Conway e-rider

Thank you so much;

for detail explaiantion and the photo; I will try to do wd 40 today.
Regarding to reply please see capitals below;

2. The sound issue. Following questions to you:
When do the tack tack sound appear? Only when the motor is working? YES WITHOUT ASSIST; NO TACK TACK SOUND If so, is it getting louder when you put more power to the motor?
YES IT START 1 DAY OF EVERY THREE; AND AFTER I GIVE POWER IS TACK CTACKS BUT WHEN I REDUCE A LITTLE SOUND MAY GO OFF;
ACTUALLY SOUND INCREASE SINCE LAST 400 KM ; BUT WHEN HAPPENS ITS COMING OUT MORE LOUD THEN BEFORE..
Is this sound in synchronicity with your pedaling? ı THINK ITS NOT SYNCRONISED WITH PEDAL; ONCE I TRIED TO MAKE RYTM TO UNDERSTAN IF ITS COMING CONSTANT PLACE WHERE MY PEDAL IS BUT NO; DUE TO CRANK REDUCTION ITS NOT POSSIBLE TO UNDERSTAND .Is it quiet when you are just pedaling without motor? YES Give us as much details as possible, because it is very difficult to locate the origin of the sound.
First try to spray some lubrication like WD40 into the freewheel of the 3rd transmission stage. Perhaps it helps. THANK YOU I LL TRY THIS TONIGHT; BUT I LL LET YOU KNOW IN A ONE OR TWO WEEK DUE TO MU SOUND ISSUE NOT COMING ALL THE TIME.. THIS IS THE MOST BOTHERING ISSUE; bECAUSE I GO MIN 40 KM EACH TIME; AND IT MORE PSSES ME AFTER START OF 15 KM ..
Unfortunately you cannot disassemble the freewheel without special tools. I KNOW MY COMPANY HAS A TOOL SHOP; PRODUCE INJECTION MOLDS AND AUTOMATION MACHINES BUT OUR EXPERTS EVEN SCARED TO CHECK IT :)

Read my story: After 500 km I had a fatal damage of the bearings in the third transmission stage. One bearing was totally destroyed. The mechanician of my bike dealer told me that the bearings are of asian manufacturing. I think it is the wrong way by Conway to save some money for such an expensive bike. So the mechanician changed them to SKF bearings made in Germany. But then my tack tack issue began.
It was so difficult to locate, because everytime the mechanician put it apart and back together the sound was gone for around 30 kms. But came back then. He did this like 5 times and also changed all the bearings from the second transmission stage too. Clacking sound wasn´t gone.
I then was able to locate the sound. It definitely came from the third transmission stage. The sound disappeared shortly when he sprayed lube (I think WD40) into the freewheel of the third transmission stage. So he changed the freewheel. Although everything was changed except the shaft of the 3rd transmission stage the noise was still there. So he examined the shaft. It is made of eloxated aluminium and he discovered, that is has shrunken of some reason. He said the shaft should be made of steel because the power is very high in this transmission stage. Unfortunately the spare part was not on stock, so he shipped the whole bike to Conway in Hoya, Germany. I should get it back next week and I hope the clacking sound is gone forever.

YOUR STORY IS SO HELPFUL SIR; ı HOPE MY PROBLEM IS NOT THERE BECAUSE I AM IN TURKEY AND IT WOULD BE VERY HARD TO BRING BIKE BACK TO GERMANY

IN THIS PONT MAY I ASK A FAVOR ?

THE SERVICE YOU USE; CAN PROVIDE ME ALL TOOLS THAT BIKE NEEDED ? HE CAN JUST GIVE ME CODES OR I CAN BUY FROM HIM NO MATTER; SOME HOW ITS CLEAR THAT I LL HAVE TO GET THOSE TOOLS.

PS. THIS BIKE IS SO COOL; ı L BRING A FEW MORE FOR MY FRIENDS AND MY FAMILY. SO I NED TO BE FULLY EXPERT ON THIS THING :)

TAKE CARE SIR

BEST rEGARDS;
CAN
 
@CanTurk
Yes, it is a problem to get the E-Rider serviced when you don´t live near Germany.
Furthermore your sound issue is intermittend. So it is very hard to find the origin of it.
What about riding on until the sound is permanent and loud enough to locate. Then you could try following:
Put your bike on a stand that the rear wheel can spin. Then move the pedals and turn the grip. Then try to put load on the transmission by pulling the brake of the rear wheel.
It´s a bit tricky to do so, but this way I could locate my clanking sound.
If the reason is a defective bearing (which I almost think of) then it´s no problem to buy. These are just plain industrial sealed standard bearings.

I would recommend that you don´t go to a bycicle mechanician. Go to a trustworthy motorbike mechanician. They know how to change bearings. And the construction of the transmission parts of the e-rider is quite similar to those of scooters or motorbikes.

