Community Project - All.In.One CARBON FIBER DECK

I like the direction onloop, but how are the trucks going to mount? weld the bolts onto a plate and embed this under the batteries? Just want people to know you can get a lot of flex easily with carbon, it's not exclusively a rigid material. You can always tweak the layup for whatever characteristics you want, the batteries cause the flex limitations.

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Haven't done anything on it in 2 weeks, this is for myself so keeps getting pushed back, delayed with contract jobs (man's gotta eat right?). Made 6 of these from scratch in the past 2 weeks, also working on a rushed job casting samples for a local science learning centre. Anyone know the best way to cast hairy things without bubbles? need to cast some raw cotton plants and wool.

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drmacgyver said:
Maybe Hi5ber would be interested in working with ES? Eboards are big now, so it might be an interesting proposition for them to expand into the field. They're a small father-son business and seem to put out good products at reasonable prices. And supporting small businesses is always a good thing.

http://www.hi5ber.com

I been tried. He said he's so swammped and it's a family business.
 
I work in a composites lab and would be interested in prototyping and testing some of these deck designs once final layout and geometry is chosen.

With regard to flex... I am partial to a flexible board, myself. It should be possible to do a carbon/kevlar design with rigid geometric sections for battery compartments and flexible straightaways for flex.

A few details on what I may be able to provide:
molded prototypes
potential laboratory flex and max stress testing
limited run board production (5-10 over probably 6 weeks)
 
Possible battery to be used: InBoard Swappable LiFePO4 95Wh battery ($100).
Could even use two if extra range is wanted. Would provide the capability of interchangeable batteries.
http://www.inboardskate.com/shop/powershift-battery
 
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Read more on my BLOG
 
What are the dimensions and especially interior dimensions? What lipo's should fit?

I guess driving the front wheels as in a dual diagonal is not possible?

It's pretty cool.

edit didn't see the translucent panel on top. Slick!!
 
or is it just a hole in the top to see the meter and start switch? and gasket?

If water can drain into the deck then not so great.
 
CSN said:
What are the dimensions and especially interior dimensions? What lipo's should fit?

I guess driving the front wheels as in a dual diagonal is not possible?

It's pretty cool.

edit didn't see the translucent panel on top. Slick!!


no translucent top, its just a picture without the lid so you can see how stuff is fitting inside....

although if you wanted you could get a 2mm thick piece of clear perspex material made to replace the lid. The lid is not a molded piece. it is a flat sheet.. it is easy to modify & replace if needed

if you want front wheel drive you could easily drill out some holes in the front, this is DIY remember... you can do what you like. p>s. I wouldn't go front wheel drive.. there are some benefits, but not enough.
 
CSN said:
or is it just a hole in the top to see the meter and start switch? and gasket?

If water can drain into the deck then not so great.


yeah its just a cut out, you could easily put a gasket to make it water tight... i don't ride in the rain generally though
 
What is the estimated deck weight ?

What about a version with deeper compartment?
 
onloop said:

Yeah, this is much more like it. I am running a deck similar to this (will post up a build when I have time) and building a slightly modified one now. Learnt a lot of interesting things, just the little things that are overlooked when you do the big picture such as exact placement for ease of use, etc.

I should have a beta run starting soon; I have the layup sorted and all the subtle features laid out. I would be interested in commercially manufacturing the deck in future if there is the market to make it viable.
 
hey, just one thing; the common usages of having a tail on a skate/longboard:
a - to ollie
b - to manual (wheeling)
c - to lift the nose and allow to get down sidewalks (this maintain the board horizontal and avoid having the nose crushing down first)
d - to pick the board by pressing quickly on the tail.

with a carbon deck:
- (a) is not targeted or either not possible (due to the weight) but could be achieved but will damage immediately the deck
- (b) could be targeted and achieved easily; great fun; I am almost doing quite long manuals with my actual deck which has no nose / tail; just by pushing to the limit of the deck and keep the balance; also I think nose manual are more fun and nice to do
- (c) could be targeted but you need great speed and it may challenge the electronics.. but still fun
- (d) not targeted as it will damage the carbon and affect immediately the life of the board that will start to delaminate. A tail guard could be put to avoid this.

so what's the point of having a tail on a carbon deck, especially if the deck costs 300 USD?
 
okp said:
so what's the point of having a tail on a carbon deck, especially if the deck costs 300 USD?

I know this deck won't please everyone, this is the beauty of DIY E-skateboards! you can choose your own style. Eventually I will have two more shapes.
1. Deck with 1 inch drop & big wheel cut outs. great for large pneumatic wheels.
2. Deck with slightly longer wheel base. No kick. Similar shape as marbel.


