CS38D 1020ZX cheap ebay controller

[flez1966]

Hi, I am currently building my first electric trailer (not a pusher) and electric bike, if your interested links here otherwise page down to the BUT....

thread:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24047

blogs:
motors and speed controller:
http://flez1966-electric-bike.blogspot.com/2011/01/motors-and-speed-control.html?spref=fb

e-trailer (beer buggy)
http://flez1966-beerbuggy.blogspot.com/2011/01/build-begins.html

BUT!

I bought the cheapest controller i bought on ebay, its got a paper label and saysCS38D and 1020ZX controller - changliu and changliudzkj

googling has proved useless....

its supposed to be 24v 500w but they sell same one in different versions so i can presume its just a generic pwn and one size fits all, there is nothing to adjust inside it etc unless they set them with fixed resistor values

it has small possibly PIC based controller, 2 rectifiers stamped HBR20100 and 2 fets stamped 8n2127, theres space for three of each, but only two fitted.

theres a bundle of connectors, red and black wire for power, blue and yellow for motor.

red and blue for ''power locks''

thin black and red for ''indicators''

black and yellow for ''brake''

black red and green for ''derailleur'' (presumed throttle)


Does this sound familar to anyone?

I'm sure i can work out the controllers wiring as its labelled semi-logically, but i'm not sure what it expects as a throttle or if the interlock wiring wants shorting or leaving OC

 

[flez1966]

Ok its a yiyun yk41... (yk41ct)


now its these to sort out...

And also if the speed input should be hall or resistive? I have been sent a hall throttle from an old invalid scooter spare, fits my bike, now wont i be lucky if it just fits right on this....

 

[Jeremy Harris]

The black and red are the power leads from the battery (red +, black -) and the blue and yellow are the leads to the motor (if it turns the wrong way at first, just swap them over).

The brake wires can just be left open circuit, as the brake switch closes to disable the controller when the brakes are applied and few people bother with it.

The connector marked "derailleur" (goodness knows why) is the throttle connector, red is +5V, black is 0V, green is the throttle voltage. It should work fine with a standard Hall throttle and the cable colours probably match.

Quite what the "indicator" and "power locks" leads do I'm not sure, but I doubt it'd hurt to just leave them unconnected for a test.

Jeremy

 

[flez1966]

@Jeremy thanks for the replys, about the time you was tying it i was shoving bits of wire in holes, all in the most technical manner I asure everyone!

Ok power locks is kind of the key-switch for the whole thing, short it out to turn it on, I guess this controller is moped designed and it means power switch steering lock, aka power lock ....

throttle, aka dérailleur possibly does work with hall effect throttle i cant find mine its been put away safe awaiting the build, no doubt never to be seen until after i have bought a replacement. a 1.2v nicad batter supplies 1.2v, a pair of these is now my test throttle...

Voltage is from two 14.4v power tool batteries, so about 28-30v, I dont know what its low voltage cut-out is yet but this should be enough

All connected up, power applied, big sparks, no motor spin.. a big of jiggling later and the motor kicked and pulled all my wiring out....

but we had movement, it caught me off guard as it only happened after i had shorted the brake, now i know you said it can be left disconnect/open, but i think from the way it worked it has to be closed and then opened after a power on, maybe a form of self-test ?

i'll go wire it all back up but just a bit more robustly for testing on the floor, and see if i can work out the logic of the brake switch...

edit: Brake switch has no logic, just leave it disconnected...... it fooled me.

Also this controller has no soft start, as i found out when the motor tried to escape..