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DIY High Power Battery Pack Stress Testing

Nix Liou

Regular
Joined
Dec 4, 2024
Messages
270
Location
California
The premise:
I build custom battery packs, and recently I've been venturing into high discharge packs, small and big.
I have a 300w Atorch discharge tester, which I usually use to validate capacity of packs. I could combine it up to 600w, but I am building packs rated for upwards of 10kw CDR, and I need to be able to stress test and validate these custom designs for thermals, as that is the limiting factor usually.

The problem:
I haven't done super in depth research but I have looked into some ceramic load resistors, but at this level of power they are all hundreds of dollars, even if I trust the sparse spec sheets. I would like this system to be modular or scalable to allow me to test systems at 400A continuous. One battery I am currently building is capable of ~35kw CDR, theoretically. If I purchased ceramic load resistors capable of 40kw that would cost me ~$1000.

My solution:
I have come up with an alternative method, and I would like to hear some constructive criticism because frankly it is a somewhat dubious concept.

I have access to silicon carbide kiln shelving, and high refractory firebricks from several kilns. I also have a spool of 100ft of 22awg Nichrome A wire.

I found a data table online that gives a steady-state temperature of ~900°C for 22awg wire running 10A through it.

The concept is effectively a switch box with a number of nichrome resistive loops connected in parallel. This would allow me to step the resistance of the loop as the voltage drops, giving an approximately continuous discharge rate (importantly, I do not need to know the capacity, just the thermal situation, so approximately continuous is acceptable).

Each nichrome loop would be loosely coiled around a fire brick or similar, probably with a blower fan over them.

For a first test, I want to configure this tester to do a continuous discharge between 50-60A from a 72v nominal battery. My calculations give a total of 8 nichrome strands of 8.4 feet long (1ohm/ft at 22awg), starting with 6 in parallel at full charge, and ending with 8 in parallel by 3.15V.

I haven't made Nichrome heating elements before, but my preliminary concept is to try using these ceramic wire nuts to attach the nichrome, the light switches to allow toggling (theoretically each would only be under 10A, and a standard circuit is 15A).
I got these multi block connectors to help configure this, but I may switch to proper crimped bullet connectors everywhere that's relevant. Each heating element would be wrapped around a brick, resting on a silicon carbide kiln shelf.
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Safety:
I will be doing this outside, away from any dry grass or similar, and I will wet the ground nearby.
I have a full and certified CO2 fire extinguisher, and a hose will be at hand.
I will only be connecting fully discharge protected completed battery packs using a smart BMS, allowing me to concurrently monitor internal and external temps, discharge current, cell balance, etc. I will be able to cut off the discharge immediately via a physical switch, or the mosfet controls for the BMS, in case of any issues.
I will be using an IR thermometer to check interconnect and wire temperatures periodically, and I am aware of both the risk of burns and the risk of shocks at ~80V.
I have a welding apron, and a full face respirator, but I probably will forgo the respirator for safety glasses. I have some metal tongs and insulated gloves should I need to poke anything hot.


Am I missing anything? I think I've thought of most of the concerns, but I haven't done this kind of thing before. I would love to get feedback on if this idea seems viable, or too sketchy.

I will update this post with images as I assemble things and figure out the exact test setup.

P.S This is my first post here, go easy on me admins 😅
 

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Why not a bunch of common off the shelf water heater elements in a heat resistant tub of water?

The water will boil eventually, dissipating a massive amount of heat(energy)
Two main reasons:
1. looking at pricing and options for resistance, it ends up costing quite a lot, as the cheapest options are 1.5kw at 120v usually, of which for even 10kw at 72v I would need something like a dozen. I am considering setting up the nichrome wire in the water directly, if I do go with a water based setup.
2. 10kw equates to about 275g of water being boiled every minute, which is frankly a lot of steam. Considering that heat radiation at a steady state temp of 900°C is pretty rapid and nichrome can handle that, and I have a substrate capable of holding it at that temperature...
 
I'm also considering using eyebolts and a wood frame to support each of the nichrome wires. I'm worried about the wood getting scorched if I'm not careful, and it would be extra work to set up. However, it might be more stable and easier to keep cool.
 
Have you looked for used brake resistors?

In the company I work we had switchable resistor loads with 5kW, 10kW, 20kW and 150kW. They were all thrown away when the electronic guys changed to electronic loads.

I dismanteld one of them and now have a lot of 1,2Ohm resistors at home, which I serial and parallel as I need them.
Mine are looking like the ones on the picture below.

Screenshot_20251106_072531_eBay.jpg
 
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I've seen people use synchronous inverters made for solar systems and pump the power back into the grid. Much less heat to deal with. You could charge one pack while discharging another one and be almost net zero.
 
If you haven't checked out Will Prowse he's mostly into solar but has made some nice load testing equipment for all the battery testing he does. You might pick up a few good ideas there. He made a video about the upgrade in his load testing equipment but I can't seem to put my finger on it.

