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E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Kepler said:
My next job will be to fit a chain guide to make sure the chain no longer comes off
That would be tricky on a Fighter - there are no ISCG tabs and the Schlumpf BB needs to have a taper. Won't it interfere with the main frame anyway?

Phasor frame has the ISCG05 tabs so that make things a little easier. Unfortunately no one makes a 52t CG. Most of them range from 32t to 40t. It's not hard to fab yourself if you are handy with a jigsaw. Just get some upper and lower guide blocks or rollers

There's another solution which would prob work best for you guys - is to get a clutched rear derailleur. Like Shimano Shadow Plus or SRAM Type-2. You will need to space or change the pulleys to suit 7sp or 9sp drivetrain. I've got Shimano Zee about a month ago, still have not tried it though :oops:

Love the colour BTW 8)
What do you think of those cell PCBs? :wink:
 
full-throttle said:
What do you think of those cell PCBs? :wink:

Very effective and super-versatile ;)

Hey how's your 20C pack coming together? I'm still surprised at how small they are.
 
someday there will be a "HUNDRED" Phasor:

cost less than one hundred 100 dollars (10,000)
over 100 mile range
less than 100 pounds
OVER 100 MPH

THINK WE ARE GETTING CLOSE to that reality now except for speed because of the brute force to overcome wind but perhaps with a fairing?...the first 3 are attainable now I believe if you build yourself but even at 50 top speed and 100 mile range at lets say 20-25 and under 100 pounds that is pretty impressive epecially considering the superior suspension on this bike compared to most bikes..except the stealth of course I love their frames...the electronics are getting smaller and lighter and the batteries are getting lighter too!.....I talked to one shop that said they could do 93 pounds/50 mph/and 80 mile range at 25 mph for 11,000 including parts.labor,tax on a phasor frame...cannot wait to see what kinda speeds/ranges/weights you other phasor guys come up with!
 
Rodney64 said:
jonescg said:
full-throttle said:
What do you think of those cell PCBs? :wink:

Very effective and super-versatile ;)

Hey how's your 20C pack coming together? I'm still surprised at how small they are.

And also eliminates alot of wiring
Good to know 8)

Haven't used those 20C cells yet, but a 14s2p pack would fit nicely inside the main triangle of my frame and only 85mm wide. I build my packs a little different as you can see @2:28 in the video. Hope I'm not spamming :lol:
 
I'm guessing you won't be pulling hundreds of amps through those tabs then :) The 20C cells probably couldn't do that much anyway - maybe 10C? But yeah, paralleled at the cell level FTMFW!

Rodney - here is a US supplier of the stuff:
http://k-mac-plastics.net/g10-fr4-sheets.htm

Just looking at it, I reckon the 0.8 mm thick stuff (0.031 inch) would be what we are after. They sell them in 300 mm by 600 mm sheets and not too expensive either.

Don't know if there is an Australian stockist somewhere...
 
Phasor with a key



AB78AD39-0DA6-4AE1-ACEB-0DC13F9D0AE1-5254-00000BD9584AAB43.jpg
 
Looks like a bought one :D I'm glad you drilled that hole and not me :) The paint job was too nice.
 
korpin said:
hey rodney! noticed two front sprockets...you gonna have a way of switching between the two?

Korpin, I have decided to fit a front derailleur, I'm looking for a frame mounted one. Will need to make a modified bracket to fit though. The current chain line will need to move 7mms to the right. At the moment the chains only staying on the small sprocket. I have discussed it with a guy from work and we have a plan.
 
Hey Rod,
I wired up the main contactor and precharge relay, so it's ready to connect to the key switch and auxiliary battery. It's not as compact as I would like it to be, but it would probably fit OK. I figured the 860 ohm, 10 W resistor would be fine, and have the caps charged in no time. The problem is, I need to pot the whole lot in epoxy or something similar, since it's not exactly rugged.

I'm starting to wonder if a big kill switch and a momentary button for precharge would be a better way to go? Certainly more space efficient.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SF2245
 
Looks like you did a great job on the hole. I was wondering myself what it would take to put a CA in there.

Would love to see someone go first though. Sweet looking ride bud I am jealous.
 
was wondering if you are going to enclose the controller section or leave it open....the guys working on mine were indicating it needs to be outside frame for cooling but I am running close to 100 volts and perhaps my controller needs more cooling......
 
nice forks BTW marchozzi was my first choice but was swayed to go roxx shoxx boxxer woorld cup for a half pound weight savings and another pound on rear vivid shock...but having that spring on the foxx can be nice if you lose air in shock.....
 
Hello all, today we installed the battery, but unable to get it running with my controller of choice.


Pic after a hard day. 'A' Chris

7687FC6A-10EB-4FC7-8691-02508E3E5362-6525-00000D654B96DDD6.jpg


Small video

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg505/rodshaz/76187744-C465-4EA8-8984-7E3855CAA310-449-00000068CE5E3651.mp4



The final reward

01DDAE8C-A0A2-4CB8-831A-82E28F6C0738-6525-00000D6488EA7846.jpg



After alot of thought we decided to install an isolation switch with a 1000 ohm resister and precharge button.

05D12480-4D58-47E5-8FCC-95F197470454-6525-00000D65763072D5.jpg



Still a couple of things to do wire up the rear tail light and set up the cycle analyst. Some functions are working but with a negative value. This is my first cycle analyst and may need some help.



E50FBDD1-847E-40A7-A216-2BBF796DEEF3-6525-00000D657D12766F.jpg
 
Glad you could get it to turn a wheel mate. I'd say that Lyen controller isn't talking to the motor. At least it fits in there.

I hope you managed to get some foam down the sides of the battery pack.

Also, get yourself a velcro strap to hold the highest battery down firmly. You can wrap it around the frame for now, just as long as the cells can't jiggle around.

What kind of currents are you pulling from the battery? Anything getting hot? Is the cycle analyst saying the right things?
 
jonescg said:
Glad you could get it to turn a wheel mate. I'd say that Lyen controller isn't talking to the motor. At least it fits in there.

I hope you managed to get some foam down the sides of the battery pack.


Yes managed to get foam down one side, will start looking for thinner foam. Conveyor belt skirting maybe an option.
Also, get yourself a velcro strap to hold the highest battery down firmly. You can wrap it around the frame for now, just as long as the cells can't jiggle around.

I was thinking if I drilled a couple of holes for cable ties to go over the top of the battery, I will first try using the cover holes.
What kind of currents are you pulling from the battery? Anything getting hot? Is the cycle analyst saying the right things?

Max amps show 50 but I think I did a full reset. Yes went for a 6km ride and things got hot, controller warm to hot and the motor was hot but still touchable. That was we one 80km an hour burst. Current gearing i can pedal at 40. At least our 100 amp fuse survived.
 
Hmm, 50 A at 90 V is 4500 W, which is probably fairly close to the mark. The only way to really know is to hang a current clamp off one side while trying not to run into stuff :lol:

Cable ties might crush one of the balance taps if it's in the way. At east a velcro strap would do less damage. Will need some thought anyway. Was there enough room for a second strip of thinner foam?

And be careful when drilling into something with 1.3 kWh of LiPo behind it :D

Oh, don't forget to add the
jonescg said:
at the start of each sentence :) followed by a
;)
 
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