the most force so if you can use all this force it will give you a big starting advantage.

If you just want to do short drag racing, focus getting a controller that can supply enough current to totally saturate the motor, since it will take it for very short periods and you will get maximum acceleration.

So actually this is what we were thinking of doing. The acceleration run is only from 0-20 mph, and we wanted to use one of those Kelly 110 amp controllers to power the motor for a few seconds so it can get to 20 mph as quickly as possible. I'm sure most motors rated for 2-3 kw can take 7000+ watts for a few seconds.
 
A QS205h50v3 can safely take 26kw for a few seconds. 7000 watts is well within the 35mm stator domain. If you plan feeding it with a Kelly 110A, you are very far from using full acceleration capability of a motor that is rated 3kw continuous. I feed mine 100v hot (24s lipo) and it does see 25kw in acceleration everyday. You need a 250A controller to use full power of the QS205h50. The v3 is 279$, plus 100$ shipping at least for motor alone. The v1 might still be available, and will have the same power for cheaper.
 
Pretty much any hubmotor on high power to only 20 mph will be a rider's race for who can put the most throttle without too much wheelie. They will hit 20 pretty much instantly.

Kelly is bad for this cuz their controllers have lag. Harder to ride. Since you're on a budget see if someone has a used controller, ideally ASI BAC cuz those things pair well with hub motors and can be configured for an extremely responsive torque based throttle. But maybe powervelocity or something cuz that's a lot cheaper. I have a 150V / 150 battery amp powervelocity controller with 300 phase amps I can sell you cheap to get started. Say like $200. It's not as good as ASI but I used it on my QS205 V3 for a while and it put out almost 20kw peak.

For battery obviously you will want RC Lipo high discharge / small pack.
 
speedyebikenoob said:
maybe $250? What do you guys suggest? Edit: Used is okay :)

You could probably find a used mxus 3kw, or QS equivalent in the ES Used Section for local pickup. Shipping that heavy beast will be $125 minimum, probably more like $150 to $180 for just the hub.

High power and cheap do not mix.

What controller do you plan to use, and what about the battery?
 
You need an electric scooter hubmotor, and I don't mean one of those standup toy scooters. You can find entire scooters with dead batteries for dirt cheap, and you need something with a small wheel like that. You also want a cheap steel frame bike, so you can extend the swingarm for a harder launch without flipping.
 
John in CR said:
electric scooter hubmotor, and I don't mean one of those standup toy scooters. You can find entire scooters with dead batteries for dirt cheap, and you need something with a small wheel like that.

Something like a monster hub of some sort right :wink:

The naming of scooters dilemma, you nailed it with the correct terminology.
What do you call a sit down moped that is a scooter and what do you call a stand up kids toy that is a scooter. I guess its just that, sit down scooter vs stand up scooter. Always good to have more definers, so: sit down moped scooter, stand up toy scooter.
 
OP:

I built the best bike I could using med-high quality parts. Got a fast bike that loves to go up anything at around 35mph.. very quick from 0-25 and has served me well. I went full budget considerations... used used parts wherever I could.. and the only "new" things were really some parts here and there.. and the 200$ Qs205 V1 35H motor (Amazon) ... Built a good competitive hurt-yourself-on bike for .... $1300 total. Minus labor.. with pretty much the bare min for a bicycle conversion that sees these speeds. Downhill full throttle I get to 49mph.

1300$.

Cheapest I could do, and that is considering the frame was only 9$, cracked and repaired.

Still... $1300.

85 lb. Lighter you are, the faster you are, and speed is what wins races, among other things... , I hear. The lighter you want to be, the more you pay ( exotic materials, ect).

flat tire said:
Kelly is bad for this cuz their controllers have lag.


For battery obviously you will want RC Lipo high discharge / small pack.

I dont think my Kelly has any lag, or at least not much at all if any. Im genuinely scared of the throttle. I have read the reports that some do... and some bikers hate it... but my bike? It'll hurt you fast from a standstill. Maybe it is cause I'm not that heavy .. (170lb. ) Smack ya on the forehead right before it breaks your leg with the ground. On my bike. Wheelies fine from 1-15mph easy peasy and its not light. I cant really do an unpowered whellie by pedaling like I can with the BBS02 I have.. that thing is lighter still.