 
I've seen people use synchronous inverters made for solar systems and pump the power back into the grid. Much less heat to deal with. You could charge one pack while discharging another one and be almost net zero.
That's their plan in the long term, as I suggested in another place.
 
I've seen people use synchronous inverters made for solar systems and pump the power back into the grid. Much less heat to deal with. You could charge one pack while discharging another one and be almost net zero.
An inverter is ideal, but also quite expensive. Potentially an upgrade for more consistent testing, but it's difficult to justify right now...
 
If you already have the nichrome wire, then it makes sense to try that.
One thing to keep in mind is the nichrome will expand a LOT when it gets hot, so the wires will sag. It's helpful to have some way to prevent the wires from touching anything when they expand.
 
If you already have the nichrome wire, then it makes sense to try that.
One thing to keep in mind is the nichrome will expand a LOT when it gets hot, so the wires will sag. It's helpful to have some way to prevent the wires from touching anything when they expand.
Yeah, I have enough kiln shelving to to prevent it from touch anything important besides itself at least. I'll test it and see.

That's probably another point for using a wood frame and steel eyebolts for holding it, less freedom for it maybe.

I'll test it with a single element and see.
 
Alright, I have a new plan. I have talked to a supplier about custom water heating elements for 72v nominal (vs the usual 120 or 240) and excluding shipping and import into the us i can get an 3kw heater made of 3 1kw elements for ~$10 bucks if I buy 20 of them.

I was being a bit goofy when considering the water cooling situation- A tank like below would easily hold 80 gallons of water, and basically any pack I would be building by hand would not have enough energy to bring all that water to a boil.

If i spent 150 on this tank, 350 on heating elements, and then whatever shipping will cost for the elements, I'll have a discharge tester able to easily do 1000A discharge testing for probably about $650. And the main work for me would be drilling the holes to install the flanges.


Screenshot_20251114-114033.png
 
Old hot water heaters thrown out are free . 80 gallon is a common size.

Another idea is an old bath tub, don't have to worry about insulating the heater elements.
Yeah, but then I'd need to put them into a curved surface and make sure that still seals. For a bathtub or similar, I'd have to figure out the best setup for mounting it as well. I could mount them in a 2x4 or smth just above the water level, but I figured it would be easiest to simply drill appropriately sized holes in the flat side of a tank like what I showed, and simply screw them in.

The heating elements are electrically insulated from the mounting threads, for these heating elements, they are meant to screw into holes in a metal walled tank, and have a nut and o-ring on the inside.

Also it will be left outside, so might as well go with something sturdy, galvanized, etc. Maybe I can find a used one cheaper in good condition, though.
 
The heating elements are electrically insulated from the mounting threads, for these heating elements, they are meant to screw into holes in a metal walled tank, and have a nut and o-ring on the inside.
That's how water heater elements are typically designed as well. They don't require a curved surface; they just stick straight out into the water from the mounting hole they thread into in the side of the heater cylinder. This one is a 120v 2kw element for $19; at 72v it should be 1.2kw (aobut 16A), which isn't enough, but...
1763169645055.png

And you can already buy 72v elements; this random google hit from the top of the search list is really expensive for a 1kw unit at $69 but I'm sure there are cheaper ones
1763169493283.png
This page on aliexpress has many voltages; they look the same as the one above

Etc.
 
The heating elements are electrically insulated from the mounting threads, for these heating elements, they are meant to screw into holes in a metal walled tank, and have a nut and o-ring on the inside.
If electrically insulated just let them sit on the bottom of the bath tub. No need to mount them. Just need to make the wires longer.
 
Perhaps I could just get a couple 50gal plastic barrels
That's how water heater elements are typically designed as well. They don't require a curved surface; they just stick straight out into the water from the mounting hole they thread into in the side of the heater cylinder. This one is a 120v 2kw element for $19; at 72v it should be 1.2kw (aobut 16A), which isn't enough, but...
View attachment 380560

And you can already buy 72v elements; this random google hit from the top of the search list is really expensive for a 1kw unit at $69 but I'm sure there are cheaper ones
View attachment 380559
This page on aliexpress has many voltages; they look the same as the one above

Etc.
Yeah, the price is just not feasible, with the goal of 100kw of discharge. Talking with a supplier I can get combined units with 3 1kw elements at 72v, for $10 each EXW, if I'm buying 35 of em. They look like that first one, except wider, and with 3 nested loops.
 
As long as they are a plastic capable of the temperature the water is expected to reach. Some really common container plastics begin to shrink or deform around 130-150F, which is not very hot.
Most plastic water barrels are HDPE, which should handle boiling temp okay. I would prefer metal though.
 
Got a better quote for sea freight, and all in I can get each 3x1kw unit for $14 with moq of 35:1000011908.png

I'll probably place the order in a few days. 55 gallon HDPE water barrels seem fairly available and common, just scanning around FBM. I'll see if I can pick up a couple for this project.
 
Just in case you're still looking for ideas; salt water load bank. I unloaded a few Zero battery packs using this method. You'd be surprised how little graphite needs to be submerged to get really high amperage draws.

Use graphite rods though, they don't dissolve.
 
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