what are these controller cables?????

[jimmyhackers]

just bought myself a new controller (wanted regen braking).....instructions are missing and the seller doesnt seem to know how to wire it up....i need help.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/48V-72V-1500W-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Motor-Controller-for-E-bike-Scooter/173474620389?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

ive gone as far as i can understand from the limited ebay description... some wires are eluding me.....



1. the single yellow
2. brown and black
3. single red
4. single green
5.green, blue, red
6. black and red

also the self learning pair of white cables.......can someone please descripe how to go through the "self learning process" please

 

[fechter]

The sales ad states:

Connection Table:
1) Power Cables: big red + big black
2) Phase Cables: big yellow + big green + big blue
3) Electric Door Lock Cable: middle red
4) Hall Cables: small red, small black, small yellow, small green, small blue
5) Throttle Cables: small red + small blue + small black
6) Speed Cables: blue(high speed)+ black + yellow(low speed)
7) Brake-Hi Cable: yellow
8) Brake-Low Cable: Brown
9) Anti-theft Cables: šRed(Positive) + Black(power) Red(E-Start) + Blue(Motor Lock Signal) + Green(Motor Lock)
10) Astern cable: small black + small white
11) Self-Study cable: two white cables with black plugs
12) E-ABS(Optical): two blue cables matched

Now the trick is to figure out which wires correspond to the above chart.

Single yellow I would guess is the Brake-Hi. This will activate the ebrake function when the voltage is above zero, and can go up to pack voltage. The Brake-low activates the ebrake when it gets connected to ground. These both do the same thing and usually only one is used.

Single red- electric door lock cable? No clue what that does but you don't need it. One of the other red wires is likely the 'ignition' line that needs to be connected to pack positive to power up the controller.

Anti-theft cables are also optional to hook up. When activated, this generally locks the motor actively. If you try to roll the bike, the motor will try to stop it. Of course you could just lift up the wheel and still steal it.

 

[jimmyhackers]

thanks for the help.

i kinda tried the process of elimination but i thought it best check what ive guessed with people on here.

so the brown n yellow are my brake cables.... and all i need to do is connect one of them upto the black ground with my hand brake switch?
i like the idea of low n high breaking. could i have my front brake lever activate low breaking on the rear hub.....and the rear brake activate the high braking on it?
i.e is there any harm in connecting the yellow to the brown and to the black at the same time?

i think the black and red cables....are (e-start) so maybe the on switch needs to go to them? you said connect a positive to the red......is it not connect this red to the ground with a switch instead?

ive noticed also the single green cable has no mention whatsoever......i think its for an LCD display but again im not sure how i would wire that up also.......any clues

 

[999zip999]

I would tape a label the ones you know. It'll give you a sense of satisfaction. Then you may only have one or two that you need to find out about

 

[amberwolf]

Single red- electric door lock cable? No clue what that does but you don't need it. One of the other red wires is likely the 'ignition' line that needs to be connected to pack positive to power up the controller.

Actually it probably *is* the "ignition" or "keyswitch" wire; some of the translations I've seen label it as electric lock, so door-lock isn't a stretch.

Anti-theft cables are also optional to hook up. When activated, this generally locks the motor actively. If you try to roll the bike, the motor will try to stop it. Of course you could just lift up the wheel and still steal it.

Unless you make it as heavy as my trike. :lol:

 

[jimmyhackers]

indeed......the chinglish translations are quite laughable......

astern cable.......im guessing means brake lights.....

i can understand why they just dont employ a proof reader for like.....all of the 10 minutes it would take to fix it

yeah i might label them......all my other controllers were good enough to have the chinglish printed on the actual plugs so i could definately relate each plug to the piss poor manual.

just to clarify......if the single red wire is the "ignituon/on switch" should i connect it to ground through a switch or to a positive ?

 

[Voltron]

It connects to battery positive... Either directly or thru a switch. It's already going to ground inside the controller...
The skinny black and red is usually full voltage out for a DC/DC converter. DON'T HOOK A SWITCH TO THIS!
The high and low brake doesn't refer to low or high power braking.. They both just cut off the motor, one uses lower voltage input to do it. They don't need to get hooked up to ground.

 

[jimmyhackers]

does that mean ive bought a controller without regen breaking then?

i was really hoping that i could cut down on my brake pad wear with regen breaking

 

[Voltron]

You might have it.. But the high brake/ low brake usually just refers to the voltage input to trigger the motor cutoff.

