Chinese 84V (72V/20S) Chargers from Ebay -- thoughts, experiences

999zip999 said:
As in my picture where would you put a fuse ?
How many amp fuse and how many ?

If power supply is rated to 15A you wanna make sure to be protected at 15A level
but 15A is not enough . because (assuming CC exists, at 15A limit) it will charge battery at 15A continuous, so If U use a 15A fuse soon it will burn. maybe at least 20A fuse to handle continuous 15A

a fuse is used in serial circuit. so u could just use a 20A fuse at the output main positive.
and add extra protection , a big diode in the output main positive. this could prevent any reverse current flow

Anyway, meanwheel are very good power supplies so maybe CC is a protection mechanism.. maybe other brands power supplies do not include this, soo thats why I said NEVER use a power supply to charge any battery :idea:

Why someone wants to charge a battery with a power supply?? U know there are chargers for charging batteries safe.
Soo why to go on crazy experiments.. Just for fun I know :lol:

Congrats for power supply setup fully working and safe :thumb:
 
The best way to know if what U are doing is correct or not, is to send an email to meanwell technical team telling about your setup.
They will tell if Ur setup is safe or not to charge battery..

after U receiving an response email from meanhell team, post it here to know tha real TRUE :thumb:

fun: This remembers me people chargin 18650 cell using 5V USB AC supply. thats great and charge fine, if cell has protection it will cut at 4,2V. if not cell will go up to 5Volts..
This setup work great and safe , but is just a miniature charger could be on fire, or a simple 18650 could go on fire, not much to worry..

But scale tha problem level to a 20S battery and three high power supplies..
Maybe me just extremist or I just dont care about anything? I'm not crazy anymore :bolt:
 
Question1: I have a 12V 70Ah Varta car lead acid battery, could I use a PC 500W power supply to charge it?
Response1: Yes U can. use 12V PSU output and assume risks! :warn:

Question2: I have a 12V 50Ah LiPo pack battery. Could I use a PC 1000W gamming power supply (12V volts output @ 50A max) to charge quick my LiPo pack 12V 50Ah?
Response2: Sure Sir, it will charge quick because supply 50Ampers current to battery,maybe 1 hour charge but top cut is at 12V, means a 12,6V LiPo battery charge only up to 12V means 4V per cell 80%SOC :flame: U get success, unless anything explodes before full chargin!

Question3: Could I burn a house or do injuries with stupid experiments?
Response3: Sure, its up to you! :bigthumb:

Question4:Can I do crazy experiments using AC plus high power electronics and big batteries?
Response4: Yes SURE, and it will be a lot of fun :lol: but be on tha safe side!! :warn:

PS: I'm just wasting time doing long text nonsense posts!!
 
I like Elcon / TC HK-H 1.8kWh (‘enable mode’, aka non-CAN). Around $300-$350 shipped. Great, heavy, bulletproof unit which can be used with either 120 or 220. The supplier programs your desired max charge, you can specify 4.05v, 4.2v, etc… Charges at 800w at 120 and 1.8kw at 220. It is fan cooled but it’s not a cheap unit, I ran mine on off level 2 , in an enclosure, in the Texas sun, day in and day out, for months.
 
Jordan325ic said:
I like Elcon / TC HK-H 1.8kWh (‘enable mode’, aka non-CAN). Around $300-$350 shipped. Great, heavy, bulletproof unit which

Yes Sir, thats a real charger!! :bigthumb: maybe military grade!! 95% efficiency, CAN bus data communication, super structure and maybe full water proof. even works under a pool :pancake:
Its bulletproof, it stops a simple glock gun shoot or from multiple shots from AK47.. but if U go more caliber, maybe a mess ended charger.. destroy charger with bullets?? :lol:

I have a question What happens if U drop a 20S 84V10P battery inside a pool??
Anyone could do this experiment and record? I dont have a pool, my bad!! :thumb:

or fire a AK47 against a 20S10P battery? what would happen?? Youtube challange for DemolitionRanch guy!! hope He is reading thiss!! I'm a fan!! :bolt: :bolt:

Anyway: I like guns buy I'm against IT, contradictory . It is a lot of fun shooting against objects!!
NEVER OWN A GUN.. unless you are psychological enable and have licence plus supervision! guns destroy World. Soo use those careful!

from best chinease chargers subject to serial power supplies meanwell to guns topic?? Is that crazy? :bolt:
 
batteryGOLD said:
If power supply is rated to 15A you wanna make sure to be protected at 15A level
but 15A is not enough . because (assuming CC exists, at 15A limit) it will charge battery at 15A continuous, so If U use a 15A fuse soon it will burn.

I think you may want to look up data sheets for fuses from their manufacturers to see how they actually work. ;)

They're really meant to protect against short circuits, not overcurrents. (overcurrent protection is up to the device design, and any decent power supply will have a couple of ways to prevent that other than the fuse).

A 15A fuse should be rated to *never* blow at or below that 15A, but blow eventually at some current above that--how long it takes to blow depends on how far above it's limit the current actually is.
 
amberwolf said:
I think you may want to look up data sheets for fuses from their manufacturers to see how they actually work

Sir, I've seen many electronic components datasheet but never seen a fuse datasheet, my bad.. I will check that

by 999zip999 » Feb 11 2023 10:08pm
cited: "in my picture where would you put a fuse ?
How many amp fuse and how many ?
Charging 20s 6p @ 15amp on a 120v household circuit."

This person just want to know fuse rate and the best place for it, for his own application setup.

Do you or someone have an response to solve this person questions?
how many amps fuse for x3 meanhell power supplies setup to charge 84V battery? 1A ? 10A? 15A? 20A? 30A? 100Amps rated fuse? and voltage rate 100Volts rated fuse?
and best place for fuse? how many fuses?.. too many questions waiting for response..
 
Fuses are used to protect things. Fuse manufacturers (like Bussman, etc) have info and datasheets to help you choose the appropriate protection device for your specific application.

But in general, some questions to always ask yourself are:

What specifically are you protecting?

What specifically are you protecting against?

What is the maximum current your circuit must always be able to pass, for how long, before any protection engages?

What is the maximum current your wiring and components can handle before failure or fire, and for how long can they do this?

What is the maximum voltage your circuit will ever have across it's output, for any reason, especially at/above the current that the protection device is intended to trigger at / above?


If you're protecting against a short circuit, which is the most common usage, then a fuse rated above the current the circuit must be able to supply without fault, and above the maximum voltage the circuit will ever have across it, would be typical.


Let's say you have a circuit that may have up to 100VDC across it, at a maximum of 15A. The fuse must then be rated *at least* 100VDC, and *at least* 15A, preferably more by whatever safety margin you wish to have, but below the maximum current your wiring and other components can handle safely (let's just call that 50A for example's sake).

If it is rated lower than 100VDC, then if the fuse blows the current may continue to flow as a plasma arc across the fuse gap, which is like having an arc welder running in your wiring at that spot. Great for starting fires. ;)

If it is rated lower than 15A, it may blow under normal usage.

The maximum current rating it can have needs to be determined by the fuse spec sheet for the fuse you wish to use, to make sure it will still blow below the maximum current your wiring and other components can safely handle for the time it will take to blow.
 
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