Payed $600
This is what`s happening with my `new`bike, it's a 48 Volt Raptor up-volted to a 60 Volt. I got it last night, the test drive went well, got it home, took it out for an hour drive, and then it started dying on me. My throttle was all out, and it`s like I let off it completely. It would stay dead for about ten seconds or so, then come back on and do this over and over until I decided this can`t be good for the bike, and walked it home for a couple hours, where I plugged it in and let it charge to full. So I called the guy who sold it to me this morning and he said ``It has to be the 5th battery`` and went on to explain how it was probably dead and he would be over with spares. He came over with a voltmeter, and a load tester thing for the batteries. We continued to disconnect all batteries, test them with the voltmeter, then test them with the load test thing individually. The ``5th battery`` tested in the yellow range for the load test, didn't look great, so we changed it out for one that passed. The original 4 batteries had also been replaced not long ago, but they tested fine. The guy assures me that was the problem and leaves. So, I get the bike back together and take it out, instantly I notice there is quite a bit less power than my test drive, or the first 45 mins of my drive last night, I get about 3 minutes away, and I lose motor power, same thing as last night, it starts kicking out, then coming back, but this time much longer than 10 second intervals, and I walk the bike home again. Call the guy who sold it to me again, and he insists that it`s simply because they batteries are not "sync'd" as the original 4 batteries are now fully charged and the controller isn't getting the proper voltage. His suggestion to me was to leave the lights on and drain the batteries that way, so they would all be equally dead, then recharge the bike, and this problem would be gone.
My question is, how much of that is plausible? If none of it could be the issue, what would be some things I could look into? He assures me there is a 1500 watt controller in the bike to compensate for the "upgrades" to the bike. I will be happy to test what I can with a voltmeter, and take pictures of any components that would help solve this issue. I should point out that none of these batteries are expanded or bubbled out.
This is what`s happening with my `new`bike, it's a 48 Volt Raptor up-volted to a 60 Volt. I got it last night, the test drive went well, got it home, took it out for an hour drive, and then it started dying on me. My throttle was all out, and it`s like I let off it completely. It would stay dead for about ten seconds or so, then come back on and do this over and over until I decided this can`t be good for the bike, and walked it home for a couple hours, where I plugged it in and let it charge to full. So I called the guy who sold it to me this morning and he said ``It has to be the 5th battery`` and went on to explain how it was probably dead and he would be over with spares. He came over with a voltmeter, and a load tester thing for the batteries. We continued to disconnect all batteries, test them with the voltmeter, then test them with the load test thing individually. The ``5th battery`` tested in the yellow range for the load test, didn't look great, so we changed it out for one that passed. The original 4 batteries had also been replaced not long ago, but they tested fine. The guy assures me that was the problem and leaves. So, I get the bike back together and take it out, instantly I notice there is quite a bit less power than my test drive, or the first 45 mins of my drive last night, I get about 3 minutes away, and I lose motor power, same thing as last night, it starts kicking out, then coming back, but this time much longer than 10 second intervals, and I walk the bike home again. Call the guy who sold it to me again, and he insists that it`s simply because they batteries are not "sync'd" as the original 4 batteries are now fully charged and the controller isn't getting the proper voltage. His suggestion to me was to leave the lights on and drain the batteries that way, so they would all be equally dead, then recharge the bike, and this problem would be gone.
My question is, how much of that is plausible? If none of it could be the issue, what would be some things I could look into? He assures me there is a 1500 watt controller in the bike to compensate for the "upgrades" to the bike. I will be happy to test what I can with a voltmeter, and take pictures of any components that would help solve this issue. I should point out that none of these batteries are expanded or bubbled out.