The part which needs a pry-tool to remove (although changing bearings need special tools too) is the freewheel of the 3rd transmission stage.

Thats it from the back.

And you need this thingy to remove it. Don´t know how it´s called in english.



It´s not difficult to find.

For spare parts you can try to get in contact with Christoph from http://www.e-rider-shop.de
On his website he sells some parts for the transmission and I think he can manage to get you what you need.
I don´t know if Conway is selling parts to end customers. I don´t think so.

That´s all I can tell at the moment.
I wish you good luck in finding the tack tack.
Keep us informed.
 
Thank you so much keep informing me; I am so glad to know you.

I ll watch a few more after wd 40 that bearing; We have this tool to remove bearing;

But you are right with advise about moto bike repairer in stead of bike..

I met a guy in turkey hes coming to germany to buy an e rider for himself I ll ask him to get spares with him.

Regarding to your aliminum rod shrink issue is so interesting;

This rod must be defective fromt he beginnig right? aliminium can deform like this by time ?
 
looks like the #25chain has no tensioner? Horrible a design flaw!?

I have always had porblems with transmission of torque to the cranks, first attempt was to use a big chain ring for motor power. How may this one hold up? Isn't it too small? Realized that at Intermot last year already, now it's time to ask someone who actually owns this bike.

Lubrication3rdtrans-stage_zpsa2d818b1.jpg


How about the rear cassette.. it should wear quickly even at only 1200Watts? I calc around 1500N of chain pull which should be OK for a thousand miles.
Guess the chain from Jackshaft to cranks may be worn earlier? Plz keep an eye on that, really interesting stuff
 
Finally after 10 days I got my E-Rider back from repair. My bike dealer shipped it to Conway, because he couldn´t get rid off that annoying noise it made somewhere from the transmission drivetrains.
Now the noise is gone and it´s going smooth like on it´s first day. How happy I am after so much struggle I had.
So what was the reason for that clunking sound? I still don´t know. The mechanics at Conway don´t bother. They ripped out all the bearings (which my bike dealer already changed to high quality SKF bearings),
changed all the shafts and chains of the three transmission stages. I didn´t had to pay anything, because it´s still under warranty.
So here are some detailed photos:


Cover removed from 1st trans-stage on right side. Do you see the new bearing with blue rubber seals? The old ones were black. New chain. New shaft.


New bearing. New Chain.


Same. They glued the nut. The bearing reads SS6902 2RS C3L3.


2nd transmission stage. Left side. New chain. New bearing. New shaft.


Same view with chainring removed. It gives a good view on the shaft and the bearing.
The bearing reads S6904 2RS (SKF=61904). So It is a ball bearing.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have one drop of bitterness. The bike came back with two damages. Must have been happened on the transport. They don´t seem to care what cargo they are carrying. Garbage bags or expensive bikes. Same, same.


Damaged rear damper. This is how it looks like, when some moron crashes the seat post onto the damper.


Yep. That was the seat post.


Damaged handlebar. How can this be done?


Must have been a rough impact.

The bike dealer did some photos of the damage and promised to care for new parts.
 
As to answer the questions of Crossbreak abou wear of the drivetrains.

My E-rider has now 1150 kms on the scale. I only rode trough rough terrain. Except that repair mentioned above it didn´t have any problems. Cassette looks still good. Chain doesn´t burst when you don´t make the mistake to change gear with motor power. The double chain of the second transmission stage tends to loosen. Could have been good for another 1000 kms but I can´t tell, because they changed it during repair.
Theres one point I keep my eye on. There is obvious wearing on the chainring of the last transmission. It is made of aluminium. I think I have to replace it as next part. It is an ordinary chainring. Nothing special. I will buy some aftermarket thingy, but made of steel.


Looks like the chainring has to deal with high forces. But it´s not yet on it´s limit.
 
omg ı felt so sorry for the scratch and impacts on your bike.... :(

so annoying ; I was thinking german people take care those thing; but no difference then us I guess;

The photos are awesome...

so lightin me; I ll change first bearing than everything on the photos;

Meanwhile I noticed that you use garmin bikecomputer?

if yes let me know ur user name i get in touch in garmin connect.
 
very surprised - i was thinking german engineering on high end MTB would be more impressive...

1. why not putting BELT drive? at least on one of the stages! Really dont like the chain drive. Have been using Astro 3220 with secondary chaindrive and it was soooo annoying. Chain getting stretched, making noise ect. So i decided to go for full belt drive. Will be installing soom.

2. putting cassette with gears on that expensive bike? Why not Rohloff / NuVinvi?

I am sitting on the subject of getting MTB ebike for quite a while. Hub motor is not best solution due to suspended weight but mid-drive motors have their disadvantages too - loud as chains needed for reduction..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FNJbYtUD8Q

actually on this video the non drive reduction uses something that is more similar to belt than chain :)
 
wojtek said:
2. putting cassette with gears on that expensive bike? Why not Rohloff / NuVinvi?

