De-restricting speed on the Greenworks Stealth 60V minibike?

[Toshi]

Has anyone come across info on how to lift the 25 mph speed limit on the 60V minibike? I realize range would be lost but it'd be safer on nominally 30 or 35 mph speed limit roads if it didn't have said limiter.

Failing that, has anyone swapped in a different controller on one?

Thanks in advance. Here's mine:



(And since the days of yore I've gone through some other bikes. Current e-stable, unless I forgot one: this minibike, Juiced RipCurrent S, RadWagon 4, Pivot Shuttle, Motobecane E5000-based city bike for eldest kid, Motobecane E6000 e-mtb for wife, and a OneWheel Pint.)

 

[neptronix]

Maybe that's what speed you get with the winding of motor they designed. In that case, there's no speed limiter.

You could replace the controller to one with phase advance / field weakening to get more speed, but you would probably end up replacing the throttle, etc in the process. This might overstress the battery though.

 

[E-HP]

but it'd be safer on nominally 30 or 35 mph speed limit roads

It would be safer to avoid those roads and keep is stock. How fast is it hot off the charger?

 

[amberwolf]

Maybe that's what speed you get with the winding of motor they designed. In that case, there's no speed limiter.

You can test for that by simply lifting the driven wheel off ground and retesting. If it shows the identical speed either way, it's limited in the controller. If it's a little bit faster offground, it's limited by the motor windings / system voltage. If it's a lot faster offground, it's limited by the power of the system (battery and controller).

In all cases, replacing the controller is likely necessary, and in the latter two the battery would also need to be replaced; the first for a higher voltage battery, and for the second a higher amp (and Ah to make up the range) battery. May also need the latter for the second scenario as well, if the power required for the higher speed exceeds what the original specification can do.


Are the suspension, brakes, tires, etc. already capable of the higher speeds? If not, replacing those would also be a really good idea.

 

[Dui ni shuo de dui]

In addition to what amberwolf rightly said, some controllers have a hardware speed limit which works by shorting a wire.
In which case, you might have a small wire coming from the controller that is plugged to another wire of the same color going directly back to the controller, making some kind of little loop.
If that is the case, you simply disconnect it to open the loop and then the controller speed is unlocked.

 

[TxFilmmaker]

On the subject of speed and controllers for this bike, does anyone else have an issue with the acceleration curve being SUPER sharp? Feels like I barely roll the throttle back and launches at 10-20% speed. If anyone hears of a way to tame that a bit, I'd really appreciate it. Possibly an aftermarket controller or something?

 

[amberwolf]

It could be your throttle (going from off to more than just barely on in a very tiny movement range; you can test that with a voltmeter) or it could be the controller's response / output design.

If it's the throttle, replacing it with one that has a gradual response (tough to find out without testing each one, but cable-operated throttles like the ones I use on my SB Cruiser, linked in that thread, have this) would fix it.

If it's the controller, then if it has settings for response you can play with those, but most don't. There may be other ways to compensate; for instance if it is a speed-based controller and you don't use all the speed, maybe it has a limit that changes the proportion of available speed vs throttle input. If it is a current-based controller and you don't use all the current (or watts) then maybe it has a limit that changes the proportion of available current vs throttle input.


Torque-controllers (FOC) like the Phaserunner, VESC, etc., that have customizable throttle response should fix both of these scenarios. Not all FOC / torque controllers have this function, so you would have to verify before purchase.

 

[KanKanKan]

You could try this, The 16 pin connector on the speed controller is actually only using 6 of the pins. Looking down at the controller with connectors at the top. The bottom row 2nd from the left is LS and the third from left is MS. The 4th pin from the left is HS, but is not used. Try moving the MS wire to the right one spot. Let me know how fast it os after. I already changed mine to fardriver. So I can't test, but looks to me Like it is Low Speed, Medium Speed, then HS would be High Speed. Makes sense. Most speed controllers are 1 speed or 3. Never seen a 2 speed before.

 

[KanKanKan]

Some controller pics.

 

[KanKanKan]

You could try this, The 16 pin connector on the speed controller is actually only using 6 of the pins. Looking down at the controller with connectors at the top. The bottom row 2nd from the left is LS and the third from left is MS. The 4th pin from the left is HS, but is not used. Try moving the MS wire to the right one spot. Let me know how fast it os after. I already changed mine to fardriver. So I can't test, but looks to me Like it is Low Speed, Medium Speed, then HS would be High Speed. Makes sense. Most speed controllers are 1 speed or 3. Never seen a 2 speed before.

My bike runs 43 mph on stock batteries using the fardriver nd72200. I also installed a SunF 20x10x10 ty tire on the rear (needed a little tweaking to make fit) and a SunF 20x7x8 on the front. My bike rolled over 3,000 miles and the display got an error and the tires where shot. So was due for upgrades. Next to build a beefy 72v battery to fill the large open space in the frame.

 

[Bigchungus118]

My bike runs 43 mph on stock batteries using the fardriver nd72200. I also installed a SunF 20x10x10 ty tire on the rear (needed a little tweaking to make fit) and a SunF 20x7x8 on the front. My bike rolled over 3,000 miles and the display got an error and the tires where shot. So was due for upgrades. Next to build a beefy 72v battery to fill the large open space in the frame.

How difficult is it to tweak and install the nd72200 controller ? Is it more along the plug and play lines or is there rigging involved ? I’m new to all the E bike stuff but I’m eager to learn and would like to make this my first project if possible. Thanks ! ( I have removed and looked into the bikes controller and other parts so I’m not completely oblivious into what I’m doing I’m just not experienced. )

 

[badowzz]

My bike runs 43 mph on stock batteries using the fardriver nd72200. I also installed a SunF 20x10x10 ty tire on the rear (needed a little tweaking to make fit) and a SunF 20x7x8 on the front. My bike rolled over 3,000 miles and the display got an error and the tires where shot. So was due for upgrades. Next to build a beefy 72v battery to fill the large open space in the frame.

Do you have a YouTube where you step by step modify your bike? I got the same minibike and put around 250 miles on it so far but it’s 25mph top speed is way to slow. I saw your previous post about moving the medium speed wire to high speed. Does that require soldering? I know nothing about modifying electric bikes so any help is appreciated. Also, I haven’t seen any videos about modding the greenworks minibike on YouTube so posting on there might gain some traction for you.