DIY anodising
- Thread starter Miles
- Start date
gwhy!
100 kW
This is a very good step by step guide to diy anodizing http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml I have not done this myself but a friend of mine uses these techniques with great success using cheap clothes dye .
CPF has some good threads on the subject.
when i get a moment i'll dig 'em up if you can't locate them.
when i get a moment i'll dig 'em up if you can't locate them.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
This may sound like a bit of a thread-drift, but...
For those who aren't familiar with powder coating, it leaves a hard ceramic-like finish on parts. The powder can be purchased in every color of the rainbow. A battery is needed to electrify the part and powder. A small air compressor sprays the electrically charged particles onto the part, electro-magnetism holds it there, and the finish is baked in an oven. Any old oven that was thrown away can be set-up in the back yard to cure PC parts.
It leaves a hard scratch-resistant finish with no drips. Just like home anodising, PC can make a home-made part look VERY professional. Works on any conductive part, steel, aluminum, chrome, brass, copper, etc. I haven't tried this yet, but I want to eventually be doing anodising and PC in my garage.
http://www.powderperfect.com/diy.asp
http://www.instructables.com/id/Powder-Coat-a-Bike-Frame-with-Logos/
For those who aren't familiar with powder coating, it leaves a hard ceramic-like finish on parts. The powder can be purchased in every color of the rainbow. A battery is needed to electrify the part and powder. A small air compressor sprays the electrically charged particles onto the part, electro-magnetism holds it there, and the finish is baked in an oven. Any old oven that was thrown away can be set-up in the back yard to cure PC parts.
It leaves a hard scratch-resistant finish with no drips. Just like home anodising, PC can make a home-made part look VERY professional. Works on any conductive part, steel, aluminum, chrome, brass, copper, etc. I haven't tried this yet, but I want to eventually be doing anodising and PC in my garage.
http://www.powderperfect.com/diy.asp
http://www.instructables.com/id/Powder-Coat-a-Bike-Frame-with-Logos/
despite the fact i bookmark everything, or actually because of, i can't seem to locate the link i had in mind.
but here's a few i did have that can be added to the pile, some which are sorta referenced in the previous links.
http://forum.caswellplating.com/
http://homepages.pavilion.co.uk/nickfull/anodise.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20051004081330/http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/t-anodis.htm
http://www.platingsales.com/anodizingspecialty.html
but here's a few i did have that can be added to the pile, some which are sorta referenced in the previous links.
http://forum.caswellplating.com/
http://homepages.pavilion.co.uk/nickfull/anodise.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20051004081330/http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/t-anodis.htm
http://www.platingsales.com/anodizingspecialty.html
Thud
1 MW
Any one interested in doing this?
its quite simple. A couple samples I did tonight in aplication:
Adding disc brakes to the build. 20" skyway front & flipflop rear.Kenda kontact 2.1
its quite simple. A couple samples I did tonight in aplication:
Adding disc brakes to the build. 20" skyway front & flipflop rear.Kenda kontact 2.1
12p3phPMDC
1 kW
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2009
- Messages
- 462
Looks good Thud...
I had read through Caswells stuff and another DIY site on this several months ago.
Is there a specific method you did?
I had read through Caswells stuff and another DIY site on this several months ago.
Is there a specific method you did?
Thud
1 MW
Thanks 12,
I read up on the process on several of the previously listed sites,they all read very simularly.
Batery acid was already in the garage. I used about a 1/2 gallon of distilled water. The only real nasty bit is Lye (drain opener)for final etching of oxides.
I am using standard powdered rit dyes with good results. My old camera does not do the color Justice.
I know many guys opt for classic black. I say color it up!
I read up on the process on several of the previously listed sites,they all read very simularly.
Batery acid was already in the garage. I used about a 1/2 gallon of distilled water. The only real nasty bit is Lye (drain opener)for final etching of oxides.
I am using standard powdered rit dyes with good results. My old camera does not do the color Justice.
I know many guys opt for classic black. I say color it up!
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Thud, since you actually recently learned, and have hands-on experience, which site was the most useful? (you mention they are all similar as expected, but is there one site that is best for details, pics, etc)
Thud
1 MW
Spin- the focuser site by far has the best combo of info & visual stimulus.
http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html
His home busniess set up is very nice.
the good info is on the bottom of the page
#2 is this text describing the process
http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/anodize.shtml
very clear tech info for a DIY'r.