I am sitting on the subject of getting MTB ebike for quite a while. Hub motor is not best solution due to suspended weight
Click to expand...
You answered your own question :)
Oh and the correct term is unsprung weight
 
by wojtek » Tue Oct 15, 2013 5:36 pm

very surprised - i was thinking german engineering on high end MTB would be more impressive...

1. why not putting BELT drive? at least on one of the stages! Really dont like the chain drive. Have been using Astro 3220 with secondary chaindrive and it was soooo annoying. Chain getting stretched, making noise ect. So i decided to go for full belt drive. Will be installing soom.

2. putting cassette with gears on that expensive bike? Why not Rohloff / NuVinvi?
Click to expand...

In response, as fullthrottle said one key advatage of gears is the lower weight compared to the Rohloff and Nuvinci.

Now regarding the belt, well their is probably a reason for that also which is efficiency ! chains are more efficient then belts and also gears are more efficient then IGHubs !

Belt drive especialy when used on multi stages will use more energy then a well lubricated chain drive. so if u add on the top the efficieny loss for a an IGH then those things would compound each other. So the bike will be slower and won't go as far with a multi stage belt drive and IGH then what they use now.
 
Megalowmax,thanks for the pics and updates.someone has to get the bugs out i guess?Should been done at the factory seems a bit strange for such a expensive ebike.
 
jk1 said:
by wojtek » Tue Oct 15, 2013 5:36 pm

very surprised - i was thinking german engineering on high end MTB would be more impressive...

1. why not putting BELT drive? at least on one of the stages! Really dont like the chain drive. Have been using Astro 3220 with secondary chaindrive and it was soooo annoying. Chain getting stretched, making noise ect. So i decided to go for full belt drive. Will be installing soom.

2. putting cassette with gears on that expensive bike? Why not Rohloff / NuVinvi?
Click to expand...

In response, as fullthrottle said one key advatage of gears is the lower weight compared to the Rohloff and Nuvinci.

Now regarding the belt, well their is probably a reason for that also which is efficiency ! chains are more efficient then belts and also gears are more efficient then IGHubs !

Belt drive especialy when used on multi stages will use more energy then a well lubricated chain drive. so if u add on the top the efficieny loss for a an IGH then those things would compound each other. So the bike will be slower and won't go as far with a multi stage belt drive and IGH then what they use now.
Click to expand...

thanks both.

so i think the concept is a bit wrong. why you would want to save few grams by not using IGH giving perfect protection against weather and one single chain line on an already heavy bike? because their aim was to make it as light as possible. Fair enough. My aim is to have reliable and well design maschine.

same wih belt. Weight and effiiency. But in return you get a lot of noise, problem with stretching and possibly breaking chain, and overall higher maintenance. I can trade efficiency over quietness and reliability.

But i do get your points and yes, unsprung weight. sorry i was reall tired and it was very late at night when writing it ;)
 
2014 Conway E-rider :

CONWAY EMR 2014 - eMountainbiking :
http://vimeo.com/78893167

CONWAY-E-Rider-Extreme-2014.jpg

CONWAY E-rider extreme 2014-160mm travel

CONWAY-E-Rider-Street-2014.jpg

CONWAY E-rider Street 2014-160mm travel

http://www.ebike-mtb.com/conway-electric-drive-series-neuauflage-des-e-riders/
 
Thank you efMX for posting the pictures of the new models of the E-Rider.
They finally managed to finish the road legal E-Rider. In Germany you need a licence plate and a drivers licence to move it in traffic.
The motor shuts off at 45 kph speed. Rumours say that they will use the same software for the offroad E-Rider, so that it will be speed limited too.

Significant changes:
- They will be equipped with the NuVinci N360 hub, which offers seamlessly shifting even under full torque. I think a feature good chosen, because shifting the E-rider with conventional gear shifters needs practice, because you have to release the throttle and therefore you loose time and speed.
Link to more information about that hub: http://www.fallbrooktech.com/cycling/n360
- They changed the brakes from Avid Code to Shimano XT.
- Colour scheme changed slightly.
- They changed the wheels from 26" to 27,5", because Conway doesn´t sell bikes with 26" anymore.

I think the rest is pretty same like 2013.
 
again they use a drive that doesn't meet the specs :( nuvincy is just too weak, it's not even tandem approved. Why not a Rohloff? The shifting issue could be solved by software easily, just realease the throttle during shifting for some milliseconds... A lot of engineering from germany is great, still there are always some black sheeps :roll:
 
E rider "No Fear" version...Videos still witness an horrible "moskito" noise on that bike, enough to repell me from buying at least...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRSUay9y1YQ
 
front mechanism = front derailleur..
older versions where single speed front chain ring..
now available as double front chain ring..
(granny gear reserved for motor power transfer to cranks)..

crossbreak said:
sorry.. what it a "front mech"?
Click to expand...
 
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