Different kind of geared E-Bike...

[safe]

The IPS system available now, the Sun bicycles one has the captains gear on the left side of the crank. It is MADE to transfer power to the gears on the cassette side of the crank WITHOUT the pedals moving.

I just want to see a picture that's all. The typical "front freewheel" is just a freewheel attached to the crank and this allows a motor to "pass through" and avoid the crank in turning the front sprocket. For a system to be able to "pass through" and also switch from the left side to the right side of the cranks is something I'd very much like to see.

Could you describe the mechanics of it more clearly? Have you seen it? Maybe draw a picture using "paint" if you know how it works?

That pdf file crashes my version of Adobe so I wasn't able to read it...

 

[Miles]

If you're talking about the pdf that I posted, you won't experience a Damascene conversion from seeing that :wink:

 

[Sturdly]

I just had to register for the forum and add a copy of an informational email I got from Geoff back in August. The X2 requires pedaling.


" I Have not exported any to the US as yet.
But I will find out more about the cost of shipping for you as I would like get into the
US market.

We have 2 systems Epac power x2 which will drive the cranks at 60 rpms.
The big advantange of this system is if you are using the bike for exciting you can go alot faster and further then you ever though possible ever off road and with a lot less effort.
There is a clutch between the crank and the motor so you can pedal with the motor or with out motor, you will not pedal against the motor

The other system we call free ride is more suitable for shorter distances and flatter areas.
There is a clutch between the motor and the cranks when the motor is running
the crank will not more.
On the hill you may have to assist the motor.
The will run through the back gear set on your bike.

The batteries Sealed Lead Acid
But we are starting to put together and export kit which will not include the batteries or charger.
So you can use a 24 volt system that will fit the battery bag
We recommend Sealed Lead Acid


Thanks for visiting our EPAC POWER site. http://www.epacpower.com.au


We have two systems


Epac Power x 2

This system allows you to ride the bike as normal and then when more power is required
you can double your power out put through every gear on the bike by simply turning the throttle up. You will tackle any hill with ease.
Ideal for riders who want to improve their fitness without putting too much stress on joints and muscles.


Epac Power Free Ride

This system will drive you forward without pedalling When more power is required for hills you can use a combination of motor, changing gears and pedals.
This will get you up any hill with ease

Please note both systems have a clutch between the motor and the crank.


Hope this will help





This product is a new and exciting innovation in electric bicycles.
How is different from other products already on the market?
Most currently available electric bikes are hub drives.The disadvantage of this is that there is no torque range therefore they provide very little assistance when travelling up hill. This is a crank drive system which utilizes all the gears on the bike.So up hill travel is made considerably easier.


FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

HOW LONG HAS THE EPAC BEEN ON THE MARKET?

OUR PRODUCT HAS BEEN IN DEVELOPMENT FOR 2 YEARS AND WAS LAUNCHED AT THE BICYCLE TRADE FAIR IN SYDNEY IN OCTOBER 2005.



CAN YOU USE EPAC WITHOUT PEDALLING?

WE NOW HAVE TWO SYSTEMS

YES, IF YOU CHOOSE EPAC POWER FREE RIDE

NO. IF YOU CHOOSE EPAC POWER X2 THIS IS A POWER ASSISTED SYSTEM. EVEN WITH MINIMUM INPUT TO THE PEDALS YOU CAN DOUBLE YOUR RANGE OF TRAVEL AND IS IDEAL FOR THE RIDER WHO WANTS TO IMPROVE THEIR FITNESS.
DONT BE AFRAID OF PEDALING THATS WHY YOU BOUGHT A PUSH BIKE
THE PEDALS WILL ONLY ROTATE AT A MAXIMUM SPEED OF ONE REVOLUTION PER SECOND WHICH IS NOT FAST.
IN MOST COUNTRIES IN EUROPE ELECTRIC BIKES ARE DESIGNED IN SUCH A WAY THAT THE ELECTRIC MOTOR WILL NOT ENGAGE UNLESS YOU ARE PEDALING.THIS IS HOW EPAC POWER X2 WORKS



DO YOU NEED TO PEDAL GOING UP HILL?

