E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

[korpin]

Wow Rod, 2.5 Over drive. Thats just plain insane!! In a good way of course. A 30 tooth will become a 75 tooth. That motor wont out run your pedal cadence now.

Korpin, great pic at the trail head. Sure looks good in its intended environment.

Rick

Yes aiming for 50kms per hour. It's actually a 27 tooth front.

I HAVE A 30 up front which equates to 75 in high speed BUT remember I have a 9 cassette on rear (which I can only really use 5) so my smallest is an 11 I believe or perhaps 12....I point this out because 27 may not be enough for riders who have say,a 14 as the smallest rear if they intend to pedal at 45-50 MPH...if you are going 50 KPH then 27 up front 14 in back is probably fine for schlumph just my 2 cents to help other riders

 

[Rodney64]

Still that will be the equiv of a 68-69t chain ring. Should be more than big enough. Can't wait to hear about your ride report.

Rick

Just had my first ride with my new schlumph drive.

With the Cromotor the smallest chain ring for the rears 16 tooth and the largest for the front without hitting the frames 53 tooth. This combination with the 17 inch rims maximum speed was 30 Kms an hour.

Now with he new drive it cruises at 40 and tops out at 60kms an hour. Planning on commuting next week to work and looking forward to it.

Something to consider if anyone's planning on using a Cromotor with a Phasor frame you'll need one of these drives to get any type of speed peddling. They also sell 32 and 34T sprockets as well for this same drive.

Will post pics later.

 

[Rodney64]

New Schmulph drive which I'm very pleased with.

 

[pendragon8000]

Looking good Rod. Thanks for the update photo.
Are the mud guards new? I copped so much mud and water this winter and don't even ride in the rain. Just thinking about what I see on some bikes is a mini mud gard for the rear shock. Rix said something before about how important keeping shocks clean is. It could give it more longevity. And its obviously worth looking after. I use shock "socks" neoprene Velcro things by lizard skins on both my bikes , but I have gas no spring type.

What will your coworkers say about the awesome machine?

 

[dan974]

what size or wheel/rim/tyres did you choosed ? and the schmulf , did you buy it directly in swiss or did you find a cheaper way to get it ?

 

[Rix]

Very awesome Rod, really like the schlumpf drive on your machine. Let us know about the commute when you get a chance. Whats going on with your blue Phasor?

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Are the mud guards new? What will your coworkers say about the awesome machine?

Yes the mudguards are new. Yes everyones quite impressed with my bike at work especially the tradesmen who weld. The frame and how its been fabricated and welded together especially.

dan974:what size or wheel/rim/tyres did you choosed ? and the schmulf , did you buy it directly in swiss or did you find a cheaper way to get it ?

The wheels are 17 inch motor cycle rims and tyres. I purchaed the drive directly from schlumpf innovations. Approximatley 650 euro plus postage.

Ill purchese the 34 tooth sprocket and chain guard shortly. As Korpins said if you want to deddle at 80KMs an hour then you will need this with a 16T single freewheel. At the moment its good for commuting.

Rix:Very awesome Rod, really like the schlumpf drive on your machine. Let us know about the commute when you get a chance. Whats going on with your blue Phasor?

At the moment the blue Phasors sitting in the gararge until I can get time to look at it. It either has a damaged phase wire or blown controller. Life just getting back to normal at home after my oldest son spent 6 weeks in hospital wih pnumonia. May try the 18 fet on the white phasor and move the controller from the white phasor to the blue one. All depends on time and whats happening

 

[Rix]

Sorry to hear about your son's extended stay in the Hospital. Hope all is well. Yah, you got to keep the blue Phasor going. Are you running a 12Fet on that right now? With the past controller issues you've had, and the voltages you are running, maybe a 24fet would be best. Like I know crap about controllers . Glad the Schlumpf is working for you. Looks really neat on the white Phasor.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Yes it currently has a 12 fet. But I have 2 18 fet controllers one has 4115 fets and the other controller 4110. A good job for me on the weekend.

