Currie 1000w scooter motor VS RC motors?

E

e-noob

1 mW
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
19
Okay, so.. I've pretty much excluded hub motors for my first build.. (trying to make something "cheap")
here: http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/36vo10mo.html
I can get a currie 1000w 36v motor for $109usd..

with a setup kind of like this:
[youtube]1wydQY5HUtc[/youtube]

would I be better off going with a RC motor?(with the same kind of setup)
like these:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/...0-100-A_180Kv_Brushless_Outrunner_(eq:_70-55)?

here's a go kart with 3 of them.. 90km/h..
[youtube]vwODx028_Jw[/youtube]
I'd think a go kart would need the extra motors far more than a bike would... would a single motor cut it?

any other options would be welcomed.. (still really want to do a setup using the gears though.)
 
Hi enoob,

Welcome to the forum.
What do you have in mind for a budget? and also have you had any thoughts on, or do you already have batteries?
Your system will depend on what your getting "as a whole" as well as which drive you choose.
You would probably do well to to watch the rc bikes develope but if you are on a budget look to the curries or cyclones, hubs are great to just drop in and ride but gears with any decent motor seems to be the better option, if more difficult to setup initially.
Also what bike are you seting up? what are your uses etc? really map out what you expect for performance and what terrains in order to get the right feedback from the guys :mrgreen:
Best of luck with the build, and again welcome.

Cheers,

D
 
Hey, Thanks for the welcome.

as for budget.. I'm quite broke atm, but I'm hooked so.. debt ftw I guess!.. (the American way!)

for batteries I was originally thinking just 3 12v 18ah sla's in series but... I may go with 6 Bosch fatpacks in parallel..(could they even handle the amps? I'm a noob at the whole volts/amps etc stuff.. hench the name)

For the bike, it'll probably be a "walmart-special" 26" mongoose/huffy/schwinn full suspension mountain bike..

as for usage, probably just a grocery/beer run mobile.. and riding do my dad's house which is 10-12 miles away(could probably charge while there).. probably a little longer to his place on back-roads.. I dunno know, I just want to get out and explore.. for a change.
lots of hills around here.. I just got back from a 5-6 mile each way b33r run on my sister's pink 24" mtb(sad I know.)... 55mph road.. most people do 60.. a bunch of places you can't even get over to the side.. sucked to say the least. ( why must people honk when you're already as far off the road as you can go?.. should have flipped the bird...)

yeah, I've been watching alot of the RC motor vids.. they sound a little too much like jet engines... the cops around here are complete @$$hats. they will pull you over for having a headlight out and breathalyze you, they will pull you over for going 20 in a 25, and breathalyze you for having a empty bottle of iced tea in the back.... @$$hats I say.

and no, I'm 26 years old and have never driven a car... don't believe in the drunk driving on any vehicle(that trip made me want to start thoough, driving that is.)
made me want "my" e-bike more though.
 
I like the way the go-kart guys ganged the HXT motors on a common shaft.

That clutch is smoking pretty bad.

3 motors are pretty long...unless you have an efficient 90 degree drive.
But that could be really cool if done right.

2 ganged together on a common shaft is a much more reasonable length.

But would be more of a challenge to mount then the Matt/Luke parallel vs. the go kart
parallel due to the overall length of the assembly.

1 motor will definitely get you going for an amazingly reasonable price for the quality.
The HXT's may not be the best. But it is amazing for what you get for 130 to 150 dollars in my
opinion. Overall, the machining is top notch. The stators are excellent.
Most of the issues with the motor are essentially quality control problems.
 
Hi e-noob
I agree that the RC motors wouldn't be the cheapest way to go, plus there's a lot more fiddling required.

However, spending money on the RC LiPos is well worth it IMHO. I have never done any RC model stuff so was new to the LiPo technology, but now I love them. Mounting a small lightweight package is SO much easier than lead-acids.
 
Hey I am actually building a bike with that currie motor.The only problem I have encountered is that you have to gear it high to get some performance out of it.for example to get good acceleration you should use 20" tires and get the biggest crank sprocket and freewheel hub you can find.Also the motor is brushed instead of brushless like the RC motors.
 
out of the 3 gears on the peddle crank I was planning to use the 3rd/smallest sprocket.. I thought this would be best for max speed?(MTB).. with the Currie.. does that motor max out on torque or rpms?...
I still haven't ruled the RC motors out... esp the $59usd one that gets 52mph..(still loud though) +that guy was only running a single gear ratio...(tiny tiny motor.....)

I've had this bike:
treknoob.jpg

for about a decade.. I still think a 26" would be better though.. for max speed.. suspension.. etc?
 
I am working on a related project,
Taking a powerpack brushless motor at 32V 35 amps from 4 Dewalt packs. The freewheel crank pictured in one your videos can be had from sickbikeparts.com. I am using a Giant Stiletto chopper frame which has a tandem like crank axle in the center as well as the front. Figure I could put a 15/100 belt drive reduction to the center crank axle to slow the motor speed down. The freewheel crank on the front will drive one of the two stock 21T gears on the center crank axle. This will give me seven gears for the motor and 7 gears for me to pedal.
To keep the battery range as high as possible, the rear gearing is a great choice considering you have plenty of hills to go over. To save precious amps, pedal first to get going and roll on the throttle. The combo of pedal first and multiple gears should double your range over hammering a hub motor without pedaling. I'm still getting the belt drive gear reduction system worked out but am ordering the freewheel crank to get the pedaling part of the drive train complete.
I like the RC motors but those things have screaming RPM which needs to be reduced to a reasonable range (450 or so wheel RPM) My rear wheel is a 24" with a 3 inch wide tire to handle the bumps from the hard tail frame. My powerpack brushless motor came off a schwinn (currie) scooter project from a few years back.
I think you could get a 9 tooth motor gear with the 48 tooth gear on the freewheel crank makes a 500% gear reduction. This should drop the speed of the drive down to 500 RPM at the crank. If you could squeeze a 22 tooth on the crank, it will drop your RPMs to 320 RPMs at the back wheel which might work for hills. It will give you speeds of 16 MPH in the lowest gear and 41 MPH in the highest gear. Granted, you don't have enough power to hit 41 MPH but your lowest 34T gear is 16 MPH, the next 28T is 18.8, the 24T is 22.7 and the 20T is 27 MPH. Run it as a 4 speed when using the motor might work for you.
Those little 9T gears will wear quickly so maybe an 11T with a 60 tooth chainring would work better. It will also slow down your RPMs some more for a lower first gear for the hills. Use heavy duty BMX bike chain for the motor gear to crank gear since they are much stronger and actually cheaper to buy.
Good luck!
 
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