If you read through a few sites you will see some contradiction in a couple areas. I know now That Rit dyes do work (havent tried black yet) I didn't de-smut with any process, Just a rinse in clean water before anodizing.
http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html
His home busniess set up is very nice.
the good info is on the bottom of the page
#2 is this text describing the process
http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/anodize.shtml
very clear tech info for a DIY'r.
If you read through a few sites you will see some contradiction in a couple areas. I know now That Rit dyes do work (havent tried black yet) I didn't de-smut with any process, Just a rinse in clean water before anodizing.
Thud
1 MW
Bump,
been trying a few new colors today....
the royal blue is nice....the far edit LEFT (the other right)
is actualy a failed part...but lavenred is nice too LOL!
been trying a few new colors today....
the royal blue is nice....the far edit LEFT (the other right)
is actualy a failed part...but lavenred is nice too LOL!
grindz145
1 MW
That's freaking awesome Todd. And I love that you brought back the 4 year old thread to do it.
Dauntless
100 TW
Thud said:
If you mean adding the discs, YES. Where does one find the flanges, or whatever you call them?
liveforphysics
100 TW
I have the power supplies to do 60v at 800A to anodize with, or 500V at 20A or 3kv at 500mA (Ive got a substantial power supply selection).
I wonder if I could do some low acid percentage anodizing at very low temps (like dry ice in the H2SO4 solution with anti-freeze) and make an extremely deep passivation layer.
I wonder if I could do some low acid percentage anodizing at very low temps (like dry ice in the H2SO4 solution with anti-freeze) and make an extremely deep passivation layer.
Way to go..... I investigated hard anodising a few years back. I'll dig out what I've got. Maybe a semi-hard regime that's still capable of some colouration? 25 microns is plenty of thickness for wear and tear...liveforphysics said:
These are the two books I've got:
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=dftTAAAAMAAJ&q=surface+treatment+finishing+aluminium+alloys+volume+2&dq=surface+treatment+finishing+aluminium+alloys+volume+2&hl=en&sa=X&ei=zwkmUc-ZKJKr0AWqgoHwDA&ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=1hMfAQAAIAAJ&q=technology+anodizing+aluminium&dq=technology+anodizing+aluminium&hl=en&sa=X&ei=aOMlUbrhPIu10QXfqoC4Dw&ved=0CDsQ6AEwAA
A couple of references I found just now:
http://nzic.org.nz/ChemProcesses/metals/8E.pdf
http://infohouse.p2ric.org/ref/25/24868.pdf
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=dftTAAAAMAAJ&q=surface+treatment+finishing+aluminium+alloys+volume+2&dq=surface+treatment+finishing+aluminium+alloys+volume+2&hl=en&sa=X&ei=zwkmUc-ZKJKr0AWqgoHwDA&ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=1hMfAQAAIAAJ&q=technology+anodizing+aluminium&dq=technology+anodizing+aluminium&hl=en&sa=X&ei=aOMlUbrhPIu10QXfqoC4Dw&ved=0CDsQ6AEwAA
A couple of references I found just now:
http://nzic.org.nz/ChemProcesses/metals/8E.pdf
http://infohouse.p2ric.org/ref/25/24868.pdf
Thud
1 MW
Dauntless said:
specific to the skyways: the front wheel was the tough one...had to make custom blocks to fit the molded part of the wheel, anti-crush spacers & then position the 6 bolt disc pattern to miss the 5 web pattern of the rim itselff.
The rear one is a simlpe adapter witht e disc pattern that threads onto to "flop" side 30x1mm of the flip flop hub. The parts were concieved & procured on the basment lathe....its a well kept secret that I do custom work for forum members. Let me know is there is anything you can't live without...i'll put you in the que.
liveforphysics
100 TW
Miles said:
Yes. Like super super hard anodizing. I'm not super interested in the coloring, but I love the wear and chemical resistance attributes of a well formed thick alumina passivization layer.
