Currie controller?

lbz5mc12

10 kW
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
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Location
San Bernardino, Ca
On the pas/tag controllers is it possible to bypass the pas function by splicing the tag connection together? I have a thumb throttle that does not have an on/off or pas/tag button. My friend is currently using my pas/tag throttle on his bike and if I can avoid spending the money on a new one, that would be great. The thumb throttle's battery and power connections match up to the controller's connections.
 
I found it difficult to understand your question, but since I don't know the answer and spent the time trying to figure out the question, I thought I might rehash it for anyone else. I hope this isn't excessively obnoxious (hell I might just be slow, and it is clear as day to anyone else). EDIT: Yo, I just reread your thread, and it isn't nearly as confusing at I thought it was the first time I read it. So I apologize, it must be the morning.

[MY original post rehash:]
OP has a currie bike, and he/she gave their original currie throttle to a friend. OPs currie bike works with a pedal-assist technology (so you have to peddle to go forward). OP asks whether they can bypass the PAS with a NON-PAS throttle by simply connecting the other throttle wires to their respective wires on the controller.

I think this^ is what's going on. I wish I knew the answer. I have had success with connecting throttles that had incompatible lighting systems (Scooters original system had a three LED system on the throttle + 3 regular throttle wires, but my replacement had 2 LED wires, 2 cruise control wires, and 3 regular throtttle wires. Once I isolated which were the essential wires, thats all I connected]. But I've never connected such different systems.
 
If your question is....can you prevent the bike from ever going into an "auto" engagement of the motor. The answer is yes. Just unplug the wire at the controller that comes from the peddle crank magnet. This is assuming your talking about a Currie Trailz bike.

Bob
 
I have an older Ezip Trailz bike with a PAS/TAG throttle on it and a trike with the Currie conversion kit on it. The controllers are interchangeable except for the pedal assist connection, which does not need to be attached for the throttle to function. The PAS/TAG throttle also has some additional wiring and things in the harness but the connections at the controller are the same as the thumb throttle I got with the kit. There is a 3 wire connection which is the hall sensor 5v, sense (1-4V), and ground, and there is another 2 wire connector, (only 1 wire on the Trailz throttle), that reads battery voltage.
 
Let me see if I can draw a better mental picture. The pas/tag connection coming out of the controller; cut the connector off and splice the two wires to themselves creating a loop back into the controller thereby subtracting the need for a pas/tag button on the throttle. Kind of like the way they show a vehicle being hot wired. The problem I have is that I have the thumb throttle from the brushed kit and it does not have the pas/tag connection and without it the controller/motor won't work. I went ahead and ordered the correct throttle today but it would still be nice to know for the future.
 
lbz5mc12 said:
The problem I have is that I have the thumb throttle from the brushed kit and it does not have the pas/tag connection and without it the controller/motor won't work.

I just said I have the exact same thing and it DOES work. Thumb throttle without button (Conversion Kit) is running the old controller (Ezip Trailz 2007). As mentioned, pedal sense is not connected - no splicing, just open. 5 wire, dual connector for throttle is connected, (hall sensor and battery gauge).
 
So, I think bgnome's conclusion is that it DOES work without the pas/tag connection. OP says it won't work without that.... Just wanted to ask if you've tried it without the PAS hooked up (since you don't have it, so you can't hook it up).
 
Sorry I should have been more specific. Yes I have tried to use it on the controller without the pas/tag connected and it doesn't work. You know which thumb throttle right? The big fat one with no on/off button and the battery indicator is on top? It may also be because the controller I have is a newer model. I believe it's a 2011 and it's from their Skyline model. I've also checked the Currie site and they sell throttles specific to the battery chemistry. They have throttles for SLA and lithium. You know what that's not correct, I just remembered that I had two batteries mounted on the Skyline at one time. One was SLA and the other was the Lithium it came with.
 
What might be the case is that different chemistry have slightly different voltages. I.E, what we call a "36v" LiPo is slightly different than a 36v SLA battery, so the throttle would need to have a slightly differently calibrated sensor. I doubt it makes a big difference, though. I do know that when I went from 36v to 48v my 36v throttle didn't work perfectly anymore (big jumps do matter).

Sorry I can't help you with the controller. Looking at how PAS systems work, there are multiple different systems (both PAS systems that output a throttle signal, and those that simply output a signal proportional to your pedaling, and if above a threshold, allow the motor to engage).

In your system you seem to indicate that it has a throttle and a PAS system. So it might work to short the PAS wires on the controller side (like you suggested) if the system is passive. Alternatively if the wiring needs an active power source [PAS system is generating minuscule power], then I guess shorting the wires wont work. I can't think of any reason it would be bad to try, though.


But, in general, if you want help on the forums you need to lay out what you have, what you're trying to do, what you're saying, etc, more clearly. Even your last post is really kind of stream-of-conscious. I'm probably only noticing this because I have a bad tendency to do it as well.
 
lbz5mc12 said:
Sorry I should have been more specific. Yes I have tried to use it on the controller without the pas/tag connected and it doesn't work. You know which thumb throttle right? The big fat one with no on/off button and the battery indicator is on top? It may also be because the controller I have is a newer model. I believe it's a 2011 and it's from their Skyline model. I've also checked the Currie site and they sell throttles specific to the battery chemistry. They have throttles for SLA and lithium. You know what that's not correct, I just remembered that I had two batteries mounted on the Skyline at one time. One was SLA and the other was the Lithium it came with.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=32253
Looking at your other thread, it looks like you are trying to reuse the controller from your skyline. Judging by your description, although the original TAG/PAS throttle sounds similar, (24V half twist with battery indicator), the control box sounds significantly different from the one on my Trailz. So it is likely that the controller does function differently than my old Trailz controller or the new 24V kit controller that I have.

You may find some helpful info here:
http://www.currietech.com/dealers/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page
 
I got my new throttle and am good to go. Has anyone changed the 20 tooth drive gear to the 16 tooth? I did but I can't seem to get the chain alignment just right. It clicks as it rotates over the gears. It doesn't seem to be damaging anything but it does affect the efficiency of the motor. It causes a little bit of drag as it gets up to speed. With the 16 tooth I lose some torque but I gain speed. Besides I can produce the necessary torque with my legs to get the bike up to speed. I can kind of be a horse's ass at times so this should give me the ability of horse power. :D
 
As I remember you may need to bend the motor mount to align the chain with that freewheel. I would recommend taking a look at DrkAngels postings on http://www.ebikeforum.com/ It was his original idea and he has it in great detail there.

Bob
 
Thanks. I've got the electrical components from the Currie on my GT Aggressor. I had to use a hose clamp to attach the motor mounting plate to my frame. It doesn't have the same bracket as their kit. I have a rear hub kit on the Currie. It just worked out better this way because the rear dropouts on the Currie are pretty deep and the larger axle on the hub motor fits better than it did on my GT. The GT is also a lot lighter than the Currie, and as the Currie motor is less powerful than the hub kit, it works more efficiently on the GT. I also have a better gear ratio on the GT which helps with the 16 tooth freewheel. The hub kit at full throttle goes between 22-25mph and the Currie motor goes from 18-22mph. I can put the GT in a harder gear and keep up with the motor. On the hub kit I try to average 15mph on slight uphills and about 11mph on steeper grades. I only full throttle the hub on flats and slight downhills otherwise it drains the battery too quickly. I know this was a little off topic but I felt like sharing.
 
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