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E-Bike and PEV battery pack thermal design optimizations: a semi-technical research and implementation thread

BlueSwordM

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Jul 23, 2018
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After a considerable amount of thought, I’ve finally decided to write a post detailing a lot of my research, findings, experiments and general anecdotal information regarding battery pack thermal management.

As many of us know, keeping a battery pack at the right temperature is one of the best ways to keep each of the individual cells happy and living a long fruitful life : while achieving that goal with a single cell is rather simple, managing that within an entire battery pack filled with tens, to hundreds, to thousands of cells gets complicated rather quickly. Why? Well, as you scale up a battery pack, extracting the heat from an enclosed pack gets harder and harder; the center-most cells get stuck between other cells. Each additional row of cells increases thermal resistance, making the thermal situation worse.

At low charging or discharging speeds in normal environmental conditions, this doesn’t matter. However, as ambient temperatures drop or increase and as power density during these 2 events increase, temperature control starts becoming very important.

If the cells get too cold, charging speed, or safety, suffers; discharging becomes less efficient and you lose out on usable capacity until temperatures climb back up. If the cells get too hot, cycle life and longevity get worse. Too hot and safety issues start becoming a non-negligible issue.
If cell to cell temperatures vary too much, those temperature deltas will eventually result in cell to cell capacity and internal resistance (IR) differences will appear. If capacity and IR differences become severe enough, pack capacity utilisation drops and in the worst case scenario, the pack can become unusable.

All of these situations circle back to battery pack thermal conductivity or thermal resistance, its ability to conduct heat energy through the entire pack or resist temperature changes respectively. The more thermally conductive the pack is overall, the more thermally uniform it will be during moments of high thermal stress such as high power fast charging or regenerative breaking events. Our final goal would be minimize cell to cell variance and keeping cells in the optimal range as much as possible while minimizing energy input.

In larger vehicles like electric cars, the problem already has a solution : active liquid thermal management. While there are still many optimizatios that can be performed on top of that, which will be discussed further in the one of the next sections, it’s the best way to heat or cool down batteries.

The problem with liquid thermal management however is that you need a cooling loop, which increases system weight, cost and complexity. On a >=20kWh battery pack, this isn’t an issue. However, in most of the packs found in ebikes and other personal Light Electric Vehicles (LEVs) or Personal Electric Vehicles (PEVs) with battery capacities ranging from 0.5kWh to 10kWh, this kind of system is cumbersome, difficult to implement and rather annoying to deal with.
Therefore, we have to utilize other strategies to thermally manage our packs and keep them as thermally uniform as possible. Those require engineering skill, research and time to implement and this is why I’ve made this post : instead of us just talking sporadically in other threads on EndlessSphere and other forums, I’ve decided to talk about it here.

This semi-technical thread will be divided up into multiple thermal battery pack management techniques and optimizations. Each paper, finding or implementation will be numbered for easy documentation and research… ideally :)

1- Battery pack overbuilding.
2- Interconnect optimization.
3- Cell choice.

4- Thermal interface materials.
5- Thermal dissipation enhancements.
6- Phase Change Materials (PCMs).
7- Heating and cooling.

8- Charging algorithms.
9- Discharging algorithms.
10- Thermal runaway mitigation.

Make sure to contribute your findings as well, and document them with the proper number for ease of access and future references. Additionally, please add your sources for any papers, videos, websites or images from which you find new things to share. Thank you all and have a good end of the year.
 
4- Thermal interface materials.


5- Thermal dissipation enhancements.


6- Phase Change Materials (PCMs).
-> Open foam PCM (by AnthonyC)
Battery cells are held in an open cell rigid foam permeated with wax. When a cell goes into TR heat is dumped by the wax vapourising and the foam draws in surrounding melted wax, a bit like a heat pipe.

7- Heating and cooling.
-> Flexible wire or PCB heaters
Both JLCPCB and PCBway now supply flexible heating elements to custom shape and size, which should be easier to use. Blanket heating wires might work, heated grip pads not so much, underfloor heating elements seemed like a non-starter.
 
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8- Charging algorithms.


9- Discharging algorithms.


10- Thermal runaway mitigation.
 
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1- Battery pack overbuilding, or overspeccing as others call it, is a simple technique: it involves giving your battery pack a much larger performance margin. In other fields, it is called a Factor of Safety¹.

For example, let's just say your application requires a range target of 50km. You could pick a pack that's rated for a range of 50km, but assuming you have other tasks or much more demanding conditions, it might not be enough.

Therefore, you have to add a certain safety margin in case things go south. Range is the simplest one to optimize for depending on your cost and weight sensitivity. You can add a safety margin of 1.1x, 1.5x, or even 2x.