It would be a fun challenge to see how thick of a layer would be possible to develop. IIRC, current merely drives the speed of the plating, but has no effect on the depth, which comes down to temperature and potential driving the passivization reaction. Perhaps with a Q-tip-like electrode with some dillute H2SO4 on it, and the part itself in an evaporting LN2 bath, I could form very thick passivization layer. Perhaps the thickest ever done.
You are better off with PEO also know as MAO or Keronite
It doesn't flake off and works up to 900C
"Equipment costs in an MAO ceramic line are less than in hard coat anodizing. In MAO ceramic coating there are no sulfuric acid fumes generated as in anodizing. These acidic fumes require venting and scrubbing equipment, as well as filters to purchase and dispose of. In hard coat anodizing, electrolyte baths must be temperature controlled at around 32 degrees F., requiring chillers. Ceramic coating electrolytes are not as temperature sensitive and require no such apparatuses. Energy requirements will vary depending upon proprietary processes used in the baths. Hard coat anodizing uses low DC voltages for extended periods, while MAO ceramic coats use high AC voltages for shorter durations"
Hardness Wear resistance Precision Chemical Stability
Keronite ceramics can include up to ~80% of extremely hard crystalline phases such as corundum (which is the basis of the mineral sapphire).
Hardness's of over 2000 HV0.1 can therefore be achieved, although this will depend on the substrate and the coating variant - more typically, hardness's of ~1600 HV0.1 are achieved on aluminium.
This is far harder than hard anodising, or even common wear counterparts such as hard steels, glass and sand.
Despite their extreme hardness, the Keronite ceramics are also surprisingly compliant, with typical Young's modulus values of just ~30 GPa. This, together with excellent adhesion, makes them very strain tolerant. Altogether, these properties deliver exceptional wear resistance.
The Keronite ceramics also possess complex fine-scale pore structures which enable them to retain friction modifiers or lubricants to provide further enhancements.
As with anodising, precise dimensional control is achievable, even on components with complex geometries. The Keronite ceramic does not suffer from the problems encountered by anodising on sharp corners.
Our process engineering ensures exceptional control and repeatability in production.
Keronite also has great experience in masking and selective coating and in engineering pre or post-treatments.
The Keronite layers are complex mixtures of ceramic phases which are very resistant to a wide range of chemicals and thus present exceptional corrosion protection for a wide range of aluminium and magnesium alloys.
Unlike anodizing which presents corrosion paths from the surface all the way down to the substrate, the Keronite layer protects even sharp radii and presents a continuous ceramic barrier, offering excellent corrosion protection - for instance over 2000 hours of ASTM B117 salt spray endurance without change, even on magnesium!
Thermal Electrical Adhesion Environmental
The Keronite layers can withstand continuous exposure to temperatures of up to 900°C: well above the capabilities of the parent metals, without undergoing any microstructural changes or damage.
The excellent adhesion to the substrate, combined with the layer's strain tolerance, makes it resistant to thermal shock or cycling.
A wider range of thermal conductivities can be achieved: from ~0.2 to ~7 W m-1 K-1. Low values are used for thermal barrier protection applications, whilst at the opposite extreme, thin layers with relatively high thermal conductivity offer electrical insulation with minimal thermal resistance for applications such as heat sinks in electronic thermal management.
At the opposite extreme, thin layers can provide wear, corrosion or electrical protection whilst presenting minimal thermal resistance.
As with the thermal properties, the Keronite process is versatile enough to deliver electrical resistance at either end of the scale.
For instance, on aluminium, the Keronite layer can deliver dielectric strength in excess of 2.5kV even at temperatures of over 500°C, with dielectric strengths of up to ~120 kV/mm.
Conversely, thin layers can also be formed that provide wear and corrosion protection and are also electrically conductive, making them particularly suited to RF shielding applications.
Unlike many surface treatments, Keronite is not a deposited "coating". It is grown from the parent metal and has an excellent interfacial adhesion. This combines with the layer's strain tolerance ("compliance" or "flexibility") to give excellent mechanical stability.
The wide range of Keronite ceramic surfaces, with unique fine-scale and multi-scale pore structures also provides an ideal base for top-coats such as polymeric paints or adhesives.
Keronite is proud of its status as a Clean Technology.