 

[Deutch420]

so I finally let someone other than myself ride my Phasor. I let him ride it in phase 1 power mode, which was about 3kw of power. He is about 70 years old so i was reluctant at first to let him try my bike. But after a couple hours of riding with him in the woods on semi difficult trails, i was very impressed with his skills as a rider. So I wasn't too worried when I let him try it. He is a ES forum member and has a few e-bikes himself. He had a camera as well so I have some footage of me hitting some jumps and trail bashing. However, his camera was mounted directly to the bike (hardtail) and the roots and bumps from the trail shake the camera pretty violently. I will try to cut and edit and post something decent .

on a side note, my cycle analyst has been acting weird. Whenever I am NOT in power my amp hours go backwards as if the regen was on (its not). For example, when I come to a red light and I'm sitting there, my amp hours will recharge .001 about every 5 seconds. Long story short, my amp hour consumption is completely incorrect as a result. I have used this cycle analyst with the same controller for over two thousand miles. So I'm fairly sure it's not the rShunt. Any suggestions?

 

[Rix]

Here is a pic of a Phasor running the 17x1.4 Prowheel Racing rim and a shinko SR241 3.00x17 on the rear, and the 19x1.4 Prowheel racing rim on the front running a shinko SR241 2.75x19 on the front. The owner, Mike, is obviously in the process of building the bike up and went with this combo. This is the direction I that I will be going with my Bomber. Anyway I believe this will prove to be the best tire combo for hub motor ebikes around. As in my past reviews, I have ran both these tires on the rear only of my Bomber with the stock setup on the front. That worked well and to date, no other tire, including the one I am currently running, has performed as well as these two tires in both on and off road conditions. I cross posted this on the Stealth Thread as well to show folks that ebikes with MC wheels and tires can still look like a pedal bike.

Rick

 

[QuestionMan]

Here is a pic of a Phasor running the 17x1.4 Prowheel Racing rim and a shinko SR241 3.00x17 on the rear, and the 19x1.4 Prowheel racing rim on the front running a shinko SR241 2.75x19 on the front. The owner, Mike, is obviously in the process of building the bike up and went with this combo. This is the direction I that I will be going with my Bomber. Anyway I believe this will prove to be the best tire combo for hub motor ebikes around. As in my past reviews, I have ran both these tires on the rear only of my Bomber with the stock setup on the front. That worked well and to date, no other tire, including the one I am currently running, has performed as well as these two tires in both on and off road conditions. I cross posted this on the Stealth Thread as well to show folks that ebikes with MC wheels and tires can still look like a pedal bike.

Rick

What is the recommended size wheels when going with a moto cross rims? I see Korpin has 19" both front and rear. Here I take it your saying the best tire combo is 19" on the front and 17" on the rear.

Since I have no idea how this all works, I would personally want to go with 19" front and 19" rear. But do you think 19" front and 17" rear would actually be better? why?

Rix, you mentioned that you heard an ebike company is going to put out ebike specific tires. Do you think these ebike specific tires will be better then the moto cross rims and shinko tires?

 

[Rix]

Here is a pic of a Phasor running the 17x1.4 Prowheel Racing rim and a shinko SR241 3.00x17 on the rear, and the 19x1.4 Prowheel racing rim on the front running a shinko SR241 2.75x19 on the front. The owner, Mike, is obviously in the process of building the bike up and went with this combo. This is the direction I that I will be going with my Bomber. Anyway I believe this will prove to be the best tire combo for hub motor ebikes around. As in my past reviews, I have ran both these tires on the rear only of my Bomber with the stock setup on the front. That worked well and to date, no other tire, including the one I am currently running, has performed as well as these two tires in both on and off road conditions. I cross posted this on the Stealth Thread as well to show folks that ebikes with MC wheels and tires can still look like a pedal bike.
Rick

What is the recommended size wheels when going with a moto cross rims? I see Korpin has 19" both front and rear. Here I take it your saying the best tire combo is 19" on the front and 17" on the rear.
Since I have no idea how this all works, I would personally want to go with 19" front and 19" rear. But do you think 19" front and 17" rear would actually be better? why?
Rix, you mentioned that you heard an ebike company is going to put out ebike specific tires. Do you think these ebike specific tires will be better then the moto cross rims and shinko tires?