However, in battery pack thermal design, it's a more complex balancing act and yet, a lot more interesting. For example, let's just say you have a specific power requirement, say 1500W: you could either get Battery Pack 1 capable of delivering 1500W with a capacity of 1000Wh, or a Battery Pack 2 capable of 3000W with a capacity of 700Wh.

The first pack fulfills our criteria, but since it's being pushed to its limits, it will heat up considerably more and might not even provide 1500W outside of optimal conditions. You could pick the other pack that is capable of 3000W, 2x that of the other pack, but it only has a capacity of 700Wh, giving you less range most of the time.

What's the solution? A pack overbuilder would tell you to double the capacity of the Battery Pack 1 to 2000Wh! Doubling the pack size also doubles the power output, so you get much more range and you get the same power of Battery Pack 2 at almost triple the range. You also keep it very cool.

Of course, that 2000Wh battery pack weighs twice as much as much and costs a lot more, but many electric vehicles take this approach to put less thought into thermal management and power optimizations.

In summary, an overspecced pack will stay cooler and healthier during charging and discharging because inherent to its design, it is designed so its true capabilities are never used.

It's the simplest technique to fix thermal issues, but this only works if you have low cost, volume and weight constraints. Furthermore, absolute charging speeds do improve, but relative charging speeds stay the same.

¹Factor of safety - Wikipedia
 
Anyone interested in contributing or commenting in this thread, please feel free to do so!
 
Is there a reason we couldnt use something like fine silicon carbide powder? For the weight gained and amount needed, especially if the cell spacing optimized it. I'd think the abrasiveness would be negated, especially once it tampers itself into place it should reinforce the pack structure? This should provide more uniform balanced cell thermals, I cant find mind information on anyone having tested or tried it. Also has the added benefit of being a flame retardant. In my mind the cell spacers could be designed in such a way as to allow channels to form between 21700 cells which are filled with silicon carbide, the silicon carbide would transfer heat through the pack like heatpipes on a PC CPU.
 
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Is there a reason we couldnt use something like fine silicon carbide powder? For the weight gained and amount needed, especially if the cell spacing optimized it. I'd think the abrasiveness would be negated, especially once it tampers itself into place it should reinforce the pack structure? This should provide more uniform balanced cell thermals, I cant find mind information on anyone having tested or tried it. Also has the added benefit of being a flame retardant. In my mind the cell spacers could be designed in such a way as to allow channels to form between 21700 cells which are filled with silicon carbide, the silicon carbide would transfer heat through the pack like heatpipes on a PC CPU.
Very poor contact resistance.

However, silicon carbide does have high thermal conductivity, so combined with a PCM, that could work.
 
10 Thermal runaway mitigation (& 2 Interconnects). Maybe build batteries as 4 x 10S1P instead of 10S4P, so that in the event of a fault in a single cell there's only 1P of energy to dump as heat instead of 4P. Details here:
 
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10 (& 2). Maybe build batteries as 4 x 10S1P instead of 10S4P, so that in the event of a fault in a single cell there's only 1P of energy to dump as heat instead of 4P. Details here:
Wow, not a bad idea at all. Build a per-module system.
 
10 (& 6 Phase Change Materials). Inspiration and a development challenge here. Battery cells are held in an open cell rigid foam permeated with wax. When a cell goes into TR heat is dumped by the wax vapourising and the foam draws in surrounding melted wax, a bit like a heat pipe.
 
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5 Thermal dissipation enhancements. Taking this to include +ve and -ve because with Euro size motors and batteries of 400Wh to 1kWh keeping them warm enough is a common problem.

Both JLCPCB and PCBway now supply flexible heating elements to custom shape and size, which should be easier to use. Blanket heating wires might work, heated grip pads not so much, underfloor heating elements seemed like a non-starter.
 
5 Thermal dissipation enhancements. Taking this to include +ve and -ve because with Euro size motors and batteries of 400Wh to 1kWh keeping them warm enough is a common problem.

Both JLCPCB and PCBway now supply flexible heating elements to custom shape and size, which should be easier to use. Blanket heating wires might work, heated grip pads not so much, underfloor heating elements seemed like a non-starter.
I did not need to know that lmao. My wallet really won't be happy xD.
 
re: the first post

I've been telling people this for ages.
Other factors why you want to overbuild:
- internal resistance will increase with cycles and calendar years, you want some overhead to account for that
- at 0c or freezing, you can expect most cells to have 3x the higher IR
- maximum discharge current ratings for a cell is based on the thermals of a single cell in a steady ambient temperature; this is not applicable at all to the case where you have a bunch of cells next together sealed in a plastic case. Take the cell's rating for continuous discharge and cut it in half and you should approximately have enough safety room, temperature wise, running at that 1/2 maximum C rating

My ideal is to overspec the output by 4x.. this is how you get a pack that runs cool with low voltage drop that also lasts a long time... and for most of it's life, it will perform very well
 
This topic is very interesting to me.

