Crystalyte Cruise Control

kbarrett

10 kW
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
538
Location
Southwest WA
OK ... tried a c'lyte cruise control. Neat gadget. kinda cheaply built. The cover on mine needs some polystyrene cement already, just from mounting it. Handle bar mount, but it won't open wide ... you have to pull your handlebar grip, shifter, and brakes off to slide it on ... bad design there.

Three buttons: +, -, and a bigger on/off button. And a red active light.


Button only activates if there is at least a small amount of throttle input.

No throttle = button won't light up.

Once it is on, the controller ignores the throttle input, and only uses the cruise control input. It stays at the speed of the last throttle position ... you hold in the + or the - buttons to alter speed. It goes off if you hit the e-brake, or hit the activate button again.

So , for this cruise control, you have to have some kind of throttle ( even a thumb switch will work ), and you probably want e-brakes.

( I'll post a photo once I get back to my camera tonight )
 
Thanx.

It looked like there was a terrible storm on that ship ... I'm still feeling vertigo from watching that ...
 
Happy to see this thread. I'm looking at a small sized brushed 36v 35a controller and a little cruise control unit. Both a throttle and this cruise need a trickle of input current. The only difference is a throttle's output signal/current can be varied instataenously, yet the cruise will send a generally fixed response. I imagine they reply with a similiar signal/current as they both serve the same role.

With a cruise capable contoller, the cruise relies on the throttle for it to be activated. So, what if I use a controller not wired to accept cruise, and splice one onto the throttle wire? Is it possible that controllers require the throttle 1st, but may not know the difference between the throttle and cruise? This is pretty speculative, yet this week I hope to try this out on my new C-409 (Sparrow, DC) hub motor.

If it works, I'll have a super simple power assist ebike setup. Just hope I don't ruin anything :!:
 
i have a 36vdc 25 amp brushed controller dont know the make silver box it has 4 wires for the throttle, if i short the pos in to the throttle directly to the signal out (WHILE THE THROTTLE IS NOT CONNECTED OF COURSE) My bike takes off at full throttle, im going to experement with a spdt switch diode and 10k pot to see if i can choose weather to get the signal from the throttle or the 10k pot, the hall sensoe works the same way as a pot but! puts out a digital signal. I'm not shur what makes digital special but i think it might work, ill post pics and a review if i get it working without frying my controller..
 
Pockets72488 said:
hall sensoe works the same way as a pot but! puts out a digital signal. I'm not shur what makes digital special but i think it might work

Um, no. From a signal standpoint, the throttles look similar; they both put out an varying analogue signal. Digital halls are used in motors.

Also, a 10kΩ isn't the right kind for simulating a hall throttle. I think it's more like, what, 4kΩ?

But, assuming you work out a way to keep the pot and throttle from interfering, it should work.

Another idea is to take a second throttle, remove the return spring, and put it on the other handlebar. Then work out a way to switch between the normal throttle and the cruise control throttle (which will hold it's place since you removed the return spring). Hmm, I like that idea, actually. May try it if I get a replacement hall sensor for my broken throttle. :)
 
yeah your right i had a few things mixed up including my spelling, the pot i was using is actually a 6kΩ pot but in the sense the throttle hall sensor only limits the voltage going out of it to the controller from 0 to what ever the input is i think it ranges from 0 to 4 volts at lease mine does as for switching between throttles a simple SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Switch can be used to change between signal out wires from the different throttles, yes a seccond throttle does work and i have seen that setup on a couple of my customers e-bikes but the idea was not for me, eventually i will include digital cruise control with my basic stamp 2 computer project, i have great hopes for one of these as well http://www.parallax.com/Store/Compo...sic+stamp+2&SortField=ProductName,ProductName
assuming i can get a 10k to work if not theres other ways around it.
 
Jonathan said:
So how do you guys install the cruise control on Clyte controller that DOES NOT have CC output?

for any controller that does not have CC you haft to rig up your own system and of course with any CC its a good idea to use a controller that has the brake interrupts as your no longer letting off the throttle to brake

EDIT: i also wanted to add that from taking apart controllers that have CC i belive i could add CC to controllers that don't have it stock, i will post pictures when i finish testing
 
I have one of these and I don't know if mine is different or the original post is in error. When my cruise control is set you can increase speed using the throttle then release it to return to the cruise control setting.

This is a GREAT device and I would not consider a system that does not include it. I considered a Kelley Controller for the regen function but decided not to get it when I found out it didn't have cruise. Then I found out on this forum that you can enable regen on the C'lyte CT4840 controller (full system review to follow shortly)...
 
OK, I gave it a go. Connected the 'cruise control' wires to the controller throttle input wires. Nada, had to set aside the 'cc' and revert back to the throttle. I'll rig a way to set the throttle near, but not at full throttle. Surprisingly, the lighter brushed C-409 w/ 36v battery runs 'bout as fast as my C-408 powered by 48v. I always pedal up to near cruise speed before applying power, then prefer to pedal w/ the motor. May sound boring, but I like to set a single speed to travel, a speed that allows me to assist, yet gets me there a little faster while making efficient use of the battery. The only reason I need to vary the the power is to compensate for voltage drop. Wish I could turn a 'cc' on/off without a throttle.
 
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