The process does not use or produce:
Heavy metals, such as chrome and vanadium
Strong Acids.
VoCs
Toxic or hazardous waste
--------
Just have to get a high voltage supply
It doesn't flake off and works up to 900C
"Equipment costs in an MAO ceramic line are less than in hard coat anodizing. In MAO ceramic coating there are no sulfuric acid fumes generated as in anodizing. These acidic fumes require venting and scrubbing equipment, as well as filters to purchase and dispose of. In hard coat anodizing, electrolyte baths must be temperature controlled at around 32 degrees F., requiring chillers. Ceramic coating electrolytes are not as temperature sensitive and require no such apparatuses. Energy requirements will vary depending upon proprietary processes used in the baths. Hard coat anodizing uses low DC voltages for extended periods, while MAO ceramic coats use high AC voltages for shorter durations"
Hardness Wear resistance Precision Chemical Stability
Keronite ceramics can include up to ~80% of extremely hard crystalline phases such as corundum (which is the basis of the mineral sapphire).
Hardness's of over 2000 HV0.1 can therefore be achieved, although this will depend on the substrate and the coating variant - more typically, hardness's of ~1600 HV0.1 are achieved on aluminium.
This is far harder than hard anodising, or even common wear counterparts such as hard steels, glass and sand.
Despite their extreme hardness, the Keronite ceramics are also surprisingly compliant, with typical Young's modulus values of just ~30 GPa. This, together with excellent adhesion, makes them very strain tolerant. Altogether, these properties deliver exceptional wear resistance.
The Keronite ceramics also possess complex fine-scale pore structures which enable them to retain friction modifiers or lubricants to provide further enhancements.
As with anodising, precise dimensional control is achievable, even on components with complex geometries. The Keronite ceramic does not suffer from the problems encountered by anodising on sharp corners.
Our process engineering ensures exceptional control and repeatability in production.
Keronite also has great experience in masking and selective coating and in engineering pre or post-treatments.
The Keronite layers are complex mixtures of ceramic phases which are very resistant to a wide range of chemicals and thus present exceptional corrosion protection for a wide range of aluminium and magnesium alloys.
Unlike anodizing which presents corrosion paths from the surface all the way down to the substrate, the Keronite layer protects even sharp radii and presents a continuous ceramic barrier, offering excellent corrosion protection - for instance over 2000 hours of ASTM B117 salt spray endurance without change, even on magnesium!
Thermal Electrical Adhesion Environmental
The Keronite layers can withstand continuous exposure to temperatures of up to 900°C: well above the capabilities of the parent metals, without undergoing any microstructural changes or damage.
The excellent adhesion to the substrate, combined with the layer's strain tolerance, makes it resistant to thermal shock or cycling.
A wider range of thermal conductivities can be achieved: from ~0.2 to ~7 W m-1 K-1. Low values are used for thermal barrier protection applications, whilst at the opposite extreme, thin layers with relatively high thermal conductivity offer electrical insulation with minimal thermal resistance for applications such as heat sinks in electronic thermal management.
At the opposite extreme, thin layers can provide wear, corrosion or electrical protection whilst presenting minimal thermal resistance.
As with the thermal properties, the Keronite process is versatile enough to deliver electrical resistance at either end of the scale.
For instance, on aluminium, the Keronite layer can deliver dielectric strength in excess of 2.5kV even at temperatures of over 500°C, with dielectric strengths of up to ~120 kV/mm.
Conversely, thin layers can also be formed that provide wear and corrosion protection and are also electrically conductive, making them particularly suited to RF shielding applications.
Unlike many surface treatments, Keronite is not a deposited "coating". It is grown from the parent metal and has an excellent interfacial adhesion. This combines with the layer's strain tolerance ("compliance" or "flexibility") to give excellent mechanical stability.
The wide range of Keronite ceramic surfaces, with unique fine-scale and multi-scale pore structures also provides an ideal base for top-coats such as polymeric paints or adhesives.
Keronite is proud of its status as a Clean Technology.
The process does not use or produce:
Heavy metals, such as chrome and vanadium
Strong Acids.
VoCs
Toxic or hazardous waste
--------
Just have to get a high voltage supply
Thud
1 MW
I just think its prety.