YES BUT YOU'LL FIND THAT PEDALLING UP HILL USING EPAC IS AS EASY AS TRAVELLING ON A FLAT ROAD.



WHEN THE MOTOR IS NOT ACTIVATED ARE YOU PEDALLING AGAINST THE MOTOR?

NO



DOES THE EPAC COME WITH DIFFERENT BATTERIES?

NO.
THE EPAC COMES WITH 2 SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERIES.
EPAC IS A 12 AMP 24 VOLT SYSTEM 2X 12VOLT BATTERIES.
THE TECHNOLOGY OF SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERIES IS IMPROVING ALL THE TIME
THE REASON 99.9% OF CARS WORLD WIDE HAVE ACID LEAD BATTERIES IS THAT THEY ARE THE MOST RELIABLE.
THEY CAN BE CHARGED WITH AN AUTO CUT OF CHARGER.
CHARGE CAN BE TOPPED UP AT ANY TIME AS THEY HAVE NO MEMORY.
THEY CAN BE LEFT WITH OUT CHARGING FOR MONTHS.
EPAC BATTERIES CAN BE REPLACE INEXPENSIVELY FROM US OR BASICALLY ANY WHERE WORLD WIDE
THEY ARE ONE OF MOST COMMON SIZE BATTERIES 150 X 90 X 100MM
IN THE UNITED STATES A BATTERY OF THIS SIZE WILL COST YOU ABOUT $US29
IN AUSTRALIA A BATTERY OF THIS SIZE WILL COST ABOUT $AU50
EPAC BATTERIES ARE EASILY REPLACABLE BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR OUR PRODUCT.
THE TASK OF REPLACING THE BATTERIES TAKES MINUTES
THEY SUPPLY STRONGER POWER FOR LONGER THAN OTHER BATTERIES.
YOU CAN EXPECT UP TO 50 KM DISTANCES WITH PEDALLING.
EPAC BATTERIES WEIGH 9KG AND ARE 12 AMP 24 VOLT WHICH IS ONLY 3.5KG HEAVIER THAN 10 AMP 36VOLT Ni-MH BATTERIES (5.5kg).SYSTEM
NI-MH ELECTRIC BIKE BATTERY PACKS ARE MADE UP OF LOTS OF SMALL BATTERIES ALL JOINED TOGETHER IF ONE BATTERY FAILS YOU WILL HAVE TO THROW THE WHOLE PACK AWAY A LOSS OF UP TO $250
BECAUSE NT-MH ELECTRIC BIKE BATTERY PACKS ARE ALL JOINED TOGETHER THEY DONT LIKE SHOCK OR VIBRATION AS THIS CAN CAUSE THE CONNECTIONS TO FAIL AND AGAIN YOU WILL HAVE TO THROW THE PACK AWAY.
TO CLARIFY BATTERY OUT PUT AND USAGE, 12 AMHS MEANS THAT THE BATTERIES WILL PUT OUT 1 AMP FOR 12 HOURS OR 12 AMPS FOR 1 HOUR
TO PRODUCE 200 WATTS OF POWER YOU NEED 12 AMPS
A 200 WATT MOTOR CAN DRAW UP TO 30 AMPS UNDER HIGH LOAD
SO THE DISTANCE TRAVELLED DEPENDS ON HOW YOU MANAGE THE LOAD ON THE MOTOR

250 WATT MOTOR REQUIRES 15 AMPS TO RUN FOR 1 HOUR UNDER LOAD
COST WITH SEALED LEAD ACID $AU8.30 OR $US6.25 PER 1 AMP 15AMPS $AU100 $US75
SEALED LEAD ACID WEIGHT .83Kgs OR 1.9lbs PER 1 AMP 15 AMPS 12.5Kgs OR 22.5lbs
COST NICKEL-METAL-HYDRIDE $AU19.30 OR $US14.50 PER AMP 15 AMPS $AU290 OR $US220

