Dillenger 1000 Watt, 48 Volt, 10Ah, Front wheel kit

[KINNINVIEKID]

Today I took off the Knobbly MTB tyres and fitted a pair of Kenda K west puncture resistant tyres along with a pair of slime filled tubes.
I have set them at 60psi and the ride is far more comfortable now.
It also seems to sit quite happily on the flat at 26.5Mph.
I have also sorted the lack of braking by fitting a pair of Clark Exo Skeletal hydraulic brakes.
I got around the front motor clearance by fitting 2 x 2.5mm Clark hub spacers and now there is 1mm clearance between caliper and motor..
The brakes work great and the back locks up easily enough and I reckon the front probably would if I was stupid enough to pull it that hard.

 

[Dillenger_Australia]

Hi Bob, looks really great! Regarding the pedal assist issue, please let me know if you have had the problem sorted out by the service staff.

Cheers

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

I have had a couple of e-mails from them and sent them photos of the sensor that they asked for.
Hopefully they will send me another sensor to try(the cheapest option) and if that does not solve it then it must be the controller at fault.
Luckily its still rideable by using the throttle.
Thanks for your concern.

 

[Lebowski]

I didn't see any torque arms on there, make sure you have those fitted as it seems to be quite a powerfull motor and lots of people kissed tarmac after the motor spun out of the front dropouts !

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

Torque arm comes in the kit and is fitted very securely.
Good old fashioned steel forks as well which helps :wink:

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

2 weeks after reporting my RPAS problem and no sign of the replacement sensor yet.
Thats a shame as several people are watching my posts on other forums before deciding wether to buy the same kit or not!

 

[Samd]

http://www.greenbikekit.com/dual-hall-pedelec-sensor-12-magnets.html

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

Thats the one but after paying £729 for the kit I would expect the problem to be sorted under warranty especially as it only worked for 2 weeks before failing.

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

A full month after reporting my pedelec failure to Dillenger and they have still not sorted anything.
If this is the level of their customer service then people should think twice about which kit to buy over here.
Trading Standards have advised me to give them another 7 days then if its not sorted the kits going back for a refund.
Shame as it worked well for the first couple of weeks.

 

[2old]

Did Dillenger ever correct your problem?

 

[Russell]

This is not the way you want the spokes:



When spoke heads aren't seated properly they tend to move in and out and ultimately break off. They should have used spokes with shorter J-bends or spoked it with all heads out (see pic below) if they wanted to use the those spokes.



See how heads are flush even though they used big 12g spokes.

-R

 

[2old]

Russel, thanks; I ordered a Dillenger kit yesterday and will check the wheel build. The proximity of their warehouse and relatively low price were attractive for my first attempt at an ebike, but the quality of the kit may be suspect if that's all they know about wheel building.

 

[Dillenger_Australia]

I can assure you that we have every option of wheel building available to us and over the past few years we have experimented with just about everything you can think of, including the tighter radius that allows for the neater seating onto the hub. The tighter radius did not fair well in testing compared to the larger radius. Yes, it looks neater but the smaller radius is stress concentrating and the spoke failure at the bend was measurably higher when we tested this way. Our spoke failures on the 1000W hubs are so low that I can count the number we've replaced in the last 6 months on 1 hand. Even then, we do stock the spokes as spares just in case (of every wheel size we sell).

Sam, Dillenger

Russel, thanks; I ordered a Dillenger kit yesterday and will check the wheel build. The proximity of their warehouse and relatively low price were attractive for my first attempt at an ebike, but the quality of the kit may be suspect if that's all they know about wheel building.

 

[Dillenger_Australia]

Hi Robert, we've sent you the replacement you ordered 2 weeks ago. Regrettably it has not been received (my apologies for that).

I've been messaging you constantly but if you've felt out of the loop or let down by our customer service than I am very sorry. I would feel the same way in your place.

Looking back over your messages I actually don't think it is a pedal assist sensor fault. I think that it is a controller fault (as you also eluded to after the 06 error message on the display).