I have made 4 batteries for electric skateboards so far, which need to Flex, and deal with vibrations and shock loads probably to a higher degree than any other application, as far as I know.

The enclosure is tightly sealed, and only inches away from the searingly hot blacktop surface here in Florida.

My First Esk8 battery build, I didn't want to use expensive cells, and my 24 battery AMP ESC stated to use a battery with no less than a 30 amp rating.

I built a 10s2P using DMEGC 26E cells I got for 2$ each, which have a 15 amp rating. A poor cell choice in retrospect.
I used 0.1mm copper under 0.1mm nickel plated steel series and parallel interconnects, and made it inflexible, with 0.5mm G10 sheets adhered top and bottom and a stiff fiberglass enclosure with enough room for foam above and below, so that skateboard and enclosure could flex around the inflexible battery.

This worked well, for about 2,000 miles, when I noticed the enclosure was getting quite warm where the battery was.
I removed the enclosure quickly after a fast and hard roll, and found temps over 60C on parts of the battery, with an IR gun on the shrinkwrap, so the interior was definitely hotter and over the max temp rating of the cell, 60C

I tried slowing down and taking it easier on the battery but 55C+ was still way too easy to achieve on a hot day.

I became a bit obsessed with temperature and had K-type thermocouples adhered to the various hot spots on the battery exterior that I found with my IR temp gun and was monitoring while riding, and after, and also while charging.
I was also measuring exterior enclosure temps near and far from the battery, and just came to the conclusion that while its capacity still seemed to be more than adequate for my needs, it was just getting too hot, too easily, and the DMEGC cells were a poor choice.

At that time, I had recently finished a 10S1P P42A flexible battery for a different skateboard that was not yet ready to accept it, and swapped that P42A battery into the 10s2p enclosure. I lost some range, but was amazed at how much more torque was available. I was still able to get this P42A battery to 55C riding pretty hard, but at least these cells are rated to 80C and not 60C like the DMEGC's were.

I played with different density foam padding above and below, and found that the harder foams were able to transfer more heat to the enclosure, but was and am unsure how much of a difference it made to battery temperature overall, there was definitely the enclosure as a heatsink effect going on.

The P42A 10S1P battery unfortunately got submerged in the bay, and I injured my shoulder trying to prevent that occurrence.

This ended experiments and data collection, and months later when I rebuilt the skateboard with available parts, I returned the DMEGC-26E 10s2p battery to the enclosure. It was wintertime and exceeding 60C with it was much more difficult, but by no means impossible, and I put several hundred more miles on it.

As soon as I could afford it I built a 10s2P BAK45D with 0.1mm copper under 0.1 Nickel plated steel and pushing the battery as hard as I could until the ESC shut off the maximum temp I saw was 44C. I can still see how the enclosure gets hotter right near the BAK45D battery than away from it, but not to nearly the same degree it did with the DMEGC-26E.

I then became far less concerned about battery temperature, but the next battery build, a flexible 10s1P EVE 40PL, I decided to fill the dead air spaces in between the Fishpapered cells with Silicone, as even though it is not a great thermal conductor, it is better than dead air space.

I made the 10s1P EVE40PL with 0.2mm copper under 0.1mm stainless steel, and have not yet bothered to take its temperature, as I have not yet pushed the battery very hard, and it is wintertime, but the available torque of this very small lightweight kicktail Esk8, leads me to believe it has very little sag. I don't ride it on the most torquey setting as it feels like an unintentional torque wheelie puts my damaged shoulder in danger of redislocation.

The ESC's on either of my skateboards says it can only draw 24 battery amps maximum, so I am not approaching the limits of either BAK45D in 10s2P or EVE 40PL in 10S1P, and am no longer worried about excessive battery heating in use.

I do however still think about how the fiberglass enclosures themselves do, to some degree, sink some heat from the battery and how this thermal transfer can be improved.
The batteries are nestled in foam mainly for shock and vibration reasons, and when one hears foam, they think insulation, but foam is a better thermal conductor than dead air space.

It would be nice to fill the gaps between cells with a highly thermally conductive, but Dielectric substance, and have a highly thermally conductive foam to sink heat away from the batteries to the enclosure and skateboard deck, but I have not pursued optimization.

Tabless cells themselves and their lower IR, seemed to have solved my battery overtemperature issues, but that does not mean that they could not benefit from better thermal transfer to the enclosure, and the air flowing around it at speed, and I do aim fans to flow over enclosure when charging too.

I am excited to make new batteries with the 5.0AH supercells like 50PL, 50XG, JP50p1, RS50, but My BAK45D is still performing well, beyond expectation with about 2K miles on it, and the EVE 40PL 10s1P has less than 2 dozen cycles on it so far. If I need more range, I have portable charging sources I can take with me.
 
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