Do rim brakes wear the rim?

23skidoo

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Feb 22, 2012
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I have a rear hub with disc brake and use it more heavily than the front rim brake, partly because it's quieter. Have people damaged the rim under heavy use of rim brakes? If so, has anyone experienced catastrophic rim failure while riding? In my search for this answer, I see some concern about spoke breakage related to disc brake use.

Thanks
Darrel
 
In the olden days when I rode a bike only on nice summer days I never had a problem with rim wear from the brake pads. One time however I was out riding in the early spring and came upon some road construction. I decided to ride through it but it had rained the night before so I quickly ran into some deep mud and my wheels quickly loaded up with the stuff. After getting through the muck I flushed out the pads with my water bottle but when I applied the brakes on the first good downhill I could hear severe scraping noises. I rode the rest of the way home using the brakes minimally but the damage had already been done, that one decent had scored the rims badly.

Afer I built my first e-bike I routinely would get out riding as soon as temps climbed above freezing. The problem was after a hard winter the snowmelt that I often rode through contained an awful lot of metal particles which would become embedded in my brake pads. These particles would then scour my rims when I applied the brakes and the front wheel seemed to be the most susceptible to this type of damage (maybe because it parted the water for the rear wheel?). In any event I'd have to remove and clean the flecks of metal from the pads after each ride. After a half-dozen rides in these conditions my new front motor wheel rim already showed significant wear.

For this reason, and for the stopping power my current e-bikes have front disc brakes and the second bike has them on the rear as well.

-R
 
I have never worn out a rim from braking. Many pads though have been replaced.

The art & science of material engineering dictates composite brake pads must abrade slowly, distributing the heat of friction through particle disintegration. Even with bi-metallic pads, the hardness of the rim is superior to that of which is designed with foresight to wither and wear away. The only factor that can change the metric is flying debris; the dust and dirt and mud of the good old earth to act like the fine powder of Jeweler’s rouge – and even then only polishes the metal surface and glazes the pads – causing them to squeal, or… prematurely wear.

Such is the fate of pads by overt design to perish into dust and oblivion by force of action through rent of our joy to travel headlong into the fury of life profound in a flailing attempt to reduce our progress. And by similar purpose, for the rim to withstand the forces that conspire to collapse the calliope providing the sturdy support to wheels in motion.

I could scarcely imagine the opposite… although with enough coffee… <slurrrrp!> :wink:

One of two principle object materials must change: Either the pads themselves become harder, or the rim material becomes weaker.

With automobiles (and most likely many other applications) we have an option to purchase brake materials of varying hardness. High-Temp brakes for instance are typically very hard and loaded with materials commonly associated with refractory bricks and able to withstand tremendous heat. When amalgamations of this sort are employed, the pads are more durable – yet also more brittle, and definitely erode the disc, drum, or rotor. However we must also consider that all of these surfaces are conveniently serviceable or replaceable, and their best use is with heavy duty or racing applications where costs of maintenance are factored in the balance. Therefore, under normal conditions - hard brake pads on a bicycle rim would appear out of character with the function.

If we entertain however briefly that rims are softer, I fear the wheel might deform more easily or collapse without the necessary surface-hardening treatment to assuage ductility, to enhance elasticity, and to anneal the façades against unbridled friction. Such a condition would not be practical, nor would it be marketable for very long: Encountering such a rim would be noticeable.

That said, I have scored many rims by lack of attention. A diligent person would be wise to repair the situation as soon as possible. Once I lent my MtB to my former GF; notice that I put the emphasis on former. My fault; I forgot the Rule: Never lend your bike out to anyone. :roll:

Every mud puppy deserves a good bath. :)
~KF
PS – I too migrated to disc brakes to eliminate the majority of issues associated with messy rim brakes; I cain’t stands the squealing. Though now I have to tolerate singing rotors. No free lunch <sigh>
 
I've destroyed all my wheels by potholes/etc long before wearing the rim out became an issue. :lol:
 
I've made some pretty shiny, and put some scratches with pads not changed in time, or a pebble in the pads.

But always, heat buckled roads destroy a wheel long before rim braking could.
 
With many years of use, I've seen chrome plating wear on steel rims from break pads; but it never became anything more than a cosmetic issue. Aluminum alloy rims can score slightly from various types of wear, but usually not enough to require a remedy. My front hub motor rim came from the factory with machined scoring which only causes it to sound slightly different than the rear when applied, and it seems to work a little better than the polished chrome rear rim; not enough difference between the two to be objectionable though.
 
23skidoo, I agree with everyone else..the rims should last a lifetime in not damaged by potholes and what not. But you mentioned you use the rear brake more because it's quieter. If the rim brake is making noise the pads are ether dirty or not properly adjusted. Try removing the pads and lightly sanding them. Then reinstall and properly adjust them and they souldn't make any noise.

Bob
 
Rim brake compounds vary quite a bit so get a name brand and adjust them with a bit of toe-in to silence them if they squeal. While I'm mentioning compounds, I did try a set of Kool-Stop Salmon pads on the front of one of my bikes and while the performance in rain was exceptional they had too much grip in dry conditions and no matter how I adjusted them they squealed like a banshee most of the time.

-R
 
I as chatting to one of the 'lycras' at work last week, and he just replaced a set of rims due to wear from rim brakes - this was at 15,000Klms mind you! The braking surface was so worn out that it actually cracked in one place. A few other guys joined in the conversation with the same sort of thing (half the floor I work on rides daily).

They were aluminium rims, decent quality (not cheap alexrims or anything) if interested I can find out the brand, I'm certain he would know.
 
23skidoo said:
I have a rear hub with disc brake and use it more heavily than the front rim brake, partly because it's quieter. Have people damaged the rim under heavy use of rim brakes? If so, has anyone experienced catastrophic rim failure while riding?

Brake-related rim wear is progressive rather than episodic. You gradually grind away the rim sidewall, but you don't crush the rim from applying the brakes too hard. Brake track wear occurs predominantly in places where the soil is abrasive and people ride often in wet weather. Here in Austin, I hardly ever see rims worn out at the brake tracks. In Seattle, it was common for daily riders to have to rebuild wheels every year or two because of brake track wear.

The typical pattern is that the brake track becomes concave, and if that is ignored, the problem becomes apparent when the rim bead starts to bend outward in one spot, causing a "blip" in braking as the bulged spot passes the pads. Folks who fix the problem immediately don't go to the next step-- sudden blowout.

Chalo
 
I heated a front rim last fall so much that it warped under the braking pressure. I still have the wheel, maybe I should take a picture. The braking surface is concave in one spot. I noticed it when my braking started acting odd, pulsating each revolution.

This happened because I was going downhill at over 30mph on the ebike and only my front brake worked, and the light turned red on me at the last second. With two good working v-brakes, I would say it would take a massive hill/fast stop to heat them that much to warp. It was a narrow older mtb rim too.
 
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