Qman, the problem with rumors are they are just that, rumors. All I can say is if the rumors are/were true, the tire/s they come out with would be the ideal set up. But until I ride and evaluate how well the tire works, I have no idea if it would be better than the moto tires I have tested and ran. To your next question. As far as traction and ride quality are concerned the SR241 3.0x17 and the SR241 2.75x19 are the same. The tires feel the same to me on paved roads, dirt roads, rock, sand, mud, loose gravel, wet pavement. Both size work equally great and I wouldn't have an issue with either one as a permanent choice. The reason I think the 17 is better than the 19 is for rear tire applications only. With hub motors, the smaller the OD tire is, the more mechanical torque leverage the motor has against that. So, for that reason, I think on the rear running the 3.00x17 SR241 with an outer diameter (OD) of 23.5-23.9 inches give the rider better performance and thrust power than running a 2.75x19 SR241 which as an OD of 25-25.2 inches respectively. Either way, you can go wrong with the 17 or 19 SR241. Whether its a 17 19 combo or a 19 19 combo front and rear, you will like it much more than the MTB tires with the exception of the weight penalty increase which is about 10 pounds total for both ends.

Rick

 

[QuestionMan]

Is all that extra wheel weight a problem? Do you notice any drawbacks with the added weight?

 

[Rix]

Is all that extra wheel weight a problem? Do you notice any drawbacks with the added weight?

The only drawback is the mass being unsuspended. To off set this, I had to dial in more rebound to slow things down. Even the lightest fastest Ebikes come in around 70 pounds. With at 2.75x19 SR241 set up front and rear, a 70 pound bike would weight 78-80 pounds. I noticed a 4 pound increase in my rear wheel hub setup between the heavy duty 24TMB running the 24x3 razorback and the 3.00x17 SR241. BTW, there is only 2/3 pounds difference between the 3.00x17 SR241 and the 2.75x19SR241. But being that the weight increase is in the lower half, the CG is un-affected. In my opinion, running moto tires makes the bike handle much better, I haven't flatted one yet, they last way way longer, and I can buy them cheaper. BTW, I will soon have a 2.75x19 SR 241 on the front. Probably in November.

Rick

 

[QuestionMan]

Rix, I was thinking. The front tires on ebikes seem to wear like a normal bike. Hardly at all, and they never have issues with broken spokes, pinch flats etc.

I was wondering if it makes sense to just go with the rear moto cross rim and the front just use a 24" bicycle rim and tire? Are there any issues with doing this?

 

[Rix]

Rix, I was thinking. The front tires on ebikes seem to wear like a normal bike. Hardly at all, and they never have issues with broken spokes, pinch flats etc.

I was wondering if it makes sense to just go with the rear moto cross rim and the front just use a 24" bicycle rim and tire? Are there any issues with doing this?

That's what I am currently running right now which is the Stock Bomber set up on the front and the MC setup on the rear. I think for aesthetic reasons, A guy can either run the 17 or 19 MC rear with the 24 MTB front wheel, or run the 19MC with a 26"MTB front. I don't think the 17MC with a 26MTB would be a good idea. Start getting too much of a difference between wheel sizes and things start looking a little out of place aesthetic wise.

Rick

 

[wingsuit]

Do you guys have battery suggestions for the phasor when trying to avoid lipo? I know they can be made safe but I just don't have the experience to take a risk on them to start.

I've been looking for lipo alternatives that fit the phasor frame but still pack a punch. Ie a 72-90v (ah in the 12-18 range) that I'd put on a 40 -60 amp controller, for running a cromotor

hpc sells a 90v 13ah
and a few others sell li-nmc packs (I don't know a lot about li-nmc but I do like their weight.) pricey though

I've found a few lipo4 packs that are almost double the weight on the nmc, but could work. Just trying to not add too much weight to the bike as I already know I'll be adding some with 19mx rims up front and 17 in the rear. but maybe once you have a 90lb bike whats 10 extra pounds.

some of the trick has been trying to fit to the frame, mainly the width.

 

[Rix]

Wingsuit, I think you answered your question with the HPC 90V 13ah option. But beware, the last two guys I recommended the HPC option to have had problems with their respective packs. Not sure whats going on with that.

 

[Insider]

Do you guys have battery suggestions for the phasor when trying to avoid lipo? I know they can be made safe but I just don't have the experience to take a risk on them to start.

