E-max 110s lifepo4 upgrade

Mine's through Rampdale, around £120.
 
Can anyone tell me how the headlight system is powered on the e-max?

I wanted to try some LED H3 bulbs for the headlights but they seem to operate on some sort of AC , my meter only reads 2.7V across the main bulb in both AC and DC modes, there is also a buzzing sound when they are on.

The brake light is now permanently on, I can't figure out why, brake switches work fine..
 
I'm no help on the lights flexy but I have news on my emax. So I managed to get out one of the four 12v 68ahr greensaver batteries. My volt meter only measures 3volts. I've tried to charge one on a tp1430c thunder power charger. But it thinks that because of the low voltage it sees the battery as a 6v but even if you try to charger on that voltage it gives up after a couple of mins at 13.8v at 0.2amps. A friend has recommended using a dump car charger first to get up to a reasonable voltage. Any ideas?
 
If an SLA has dropped to 3V I doubt you'll revive it I'd start building a lithium pack :p
 
I'm sure you are right flexy but I'm gonna give it ago anyway just cause I have a dcdc that I can tune down to .2amps and I'll run it detached from a big car sla with some solar trickle cells at the end of my garden. Will be an interesting experiment. Do you have the details of where you got your a123s?
 
Mine were from the dodgy Victpower. There are other sources now but probably more expensive, you might also want to look at Nissan leaf cells.
 
I was thinking of going for a Prius nimh pack maybe. Or Honda hybrid cells. Where can you buy leaf cells?
 
My original battery on emax 120L is failing, now allowing only 20 km range although it has 52 ah.
I made just 15000 km, in 25 km "chunks", so probably I have just one cell dead.
Is there any tech doc available about original 50 Ah battery? Number and type of cells used, wiring,...?
I've been asked 5000$ by vendor for full battery replacement, which is just insane...
 
That is expensive, you could build or buy one for much less, is yours 60V lithium?
 
managed to fix my charger for the emax, the green on led had become detached, so was a 5pence fix. anyway another thing I noticed was the brake light is always on, is this normal, has anyone got a picture or diagram of the msu and its wires connected. I have a few wires on mine missing so this could be the cause.

thanks chaps
 
I had the same problem with mine. It seems the MSU has switched it on permanently. There could be a relay in there that's seized but I think they might be mosfet controlled, my MSU is potted in epoxy so no way of fixing it . I ended up rewiring the brake light so the always on brake powered the rear light and the brake light was turned on by a separate relay from the brake switches.
 
flexy said:
Mine has the black epoxy so I can't do those modifications you show.
Click to expand...
Hey flexy/yokean I mended my black epoxied Msu board and although you can't really get to the top side I think yokean's mods are all the the underneath which I've learnt from taking mine apart are not covered in black potting. So looks like upgrade to more volts and a drop down 12v converter is possible too. :)
 
jumpjack said:
It's 48V/52Ah
Click to expand...

Hello, I have the same problem on my 120L. At 17000 km I had 10 cells dead. In fact all the pack has 18650 cells (14S and 26 paralel). I can't find the brand. I repared the pack with 26 sony cells and since then I made almoust 3000 km with no problem. Now my 120L is on 15S (55,5V nominal and 62V full charge). I have better acceleration, I can realy feel the 80Km/ limit. I think I'll change the whole pack this winter. 55,5V 130Ah. I need 150 km range (the beach is at 70Km and there is no charge station in my way).
I'll keep you informed
 
hey flexy, completed the London Brighton bike ride with my missus. should have tried to meet up to talk Emaxes. to be honest was a bit tired and due to the traffic on the m25 after didn't get home till the early hours next day (Manchester). anyway some money raised for hearts and such. hopefully next time I'm due to be in Brighton ill remember to PM you in advance.
 
Flexy my E-max 110s is now on the road at 16s, did you get your E-max back on the road? If not are you using the Sabvoton. Think I will only go to 24s in total so would be exactly similar voltages to what you had. I am planning on building a lebowski controller but that will take me some time, in the meanwhile it might be good to have a known working 24s solution.
 
whereswally606 said:
flexy said:
Mine has the black epoxy so I can't do those modifications you show.
Click to expand...
Hey flexy/yokean I mended my black epoxied Msu board and although you can't really get to the top side I think yokean's mods are all the the underneath which I've learnt from taking mine apart are not covered in black potting. So looks like upgrade to more volts and a drop down 12v converter is possible too. :)
Click to expand...

Edit, just want to confirm this works.
Under the prinntboard there is no black gue..
And i simplified it a bit. I did not remove Q3 and i did not remove the relay, still works great on 12V only.

The only question i have is, what pins are for the key? To turn the power on.
 
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