E-Recumbent Bike

[hulk]

Hello, I would like to know what is the best bang for the buck for an electric system for a recumbent bike.

Here is the bike I am thinking about buying and making electric:
20" Hyper Insight Fitness Bike

Edit: It seems that when I post a direct link to the bike Walmart does not show it.

So here is the link to google, just click on the first link that has Walmart in it:
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=20%22+Hyper+Insight+Fitness+Bike&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=20%22+Hyper+Insight+Fitness+Bike&fp=Q5rYJf3FIq4


I was told that an ecospeed would work but it is way out of my budget. The Crystalyte kit looks pretty good, but which options should I go with?

 

[spinningmagnets]

 

[WonderProfessor]

Has anyone actually ridden one of these things? I have no experience whatsoever with Wal*mart and probably never will in my lifetime. However, if this is a decently built machine, then it definitely marks a brand new price point for recumbents. My guess is that it is not that well built. It is probably very heavy. (The packed weight is close to 60 pounds.) The parts are probably low end. But it does look comfortable and that's why we ride recumbents, right?

Would love to hear from someone who owns one.

WonderProfessor
51,000 miles on my 1994 Gold Rush recumbent

P.S. I'm going through the same research process regarding what's the best way to go about electrifying a recumbent. I gave up the idea of electrifying my Gold Rush, at least for now. I just bought a used EZ-1 (the grandson of the Gold Rush) that will be my electric 'bent. I am debating over and over what will be the perfect combination. I'm pretty much sold on a ping battery -- probably a 48 volt with either 15 amp-hours or 20 amp-hours. There are many types of motors -- some sound very good (eZee, Nine Continents, SpokeMonkey, ecospeed), some sound abysmal (Golden Motors, Crystalyte), and some sound average (Aotema). Once my Adventure-in-Electrifying-A-'Bent goes into full gear, it will be chronicled here.

 

[hulk]

In the Walmart ad it says that bike is brand new. I googled that bike but the only links I got were to the Walmart store and to a blog where a guy writes basically what the product description is!

 

[csmarr]

The bike is a near clone of the Sun EZ Rider AX MSRP $1495. There is a rather rambling discussion going on over at the Bentrider Online forum[http://www.bentrideronline.com/mes...ystalyte 405 I think it would be a nice ride.

 

[davespicer]

Well, I just ordered one, to be shipped to the local SWM. Arrival time June 1 - June 5. Expect I'll put the eZip Trailz on the local Craigslist. I'll report in with my experiences/impressions, but they'll be less than encyclopedic:

- I don't have a job to bike-commute to;
- local conditions (Asheville NC) aren't super-hilly, super-hot or super-wet;
- I'm a greying boomer (61) trying to get back in some semblance of shape (I can't consider muffin-top a valid shape);
- my riding is generally short, local stuff or rail trails/greenways in nearby areas; and finally
- I don't expect to have the wherewithal to electrify this thing anytime soon.

At least I ought to be able to give riding impressions and get some closeup photos of the front and rear dropouts. At 6'1" and 215+ we'll see how well I fit on it too. Wish me luck

 

[rektide]

I plan on doing an e-tadpole after I proof out a bmx e-bike.

 

[TylerDurden]

Funky... not totally bad. here's a screengrab:

 

[csmarr]

I have had the itch to make a new bike since last fall. I went to a local shop and test rode a Cattrike recumbent tadpole. They are REALLY nice! That is what I would like to motorize but this bike will get rid of the itch for over a thousand dollars less. Delivery is June 3 to 9.

 

[csmarr]

The Wal-Mart website has listed this bike as "Out of Stock Online". I am still waiting for delivery of the one I ordered.

 

[dogman dan]

My bent experience is limited to a ride around the block on one. I got the impression that a lot less weight was on the front wheel, so I would guess that a rear motor is the best way to go. I also consider ebikes-ca the best source for rear wheel setups since some others have had some issues with the dishing. I would be leaning towards the clyte stuff so that the winding count of the motor would better match the size of the wheel. Maybe not the cheapest way to go, but pretty close to the best bang for the buck. Battery choices are too many nowdays, but if the rides were under 10 miles the ebikes-ca 8ah nicads still work great to me. (actually they can go much farther if you ride slower) For longer range, the lighter weight of lifepo4 maket it the option of choice.

On the bike itself, I find that even cheap bikes have pretty decent frames. The tinfoil front cranks wear out overnight on some bikes, so you might need to hunt some at the flea market for a quality set of cranks to put on the bike. Nothing really wrong with the bottom bracket and heatsets if you just make sure they are lubed and kept tight. Even the really cheap derailurs seem to work fine if adjusted right. The most expensive bike in the world will fall apart if ridden with something loose or out of whack. So will the cheap bike. Most of the cheap bike bad reputation is owners who have no idea how to tune a bike. They sure don't go out the door of wallmart in tune.

 

[davespicer]

The Wal-Mart website has listed this bike as "Out of Stock Online". I am still waiting for delivery of the one I ordered.