I've been looking for lipo alternatives that fit the phasor frame but still pack a punch. Ie a 72-90v (ah in the 12-18 range) that I'd put on a 40 -60 amp controller, for running a cromotor

hpc sells a 90v 13ah
and a few others sell li-nmc packs (I don't know a lot about li-nmc but I do like their weight.) pricey though

I've found a few lipo4 packs that are almost double the weight on the nmc, but could work. Just trying to not add too much weight to the bike as I already know I'll be adding some with 19mx rims up front and 17 in the rear. but maybe once you have a 90lb bike whats 10 extra pounds.

some of the trick has been trying to fit to the frame, mainly the width.

Hey, wingsuit!

Seems like you and me are the only who's going to ride LiFePO4-PhasorBike

If 1110 Wh is enough for you try those:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20645__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8400mAh_4S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html

That's I use for my configuration. 10 such batteries. But they are not a good choise if you need nore than 1,1-1,3Wh. Cause their shape doesn't allow you to put them 2 in 1 layer. Only one on one. Like this:


I think these may me better:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10311__Turnigy_4500mAh_6S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.html

 

[Scratch1973]

Rix
Actually I had my batteries sent back to HPC and they were tested by them and they said they checked out. I'm still waiting for the batteries to be sent back now. I now believe it may be a setting in the cycle analyst, well hoping it is anyway. If it does end up being a setting that is causing my problem I think I would recommend their batteries. I haven't had a chance to get to test the range on them but without me having a great deal of knowledge of building up a battery it is definitely a way to go but be prepared to pay , they are not cheap.

 

[pendragon8000]

hey guys im about to start planning a frame build (yeah from scratch) and im looking at different frames and thinking about how to aproch certain things. one thing is the "down tube" length. On the phasor frame i think I've just realised how massive that frame is.. looks like 60cm? considering how many lipo blocks you can stack in there.
any thoughts on that? im wondering what the "top tube" length is and is it too long like a tuck geometry? I recall Rod looking fairly comfortable on one of his.
I want to lay 3 6s 5ah lipo bricks end to end on the down tube so 50-55 cm is what im planning.
any geometry info much apriciated.

 

[QuestionMan]

Rix,

Just thought I would post in here for other people to read if they are interested.

With the pro wheel motocross rims. Is it possible to use regular 12 guage bike spokes rather than the very expensive motocross spokes? I do not see the reason to use such massive motocross spokes when 12 guage will be more than strong enough.

If that is not an option, what size diameter or "guage" spokes should I use for a prowheel rim?

 

[Rix]

Rix,
Just thought I would post in here for other people to read if they are interested.
With the pro wheel motocross rims. Is it possible to use regular 12 guage bike spokes rather than the very expensive motocross spokes? I do not see the reason to use such massive motocross spokes when 12 guage will be more than strong enough.
If that is not an option, what size diameter or "guage" spokes should I use for a prowheel rim?

Holmes Hobbies and its sister company, Volt Riders do have nipples big enough to accommodate the Prowheel Racing rims with 12 gauge, and now 13 gauge spokes. When I laced my 5403 to the 19 Prowheel Rim, I used 11gauge (3mm) spokes, my 5404 laced to the 17 Prowheel rim, I used 8 guage (3.6mm) spokes. This is bigger than I need. The 11G proved to be fine and durable and fit better since the angles weren't exact, they bent into the angle easier than the 8gauge I am currently running.

Rick

 

[korpin]

Rix,
Just thought I would post in here for other people to read if they are interested.
With the pro wheel motocross rims. Is it possible to use regular 12 guage bike spokes rather than the very expensive motocross spokes? I do not see the reason to use such massive motocross spokes when 12 guage will be more than strong enough.
If that is not an option, what size diameter or "guage" spokes should I use for a prowheel rim?

Holmes Hobbies and its sister company, Volt Riders do have nipples big enough to accommodate the Prowheel Racing rims with 12 gauge, and now 13 gauge spokes. When I laced my 5403 to the 19 Prowheel Rim, I used 11gauge (3mm) spokes, my 5404 laced to the 17 Prowheel rim, I used 8 guage (3.6mm) spokes. This is bigger than I need. The 11G proved to be fine and durable and fit better since the angles weren't exact, they bent into the angle easier than the 8gauge I am currently running.

Rick

also,specify "MOPED NIPPLES" when ordering and mention rims they will know what you need at holmes hobbies....and 12 gauge stainless are good enough if they are too thick then you will not have enough "give".....but I only have a 4065 not sure how much torque u have on your motor