Dream commuter bike build

[DrkAngel]

30-35mph for extended travel on the level would require a minimum 1500w output motor. (overvolted 1000w?)
Main inconsistency is your desire for effective pedal contribution.
Proper (effective) pedaling requires a reasonible upright position that creates more watts of wind resistance than sustainable pedal contribution (at 30mph+)

Mountain bike in upright pedaling position supplying 200w pedal contribution vs mountain bike in tuck position with motor only



Motor only in tuck position, with no pedal assist, has ~25% further range than upright pedaling position with 200w continuous rider contribution!

Even 400w continuous rider contribution does not match the aerodynamic advantage of a tuck position - motor only!
See - Mountain Bike Upright vs Tuck

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[Hyak]

Agree completely with DrkAngel above. I just completed a test to find out what a practical commute speed would be on a route that is almost half of yours including the elevation. Short answer was going over about 25mph was an exercise in futility. Pedaling didn't contribute much compared to the motor and I was just throwing amps into the wind. Once over 25, I could do better getting as aero as possible and using throttle than trying to pedal. In fact, I'm considering moving the throttle to the center of the bars so I don't have to stick my arm out on the side to activate it.

Setup was 11-34 rear and 42T front with stock BBSHD. Averaged 22mph. 12% Hill climbing was about 14 and got to over 40 on downhills. 80%+ of 48v 17ah battery used. No overheating and Grin chart for my setup does not predict it.

You could probably do your route at about 25mph average with two shark style batteries for redundancy and faster charging. That's a long commute with lots of opportunity for delay.

 

[dogman dan]

FWIW, on my commute, it was crucial at 25-30 mph, to sit up and look out.

Racing tucks are fine in a peloton, where you have pilot vehicles clearing the road ahead for the race. In an urban commute, fast riding in a tuck is asking to not see something you need to see real bad. Different thing on open road.

I could pedal, since I had a 56 tooth front ring. But it was not adding much since I was pulling 1000w, and pedaling 100.

Bent for the win, if you need to lower your resistance, and still see ahead good.

 

[Hyak]

When safe, I've been using the lower right position with success.

 

[E-HP]

When safe, I've been using the lower right position with success.

Hmmm personal preference, but I think I’d get a bigger battery before riding around in that position...


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