...or an EV battery.. a recycled EV battery.... in leui of the RC lipo... if you are into recycling and diy...
 
The OP wants to win a 0-20mph race, and that can't be done with the high center of gravity and short wheelbase of any common bicycle unless that's the only competition. Sure they can have fun acceleration, but a bargain basement build electric bike using cheap salvaged parts can easily have scary acceleration.
 
Yep. The best bike for this is long and low, on small wheels.

Yet, 0-20 is too short to make the best bike a sure winner. On such a short acceleration, the starting reflex of the rider is a major advantage. Start with a tenth of a second delay from your opponent, and you’ve lost even with twice the power.
 
Here is an option if you want. Good price for what ya get,.. a laced wheel on a new motor, MSRP about 400$?

He is a member here if I think correctly... I first saw that wheel/motor on the classifieds here... but cannot find that link now.. so pawn through the classified section here and you can find him... get around the eBay fees.

I'll confirm that this motor will put you on you ass if you have powerful enought controller.. In a sprint. Long term duty it will overheat.. but It took 8Kw for 700 miles for me.. Lol.

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/QSMOTOR-10...tem2d0e926523:g:KfUAAOSwxOler1UF&LH_Auction=1
 
You're talking about a drag bike, 0 to 20, and it only has to make one run or just a few runs to win the money, right? Buy the cheapest geared used hub motor you can find, get the most voltage you can afford even if it's lead acid batteries, and wire it up w/ an on-off switch and a kill button, no controller. Controllers are for sissies w/ a drag bike.

Ideally you'd want a 24V motor and about 100 volts from the battery. More would be even better. Might want to drill some holes in the motor casing to hopefully get some of the heat out. I would think that for such a short run, there is no such thing as too much voltage. You can buy 8, 12v 5AH sealed lead acid batteries on the site below for less than $100, and that's w/ shipping included. Mount them toward the front of the bike to keep the front wheel on the ground at the start. That setup gives you 96 volts and less than 30 lbs of weight. Increase your budget a little and you could get 150-200 volts, but the extra weight gets a little tricky on a bike.
https://www.batterysharks.com/12-Volt-SLA-Batteries-s/1213.htm

If you have a lot of time on your hands you could take about half the wire off the armature windings and get that motor voltage reeeeely low. Easier to just add more juice though. Forget the idea of 0 to 20. With multiple bikes, everyone is going to have their own idea of what "20" actually is. Make it from a standing start to maybe 50 yards, something like that. You'll need someone to drop the flag at the start, and having someone else make a video of the race would be nice :]
 
You really think that voltage can make magic and transform a small geared motor into an acceleration monster?

Watts are power, and small motors can’t be fed any substantial amount of watts. Case closed.
 
Hey MadRhino, we know it can make magic
that is no problem at all


Magic Smoke that is


MadRhino said:
You really think that voltage can make magic and transform a small geared motor into an acceleration monster?

Watts are power, and small motors can’t be fed any substantial amount of watts. Case closed.
 
DogDipstick said:
Em3Ev 3 kw motor, I'd say? mebbe?

Cheap. Check. 3 Kw, check.

https://em3ev.com/shop/3kw-rear-direct-drive-hub-motor/

FYI, just so you know, "cheap" and " fast " is rarely the best combo.. lol. All the best for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
We buy QS and Muxxus motors factory direct. They sell by the unit, and that is where to order the winding and custom drilling that we need.
 
QS says they'll take care of you before shipping, but of course. . . . http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/2018%20new%20design%2010inch%203000W%20205%2050H%20V2%20Brushless%20DC%20Electric%20Scooter%20Hub%20Motor/182.html

http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/QS%20Motor%20Spoke%20motor%20for%20Scooter%20Type%203000W%20205%20(50H)%20V3%20in%20wheel%20Hub%20Motor/909.html

So you didn't really say what you want. "Bike" as in 20" or 26"? Scooter? Motorcycle?
 
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