John Bozi said:
Update on the bike.
a couple of weeks ago I went out for an off road ride. The rear chain jumped and jammed. The front motor was not enough for the steep hills and had to push up quite a few but still, I am glad I had the front motor for everything else.
How does the front motor feel when riding?
Off road it feels like a bit of vibration, more so the more back you sit. I've noticed that concept on a rear hub most probably because the riders weight plants the wheel hard.
On road there's a bit less of that feel on the front when going slow and trying to get going.
Dropping off a foot like a log or step or rock etc.... it doesn't feel as nice that's for sure. It feels like dead weight and I used to be able to just pull up the front to go up a step. Now I need to compress the suspension first to help me spring up.
Does it change your steering?
Not really noticing much there at all.
Is it worth it?
In a perfect world NO. While the mid drive is in constant need of repairs YES
I haven't had a chain on the bike while working on it for a while, and rode the bike to the shops just with the front motor. No problems getting there and back even with hills. You just need a run up....
Would I choose a front motor over a rear motor to give up on the mid drive?
Not really for crazy riding no. But if you are the type who loves to pedal and extend range and like to have a perfect mtb cassette working 100% like it should yes.
I still want to try this front hub on my carbon bike which I can't find anything else that would suit.
a bit off topic: I bought 5ah a while back to take my 10ah up to 15. I thought for ages where to put it but this frame is just going to get ugly as hell to add on. A complete redesign seems like a waste so I never put it on. HOwever I left my black bike ON for over a week and lost all the battery as a result... I might put the 5ah onto the black bike.... painful waste of money....
I'm sad for your batteries. member Kfong did a smart LVC switch for that......
Very interesting report about the grin motor, thanks to share your feelings. I'm sure in a true offroad light freerider, where the complete front wheel could weight a mere 2.5 or 3 Kg, a front motor does not make any sense. I guess That motor applies better to an high end build mostly intended for flat to mild ascents at speed (dual motor), or to transfom in minutes a True DH/FR machine into a commuter for urban purposes (front motor only) simply swapping a wheel and cleanly.
personally, I would try it in my bike with a LH parallel astro drive that actually I keep very short in gearing with a 19/1 total reduction over a 24" wheel that translates into 53kph @ fully charged 12s. Having the front motor wounded mostly for stand start till say 20 MPH would allow me to gear down the Astro till maybe 13-14/1 with a 26" wheel, increasing top speed till 75kph without probably any concern at low speed. with my street/hookworm configuration it should be a fun. But it will probably cure the power wheeling tendencies, that's not cool
.
About your buiId, I would suggest you to get the sigmacom app for one of your CA, I think it should be very convenient in your situation. you could have in the handlebar only 1 CA plus an android device wirelessly conncted to the other CA, and the other CA could be hidden in the battery case or any other position, near the controller or near the shunt, if you have an external one, to even shorten the cables.
Resuming the last posts on the "fitting splines on freewheels" thread, If you intend to make sandwich splined adapters like the origin8/fouriers/P.S. ones, seems reasonable to me to start from the HG sprocket measures (that is a pseudo-standard, especially for the major diameter) and, retromeasuring your body of choice, make them tighter than the normal fit.
A -.25 or even more for the minor diameter, and -10 for the major diameter from the standard should be ok for that purpose, so it will be a much more precise fit with more contact area.
It is better to start machining a tight fit even with the risk to have it not fitting at all rather than have it lax. What engage and must be precise and smooth, are the tab sides, so if you respect the 40° you can eventually file out the minor and the major DIA a bit to let it finally slide on. In a cassette assembly, once locked, the arc surfaces are never in contact, only the radial parts of the surfaces, engage, so a filed arc surface is not a concern, if you get what I mean.
Going even further, the more you close the tolerance between the circles, especially the major one, the more you need to decrease the spline number, till the extreme situation where you have an almost precise fit and a single one or 2 splines/key.
A reasonable approach (yet made by some manufacturer,) should be a 3 splines design, and a much more tight fit than standard. This leads to only three edge engaged but with much more contact area and less wobble.