We have spare controllers on hand. Today I'll send both a new controller and a pedal assist sensor replacement to your address in Durham, UK. I will email you the tracking number to @msn.com email account.

I hope that we can hold off any other negative comments to allow the time for these new parts to arrive and for you to be able to get your converted bike back up and performing at 100%

Downtime is a pain when you've ordered something expensive and then spent a lot of time on it. I know where you're coming from completely. We'll have you up and buzzing around again on your e-bike creation ASAP.

Sam, Dillenger

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

Looking forward to it.
Luckily I can still use the bike,its just the RPAS thats not working.
I didnt think I would use it much to be honest but after trying it out I found it to be much easier than constantly adjusting the throttle with the terrain(very hilly here in the dales).
A simple prod or 2 on the button when approaching hills and up she goes.

 

[metalmangler76]

Good luck dealing with them. I had to wait for 2 weeks just 2 get them to give me the P values for my kit. Roger was a real wanker and I eventually had to have my Controller repaired at my own cost and about 7 wasted hours online with no results. I would never purchase any thing from them again.

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

I needed my P values as well(my own fault!).
I emailed them and got it sorted within the hour.

 

[Dillenger_Australia]

Good luck dealing with them. I had to wait for 2 weeks just 2 get them to give me the P values for my kit. Roger was a real wanker and I eventually had to have my Controller repaired at my own cost and about 7 wasted hours online with no results. I would never purchase any thing from them again.

Hi Jeff, Roger is a bit of a w*nker (sorry Roger) but I've just been through the transcripts and you were sent the P values in the chat session. I see after we were a bit late getting back to you that we also offered to replace your controller, free of charge (if resetting the P values did not get your kit back to 100%).

I understand your partner was also on chat asking a similar set of questions about how to reset the P values on the display (and similar). It can be a problem with the system sometimes when we're responding to 2 different people about the 1 case so if we've let you down in the instance I do apologise.

I trust resetting the correct P values has fixed your problem.

From reading the transcript it sounds like one of the P values was changed to limit your speed (annoying i know!) so hopefully you're up and going 100% now.

If there' anything else I can do, please don't' hesitate to contact me directly through ES.

Sam Sewell
Dillenger

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

I would like to thank Sam Dillenger for getting my problem sorted quickly(4 days from Australia) once he realised the original replacements had been lost.
They are currently working on a new customer care package which should speed things up greatly for us here in the UK and elsewhere in the world as it will be a multi lingual site.

It turned out to be just the sensor that had failed and now its sorted its a joy to ride especially on longer rides and the battery use is far more economical using PAS as the throttle was only giving either a small amount of power or was flat out.

 

[DustyTrailhead]

I'm sold. I have been looking for a kit for weeks, considering them all: hub (DD and geared) and mid drive. I have a couple of doner bikes, recumbent and SS...it was really confusing. This thread broke the logjam, that and $900 + $31 shipping for motor and battery. Come to find out cost was the biggest consideration. Yowser.

 

[DustyTrailhead]

Installed the kit on the SS (42t x 16t). Maximum speed on the flat unassisted is ~26mph. Assisted it is the same because of the gearing. My legs stop providing power around 20 mph, so I'm thinking of getting a 44t or 46t CR. Range is about 12 mi., peddle assist at 3-5, mostly 5, and some unassisted full throttle, including 1/2 mi. 11% grade and 4 other shorter but steeper grades. This is back and forth, so I also went down those grades. I left with 54v and returned with 46v. The LCD battery guage showed one bar; I assume it was near out. No complaints; speed and range seem typical.
I do have one complaint about the battery mount. On my maiden voyage I hit bump and almost crapped my drawers with the loud cracking noise coming from behind. It sounded like the bicycle had broken in two, so I quickly applied the brakes. (I am being really polite.) The source of the noise is the slop between the mounting plate and the battery mount slots. It's egregious. I tried several things and finally settled on a couple of door shims, jammed between the plate and battery, fore and aft. However, it only serves to diminish not eliminate the noise.
Delivery was in 5 days and the packaging was good. There were no missing parts. Assembly was straight forward, and everything worked first try. Documentation leaves a little to be desired. I relied on the Solarbike installation YouTube for the motor wheel installation.