And you can't get to it from the website menu either - the Google link at the first post shows an item number and its page is still there, but navigating to "Cruisers & Comfort Bikes" doesn't list it. Maybe Wal-Mart just ordered one batch to put 'em out there and see what happens...

Mine shows as being on its way to the store. Shouldn't be long before I can start posting some impressions.

 

[torker]

Wow that is a Sun EZ-Rider knockoff alright. I have an EZ. It almost got electrified yesterday but I would have had to spread the forks too much, so my toureasy clone is the donor. The bike is heavy though. Mine is cromo and is 50 lbs. I think I have a pic on my photobucket page linked here. It fits my 6 foot frame fine. Not sure how much taller would fit though. I really want to emotor it but it will have to be a rear or a narrow front hub or a non hub. Good luck on the project..

 

[davespicer]

...it's still in the box and I'm going to take my time assembling it so that I do it right. I'll take pics as appropriate and post 'em here (and also at the BentRider Online thread - I'm AshevilleFusion over there).

 

[davespicer]

All that needs attaching are the front wheel/tire, handlebars, seat and seatback, and pedals.

The front tire is an 18x1.75, the rear a 20x1.75. Inflation spec'd at 43psi for both. Maximum rider weight is 275 pounds. The seat itself looks like a standard comfort-bike saddle; the separate seatback is a nice-looking mesh.

I've taken some photos and will attach them to a post a little later. Looks good to me so far FWIW.

 

[davespicer]

Here are a number of pics which will give folks some idea of what this thing is like until a better photographer posts pics of theirs :?

View attachment 8











View attachment 2





I've ridden the Insight maybe four miles so far, without adjusting the shifters first (which turned out to be a mistake). It'd be easiest to just list impressions:

- pretty comfortable to sit on/in
- a good bit heavier than my Fusion (a 2006 steel-frame model)
- rear dropouts are this big, thick plate; looks like plenty of room for torque arms
- some vibration from the idler under load
- very low gearing - I easily spun up in top gear on the level, and I'm an out-of-shape 61-year-old
- steering touchy but not spooky
- brakes adequate but need upgrading IMO
- shifting was the weakest point - it was hit-or-miss and I'm hoping adjusting will help.

My (very early) sense is that I'd be most at ease with this on a dedicated bike path. My other nonpowered bike (the Fusion) is a lot faster than this seems to be, and I'd feel more confident on it for road use. Add a motor and that could change, although the gearing would certainly need to be altered then.

Okay, that's a start. I look forward to other folks' reviews/impressions/photos which do a more thorough (and more viewable?) job

 

[spinningmagnets]

Thanks for posting this info! I believe that the market for E-bikes for the graying population has just scratched the surface. I live in a retirement town (St George, SW Utah) and there are many walking/biking paths. I see many retirees every morning and evening (weather very warm here, like Las Vegas) walking their small dogs and riding bikes to try and stay in shape.

Large diameter wheels are very valuable for off-road riding. They aren't a problem for smooth roads, but small wheels are definitely an option on smooth roads. I just converted my MTB to beach-cruiser seating, which is much more comfortable for me. Everyone I've met that tried a recumbent has liked it a lot, but the over-$1,000 price was usually a non-starter.

Nobody is asking me, but if I was putting this together I'd do it just like this with just a few minor changes.

Disc brake frame lugs front and back, couldn't cost more than $20 on the assembly line. This would allow the owner to upgrade by just buying the caliper, disc wheel, (plus minor odds and ends)...no welding needed. I found the thing I like most about my front disc is that the front wheel pops off and on easily when stowing for travel. For front wheel removal on V-brakes (my wifes bike), I have to deflate/inflate tire, or wrench on the brake pads.



Bikes like this don't have a lot of weight on the front, so it would not weaken the frame to shorten the bottom of the steering head-tube to allow a 20" tire on the front. The 18" tire is odd and totally unnecessary. This frame immediately has many options "just as it is" for a rear hubmotor or a "non-hub" drive.

I also like how the long seat-mounting tube already makes a ready support for home-made saddle-bags...
Remember the Schwinn Stingray "springer" front suspension? If your bike had the common sized head-tube, it was a "drop in" upgrade...

'Close' only counts in shaving and nuclear weapons -Admiral Rickover

 

[qepasa]

http://members.chello.pl/b.czyz/rower/rowerek.html

that was my recumbent. i spend two wonderfull seasons on it, riding around city and country and sometimes easy forest. i sold it already, i am making full suspension MTB electric.

things i would change in that recumbent:
-position of a ride.
Driver should be more like this | and not like that ---- so something like \ is ideal. To do that i advice smaller front wheel. Brakes must be in perfect condition always, especially rear. In that bike i lack that, some times path of braking is too long, and it can scare me. The main problem with recumbent is that you cannot move your body to front or rear to balance the pressure of wheels on path. If you drive MTB bike and when you brake you wish you move rear. While you are going up you want your body move front for more steering control over front wheel. On recumbent you set your bike once. Only once you must precise if you want rear or front more. Personally i prefer front.