For me i grew up riding skateboards with a kick. My first normal skskateboaskateboardwas with a kick. My first eboard was a Christian hosoi hammered, with kick. For me i feel disadvantaged without a kick.

Please note, this deck will have nose & kick tail protectors. It will also have a 'Kensington' style lock. Like a laptop, so you can lock your deck if needed.

Also, how can you ollie without kick? I can do kick flips on my electric skateboard. I can ollie up gutters and large cracks in the path.
 
Looks awesome! Nice work Onloop.
I ride with FWD so the motor is mounted on the front truck. Something to think about for future versions is cable cutouts near the front too. Sorry if this was mentioned already.
 
okp said:
onloop, this what not a criticism; I was wondering only the usability/functionality of having a kick tail on a carbon deck;

I think a kicktail is always useful. I wish Hi5ber sold a kicktail option as well.

The longboard with no tail is decent but for commuting kicktails are awesome for holding the board up and/or controlling the kick up. Sure, you can still kick a deck up and grab it but you can't kick it up and control it as you would with a kicktail on your deck.

Unfortunately, most of my new decks I"m going to implement don't have a kicktail either. I assume, that's most likely because I've gotten use to it. Although, after just writing this post.. I just bought a new deck with a kicktail option.
 
bandaro said:
I like the direction onloop, but how are the trucks going to mount? weld the bolts onto a plate and embed this under the batteries? Just want people to know you can get a lot of flex easily with carbon, it's not exclusively a rigid material. You can always tweak the layup for whatever characteristics you want, the batteries cause the flex limitations.

View attachment 3

View attachment 2

Haven't done anything on it in 2 weeks, this is for myself so keeps getting pushed back, delayed with contract jobs (man's gotta eat right?). Made 6 of these from scratch in the past 2 weeks, also working on a rushed job casting samples for a local science learning centre. Anyone know the best way to cast hairy things without bubbles? need to cast some raw cotton plants and wool.



View attachment 1

I'm planning on doing some casting today with not quite hairs but embedded carbon and epoxy. First a vacuum chamber that will get up to 29.5 inches of mercury at a reasonable speed and a pressure pot for the remainder of the cure is ideal but if you only have access to one a pressure pot is said to be the way to go. Also warm up the epoxy so it flows easily and less viscous when poured. That's all I can think of from my looking. A pressure pot can be made with a painter pot and a standard air compressor. Make sure the piece your doing is fully set before opening the pot :shock:. If you're more ambitious you can covert the air compressor to a vacuum or find it's intake and use it for the vacuum.

the carbon board pictured looks like it would be pretty stiff due to the box section not allowing much flex.
 
okp said:
onloop, this what not a criticism; I was wondering only the usability/functionality of having a kick tail on a carbon deck;

No offence taken. It is a valid question. Ultimately I think I need to have three different shapes to cater for the majority of people.. They will come with time.
 
When are any of these boards going to be available? Also, at what cost? It would be awesome if these boards could fit an Enertion SPACE pack. :)
 
garrettgajewski said:
When are any of these boards going to be available? Also, at what cost? It would be awesome if these boards could fit an Enertion SPACE pack. :)

Read my blog post http://www.enertionboards.com/pages/worlds-first-carbon-fiber-electric-skateboard-deck-designed-for-builders-of-diy-eboards/
 
garrettgajewski said:
When are any of these boards going to be available? Also, at what cost? It would be awesome if these boards could fit an Enertion SPACE pack. :)

I will have a model up next week for a beta run. Lead time from order will be 3 weeks for a deck with basic (single colour) graphics, full colour will be longer.

I made a thread for users to give some input on designs, http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=69759, and will keep this updated as to what is going on.

I will be offering a topmount board with a kick, and one without that can be cut for a dropthrough for those using hub motors or left as a topmount.
 
I want to do sandwich style board with maybe 3 wood laminate sheets and 5 of the common carbon/Kevlar weave. I have the weave and a vacuum bag but not the wood.

what wood would you recommend?



what epoxy would be best? something flexible?



since I don't have a mold/press I think maybe I could steam the wood in a makeshift steamer/tent on my stove. if I got the wood steamed and hold them to shape till they dry, then they would be shaped and no mold would be necessary. ? want to do it tomorrow but the shaping with steam sounds like itd take longer and Im hoping there is another way to shape them other than making a press and mold. While a foam core seems easier I don't want to deal with adding inserts to mount the trucks. wood seems simpler.

I like the idea of cutting the wood with an xacto to fit batteries.
 
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