 

[motomech]

My mountain bikes will accept a 50T CR. It's close to the frame, so larger would require a wider BB.
You need a 11T sm. gear cassette. With 11t X 50T, one can pedal up to 24-25 mph.

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

Installed the kit on the SS (42t x 16t). Maximum speed on the flat unassisted is ~26mph. Assisted it is the same because of the gearing. My legs stop providing power around 20 mph, so I'm thinking of getting a 44t or 46t CR. Range is about 12 mi., peddle assist at 3-5, mostly 5, and some unassisted full throttle, including 1/2 mi. 11% grade and 4 other shorter but steeper grades. This is back and forth, so I also went down those grades. I left with 54v and returned with 46v. The LCD battery guage showed one bar; I assume it was near out. No complaints; speed and range seem typical.
I do have one complaint about the battery mount. On my maiden voyage I hit bump and almost crapped my drawers with the loud cracking noise coming from behind. It sounded like the bicycle had broken in two, so I quickly applied the brakes. (I am being really polite.) The source of the noise is the slop between the mounting plate and the battery mount slots. It's egregious. I tried several things and finally settled on a couple of door shims, jammed between the plate and battery, fore and aft. However, it only serves to diminish not eliminate the noise.
Delivery was in 5 days and the packaging was good. There were no missing parts. Assembly was straight forward, and everything worked first try. Documentation leaves a little to be desired. I relied on the Solarbike installation YouTube for the motor wheel installation.

One bar on the lcd means 20 to 40% left,I have managed to get 20 miles out of mine.
My battery mount was (is) great on the full sus bike but a couple of weeks ago I put it on my hardtail bike (BBS02) and fitted the support struts on it.
After that it rattled like crazyso I fitted some rubber mat to quiet it down.
4 days later the rack snapped at the rear of the strut mountings!

Luckily I had got another seatpost rack off ebay(a Topeak MTX) and the battery mounting plate went on without problem so I have put it back on the Dillenger bike and its great again and noise free.

I bought another cheap seatpost rack and pannier bag set off ebay and these are now on the BBS with a pair of Multistar Lipos in and holding up well without any struts on,I am waiting for a triangle bag then the batteries will be moved there for safety(I dont want them falling off the back!).

I have bought a 48-38-28 tooth chainwheel set to replace the current 44-34-24 so I can keep up with the pedalling.

 

[DustyTrailhead]

Is the LVC on the controller? It appears that the LVC is 44v for a 48v battery. I had 46v, so it would have taken me farther. I think I could extend the range with a bigger CR, even tho I would burn more watts on the steeps. I was considering a Sturmey Archer RF5, 120mm OLD. The 120mm is hard to find in the Stares. Looks like in UK bike shops they are a trip hazzard. Anyway, that's a $130 to $140...and another cable...and another handlebar control. But, maybe I should go bigger yet on the CR, like 48t or even 50t. I need to keep in mind that Seattle has some steeps. Even with a 42t I have to peddle somewhat vigorously on an 11% grade, although at 12mph. I think I need a quiver of chainrings...
I was wrenching in the garage on the battery mount last night for about 2 hrs. Nothing I came up with was satisfactory. My next plan is to mount it permanently to the rack and use the rack's not-so-quick connect to remove the battery, rack and all. I will have to move the controller down to the frame...just peachy. MTX looks like a sweet solution, but I can't see spending the money just yet.
Here is a link to some photos:https: https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B-ZSFqgetxFZQUdkRzNmSkFJNnM/edit. I will try again if it's a fail.

 

[KINNINVIEKID]

LVc is on the controller I believe.
To figure out the range I did a 16 mile round trip then just rode up and down the road outside till it cut out.
That way I did not have far to pedal!
My MTX was only £9 secondhand on ebay,they are over £40 new just for the basic rack.