To end that stupid speach i would choose bike that have:
- more vertical position of ride then mine, try getting front wheel a litle smaller 24" 20" and rear 26" to do that.
- check braking system and mountings of V brakes or disc brakes. It must be perfect specially on rear.
- try to figure out where you will put that 48V10AH headway pack ^-^ (ask Victoria in advance to have it splitted in two "lego" packs. (keep it low for more left/right balance, and keep it midle for front wheel presure to ground). If it is on the side protect it against crash.
- if you can get strong steel front fork with suspension, with V-brakes, and with ability to somehow attach Torque arm then get front hub. if not get rear hub.
http://www.ebrforks.com/eng/ - forks from italy, when i look at them i see just steel pressed forks. i know Suntour make steel froks as well with dropouts beeing welded to fork. No idea which one is stronger, but if you take that Suntour with that plate dropout that is welded, it is thinner so you got more space to attach torque arm.
- last one... get arm protection if you crash you go on side on your arm. Elbow must be protected ALWAYS. Even if you go only to buy bread from shop on corner, dont ask why i know that.

PS. sorry for my pathetic english. please don't make fun

 

[spinningmagnets]

"...sorry for my pathetic english. please don't make fun"

"Twój angielski jest lepszy niż mój polski!" You speak "bicycle" my friend! that is the international language.

 

[BothellBob]

I think I got good bang for the buck with a Wilderness Energy front hub on my RANS Stratus; but that was a lowbudget motor on a high budget bike. Looking at the pictures, I do not see a way to mount batteries low; bents are twitchy enough without a high center of gravity.
-BothellBob

 

[gerhardt]

This is a reply to WonderProfessor. You mentioned that the Crystalyte hub motor is abysmal. Why do you say this? My experience is the opposite. I operate a 2 speed 404/407 Crystalyte hub motor in a 20 inch wheel at 72 volts on my Cycle Genius long wheel base recumbent and my delta trike. I can operate at 35 mph and carry 100 pounds of groceries. Photos are posted on the Yahoo Power Assist web site under Gerhardt E-Bike.
Don Gerhardt

 

[WonderProfessor]

This is a reply to WonderProfessor. You mentioned that the Crystalyte hub motor is abysmal. Why do you say this? My experience is the opposite. I operate a 2 speed 404/407 Crystalyte hub motor in a 20 inch wheel at 72 volts on my Cycle Genius long wheel base recumbent and my delta trike. I can operate at 35 mph and carry 100 pounds of groceries. Photos are posted on the Yahoo Power Assist web site under Gerhardt E-Bike.
Don Gerhardt

My apologies. There was no intent to injure or demean other person's choices. I was just basing my opinion on what I have gleaned on Internet forums and vendor web sites and the experiences of local San Diegan's at our Electric Vehicle Association monthly meetings. The leader of our happy little group sited numerous Crystalyte motors that simply were not able to hold up to prolonged use, especially for those who lived closer to the beach. (Note: We are much more fortunate than many other ocean cities with regard to salty air. However, it is still an issue.) The coup de grace came from a well-respected vendor's web site and his experiences with Crystalyte motors: http://www.ebikes.ca/troubleshooting.shtml

Also, one of my personal quirks is what some might call an over-emphasis on reliability. Personally, I believe you just can not over-emphasize reliability too much. This is especially true for those of us who use our bicycles for transportation to and from work and are complete nincompoops when it comes to being handy and fixing things. I'm barely able to fix a flat tire, let alone monkey around with the mechanical components.

Having said that, there seem to be many individuals who are happy enough with their Crystalyte motors and don't need to spend the extra dollars for something that should be more reliable over time. Of course, in the end, entropy claims everything, including us.

 

[gerhardt]

Thanks to WonderProfessor for the reply on Crystalyte motors and the link at http://www.ebikes.ca. I am also interested in high reliability, quality and durability. I am designing a safety delta trike to accept a through the gears electric motor. I would appreciate it if anyone on the forum could reommend an electric motor that can drive an 8 speed interal hub that would meet the following specifiactions:
1. 50,000 mile and 10 year life without maintenance
2. 1600 watt peak power to maintain 35 mph on level road and 20 mph on 10% grade
3. Less than $100.00 OEM cost in quantity

I tend to prefer higher voltage to keep the current and weight low. I have considered redesigning a hub motor to meet the requirements.
Thanks
Don Gerhardt

 

[davespicer]

Of course, in the end, entropy claims everything, including us.

http://www.lyricsfreak.com/p/paul+simon/everything+put+together+falls+apart_20105906.html

Um, cheers, I guess...

- Dave :?

 

[davespicer]

Turned out that, on mine anyway, the factory had used brake cable housing on the shifter cables - note the ribbed look of the cable going to the rear derailleur in the photos I posted above. From what I hear, that messes up the shifting royally - others could explain better I'm sure. Right now the bike is in the shop having the shifter cables and housings replaced. I'll report back with results.