 

[jimmyhackers]

i have semi got to grips with my controller...... the low break connector.... seems to work only between 15mph and 5mph. not sure if it regen or just electronic breaking thoiugh.

which i find incredibly anoying and slightly dangerous...... as it kicks in adding more breaking force....making me reduce my own breaking pressure. then as i come to a stop it cuts out making me shoot forward a little and i have to re-apply more break pressure again.

i am yet to try brake -hi......but im sure its be just as bad/silly. i would hope its less to do with breaking pressure/amount and more to do with when the brake is applied i.e (all the time)

 

[fechter]

Usually the low brake and high brake do exactly the same thing. The difference is the signal level to trigger it. Low brake is normally 5v and activates when that line is pulled to ground. High brake starts out at zero and triggers when the line gets pulled up above 5v or so, up to full pack voltage. This is intended for bikes with brake lights.

 

[amberwolf]

It cant' read how hard you're pulling the brake, it's just a switch. (there *are* some that have proportional braking, but they don't work the way you describe; you engage the lever and then increase braking with the throttle, *or* they have a separate analog braking strength control.)

So yours is only off or on, and is probalby not adjustable in any way.

Since it only works in a limited speed range, it is probably standard regen, and not electronic braking (EABS), which will usually work at all speeds, is usually stronger than regen braking, and works at the same force level down to nearly zero speed.

There are a lot of variations on this type, so not every controller that has it does the same thing for "EABS", but I doubt yours has it based on your description.

 

[jimmyhackers]

are you sure about that? as mine does have the e-abs . it was listed as E-ABS (optical) with two blue cables

i havnt tried this out yet as is thought it was assisted brake system...like a car.. with the turning of a brake off and on under sliding locked up wheels situations.

im not sure how it would work and the word optical next to its name made me think i need a sensor or something else to plug into it. i might do some more tinkering..... it would be nice to have a full regen assited brkake system...up and working.

the controller is only 40 quid so i may get another for my new mini dirt bike i made. at least ill have a spare if i pop somethign in this one.

 

[aroundqube]

Looks like you have your controller power on switch figured out.( Door lock switch.) Astern should be motor reverses direction. Like in the old war movies, when the ship captain hollers to the engine room - full speed astern ! Useful on trikes and scooters.

 

[amberwolf]

are you sure about that? as mine does have the e-abs . it was listed as E-ABS (optical) with two blue cables

Just because they *call* it that doesn't mean it is actually that. Terms get used incorrectly or mixedly all the time on many products.

Plus, there's nothing "optical" about it. Almost certainly, that too is a mistake, and should probably say "optional".

i havnt tried this out yet as is thought it was assisted brake system...like a car.. with the turning of a brake off and on under sliding locked up wheels situations.

Even the stuff that might be more accurately called EABS (instead of simple regen) doesn't do anything that sophisticated. All it does is actively power the wheel against the rotation direction ("negative torque"), so it has better braking at all speeds and brakes down to lower speeds.

Regen also acts as a kind of antilock braking system, in that it cna't actually lockup the wheel, so technically it's not incorrect to label *any* such electric braking as a form of EABS.


Cost of controller doesn't really determine which types of braking it supports; I have something that was probably only $30 including shipping (can't remember) that does do what I'm calling EABS, the active-braking "negative torque" type, rather than just regen.

I also have much more expensive controllers, like a "Grinfineon" that only has regular regen, and one I"m testing that's FOC and sinewave but at present it has no braking function at all.

I have yet another cheap generic that randomly operates as EABS sometimes, and at other times has *NO* electric braking, and yet other times only works as regen. There's no pattern to its mode changes, but there's something wrong in there somewhere to be causing that.

 

[jimmyhackers]

thanks for the info. youve helped a lot

for clarification. would a proper e-abs system regen, or take battery power in creating the braking force?

 

[amberwolf]

Depends on how it works and the conditions. As long as the RPM is high enough it can jus tuse the regen ability to take power from the wheel's motion, and then as RPM drops lower it can begin applying power to continue braking past the point that regen could do it.

Also, if battery voltage wasn't low enough at the normal regen point to accept more charge, the system could (if it "knows" this) use battery power to provde the same braking force.

I don't know which (if any) controllers are smart enough to do all of that, but they could.

The generic 15FET I have appears to use some regen at the highest end of the speed range, but there's not usually any net recapture of power, as it appears to use more power than it gets back for most of the braking I do on my commutes. Since all I care about is the braking force going down to zero and being equal thru the whole speed range (so it's more predictable, since all I have is on/off braking, rather than proportional), that doesn't matter to me.

I doubt that all of them do it the same way; some may not do any regen but only do the forced braking.

If recapture of energy is more important to you, then pure regen is better suited to that. Some controllers implement it better than others, so have a wider speed range it works at, and some motors (and wheel sizes for those motors) will work better with some controllers than others. Unfortunatley there's no list of which do what, so it's kind of a trial and error thing for each system.