500 WATT MOTOR REQUIRES 30 AMPS TO RUN FOR 1 HOUR UNDER LOAD
NICKEL-METAL-HYDRIDE WEIGHT .42Kgs or .12lbs PER AMP 30 AMPS 12.7kgs OR 37lbs
COST WITH NICKEL-METAL-HYDRIDE $AU19.30 OR $US14.50 PER 1 AMP 30 AMPS $580 OR $US440


TRY TO BUY A REPLACEMENT LITHIUM-ION OR NICKEL-METAL-HYDRIDE BATTERY IN AUSTRALIA

Aging is a concern with most lithium-ion batteries and many manufacturers remain silent about this issue. Some capacity deterioration is noticeable after one year, whether the battery is in use or not. The battery frequently fails after two or three years. It should be noted that other chemistries also have age-related degenerative effects. This is especially true for nickel-metal-hydride if exposed to high ambient temperatures. At the same time, lithium-ion packs are known to have served for five years in some applications

FOR FOR MORE INFORATION GO TO http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm "

 

[Miles]

Thanks, Sturdly

That's more evidence in favour of the prosecution. Are the defence not going to offer any evidence? Simple assertions, such as that components are "MADE" to do something, are hearsay, and have no value.

 

[sean]

Made and done, it's a nice ride.. I'll post up some pics soon..
24V w/ 20A SLA batteries and I have riden up to ~10 miles and still >24V.. Top speed ~25-26 on flat after a long ways of accelerating, it goes quickly up to 22..
And climbing a rather steep bridges it'll hold 14-15 mph.. Or if starting from a dead stop 10mph..

Anyway I will start a new thread with pics of it and my V1.0 version..
~Sean

 

[sean]

Here are some pictures of my bike:
Version 1.0

This configuration with a 9 tooth motor gear and a 90 tooth crank gear along with a 24 tooth chainring resulted in a top speed of ~24 mph in top gear. However whenever you wanted to pedal it was rather retarded with only the 24 tooth front chainring.... I also didn't like my motor mount so I revised...

Version 1.1
This bike has a lashout gearhead, 4.7-1 ratio then goes from a 17 tooth motor gear to a 90 tooth chainring resulting in a cadence of about 112.
This version has a chain tensioner and a little different motor mount utilizing the water bottle holder bolts. This has a 26, 39 and 52 tooth chainring on the crank. This results in a range of speeds from 9mph to 30.6 (theoretically) more realistically a top speed of ~25mph without wind.

I have been riding this version to work for about 10 days (only 6 workdays) and haven't riden every day but I have riden ~155 miles in the last 10 days. I average anywhere from 20mph to ~24 mph depending on wind, and with a tailwind today I averaged ~26 on the way there and about 19 with the headwind in the afternoon (a vicious headwind)

Anyway Heres what I built..

The only problem I am having is that the internal 24v controller on the kolmorgen motor seems to overheat after about 8 miles at 23-25mph... it overheats at ~185 degrees f on the controller side of the motor. Then it takes a couple minutes to cool back down and turn back on. I ride about 8.5 miles each way to work everyday so some days I have to pedal other days I make it just fine.

I am really wanting to get an external crystalyte controller for at least 48 volts and run this thing at a higher voltage with an external controller. I think it will really come to life with that!
~Sean
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7205482@N03/sets/72157600395113016/

 

[sean]

How do you get picture to post??


here is the album..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7205482@N03/sets/72157600395113016/

 

[knoxie]

Hey

I like it! good use of a stock Kol motor! and yes you will notice a significant increase in performance with a modified motor such as mine, I can run 1,600W if I need to! that should be enough for your tranny! may accelerate quite well! I am going to do something similar driving through a Nuvinci geared hub.

The stock controller in those Kol motors is rubbish, I would scoop it out and put an external controller to it, it will all run much smoother and more reliably with a heck of a lot more power.

Thanks for the pictures!

Knoxie

 

[fechter]

The Kollmorgen motor is much easier to wire for an external controller than the BMC motor. I'd guess about half the heat is coming from the controller with the stock setup.